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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/13/2017 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    Look what the mailman brought us today. A brand new KS14S from KingSong, where the S stands for Sport. This is the latest Electric Unicycle from KingSong and I’m pretty excited as one of the first to review this unit. Let me know what you think about KS14S?
  2. 15 points
    ^_____________________________________^ it was fun. as always. sorry forgot to tag members ... lol @Marty Backe @Jason McNeil @noisycarlos @Ando Melkonyan @jrkline @Sven @enigma35 @Stan Onymous
  3. 11 points
    I'm making my first post here, but I have been reading this forum for 2 or 3 months now. I discovered electric unicycles after I discovered (and purchased) a hoverboard. I had a 10 inch one, good high end, and I used it to commute around my city, as well as for stress relief and fun. It had a 12 mile range, and a top comfortable cruising speed of 8 to 9 mph once I got good with it. One time, I tried to push it to the max while using GPS to clock my speed, and I managed 12 mph before I lost control and had to step off, which resulted in me running the fastest I have ever run to avoid face planting. I did not do that again. Not a month later, it snapped in half while I was trying to learn to ride it off curbs. When I started looking to replace it, I discovered EUCs. They make more sense in a lot of ways, so I started started doing research. This led me to want to purchase one, but for a while, I had to spend my money in other directions (new computer, new car, house repairs) first and then save up. When I found myself with enough money I purchased a GotWay MSuper V3s+. The three I was choosing from were the KS18s, MSuper V3s+ and Monster. Monster seemed a bit much... and Jason @ eWheels advised me that I "probably wanted the MSuper" when I asked which he would recommend. Fortunately the firmware has been fixed during the various delays since I was able to pay him (bank spent a week thinking about my CC purchase before releasing the funds, then Jason apparently had inventory delays). I just got a notice that the shipping label has been created, so I figured... it's time to sign up and say hello. Hello! I know buying an MSuper V3s+ may not have been something that many of you would probably have advised for someone who has never ridden an EUC before, but the way I tend to approach things is... research what fits your needs and will last and genuinely make you happy. Then buy it... then meet whatever challenge learning how to use it presents, and master it. I have come to the conclusion through experience in my life that I can do anything, as long as I set my mind to it and persevere. This will be an enjoyable challenge, just as was learning to ride the hoverboard. The rewards will be long term, since EUCs have a future and are going to doubtless grow in popularity and commonality. Knowing me, I will also eventually have to have a KS18s (or better) and a Monster (or better). As far as I know, I will probably be the only person in my city with one of these devices for quite some time. Some day (hopefully soon) I will be good enough to join some of the closer of you for group rides. And to all of you who have been so kind and generous with your time and wisdom to post videos, I have watched them, and appreciated and enjoyed them. Thank you for the information, entertainment and the pleasure of coming to know you a little better. Perhaps my chance to post videos will come some day. So any advice for going from 0 to MsuperV3s+? By the way, here's an interesting thing... shipping label created on the 10th, in Cali. Supposed to arrive by FedEx Ground on the 11th in Florida. Ummm.... does this mean they have trucks doing 126 mph for 23.97 hours a day? Or is this being shipped by air? Hmmmmm. Okay, I'll stop talking now.
  4. 10 points
    I thought some of you guys would appreciate how effective Slime is at fixing a tire. My tire in this case @who_the and @Kevin Grandon - this is what ruined the ride. Hope you guys got some riding done at Venice Beach.
  5. 9 points
  6. 8 points
    Just thought I would make a little update on my EUC adventure. Today was my first commuting experience. It's about 6 miles from where I live to where I work as the EUC flies. The ride was great! I might have overdone the protective gear a bit. I probably looked like Robocop, but I didn't want to take any chances on the first run. The only problem I had was clearing security at the front gate. I was riding on the sidewalk at that point, so I slowed to walking pace and flashed my badge at the security dudes. Just like I do when I'm walking. They weren't having any of that and made me back up and go through the vehicular checkpoint. Oh well, now I know. I was a little worried about getting into the building because you have to navigate these revolving security doors. (No, I don't work at a black site, but security is pretty tight here.) Fortunately, the wheel didn't trigger any alarms; it probably looks like one of those rolling briefcases to the sensors. Wheel is resting nicely in the corner of my office, waiting for the ride home.
  7. 8 points
    Happy 4th! A little neighborhood parade. WARNING! Video is super bouncy because my ride is taken and I have to walk and jog while taking video.
  8. 7 points
    Folks! it is here....just arrived half an hour ago! WHAT A MONSTER .....more will follow.......
  9. 7 points
    Hallo zusammen, ich bin seit einem knappen Jahr jetzt hier anonymer Mitleser und dachte mir, dass es langsam Zeit wird einmal Hallo zu sagen. Ich komme aus Hannover und mache seit August 2016 die Gegend unsicher, angefangen mit einem Ninebot One E+, bin ich jetzt bei einem Kingsong KS16 gelandet. Wir sind hier in Hannover auch ein kleineres Grüppchen welches sich ab und zu zum Fahren trifft. Eventuell ist der ein oder andere hier auch im Forum aktiv. Ich habe auch schon vieles zur "Legalisierung" unternommen, habe Kontakte beim Nds. Verkehrsministerium und auch beim TÜV gewinnen können. Zuletzt durfte ich an einer kleinen Anfrage an die Bundesregierung mitwirken, von der wahrscheinlich hier kaum jemand etwas mitbekommen hat, jedenfalls wurde es hier noch nicht gepostet: http://dip21.bundestag.de/dip21/btd/18/128/1812897.pdf Bis Ende diesen Monats muss die Antwort der Bundesregierung vorliegen und mit dieser Antwort wollen die Abgeordneten der Grünen dann Pressearbeit machen. Also dann auch weiterhin eine unfallfreie Fahrt und vielleicht sieht man sich ja mal auf der Straße, mindestens bei der Skate-by-night Hannover, denn da ist immer einer von uns vertreten ;-) Beste Grüße Patrick
  10. 6 points
  11. 6 points
    Sorry for the delay, I had to drag myself away to get to LAX, downgrade my photos, and then find some WiFi to upload them. This first one is just to show why we should have cheerleaders at every event... And this one is especially for everyone on the ride last Saturday... P.S... They are so much better in real life - a little jiggle makes such a difference!
  12. 6 points
    That was a busy three days... I originally thought that I wouldn't make it (the friend who I was building the pedal for had a gig in this town last night), but on late Tuesday/Wednesday -night, I picked up the old ShredMaster -plans I made late last year and quickly whipped up corrections (Replaced the non-working tone-control, added inverting amplifier on output as originally the volume was too low, improved distortion drive). I have lost the simulations of the circuits (actually, I think they're buried somewhere, I changed computers in between and probably tucked the "old stuff" to some obscure corner of the hard drive and couldn't find them right then and there), so I had to piece it together from the other prototype-distortion board I made before and some quick back-of-the-hand calculations. With about two and a half days to go (had to be done by Friday evening), I was pushing it close... I don't have recordings of the pedal, and I don't have the pedal either anymore (handed it over last night). I finished the damn thing around 7PM last night (Friday), a good hour before we had to leave for the gig. There were a couple of things I wasn't really happy about in it (the distortion overdrives too much if the pot is turned all the way, which might be down to using TL074 instead of LM324, and the softness-setting isn't that good with LEDs, probably should have gone with silicon-diodes, there's an unnecessary 2.5V bias before the delay-section etc.). I put down some markings on the schematic after-the-fact (today), so I know to fix those if I ever make another one. The delay-section is actually from http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/smalltime.html The actual op-amp used was TL074, not LM324 like the schematic says (same pinout in both), didn't have time to try out different op-amps and how they affect the sound. LM324 might have been better, as it can go down to ground-level on the output (but isn't "real" R-to-R either), leaving more headroom on the distortion-section, and it then might not clip "too much" if driven all the way (on the actual pedal, the sound becomes somewhat choppy if the distortion is dialed close or all the way to full). Board layout. I had to move stuff around to fit some of the changes, but most of it comes from the original board last fall, otherwise I would have never made it in time (the original layout took probably 10-12 hours to make, the changes were done in about 3 hours). Also, as that one was one of the first SMD-boards I'd made, I had placed everything in the back-copper, so the board had to be mirrored in FlatCAM for milling, and I had to be really careful checking which SMD-component goes where, as it's a mirror image... In all the newer SMD-boards I've made, I've learned to draw the layout on the front-copper 3D-view of board in Kicad. Due to version discrepancies (the original layout was done in older KiCad), not all components are rendered. Making g-code toolpaths in FlatCAM Actual board after milling. Note the three holes nearer to the bottom left corner in wrong places... I made some slight changes in the board after making the first toolpaths, then just redid the isolation-toolpath, failing to notice I had moved one connector. Luckily, the raster was still correct (2.54mm / 0.1"), so I could just use hand-control to drill that missing hole, and the extra one didn't matter. After the board was done, it was already wee hours of Thursday-morning. Later on Thursday, I tried lots of different valued pots (I did have rough ideas of what to use, but still had to try things) and played around with it, also removed a resistor from the bottom (marked in the schematic), as it was causing just trouble. Luckily it didn't require more modifications. The original board cutout is designed for a small cast-aluminum encasing, but I quickly realized there's no way I'm going to stuff 7 potentiometers + stomp-switch on the face of that, so I had to use a larger encasing: Holes drilled for the pots & stomp-switch on the top, input- and output-jacks are in the sides and the DC-power jack is in the back (not seen in the picture). I was planning on painting the casing and using something like stencils to make the texts in different color, but I was running out of time, so I opted just to engrave the texts: "S/N: 001"... Like I'm ever going to make a second one Board attached on the bottom with nylon-screws and nuts. I had to put a couple of silicone pads on top of each other in the bottom so they won't hit the floor. Final values for pots marked down on a piece of paper, waiting to be soldered to the final wirings. Jacks, stomp-switch & pots in place and wired, this is already on Friday-evening. The whole thing finally screwed shut and guitar jacks + DC-jack labeled. I had maybe about 10-15 minutes to try it before having to start making food & getting ready to leave... At least it still worked at that point (minus the few flaws I mentioned before, like choppy sound if distortion drive is turned out near or to maximum), hopefully it still works when the new owner gets to try it out
  13. 6 points
    Nope, you sure didn't, and it was nothing to do with us moderators. He suddenly hide both of the threads he started (Moderators can still see the posts but nobody else can). My guess is he is very new with the company, was speaking out of turn and got his knuckles rapped. I have put his account on moderation so that we get alerted if he posts again and I've asked him for an explanation - no response yet. i think all of us would be extremely happy to have Inmotion reps take an active part in this forum.
  14. 6 points
    If someone for some reason needs a new Bluetooth-module, it can be found in Aliexpress under name "SH-HC-08", this seems to be the exact same board (note that the EN- and STATE-pins are left unconnected on the ACM-board and it uses straight pins instead of angled, though), down to the date-code on the actual BT-board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SH-HC-08-Bluetooth-4-0-module-with-backplane-serial-transparent-transmission-module-cc2541-bluetooth-BLE/32497038959.html There are other sellers with boards using the same CC2541-module for about half or less of the price of the above linked one, but with slightly different components on the breakboard, those might work (the pinout seems to be the same), but I don't know for sure. Also that same board is available with the button next to EN-pin left out (like in the original, and in the board linked above) or soldered in. Don't know if that affects either (probably for pairing?).
  15. 6 points
    Yep, that is why it is dangerous to compare a cutout to any other kind of failure. I have run off all the other problems where I hit a bump or catch the pedal on a wall or curb, but when the wheel just loses power and dips forward because you hit max speed it happens too fast to do anything. If you notice, I hit a sidewalk bump just before the crash and I think that pushed the wheel over the limit. Since then I have ridden the Firewheel on a nice flat smooth trail at 16mph constant speed, but I don't think I would ever ride it fast on uneven terrain like that again. And yes, I was not only going at high speed but at high stupid as well. Notice my "protective gear" consisting of a helmet, shorts, and t-shirt. I should have taken pictures of the road rash, it was pretty serious and took a couple of months to heal.
  16. 5 points
    @Jason McNeil is sending out my new ACM board today with the updated firmware. I found out the new board does not have the bluetooth module so I needed to remove my BT module from the existing board before returning it. There is an abundance of silicone surrounding this little circuit board which needs to be carefully cut. I precut the silicone before shooting the video so you would not hear all of my swear words. Once the silicone is sliced all around the module you need to Carefully wiggle the module back and forth until the pins on the module dislodge from the mainboard socket. I hope the video helps to better understand the process.
  17. 5 points
    Wrote that in the separate topic, but it was declined by Eric @ IMSCV. None projects with this name exist, and I could hardly imagine a company in the middle of transferring their EUC division to Americas to spit out a new model just like that. I am pretty certain Jason is a new up and coming rep (not a fake account), but the 'news' he released were not legit and not connected. I imagine the topic was deleted by himself after I shared the link with Eric Technically true if it was indeed my whistleblowing that caused the distress
  18. 5 points
    So I watched this video. Unusually there's no riding in it. Odder still is the perspective; I strongly suspect the guy on our right is some engineer, and might be a big fan of the book, "The design of everyday things" as he talks a lot about various hardware to human interactions. It's a very interesting video, it's a different perspective. A few notes: --Why the two-wheeled V3 might as well as be classified as "something not an EUC" but why you might still buy it. --Why the Ninebot's top speed actually makes sense.
  19. 5 points
    My review isn't going to be a fair one since I haven't tried any of the other modern wheels. I think it was a very precise comparison by someone, that Lhotz is 10% of the KS-16S's 100%. One third more money gets you ten times the wheel. Lhotz is a mid 80's Corolla, KS-16S is a new Tesla. KS-16S tire at 4.0 bars is hugely more comfortable on bumps and cracks than Lhotz at 2.7. KS's Kenda does have a center ridge that is a bit higher, so on curves there is this slight 'oops' section where the KS seems to fall slightly on it's side. Once it wears down a bit I'm sure the cornering will get smoother. And coming from an old 2.5 inch tire there was bound to be a difference. When riding the KS I feel like I was standing on train tracks. It is so incredibly stable and smooth. I didn't think it was anywhere near possible to feel the road this differently. Going uphill it feels like I was in an elevator. It just goes up. On Lhotz I had to be careful and do these little hops even for small bumps. The same bumps disappear on the KS, and I go up in an elevator while standing on railroad tracks. The difference is so stumpious that I'm afraid if I will start to make foolish decisions on the KS. Like going up too high curbs, or trusting the KS to handle curbs I should also take part in conquering. The whining noise is bad though. I know I'm quite sensitive to such sounds, but still, at this level of a masterpiece it is an issue. I will surely see if anything can be done about it. I will definitely write a proper review once I get more mileage.
  20. 5 points
    I received my new KingSong KS-16S 840Wh yesterday. Bumpered her up and rode for about 15km. Oh dear lord.
  21. 5 points
    It looks like IPS i5, i5+ lacks water proofing. Has no at all. Stator looks attached to shell, so we have no parts which would cover inner space of the motor. It's exposed to water and you'll have big risk of ending up with short circuit after getting into rain. Fix me if I wrong, please.
  22. 5 points
    I don't know about you guys, but the only way I've been able to feel safe is to shoot everyone who crosses my path. Just in case.
  23. 5 points
    I know those Feelings...but now, as i have with the V3 a wheel that can go 40kmh without Problems over nearly it's complete Batterie range...i have to say that driving over 32-33 does NOT feel comfortable anymore! It is -at least for me- so fricking fast that my mind does not feel good any more! That wheel goes good, no wobbling or whatsoever, but it is not as nice as grooving with 27kmh! It is to fast for safely Slalom and...hard to describe...perhaps that is also because i know how a 30kmh Crash feels...pure smashing onto the ground! But i can honestly say...for me the Speed addiction is now over! 32-33 is the last comfortable max and thats it!
  24. 4 points
    So I've been quite interested in seeing one of these in real life, seems pretty intuitive. 20 Mike range with 20MPH top speed. 1 hour charge? Follow mode the whole nine yards. Solid tire as well, no flats. Here is a link to the video The specs seem great and the design pretty interesting. Not sure how well the foot beds will hold up on long rides. But the 20mph and 20 mile range with the fact that is also has suspension, able to hope on off of curbs, and the follow me feature. UL certified.
  25. 4 points
    Hello for everybody This is a especial day, i am ordering may Kingsong 18S 1500w/1680wh, from Rockwheel Store in Aliexpress. I am very happy and hope that everything goes well.
  26. 4 points
    My wife's KS 16S arrives Monday. It will be fun to compare her wheel with my ACM 1600 now that it is back together again.
  27. 4 points
    filmed this a while ago when J first got his KS and took it for a ride round the skate park
  28. 4 points
    In hopes to bring this back to the original post's intent @Catlord17 here are a few additional things to consider that you may find useful when learning: 1) Pump up the tire to a reasonable pressure, but not too much at first. Depends on your weight, of course, but a softer tire may be easier to ride at first. Make sure that the tire is not too squishy, but I'd encourage you at first to be closer to the minimum PSI than the maximum. As you get better, increase the pressure and you'll get better mileage... 2) If you're calves hurt, try stuffing socks in your socks to add padding or a cheap pair of soccer shin guards could help too 3) If your feet hurt, try a thicker soled shoe like tennis, basketball, or skateboarding shoes. The soles of running shoes tend to be a little too flexible and seem to hurt (my) feet a little more 4) Try to get your body upright and relaxed, once you get on the wheel. Most new riders fall quickly because they are already hunched over and everything is tense in their legs and they are trying to over-correct for every feeling of imbalance. At some point you will correct the balance with the wheel not your body, so for example, if you feel your body falling forward you will increase the speed of the wheel putting your center of gravity back over the wheel, rather than trying to lean back to fix it. Anyway, my goal here was to try and get the thread back on track for @Catlord17 rather than comparing the V8 and KS-16S (which for the record is still a great topic )...
  29. 4 points
  30. 4 points
    Sorry Marty but it did not work as planned. I tried!
  31. 4 points
    I estimate that 15A current for the pack(30A total battery, and thus 1800W of power for 60V) will do the harm like that. I checked mine which show no apparent sign of burn from outside. However when I open the shrink wrap, and tear open the fish paper, it looks not good: I've already wiped out the black-colored ash on the center part which must be the carbonized paper or oil that only happened when the temperature reached above 250 degree C for sometimes. The max. current(for a period) I recon may be 12A for the pack(24A for the EUC), but that is enough to produce 0.45W of power at the center of the strip that estimated to have 3.1 mOhm resistance. The strip is 8mm * 0.1mm which only equivalent to 0.1mm^2 copper(if it is nickel plated steel). Also, the current drawn from the battery consist of high peak spikes, which makes the heat generated much more than calculated from pure DC.
  32. 4 points
    Melted abs with solvent or heat is the only solution. You can look up howbtheyvrepair cracked outomobile bumpers. They use a special hot iron and melt additional material with the iron into the crack. Also for high stress cracked areas they melt a special shape metal staple and add melted plastic with iron.
  33. 4 points
    Yeah it is kinda nuts. I read the forums for a month before ordering. Then ordered my MSuper in May. Then Jason said the shipment was delayed back in China, so we had to wait a few weeks. Then the shipment was on its way and we were assured we weren't getting the tainted batch from Gotway. When the wheels finally came in Jason shipped me my wheel. Then Jason found out we DID get a tainted batch. I was instructed to not accept the wheel and return it. On the day of delivery, it was rerouted internally by a cancellation from Jason and I never saw it. Then I waited again while Jason patched the wheels and sent mine out. Finally I got it a couple off days ago. I did order a Step N Go cheapie wheel to practice on in the meantime, got a ton of protective gear, got slime and a pump and such, and used that every day for a couple of weeks. However, for the past two weeks I've been working like crazy literally day and all night six nights a week AND been sick with a bad flu. So I just stayed off the wheel . Way too sick and exhausted. And then the first day I feel up to getting on the wheel again, I turn my ankle walking down a slippery gulley. Frankly I think it might have been because my attention span wasn't so great coming off being sick. I probably shouldn't have been trying anything more demanding than watching TV. I'm pretty sure the Gods are trying to tell me something. Over and over again. But they haven't seen the last of me on a wheel. I'll get there. The delay is frustrating but I'm not a quitter.
  34. 4 points
  35. 4 points
  36. 4 points
    The Russians deleted him! My initial gut instinct was the story did not add up. The new name 'Inmotion D1' certainly came into question. What the hell is a D1? We as members get so excited when a company rep joins the forum we overlook the fact that the person may be an impostor. This may not be the case but unfortunately there is no easy way to vet new members and examine their credentials. Now that I think of it @Hunka Hunka Burning Love has countless investigative resources at his disposal.
  37. 4 points
    It's not about not "allowing it" - it's more about lack of resources to develop the updateable FW or even at least half decent mobile apps ... Most of the current EUC manufacturers including GW are ran more like Mom's & Pop's shops than real company with all departments fully staffed with qualified personnel. You can see the "assembly lines" are just a few shelf in some crappy old warehouse, minimum or none QA, only basic own development, using cheap sub-par parts originally intended for another purpose and so on If GW can't get something simple like the cover screws right I'd not expect them (nor want) to venture into for them unexplored waters of FW updates
  38. 3 points
    Hello all! New to the forum, and just got an InMotion V5F a couple weeks ago and I'm loving it! It was my first time ever trying an electric unicycle, but saw someone zipping through the city once and I just had to have one It didn't take long for me to get the hang of things, probably because I used to ride a Unicycle and I also slackline from time to time. After my second 2 minute session I was whizzing around and it felt almost like flying... definitely hooked! I just got back from a 5km ride, and by the end of it my feet were aching! I'm sure it comes with time, and the more I ride the longer I'll be able to, but curious to hear how other people who have been riding awhile feel after longer rides. Always so exhausting on the feet? Or is it just my poor form to start? I sometimes feel like I'm gripping with my feet and unable to relax them as I go... is this a normal feeling? At any rate, glad to join the ranks of electric unicyclist, and look forward to joining the community Cheers,
  39. 3 points
  40. 3 points
    Hey. See my quoted post above which explains my reasoning. Much the same requirements as you really. The KS 16S was tempting but I'm glad there were none available for 5 weeks which nudged me back to the V8. There are some posts here now about a few people with motor issues in the 16S. I've also picked up on some posts about firmware going out before apps could work fully with them (not 16S but other models). Now I'm seeing posts about bad voltage readings on the mainboards across multiple models and several people are affected. This can result in inaccurate overcharge or low battery reading which can cause unnecessary tiltback and I wonder if it could cause a cutout. I think there are more KS owners than Inmotion ones so it isn't unexpected to hear of more problems just because there are more out there. In the end though I think the V8 is a solid wheel that is built well and has very conservative limits set that can only mean a safer wheel. The specs of the V8 meet my needs 95% of the time. The range is the biggest bummer. I picked up a fast charger to help alleviate that in the situations I see it being a problem. Oh and if you really think you want a V8 don't deliberate too long if ordering from @Jason McNeil at eWheels. This shipment is his last where the V8 will be branded "Inmotion". Future ones will be branded "Solowheel" and there are hints the price will be hiked (for no real reason). Do a search to find what little info we have on this.
  41. 3 points
    A few negatives though: After the first ride my sand coloured pants were stained orange from the KS logo in the side pads. I ended up rubbing the logo off entirely with electronics cleaner (running out of IPA atm). Surprisingly the rock hard side pads also softened up as a result. They were so hard by default that I had big problems getting on without support because of the sheer pain on my shin. Pedal tilt is strange. If calibrated to horizontal, the pedals will tilt and stay tilted forward already at medium speeds. If calibrated 4 degrees backwards, the position at speed is good, but it will tilt back too much when going very slow. Bad for offroad. The manual is in Chinese, but using a live iPhone camera translator I was able to get a glipse. Nothing useful. I'm still at loss on what each of the button does in various situations. When charging, press both to see side lights (battery level), while the front light can be turned on with either button. These should all be covered in a user manual. The frame creaks quite a bit. Doesn't represent the quality of the wheel properly. Will seal it properly some day.
  42. 3 points
    I received my Ks18S yesterday, also :-) yip...oh dear Lord...brings it to the point! The "S" Versions are really a freaking drive experience!
  43. 3 points
    Couple or three things I think are helpful. Stiff soles are a must for longer rides. I worked my way through various running shoes with little success. Finally tried my Keen brand hiking boots, and they are clearly superior for riding. They have a very stiff sole, and also come up high enough so as to protect the ankles from the dread pedal-bite. The other critical thing is to keep your ankles flexing. You can't just plant your feet with locked ankles and expect them to be happy. Practice supporting most of your weight on one foot while you lift the heel of the other one and flex that foot forward. And/or lift the toe of the unloaded foot and flex it backwards. The key is to get some flex in those ankles. Lastly, taking the occasional break to rest your feet isn't a mortal sin.
  44. 3 points
    Not a bad idea, but I doubt worth it. Even if I could make one in, say, 20 hours, it would be 200 hours of work to do 10 pieces. The components and materials aren't that expensive, probably around 15€ total, but shipping from Finland to abroad is relatively expensive, even for the smallest packages it's between 23€ and 41€, depending where it's being sent. That's for "normal" packages, Express is more expensive, starting around 40€. So just to break even, I'd have to charge between about 35€ and 55€ for each, and more to make any profit out of it. Around that price range, you can get a new quality commercial pedal from eBay or such, cheaper for used ones. Guess which one people would buy, a proven, well-known pedal from a bigname-manufacturer like Boss or Ibanez, or a home-made pedal from some random guy?
  45. 3 points
    Anything but the Monster (because it is so heavy and rather fragile) is a perfectly fine starter wheel. Especially if your attitude is this: Some people like to work their way up, some people prefer to start where they want to end. You (and I) are of the second type. Perfectly good attitude. -- Looking forward to hearing any new wheel impressions
  46. 3 points
    Yes and no, using thicker/higher ampacity cable causes less power loss at the cable (less resistance = less voltage drop for same current vs. higher resistance), so the cables shouldn't then heat up as much. But of course especially in mass manufacturing, they won't use thicker wiring than is necessary, because copper ain't free and you can run into problems with space, bending radiuses for the wires and such. Nothing, sort of. The ampacities of the connectors are likely based on some (more or less theoretical?) model of the amount of power wasted as heat in the connector, and then they put a (conservative?) value on the connector at which it shouldn't heat "too much". Higher current will cause the connector to heat up more (I2 * R), then it's up to the specific heat capacity of the material (how many joules you need per gram of material to make it go up one Celcius degree) and the rate that heat flows off (radiates/conducts off from the connector) that can be used to determine where it will heat too much (like start to melt off plastic around the connector, if there is such). I don't know the specifics, probably there's a certain temperature (above ambient) that it's guaranteed to stay below at the maximum (continuous) current. I don't know if the values given in the connectors take into account power dissipation at soldered/crimped connections going to the connector ends. Of course, if you go above the rated ampacity, there's a chance that the connector will heat enough to melt the plastics (or the wire sheathings nearby), even the metal, or welds itself. Over a short period, you're likely looking at hundreds or thousands of amperes though. Otherwise the connector might heat up a little bit over that short period, but then cools down again once the current drops lower, as the heat flows off / radiates into the surroundings. I don't think this connector (and the nut, and the cable) were designed for this much power dissipation (here it's likely because of a bad contact, causing more resistance at the connection and heating up things through wasted power): I think that @zlymex said that he's put 60A fuse in his Gotway (MSuper V3?) and it has never blown, although fuses will allow higher current for short periods (there are different "speed ratings" for fuses, like slow, fast, very fast, ie. how long and how much overcurrent they can pass before blowing), but at least on average it would seem it won't stay above 60A for long.
  47. 3 points
    Without measuring, you don't, you could try estimating them based on the figures the wheel gives you, and then using an average, but the actual current changes a lot during riding depending on situation. Probably you could just go with a conservative value, like using a very low battery voltage and maximum peak power (4kW?), if the wiring should be able to handle that, you should have no issues with the wiring being inadequate at any point... 3V per cell * 20 cells = 60V (probably the wheel won't let you even ride it this empty) The current needed to produce 4kW at 60V would be 4000W / 60V = 66.666... A . The conservative value for 14AWG cable for chassis wiring is 32A, so roughly half of that. But, you won't be using 4kW of power constantly, or riding with depleted battery packs, and at higher voltages the current will be smaller. A more realistic scenario is likely that the average power you're using is typically way less than 1kW (probably a few hundred watts for riding a level road at steady speed, if that), and only goes up during acceleration and climbing. I'm not even sure if ACM/MSuper can peak up to 4kW. "In careful engineering the voltage drop, insulation temperature limit, thickness, thermal conductivity, and air convection and temperature should all be taken into account." Kinda hard without pretty good measurements or simulations of everything... just go as thick as possible? Adding more solder into the cup shouldn't raise the resistance, by the contrary, it should lower it, as there's more cross-sectional "path" for the current to travel through. Still, it might be tricky to solder, and you want as much as possible of "copper-to-copper" -contact to minimize resistance. Not that soldering tin's a really bad conductor either, but copper (and silver) are superior. Material Resistivity p(Ω•m) at 20°C Conductivity σ(S/m) at 20°C Silver 1.59x10-8 6.30x107 Copper 1.68x10-8 5.98x107 Annealed Copper 1.72x10-8 5.80x107 Gold 2.44x10-8 4.52x107 Aluminum 2.82x10-8 3.5x107 Calcium 3.36x10-8 2.82x107 Beryllium 4.00x10-8 2.500x107 Rhodium 4.49x10-8 2.23x107 Magnesium 4.66x10-8 2.15x107 Molybdenum 5.225x10-8 1.914x107 Iridium 5.289x10-8 1.891x107 Tungsten 5.49x10-8 1.82x107 Zinc 5.945x10-8 1.682x107 Cobalt 6.25x10-8 1.60x107 Cadmium 6.84x10-8 1.467 Nickel (electrolytic) 6.84x10-8 1.46x107 Ruthenium 7.595x10-8 1.31x107 Lithium 8.54x10-8 1.17x107 Iron 9.58x10-8 1.04x107 Platinum 1.06x10-7 9.44x106 Palladium 1.08x10-7 9.28x106 Tin 1.15x10-7 8.7x106 Selenium 1.197x10-7 8.35x106 Tantalum 1.24x10-7 8.06x106 Niobium 1.31x10-7 7.66x106 Steel (Cast) 1.61x10-7 6.21x106 Chromium 1.96x10-7 5.10x106 Lead 2.05x10-7 4.87x106 As you can see, silver & copper are actually superior to gold as a conductor, often you see connectors advertised with "gold-plated", they're actually higher resistance than copper or silver, but the point of gold plating seems to be the better corrosion resistance.
  48. 3 points
    My camera does 120 fps for slow motion at 30 fps so I thought I'd give it a try with my EUC. The video is several clockwise circles in slow motion.⏳
  49. 3 points
    I hope your confidence is well-founded. But I have to say, that wasn't my experience. I've been involved with various forms of athletics for several decades. Running, cycling, skateboarding, kiteboarding, skydiving, martial arts, bodybuilding, etc. Which gave me a false sense of confidence and led me to move too fast in my approach to EUC. Riding a wheel is a whole different thing, and it's really not worth pushing the envelope too hard. You rip the skin off your face, or fracture an arm, or slam the back of your head on the asphalt, that'll set you back. Take your time.
  50. 3 points
    I started on an AirWheel X8. Good starter wheel. Overall, safety has to do with staying within the boundaries of what your wheel is capable of. The capabilities of the AirWheel X8 are much narrower boundaries than many (most) of the top wheels today. Higher speed capabilities (even if you don't use them), higher battery capabilities (even if you don't use them), more powerful motors (even if you don't use the extra power), keep you more safely within the boundaries of safety. I had a bad fall and was injured (bruised ribs) by trying to go outside the X8's boundaries. Once one learns to ride well, the speed limit of the X8 and the constant beeping, beeping, beeping, and tiltback inspires one to attempt to keep riding the X8 during tiltback, even maybe with a low battery. This is not safe. If you stay within the boundaries of safety, and you continue to enjoy that, there is perhaps nothing wrong with an X8. The next generation rides (which are out already - reference the Ninebot One E+ and others) do offer wider boundaries of safety, and frankly quite a few amazing refinements. And the price differential does not appear to some (like me) to be great enough to compromise. I could show you my rib x-rays, but perhaps that is going too far. Wanna buy a used X8?