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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 16 points
    It's with sad news that I'm here to say that my brand new (now scratched to hell) MSuper V3s+ is afflicted with the now infamous Gotway oscillation syndrome. I had just picked it up personally from @Jason McNeil a couple of days ago while he was out in California inspecting his latest delivery from Gotway. He's a great guy to hang with btw, and we (Jason, myself, and @Sven) had a fun little ride in some local hills. Andy, you need to post that video you made! Of course I tested mine a day ago by riding (slowly - which is key to remember) over various bumps, curbs, etc. No problems. Yeah! But this morning was my first opportunity to take it for a serious ride. I setup my camera and filmed a short mini-review introduction to my new MSuper (God I wanted to love this wheel) and then took it out on the road. As you'll see in the video below, about 3 minutes into the ride I'm on a sidewalk, probably not going faster than 15mph. I travel across a street and up on to the sidewalk, and that transition was enough to cause it to instantly oscillate and throw me off the wheel. My take away is that the wheel has to be traveling at a fairly good clip for this to happen. But as you can see, I was not exactly traveling at an extreme speed. Jason is screwed with his recent shipment, and I must say anyone who has received a unit within the last month or so is risking their skin if riding the wheel faster than 10mph. Even though I say in the video that I'm probably going to ride it, I'm not. As I rode home I couldn't make myself go faster than 10mph for fear of the oscillation. There is zero warning. There's absolutely no fun riding a wheel under those conditions. I have no clue how Gotway is going to prove any recent wheel delivery is without the problem. They clearly lied to Jason regarding his shipment, and he must be one of their best dealers. When I get a new control board (I assume), how will I know Gotway did anything. Who wants to gear up and ride 15 - 20 mph into a bump to test it? I'm sure I'll be more open to the idea after a few days, but not now. My left wrist and hand is getting worse as I type this Well guys, I only have my Monster and KS14C to ride now, and summer months are upon us. What a bummer. Enjoy the video The thumbnail is 1 second before the crash - ouch.
  2. 12 points
    I'm posting a video shortly. My wrist and shoulder is messed up. I have my oscillation crash on video - what fun I feel bad for Jason. I wouldn't recommend anyone ride a new ACM or MSuper right now. More to follow in new post...
  3. 12 points
    What was suppose to be a great Father's Day turned ugly! My neighbor was helping me launch my jet ski into our lake. Everything was going smooth after I backed the trailer down the ramp. I then let him hop in the driver's seat to pull away from the ramp as I began pushing the jet ski into the water. All of the sudden my truck started rolling backwards towards me. I jumped out of the way and ended up between the truck's rear fender and the wooden dock. Dumb move as I was trapped! My truck continued to roll backwards crushing my chest between the dock and the rear fender. Somehow the truck then stopped! I later found out the jet ski trailer had jackknifed 90 degrees and wedged inself into the lake bottom halting the truck! My poor neighbor had his own issues that I was unaware of at the time! He had climbed into the truck panic stricken after it rolled down the ramp and shut the door trying to keep the water from coming in. I later found out he had to swim through the window to escape drowning! Thank God the window was open! Both my neighbor and I are safe but my wife is pissed at me for not going to the emergency room for a chest X-ray. I suppose I should get checked out after looking at the big dent my chest put in the fender but I feel fine. The other dent in the fender is from my hand pressing against the metal attempting to get free! My truck is probably totaled after being submerged for an hour. If that is not bad enough my wife's new KS 14C, my drone and new goggles, camera equipment, iPhone, all EUC chargers.. all gone. This was a bad hit today but it could have been much worse. We are alive! The material items can always be replaced! Here is some footage I shot while I was still in shock talking about my truck.
  4. 11 points
    I have been riding my kingsong 14c for a few months and It drove me crazy how tiny the pedals are. Obviously, I am not the only person who thinks this. Used 1/4 inch think redwood planks, VHB mounting tape, gorilla glue tape and covered it all with grip tape. It ride so nicely now. Center of gravity is a little bit high, but its not bad. Ankles do not hurt and its just great. Main piece of wood is 10 inches by 4.5 inches. I also made a video showing it all:
  5. 10 points
    Just returned from LA last evening with the objective of testing out the latest ACMs+ & MSupers that arrived from GW. Received the Wheels on Tuesday, opened one up to check the serial/date of the board, it had 170502. Immediately wrote to Linnea to get some confirmation on the state of the FW, since the date evidence directly contradicted earlier statements... She assured me that the boards had been reflashed the day before they were shipped out (see the below thread).. But that wasn't sufficient for me, I padded up & took a new ACMS+ out on a pretty gruelling trial ride with @Marty Backe & @Sven. The Wheel held up well with no apparent vices. Shipped the Wheels out yesterday as was planned. Today however, Marty reported this his MSuper is afflicted by oscillation fault! Conclusion is that either a) GW have no idea what's going on, 'b) they blatantly lied to me to avoid dealing with the after-service troubles. We're going to try to get some more answers this evening, but the Wheels shipped out yesterday are going to have to be recalled. ME: Linnea, I have serious doubts of what you tell me is true. Look at the below message you sent on May 16th, these control-boards are dated 2nd of May. It is the date of the board manufacturing & NOT that when the Wheels were shipped that matters. Please confirm ASAP!!! EARLIER LINNEA STATEMENT: "We double check and found that you don't have any wheels which was shipped out within May the 1st, 2017 to May the 15th, 2017. " LINNEA: We promise that your wheels are not within that batch of problem mainboard. You know that we upgrade the firmware at that day before shipped out your wheels. Just upgrading the firmware, but not changing mainboard! So the original mainboard label is still there. ME: If what you tell me is true, I will love you forever LINNEA: You may confirm it with the shipper too, I told her that we are upgrading firmware with your wheels at that day when she push me to pick up goods.
  6. 10 points
    There's no excuse for constructing a wheel that can put out 60A or more with wires that are meant for 20A or 30A. Obvious what will happen if you have constant currents higher than that. There's no excuse for constructing a car that can go 250 km/h and use tires that burst at 80 km/h. Obvious what will happen if you constantly drive faster than that. The "oh the wheels aren't meant for that" people are missing the point. Nobody complains the wheels can't do everything. The problem is, the wheels won't tell you if they can't, they break instead and crash you. That's simply a complete design failure, especially for a single-point-of-failure device as a self balancing, one wheeled ridable. No need to excuse that.
  7. 9 points
    In another recent GW dialog, I stipulated that a minimum requirement for future order is that the BT module has the capability to pull the FW version from the board. Apparently it's not possible, because the module does not have low level function access. Compromise position is that the FW rev number will be printed on the box label. Similarly, I request that Distributors be given instructions/equipment for flashing when necessary. They're reluctant (in fact refused!) on the basis that the code could then potentially be used by rivals—in this existential crisis of credibility, this is the least of their worries right now!
  8. 9 points
    Did it throw you off or did it beep and forced you to stop? A perfect example of the board coped with the overheat situation perfectly (if it didn't throw you off) but the wires aren't up to the task at hand even with the 84V version. (no surprise there) (Oh, so that tape and plastic sleeve is Ok for 200C is it, as the silicon cables? If designing around a 200C cable then ALL components must handle 200C in that chain) My guess is that the sleeve of the motor cable is not silicon and so that has an even lower temp rating. This situation has alway been about the cable and will continue to be about cables ( the solder melted in the connectors due to heat from the cable (16awg motor cable) The bullet connectors are fine, and are much larger than 14 awg and can easily handle the current (have not sen spec so guesswork based on size). Even with the "new and future proofing 14AWG motor cable" it will fail inside the motor cable where the cables touch in these situation, they are not in "free air". Or in the connectors/solder depending on the current in the cable and sourrounding temp. Its so easy to calculate the size of that cable according to current, and heat! A rider should NEVER EVER have to care about what the wheel does, then its always "Well I think this is fine, but you say its not" situation. Account for outside temp, previous hills, omg that its just not how it should work. And the constant worry "is this the hill, must i slow down, have the wheel been in the sun". Not a comforting enjoyable ride. The wheel warns if its to hot and forces a stop, and so the cables and connectors must be designed around the maximum continous output from the control board. End of story, problem solved.
  9. 9 points
    Ridinng again in the moutains, the "14" EUCs are definitely the best for climbing when agility is needed !
  10. 9 points
    Wee J @ his school talent show, they were a bit short on space. We played a video in the back ground as he wasn't able to fit a flying trapeze or aerial silks in his school. LOL
  11. 8 points
    17-19 mph overlean on my KS14C, as I went up a steeper part of the hill. Went tumbling, scrapped up a knee and an elbow, minorly, and was up instantly. No bruises, some blood from the scrapped skin, I probably could have gotten away entirely unscathed if I just remembered to hit the ground entirely running. That should be instinctive. So there is road rash, minor road rash to be sure, but two rassberries nevertheless. Basically I think 17-19 mph crash is doable but sketchy. Lessons learned: be mindful of the slope even if you're riding not riding the 3rd of 3 beeps.
  12. 8 points
    WOW...Do I need to catch up! It sounds like you are going to splice together new motor wires. That should work! Use a 14 or 12 awg silicone wire where you spice. Given all of the wire melting issues I wished I could have finished my ACM mods with the silicone wire. GW should use the same 14 awg silicone wire coming out of the board for the motor which would then have less resistance (= less heat), a higher temperature insulation rating (200 degrees c) and 10 times the number of strands! Just look at the comparison between of 14 awg standard wire and silicone! The new 14 awg standard motor wire that GW upgraded to, in my opinion,is still suboptimal! . Given all of the melted wiring issues that have been taking place if I had the guts I would rip my new GW motor apart and replace it with the silicone wires. Unfortunately it is such a tight fit feeding all of the wires through the shaft! GW needs a larger axle! If you do splice the motor wires it might be prudent to go with the silicone. Also check closely where the wires enter the shaft. Remember that I had some rough burrs. The new GW motor wires are wrapped. Another thing to consider when replacing your wires and board is upgrading the bullet connectors to 4.5mm. The current bullet connectors are only 3.5mm. The less resistance the better! I was going to use a hefty 5.5 mm bullet connector but they were too large!. Well good luck buddy!
  13. 7 points
    I think this episode highlights the importance of the need for rival firms from outside China. The undeniable fact is that even with the top four 'best' manufacturers, with loads of experience, there's simply isn't an ingrained sense of the importance of absolute thoroughness in testing. Facts-are-facts, best to try to manage the situation responsibly.
  14. 7 points
    Unfortunatly that had not been the first time we had seen melted wires here.. @meepmeepmayer 's wheel had the exact same failure, completly melted and shorted wires and it seams for me this is a General design fault and whom to blame if not Gotway? Now after all the connector failures it seams to work out, that not the connector was the real culprit in These failure series, they were just -before the connector changes- the weakest part in the wiring harness. Now it Shows up that the 14AWG wire after the board the whole time was the real weak Point...... Marty is a very light Person, and even if he was going on an extreme hill in this Situation, the ACM -Gotway claimed that it can carry a 100kg Person and that on up to 30° hills......So at which degree and what weight are the ACM's "allowed" to fail then? A heavier rider might have had this failure on a much less steepy hill...And if 14AWG wires are 20Amp capable or 15, what does that matter if GW/ACM is pushing up to 60Amp through it? Dont get me wrong, i love my Msuper V3, it's a nice machine, but to have this failures in mind/brain on every Kind of Little steeper hill? That really sucks.....And to top up the cake with a nice cherry Gotway now send out a Batch of wheels with a "bump cutout" automatic :-)
  15. 7 points
    An update from Speedyfeet via their Facebook pages. SpeedyFeet UK 1703 1704 1705 is just batch code for the Motor itself (literally the motor from the motor factory) It doesn't relate to the Gotway build. (From Gotway "1703 1704 1705 is just batch code from motor factory. But all of them are the same."). So those broad set of numbers wont help / dont mean anything. Its the numbers AFTER those numbers that are the batch identifiers for Gotway (when it was made, who purchased etc etc).
  16. 7 points
    Jumping up 10 cm curbs is much easier than we might think. Start with a loop attached to the wheel's handle to lift the wheel by your hands when jumping. It is to take confidence and train your speed, balance and synchronisation (don't decelerate, keep a constant low speed). Then try to squeeze more the wheel between your legs when jumping until you don't need the loop anymore. It's the only tricky part because depending on the trousers, the grip might be different. The Firewheel (and probably the Ninebot too) is particularly hard to grip because it's heavy and because of less thickness at the top contrary to other wheels). On the contrary, because of the geometry of its housing, the Gotway 14" and other Ariwheel clones can always be lift up if the tops of your feet are turned insided enough, you'll never "mis-squeeze" them. I don't fear jumping 20cm with the Gotway, I'll think twice if it where the Firewheel. Once you are synchronized enough, you'll see the climb up can be ensured as much by your lifting of the wheel as the rolling inertia of the wheel itself. Even with small curbs, I try to jump more or less to reduce shocks to my wheels. As a side note, for jumping down a curb, don't decelerate either and don't do at low speed because you might get stuck with the pedals (in fact, the wheel gets stuck, while you fly).
  17. 6 points
    Do they have version control for the firmware at all? Maybe they thought they had the bug figured out and fixed, but it makes me wonder... why not just roll back to a known good version? If they can't reproduce the problem themselves, I hope they aren't just blindly trying to fix it without testing.
  18. 6 points
    I have my MSuper v3+ 1600wh for 2 days now.. Received it directly from Gotway .. In the first instance I saw that the motorcode started with 1705, so I am cautious.. But the serial is 170609.. so the build is outside the period that Gotway marks as the 'bad' period.. Thus far, fully geared up of with all kind of protective parts, I have ridden 35KM and tried everything to figure out if I can find issues.. Like taking bumps slow/fast/accelerating/decelerating, offroad, smooth asphalt.. For now I haven't seen any issues but I keep cautious and build confidence with the wheel.. It is a day and night difference in comparison with a 9B1E+... More stable, more rigid, going fast is easy, hard breaking is easy.. I love it :-)
  19. 6 points
    The batteries themselves should be charged to the same voltage as close as possible before they're connected together to minimize possible sparking. Larger voltage difference between the connectors at time of connecting may cause large currents to flow, and the (partial) connection is the highest point of resistance, dissipating most of the power (voltage difference * current flowing through), which can get into really high values, enough to heat up the metal at the connectors to melt. Another point of risk is when connecting the packs to the mainboard. If the mainboard has been sitting unpowered for longer while, the large bypassing capacitors have discharged, and will charge up when connected. They can have as little internal resistance as a few tens of milliohms. I have simulated a capacitor bank I've been building for spot-welding purposes, and it can dish out >1000A at 12V. Technically, it's not as much arcing (the voltage isn't probably high enough to arc over the air gap), but a sudden large current flow heating up the connectors. If the contact is a few hundred milliohms (just as an example), the momentary current for full 84V packs and empty capacitors can reach values of hundreds of amps, dissipating kilowatts if not tens of kilowatts at the point of contacts, which have very little mass and heat up instantaneously to very high temperatures. The sparks flying are likely tiny pieces of molten copper flying, rather than just "electric" sparks. To minimize the possible sparking: -Measure the packs, if there's voltage difference (can't say what would be "critical" difference, but probably something like a few tenths of a volt isn't that bad) charge packs to same value before connecting, easiest way is to probably charge the packs full before connection so they're all sitting at same voltage -Charge the bypass capacitors in the mainboard to same voltage as the packs before connecting. This can be done for example simply by putting a resistor (or resistors) between the connector pins of the mainboard and battery pack for a while so the capacitors charge up to full voltage with small current, something like 1K, even lower could do (even if you don't have a power resistor, the power dissipation for the resistor will momentarily be high, but it's so short-lived that it shouldn't destroy even a 0.25W basic resistor, plus resistors cost <1 cent per piece) Easiest solution is to use anti-spark / no-spark connectors that have the charging resistors built-in, the resistor will make contact before the actual connector pins do, and charge up the caps. NOTE: Do not use separate resistors or such connectors between the packs, if there's a larger voltage difference, there the current can be high for a longer while and destroy the resistor / resistor inside the connector, as they're only meant for short-lived high currents. XT90 anti-spark connectors. It's not too hard to do yourself either, although you won't get it as "clean" as those: Just make sure to connect the other side over the resistor first. Personally, I've for example put through hole-resistors on the connector pins and used those to touch the other side connectors (mind the polarity & don't short-circuit by accident! ) to charge the caps, then removed the resistors and pushed the connector in. No sparks. EDIT: Oh yeah, Rehab1 sent me his dead ACM board. Don't know for sure if it was the huge sparking when he connected the batteries that killed the board, but the MCU was dead. Maybe a high voltage strike-through from cable inductances when the large current was flowing? Apparently it's possible that the sparking can kill the entire board.
  20. 6 points
    I rode 132km(round trip) to visit the reservoir that my father participated to build some 60 years ago.
  21. 5 points
    I have waited 6 weeks for this to be delivered to me, I had high expectations thinking the build quality would be a lot better. I can not express my disappointment I expected too much or maybe I got the only bad one sent out or maybe it will get better with more kms on it I don't know. First the tyre scrapes I had my tyre at 60 psi that didn't work I tried 50 psi that didn't work now it's at 40 psi which is almost like flat. I asked my seller and he asked Inmotion and they said the recommended pressure is 30-40 psi which I say is bulshit trying to palm me off I think. It rained for like 8 minutes yesterday very light while I was riding, I couldn't turn my wheel off afterwards had to get a cloth and whip at the start button for 5 minutes before it turned off. I then had problems turning it back on, it finally worked after an hour, isn't this shitty wheel suppose to be IP55. Final problem with this wheel is I have had this wheel for five days and so far I cant get more then 25 kms out of a single charge average speed is 15-20 kph, I am only 65 kilos and even with my cloths and helmet on I am still under 70 kilos. This is done with no hills mostly very flat surfaces, is my battery bad or this is the most I can get out of the wheel, thought it had close to 40 kms? I have 6 more days to complain, I usually don't complain if it were just 1 small problem. I could probably live with the tyre scrape but it's as annoying as hell as I don't like riding on low psi. The start button worries me and the battery is just so poor it's actually worse than my ninebot one e+. Should I send back to seller? Or does this get better?
  22. 5 points
    Yeah this is horrible i still remember the big smile on your face like a kid getting his favorite toy for Christmas. Sucks for all of us. hope you recover from this accident soo. Marty
  23. 5 points
    Very funny Jason (I have a good sense of humor). Don't feel bad - you're one of the good guys. I still want Gotway to succeed because I love the MSuper. Just a bummer that summer is here and I'll be without one . I wish you the best regarding your upcoming troubles with Gotway.
  24. 5 points
    Marty, that clip is worse than any horror movie, where you know the protagonist is going to suffer something bad, sorry Buddy . Let's get this sorted out!
  25. 5 points
    Just a quickie. I am surprisingly calm at the moment but the more I think the more that insanity thing starts to kick in. I was switching the shell on my Monster and did the board side then went to do the battery side (with the batteries still disconnected from the board). Eventually I got the new shell in place (I struggled lining it up for a bit then it suddenly clicked right into place) and put the batteries in place. As I went to connect two of them I got the dreaded arc and black fingers. I can see the yellow connector is damaged/melted but I don't know if any other damage will be done. At least it wasn't connected to the board. Anyway with my fine motor skills not being what they were, or my confidence, I don't think I'm able, or willing to risk, a repair job. I've reached out to Ian to see what he advises but I may have a nice big paperweight and depending on how long my ACM lasts (the lights and bluetooth still don't work and I'm not risking a board change!) I could be back on the busses. Signing out before I go insane thinking about it
  26. 5 points
    So Guys (and maybe some lost girls?), KS18-S is a Fucking hell great machine. My biggest concern was the big shell but now I love it. Unlocked for 40 with the generator immediately after purchase - worked without problems. It feels really safe and comfortable. In comparison with the power from Msuper V3 it feels like stepping pit from a small Fiat into a Porsche. Paddles could be bigger but that everybody knows. Music is super loud - Captain Monokoleso is back on the road! I bought the biggest battery 😁 Just one concern - if I any time really want it - how to set the tilt back to 50 km/h after 1000 km? Or any possibility available to give the horse already now the full power? Or I already did with the unlock procedure?
  27. 5 points
    Unless they are out and out lying to Jason they were very confident that his wheels are not affected. Jason is buying a lot of wheels from them right now. It's not in their best interest to not be honest with him. I did take my MSuper for a short spin this morning and was riding over big bumps to test it and I didn't notice anything. The wheel seems very solid. More extensive riding is forthcoming. The fit and finish of the wheel also is very nice on mine.
  28. 5 points
    I got my msuperv3 820 wh 67 v today. After 10 minutes riding i know it is from the same batch with issues 1705 A 2 cm curb has show me how bad the wheel was shaking back and forth. And if i ride in higher speed the curb down than the wheel is shaking much more. So frustrating. In smooth road it is a great wheel. But with this fucking issues it is a shit wheel. I had 10 minutes to enyoy my NEW wheel. Shame on you gotway.
  29. 5 points
    Honestly, sounds like you should return it. Too many issues at once, right at the start. Or have at least the seller fix everything on his dime (return is probably easier and safer for you). EUCs usually run fine for very long if they are running fine once, but you need to reach that "once" and it might not happen with this wheel, or at the very least getting to that point should not be your concern, but the seller's.
  30. 5 points
    With LiIon Batteries that's not an explanation - they wont "recover" from about half of their capacity after some charging cycles (from what i've read at http://batteryuniversity.com/ there is no such thing with li ions at all) Seems like a faulty battery pack, but could be a miscalibrated charger, too... Best to return, since you have 6 more days for a complaint - especially in combination with the not being IPS55 and the tire scraping... ps.: from https://www.nemaenclosures.com/enclosure-ratings/ip-enclosures/ip55-enclosures.html IP 55 Enclosure Characteristics: Protection from water, up to water projected by a nozzle against enclosure from any direction
  31. 5 points
    Send it to your reseller and take your money back. The rain problem happened in my v5f too, only one time in 6 mounts. That's acceptable because the wheel back to work itself. The scratching tire is a no way problem, you must adapt the pressure for different activities and routes. The range problem look like a issue, the v5f takes my 60 kg 30km far with only 85% depleted if I ride softly. That's is possible with charging to the green light in the adapter instead the 100% in the app (there is one more full indicator when the blue light stop blinking) that's isn't good for battery life but it reaches that fantastic range of >30Km. But your v8 must do >40km without tricks. Maybe your batteries need do a couple of full cicles to reach his maximum capacity or maybe you ride style demand too much due lot of star, stop, accelerations and miss balances corrections but that's explain it only if you ride like dancing pogo
  32. 5 points
    Thanks I'm getting replacement parts from Ian (Speedyfeet), where I bought the wheel. The ACM is probably out of commission for the next month or so On the bright side, I just picked up my brand new MSuper V3s+ (1600wh) from Jason (EWheels). So good times are ahead. And I still have my Monster as a backup. I like to have at least three solid wheels - a main wheel and a backup and a backup to the backup
  33. 5 points
    Nice, I "lighten" the wheel when going over curbs, taking the impact by bending my knees, not really hopping up. It seems to work well, never fallen going over a curb, but it doesn't always work "perfectly", as in, if timed wrong, the bump will move my feet a bit on the pedals, and is not as graceful. As for falls, I've had 6 falls in total in something like maybe around 3000+km total with 4 6 (forgot I rode a friends' KS16B last summer and had Vee's / EUC Extremes MCM2s on loan) different wheels, but no real damage to myself (so far, let's hope it stays that way ) thanks to the gear. My first and worst one was the very first day I got my 14" generic, I had learned to mount it that day (hopping on and off the wheel for about 20-30 mins, the street I live in hasn't got anything near the road to hold onto, so I had to learn without any support) and could ride forwards and turn in wiiiiide circles, usually I just rode to the end of the street, stepped off, turned the wheel around by hand and rode back to the other end . At one point, I mounted, accelerated and probably just lost my balance, pushing the pedals backwards, causing the wheel to brake and fell down on the pavement. I've been wearing full gear all the time since the first time I ever stepped on an EUC (well, to be precise, I didn't get the wrist guards until a bit later after starting), so no harm there. Second fall was on my 3rd day, coming down from a speed bump, I guess I went too fast and the wheel just toppled forwards. I took a few fast running steps, hit my shoe on the curb (my toe was aching a few days afterwards, otherwise ok) and rolled onto a lawn, I also videoed it and I smashed the camera Later on that same wheel (maybe a week or two), I tried running it as fast as it can up an off-road hill (at that point, I was pretty much constantly riding at the tilt-back as fast as I can, which probably was around 15-18km/h or so). Of course the wheel gave up on a bump, and I took a few running steps before landing on my hands, the kneepads and skid plates of the wrist guards taking the damage (scratches). On the Firewheel, I once fell from a low(ish) speed going over badly ground frost damaged pavement. Again the protections cushioned the blow, only damage I had was a bit of skin lost from my pinky The last fall on the Firewheel was when BMSs of the custom packs cut power on downhill (overcharge... the BMSs were the wrong type), I don't know if it actually counts as a fall, as the wheel just shot off under me and I landed on my feet taking a few running steps and coming to a stop. The Firewheel shell got badly damaged, I got most of it repaired, but it never was really waterproof after that. My last fall was sometime last week (I think), nothing dramatic. We went to a really curvy and stony path with a friend, maybe about 20-30cm wide in the middle of the woods, something you wouldn't probably even try with a bicycle and I was riding the KS16S. My pedal got caught in some stones at near walking speed and as I stepped off, I slipped and fell to my back, but had a backpack with my jacket in it, so it cushioned the blow, and I just got back up and continued riding. No damage to the wheel.
  34. 4 points
    @Marty Backe Oh boy, that hurts! I'm really sorry for how the GotWay Gods are treating you lately! Hope your wrist will heal soon! (...diligently digging through my drawers in search of my wrist guards...). Building upon other's assumptions regarding the (non existing) use of version control systems for the firmware development and my personal knowledge and trust in @Linnea Lin Gotway, I got my own theory, of how this could happen: when the trouble reports startet pouring in after the May 1 FW update, the GW boss called the FW developer to "fix it". I am ready to bet a case of fine Bavarian beer, the FW sources "live" on the C: drive of that developers laptop and the Release Notes (if any) say little more than "changed something". So, the poor guy has no idea, which of the files on his drive actually contains the last stable release. Consequently, he starts fooling around with the troubled release, tries to revert his changes or fix what he assumes might be broken. At the end of his work (or his nerves - whatever came first) he presents the result to GotWay with a desperate "it's fixed!". The now following "test" for some reason did not uncover, that the problem still exists (for example, because the FW changes to correct it just moved it up to a higher speed range). GW flashes the boards with the "repaired" FW and resumes shipping... While this explanation sounds somewhat "harmless" and like an excuse for GotWay, It's not meant to be - I am just not willing to believe, that Linnea outright and knowingly lied to poor @Jason McNeil. I am convinced, that issues like this will persist as long as quality management is left to goodwill and luck instead of a systematic methodology. The software industry has developed release management processes ages ago and even some back room distributors have startet setting up test beds for EUCs - just none of that ever occurred to GotWay. And I don't even know, whether the FW is developed by a GotWay employee or some freelancer with a laptop. Even though none of my GW wheels has harmed me so far, I know now, that this was a good portion of plain luck. While I am not ready to disown GotWay just yet, I will not buy or recommend an EUC from them until they demonstrate an honest effort to improve QM.
  35. 4 points
    dude wow.. I'm glad your ok... I feel like taking my review of this down..... This is not cool at all.....I'm literarily telling people to go buy this nonsense... I still ride mine everyday.. I don't have problems.. The terrain you ride on is a dream.. You should see the roads I have to deal with yet this happens.... Thank you for alerting everyone...
  36. 4 points
    @Marty BackeI'm so sorry for the fall Marty. I appreciate you documenting this for the rest of us. I hope you mend quickly. @Jason McNeil Jason, I have the utmost respect for you as a distributor and Im sorry you have to deal with this headache. I hope it all gets resolved quickly. Matt
  37. 4 points
    @Marty Backe Ouch! the Gotway Gods have seamed to leave you for a longer time! It ridiculous...i saw the conversation @Jason McNeil posted, that they put new firmware on every wheel they have sent to him! It's the question if the gave a fu.... for one of the best sellers and his customers...and just lied! or if just NOBODY in this complete company has any clue of what the other one is doing...or what they are doing at all! Sorry, i have a beloved V3 (oktober 2016).....but at THIS TIME i would advise everybody to stay away from Gotway completly! As @Marcos75 aka Markus posted , 67 Volt Versions are having this problem also....so who knows which of their since end of April produced wheel has it not? @Linnea Lin Gotway @Jane Mo Your company is ruining itself with its horrible Qualitymanagement!
  38. 4 points
    We can get deep in the brushless motor theory in this thread if we want, but it really isn't necessary to understand how current must vary as a function of input voltage. Power out = Power In * efficiency. That's all you really need to know. The motors in our wheels are not resistors. They look inductive, and there are also capacitors in the power train. So, over very short periods of time, the principle that Power out = Power In * efficiency doesn't really hold. But, over longer periods of time (consistent with thermal time constants), that relationship must hold. It's a very basic conservation of energy theory. It really doesn't matter what system you are considering. A DC/DC convertor, a motor, a house, that relationship will always hold true. So, if a EUC is under a fixed load, like steadily going up a hill at a constant speed, its output power is constant. It will be the Input Power * efficiency. How much power it's putting out will be based on what speed is set by the ESC. The ESC will by turning currents on and off very quickly and the instantaneous currents that result in FETs, wires, and connectors is important. But, the average currents in these elements are what's important from a thermal analysis. Assuming the efficiency (Power Out - Power In) is constant regardless of the input voltage. The input power must be constant. Input power is Input Voltage * Input Current. So, if the input voltage is lower, the average input current must be higher. The efficiency is NOT totally constant as a function of input voltage. However, the efficiency change as a function of input voltage is small relative to the battery voltage impact on the input current. These fundamental principles are used of power and thermal analysis of virtually all power electronic systems. Let's debate this, before things get confused with the additional details on how the ESC controls motor speed and what that means for associate FET and motor winding currents. Probably, the failure to differentiate between current when devices are on, versus their time average current is the source of much of the misunderstanding about what happens when battery voltage gets lower and it might help to dig into those details. But, unless you want to argue for a perpetual motion machine, Power Out = Power In * Efficiency.
  39. 4 points
    I was trying to say this before all these accidents happened but people thought i was just trashing gotway wich is not the case. I make more money from gotway sales so that would be foolish. I just want people to be safe. This would have been avoided if people were to listen. In answer to your thoughts about kingsong, they really do put alot of effort into being the safest even to the point they refused to remove the feature that reduces top speed as voltage drops even tho i pleaded to them that its suicide to limit the wheels in such a way when those that are skilled riders can safely ride without crashing without this feature. We were told the Engineers wont remove it because its there for the safety of the rider. I hear inmotion are great but i dont know much about them and have never even rode one but from all the wheels and brands i am experienced with kingsong excell in safety and quality
  40. 4 points
    The first incident was me trying something I shouldn't way too soon. I am more used to the handling of the Monster now and have rode over a couple of areas I can't with my ACM and couldn't when I was a numpty and ended up dropping my Monster lol I won't be using it for anything more than my usual rides out with my girls and possibly for work now and again. It can do more than my ACM for sure but I won't push it too far off-roading due to it's weight. UPS are picking up my Monster tomorrow and taking it down to Ian to look at for me. Hopefully it's just the connectors and not a duff batter/BMS too. If I have to open it ever for a tyre change I think I'll be replacing the XT-60's with XT-90's as per Rehab1's response on my post. I can't wait to get it back and get out showing off the new shell lol
  41. 4 points
    Hopefully it's just a short term feeling and you'll soon be back riding and the ride will take your cares away. You need to take the positive from this in that something serious happened and you survived! The things damaged can be replaced but you can't. Obviously it wasn't your time and now you should look on life with fresh eyes and make the most of it.
  42. 4 points
    "How to Run off a Wheel Cut Out" - taken 1 hour ago...
  43. 4 points
    Not all makers. I can inflate my IPS and Gotway wheels to whatever pressure I want, and there is PLENTY of room. THAT'S HOW IT SHOULD BE! Why do Inmotion and Rockwheel think they can't give the customer one more 1/16 inch? Why do they think it's so undesirable to provide a decent amount of space for the tire? It can have 1/16 inch more room and still the wheel looks cool.
  44. 4 points
    Hey @Rehab1, nice to see you again No, I'm not planning on splicing new wires to the motor. I'm not crazy like some people around here I'm still waiting to hear from Ian. I know that I need a control board, but I may be getting a new motor too since I see evidence of melting/softening insulation on the wires closer to the axle. If I get a motor/control board combo I'll just go with the defaults. If I only get the control board and decide not to pursue a new motor then I'm going to solder the wires together and bypass the connectors altogether.
  45. 4 points
    Wires have a rated ampacity for a given temperature rise. Here's an example: https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm There are additional tables for bundles of wires together. Also, different wire insulations have can widely varying allowable wire temperatures--if you know the specific wire used, you can determine how much current the wire can handle without compromising the insulation. The insulation will likely melt or be destroyed before the wire acts like a fuse. The copper in the wire is a really good conductoer of heat (far better than the thermal path through the insulation), so much of the heat will be conducted to whatever the wire terminates on. Typically a heat sink on the control board. The motor windings might get a lot of airflow--I have no clue about that. But, if they do, that convection would be excellent for dissipating much of the heat. I'm not looked at the motor in EUC, so I don't know any real details, just general principles.
  46. 4 points
    So today i got mine V8 and rode first 24km with it from full charge, often pushing 30km/h speed and rode over 4 small hills. It has 31% battery left, so it would go for ~32km total. As I weight 100kg this range was expected. Your battery must be faulty. I can totaly understand the tire scraping as after inflating to 3,8 bar, there is only 1mm space between tire and case and there might be close to none at another unit. I didn't encounter any problems personaly, maybe once I heard some leaf scraping and I expect it will get better as tire will worn out. No rain today, so no input for third problem. My advice, return it or ask for replacement.
  47. 4 points
    The tire should list the PSI range on it's side. Gotway tires max at 45 psi, yet some of KingSong's go to 65. It depends on the tire. If the tire still scrapes if you are within the values listed on the side of the tire maybe you should return it. The rain seems like a problem, and your range is certainly too low. The V8 has a very good reputation, so maybe you were just unlucky
  48. 4 points
    I find it easy to picture other people doing it, but hard to picture myself doing it. Trails are actually the main place I bought an EUC for ... but not dangerous ones. I'm also thinking of going with one of my dogs, so i have to be extra careful. I wouldn't want to knock him off a cliff or just panic or hurt him. I'm no daredevil either. In fact I'm pretty nervous around heights. I think you also have to ask yourself how disposable you feel your wheel is. If you crash or just make some ridiculous error in judgment and your wheel flies off a cliff or into an inaccessible gully ... are you okay with just swallowing the loss?
  49. 4 points
    My legs are like jello! For the last three weeks I've been commuting ~16 miles/~25km five days a week, doing another 8 miles a day in the weekends. I think I took it a bit too far yesterday when I climbed a hill and had to lift the GT16 the last 150 meters up, then down over rocks and mud. Let me say it gets really heavy really fast. Afterwards my legs were shaking from exhaustion for the last run homewards. It was almost a bit scary, but not bad enough that I felt out of control. I tend to ride as if I ride downhill on skis, bent legs and hunched a bit forward. At 30 kmh anything else means bumps in the road will kill my knees and mean a serious risk of face-planting. My muscles haven't really caught up with my new demands yet, but on the positive side is that I have lost 4-5 pounds in the last month. Who said this was effortless?
  50. 4 points
    I think you might well still be in shock. It is not at all unusual to go into a form of shock-depression, and it can feel like you're okay when in reality you're not. Well I don't know you well enough to say it is so, but just give it time - if the urge to ride comes back, all is well and good, if not, that's okay too. Take care, that's what's important.