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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    I finally have an i5 in my hands! I wanted to make a post to document the process as I test it as well as to try and answer any questions the community has. If there is a certain test or questions please ask and I will try to get everything answered. Currently waiting for the battery to charge before I start recording and testing. Super excited. First impression is that it is unbelievably thin. The width is almost identical to a standard glass bottle. IBC Root beer tested. It also is definitely light, I haven't weighed it yet but the shipping weight was 22 pounds as a whole so it seems to be on par with IPS claims.
  2. 14 points
    First time out on the new wheel. She also hasn't rode a wheel in some time so you might give her a break. We have been riding around town since this and she has grown really fond of it. I will get a few more local riders opinions when I get the chance.
  3. 12 points
    (If it looks like not all pictures load, reload [F5] until they do) BIG BATTERIES ARE AWESOME! Electric unicycles are awesome! ACM is awesome! Night rides are awesome! Did a 57km, over 6 hour (including breaks), mostly unplanned ride. Here's the story: So yesterday, after mignight, it was so hot I spontaneously decided to do a short night ride to cool off. Well, not so short as I went for a scenic church on a foothill at the base of the mountains, 15km from and 350m above home. This one (pic from Wikipedia): Mountains where you see them (and to the left), valley to the right of what's in the picture, 350m below you, great views! Being 1am, it was dark night though (so not too many photos here, and a lot of text). Only the ACM's meek light to see the ground before you when there were no street lights or other illumination. The first theme of the ride (in hindsight) is, "Wait, is this path getting even worse?". First started when, after riding through empty streets, doing a small detour along a lake. The path quickly went from farm road to overgrown footpath to dodging and curving around trees and their roots on wavy terrain (as well as collecting surprisingly many spiderwebs with my face), with the lake and whatever canals to the sides. You can't see them, but you hear there's water when a frog jumps into safety or there's a little splash here and there. But with an electric unicycle, easily done, and fun. After a while, I reached paved roads again. On it went, on deserted streets, through fields, or right through villages, nobody to be seen. Night rides have their special quality! And it was nice and cool. Upon reaching the base of the mountain, my personal new hobby began: worrying about my motor cabling and the current produced. Inclines were quite steep, 15% in many places, 20A says the specification, 30A or 40A says the wheel when going up. Oh well! This can be done by doing breaks every few minutes, to prevent possible overheating. Took very many screenshots of the Wheellog current chart on the way up [more about that topic some other time]. Besides this, the rest of the ride uphill was fantastic, through pitch black forest, through meadows with the lights of the valley below you, passing neat farm settlements along the path up. On a nice, smooth road. Finally reached the destination, on the ridge of the hill. The church is on a small elevation above the street, a big tree next to it, with a bench under its branches. Great views of the valley, lights of the villages and Autobahn laid out before you, the faint silhouettes of the mountains behind you in the dark. Unfortunately, neither my phone nor the old camcorder I took with me could make a decent picture (the latter gives you nightvision pictures though). Phone pic of the view. Same view. Camcorder pic of the lights in the valley. Well some of them. I expected the church to be spot-lighted as it usually is, but it was not. Second theme of the ride reared its head: "This is more creepy than I expected!". Very dark, cold wind from the mountains, and as customary, a cemetary with the church. The entrance being a few steps behind the bench I sat on. While my naked eye could see nothing besides a tiny candle in there, thanks to the flash, here are some official creepy-vision pictures for your enjoyment. With ACM, of course. Phone pic with flash. These are the kind of pictures where you photograph into the darkness, and expect some undead staring back at you once you look at them later. Fortunately, didn't happen Relaxing in the dark. After some time trying (and failing) to get decent pictures of the lights in the night, I continued on. It was 2:30 am at the time. Being on a ridge, I rode the road along it, to a small chapel with a view similar to the church. Didn't stay long as the wind was howling there and there were people not to be disturbed, so no pictures. If you're wondering, there are a ton of churches, chapels, shrines in the area; typical for rural Bavarian areas. Back along the ridge, passing the church, I decided to descend another side of the hill. I started to use my phone for navigation. This was meant mainly to prevent going on the main roads as much as possible (though in hindsight, there was barely any traffic to be seen, maybe 2 or 3 cars altogether). So on it went, downhills, descending through meadows and neat little farms and villages. All nice, wide paved roads. After branching from the main road, the route became increasingly side-path-y, smaller roads, more curves, until suddenly the pavement ended and I was on a farm road. And there was a fork. The navigation told me to go right, but it turned out the path ended at some trees, with only a narrow breach, overgrown with tall grass, to follow through a forest. Too much to decently ride, even with a EUC. So back to the fork, and going the other way. Surely, this had to be a better way forward. And better it was, though it would still hold some surprises (theme #1). The path went downhill steeper and steeper, through parts of forests and between steep meadowy hillsides. And always little to be seen besides the sky, the lights of the valley in the distance, and the trusty ACM's light cone to illuminate what's coming. Very much fun! Creepytime came again when I heard unexpected movement to the sides. Just some cows I woke up, though. Sorry, cows! Cows, plus valley lights in the distance. Then the narrow path got even steeper, and I did breaks every few minutes again, just to be sure my cabling stayed healthy. It was broken up concrete plates by now, overgrown with grass, and some deep cracks and potholes for extra challenge. And even steeper it became. Way too steep to turn around without having to carry the wheel up. Looking it up afterwards, it was up to 25% inclines. For a EUC, this is a lot. Even downhills. Right when the end of the last and craziest piece of incline could be seen, I underestimated an extra big crack, and gave some new battle scars to my mostly pristine ACM. Oh well... Anyways, finally I arrived at more level ground again. No more breaks necessary. But extra super creepytime. Picture this: an old farm in the pitch black dark, a loud dripping (?) sound seeming to come closer everytime you look in another direction, lots of scary looking sharp farm equipment, right out of a horror movie. And a Jesus statue, looking down at you. Took some photos by the light of the ACM and phone flash. Drip drip drip drip drip..... in the darkness. It's just a small, remote mountain farm, but not looking that harmless at night. Shed in the darkness, valley lights still some way below. Also, in the photo it looks like a EUC is leaning there Ninebot? Hey Jesus, how are you! To the right, steep incline I descended from. On the left, the path forward, only slightly inclined downwards. The path onwards was farm road, narrow but easily ridable. Here's a decent picture from a short part where it actually went up, to pass an old little farm. With another (creepy?) Jesus statue and chapel, naturally. I did not stop for a picture as not to possibly wake up the people there, it was still around 4am. You can see it's still quite steep on both sides of the path. It got steeper and broken-up concrete road again, so narrow and steep I was wondering if they could even drive a normal car up to their house. Then some sudden rustling. Some more cows to the side! They didn't seem to be bothered too much by me stopping and photographing, but when I put on my backpack again, that must have sounded like I was taking something out of it. All the cows came. In doubt, animals always want one thing from you: food You can always see the lights of the valley in the background. I had a fantastic view for the entire time (unless when in a piece of forest), the valley, the mountains in front of the sky, just an amazing atmosphere to ride in Some time later, passing another farm, it got creepy and funny at the same time. Sheep. Lots of them. And they got loud. Did you know, in the black darkness, sheep sound surprisingly human-like? Spooky! They all came when I stopped (take a guess what they hoped for). I quickly took a picture of the sheep/extraterrestials disguising themselves as sheep (look at them, you never know) and went on. They got so loud I was scared they'd wake up the entire farm (still pitch black night), thus the hurry. Left behind some clearly disappointed sounding sheep when I continued. Sheep, or Aliens? You decide. Some more descending, and it looked like I was almost down. Paved roads! Here's a shed along the way. As you can see, the sky finally got a little bright. Around 4:30 am. Reaching the base of the mountain, crossing the main road, I did a little break at a swimming lake next to the river. The weather was a bit too cold for swimming though, so I didn't (did that on some earlier night ride though, was fantastic!). ACM at the lake in the dawn. I continued towards home on the dam along the river, and it got brighter and brighter quite fast. It is summer, after all. These pictures are around 5am. Cute tiny trailer. No more pictures from the way home, as nothing much special happened and my phone battery was near 0%. It was mainly an issue of getting the 10 to 15 km home. But the ACM to the rescue, thanks to its USB port! Tip: always take your charging cable with you! Initially I wanted to make a stop for recharging the phone, until I realized I can do that without stopping. This photo was actually made by accident but this is how I continued. Being freed of the phone battery constraint (worried to lose my GPS track that was still recording), and not having had enough EUC riding yet, I decided to make as many detours as I could before the wheel would start beeping at me due to low battery. One of the detours, a short dead end in the forest, gave some more small battle scars to my ACM, and bent my phone's cable. Thanks to something hidden in the high grass. The ACM's USB port was not damaged though. Very sturdy little machine. Picture from today. I continued on, doing whatever detours came to mind, draining the battery. It's surprising at what comparably little stresses the wheel beeps at you with low battery. In the end, I had to go 15 km/h or less to prevent beeping at every small obstacle, hill, or acceleration. Finally, at 7 am, 6 hours and 15 minutes after I had left, I was home again. Tired but very happy. Not a single time did I worry about my battery status or not getting home, as I knew the ACM had plenty of juice left. I did not even start with a full wheel, probably at 85 or 90%. 57 km ridden, in what was initially meant to be a 2 or 3 hour ride. BIG BATTERIES ARE AWESOME! Here's the track. With time and distance ridden Start at the red Cyrillic letter and go clockwise. That's the end of the story. Hope you enjoyed. And learned something: in doubt, always go for the bigger battery. Absolutely worth it!
  4. 10 points
    I would recommend that everyone who rides an EUC considers learning to competently hop up and down a regular curb or step - both are really useful manoeuvres. For small hops/drops you should be able to complete these at normal riding speed. For bigger hops/drops - these need to be attempted at much lower speeds. Hopping up on to a platform is obviously a lot easier than jumping right over something. You have to be careful with larger drops - I have burst a few tires and even cracked off a piece of rim (see photo below) when doing big drops (I would classify a big drop as 80 cm or more). Rider weight, tire pressure, EUC build quality and terrain surface are obviously important variables to consider when determining how big a drop you can complete. The tricky jump is the "Bar Jump" - there is very little room for error :-) My personal record for hopping up on to a platform is 40 cm/ 16 inches.
  5. 10 points
    I designed a motor that has been patented in China, which will change the design of EUC.
  6. 10 points
    Next to the ACM+, my current daily.
  7. 9 points
    Remember way back when "Made in Japan" products were considered poor quality? Now it's a completely different story. I wish Chinese companies like Gotway would adopt some of those improvements, values and quality levels that companies like Sony, Yamaha, Mitsubishi, and Toyota have been well known for. I guess though it has a lot to do with who you have available to engineer the product. You can tell whoever worked on the Ninebot One E+ that they had some sound engineering principles to work from. Sourcing components and specifying little details like finishing sharp internal surfaces and edges might add a little to the production cost, but It pays off in the long run as attention to details add up to a much more reliable product that continues to future products. I think If I ran an EUC company, I'd rather have my company be well known for going that extra mile and have excellent quality over pushing out products that aren't quite thoroughly engineered from the start. You tend to get loyal, repeat customers who believe in the brand and who have very good reasons to. The current business practice of trying to fix problems after release can dilute consumer confidence. We are still in the early days of these wild, wacky wheels so here's hoping for leaps and bounds in improvements!
  8. 9 points
    Sorry to hear about your crash and subsequent injuries, hope you recover well. Based on what I've read, the discharging capability (maximum currents and the total amount of energy that can be discharged) of li-ion starts to go down below freezing temperatures, most will still function ok(ish) for lower discharge currents (I've seen numbers like 0.2C and 1C mentioned in some sites, but these would likely be too low for most wheels), but very low temperatures causes the internal resistance to go up and the maximum capacity to (temporarily) lower, and will lead to massive voltage sag with high discharge currents. Although it's pure speculation, I suspect that hitting the pothole, the wheel tried to increase the current a lot to correct the position, and caused the voltage to sag too much for things to stay powered or the batteries simply couldn't deliver enough current (ie. the wheel ran out of torque) due to higher internal resistance. Vee (EUC Extreme) used (and probably still uses) separate battery heating-system during winter to prevent the freezing temperatures from affecting the batteries (at least as much). Plus at least at some point he also used custom set of Li-poly -batteries, which are said to handle cold weather better (ie. their internal resistance doesn't rise as much, and is in general lower than Li-ion's anyway). As all drivers in cold countries know, a warm battery cranks the car engine better than a cold one. Cold temperature increases the internal resistance and lowers the capacity. A battery that provides 100 percent capacity at 27°C (80°F) will typically deliver only 50 percent at –18°C (0°F). The momentary capacity-decrease differs with battery chemistry. The performance of all batteries drops drastically at low temperatures; however, the elevated internal resistance will cause some warming effect because of efficiency loss during use. At –20°C (–4°F) most batteries stop functioning. ... Specialty Li-ion can operate to a temperature of –40°C but only at a reduced discharge rate; charging at this temperature is out of the question. Matched cells with identical capacities play an important role when discharging at low temperature and under heavy load. Since the cells in a battery pack can never be perfectly matched, a negative voltage potential can occur across a weaker cell in a multi-cell pack if the discharge is allowed to continue beyond a safe cut-off point. Known as cell reversal, the weak cell gets stressed to the point of developing a permanent electrical short. The larger the cell-count, the greater is the likelihood of cell-reversal under load. Over-discharge at a low temperature and heavy load is a large contributor to battery failure of cordless power tools.EV drivers are being made aware that frigid temperature reduces the available mileage. This loss is not only caused by heating the cabin electrically but by the inherent slowing of the battery’s electrochemical reaction, which reduces the capacity while cold. http://www.batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/discharging_at_high_and_low_temperatures Another thing worth mentioning is that you shouldn't charge your batteries while they're still cold (less than 0...few Celcius degrees). If you like riding during winter, allow the batteries to warm up at room temperature for a while before charging them: Many battery users are unaware that consumer-grade lithium-ion batteries cannot be charged below 0°C (32°F). Although the pack appears to be charging normally, plating of metallic lithium can occur on the anode during a sub-freezing charge. This is permanent and cannot be removed with cycling. Batteries with lithium plating are more vulnerable to failure if exposed to vibration or other stressful conditions. Advanced chargers (Cadex) prevent charging Li-ion below freezing.Advancements are being made to charge Li-ion below freezing temperatures. Charging is indeed possible with most lithium-ion cells but only at very low currents. According to research papers, the allowable charge rate at –30°C (–22°F) is 0.02C. At this low current, the charge time would stretch to over 50 hours, a time that is deemed impractical. There are, however, specialty Li-ions that can charge down to –10°C (14°F) at a reduced rate. http://www.batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_at_high_and_low_temperatures
  9. 8 points
    A little video from DC, rode along the mall to Capital then to Lincoln and back. I do not have the gear to keep the Sony a6000 steady or a way to cancel the wind noise. This is my first video on a EUC so be warn.
  10. 8 points
    I must respectfully disagree to set at least the record straight concerning my beloved KS14C and to inform others. I did not jump curbs, no drops taken, and am not heavy at 75 kilos and my axle went bad anyway! And also did not ever get over the hip pain hurting stage to ride one foot, still not, so this might have also added stress even for super short periods of time, but it sure seems ANY EUC should be able to handle one foot riding for extended periods of time! I just advise all those with maybe even ANY E U C, but for sure any KS14C, to check the spacing between the pedal supports "pillars"? and the wheel, motor sides. AND STOP RIDING IF YOU HEAR ANY SCRAPING SOUND AND CHECK AS SAID ABOVE! It also could be very well true that some axles are and will remain just fine, while others fail. I am VERY interested to see how my warranty replacement axle holds up? ukj
  11. 8 points
    It comes with an extender for the valve. Has a screw and cap system to hold the valve away from the shell due to the narrow space. It makes air on the go more of a hassle due to needing a screwdriver but is otherwise kind of neat.
  12. 8 points
    Everything included. Charging port is very small and seems to be unique to the i5. The power button and charger are on the handle. Initial power up feels like the power button is placed very ergonomically. It really is hard to get beyond the narrow nature of this wheel.
  13. 7 points
    Okay, this may be just another crazy idea but hey, I figured I would throw it out there. There is a bike trail from Washington DC to Pittsburgh PA called the Great Allegheny Passage that seems like it would be a fun trip: https://gaptrail.org/ I checked and their official policy allows EUCs. If they don't check the rating on the motor you could even ride a Gotway Monster! "Bicycles with an Electric Assist System are considered to be any unicycle, bicycle, tricycle, or quadracycle with an electric motor not exceeding 750 watts of power, a maximum weight of 100 pounds, pedal-assist, and top-speed utilized not in excess of 15 miles per hour, or less if otherwise noted.* *This definition is in compliance with the Consumer Product Safety Commission Public Law 107–319, 116 Stat., Act 2776 and the Federal Highway Administration Title 23, United States Code 217." Just to give you an idea of pace and time, take a look at some of the organized tour sites. They have people covering about 50 miles a day which should be easily doable for most EUCs and leave some time for off-trail exploration. The entire trip takes 6 days. https://wilderness-voyageurs.com/adventures/pittsburgh-to-dc-gap-and-co-bike-tour/ Pittsburgh area also has the steepest street in the United States if you want to test your EUC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canton_Avenue I am completely out of vacation this year but would really love to do this some day.
  14. 7 points
    Nice, I "lighten" the wheel when going over curbs, taking the impact by bending my knees, not really hopping up. It seems to work well, never fallen going over a curb, but it doesn't always work "perfectly", as in, if timed wrong, the bump will move my feet a bit on the pedals, and is not as graceful. As for falls, I've had 6 falls in total in something like maybe around 3000+km total with 4 6 (forgot I rode a friends' KS16B last summer and had Vee's / EUC Extremes MCM2s on loan) different wheels, but no real damage to myself (so far, let's hope it stays that way ) thanks to the gear. My first and worst one was the very first day I got my 14" generic, I had learned to mount it that day (hopping on and off the wheel for about 20-30 mins, the street I live in hasn't got anything near the road to hold onto, so I had to learn without any support) and could ride forwards and turn in wiiiiide circles, usually I just rode to the end of the street, stepped off, turned the wheel around by hand and rode back to the other end . At one point, I mounted, accelerated and probably just lost my balance, pushing the pedals backwards, causing the wheel to brake and fell down on the pavement. I've been wearing full gear all the time since the first time I ever stepped on an EUC (well, to be precise, I didn't get the wrist guards until a bit later after starting), so no harm there. Second fall was on my 3rd day, coming down from a speed bump, I guess I went too fast and the wheel just toppled forwards. I took a few fast running steps, hit my shoe on the curb (my toe was aching a few days afterwards, otherwise ok) and rolled onto a lawn, I also videoed it and I smashed the camera Later on that same wheel (maybe a week or two), I tried running it as fast as it can up an off-road hill (at that point, I was pretty much constantly riding at the tilt-back as fast as I can, which probably was around 15-18km/h or so). Of course the wheel gave up on a bump, and I took a few running steps before landing on my hands, the kneepads and skid plates of the wrist guards taking the damage (scratches). On the Firewheel, I once fell from a low(ish) speed going over badly ground frost damaged pavement. Again the protections cushioned the blow, only damage I had was a bit of skin lost from my pinky The last fall on the Firewheel was when BMSs of the custom packs cut power on downhill (overcharge... the BMSs were the wrong type), I don't know if it actually counts as a fall, as the wheel just shot off under me and I landed on my feet taking a few running steps and coming to a stop. The Firewheel shell got badly damaged, I got most of it repaired, but it never was really waterproof after that. My last fall was sometime last week (I think), nothing dramatic. We went to a really curvy and stony path with a friend, maybe about 20-30cm wide in the middle of the woods, something you wouldn't probably even try with a bicycle and I was riding the KS16S. My pedal got caught in some stones at near walking speed and as I stepped off, I slipped and fell to my back, but had a backpack with my jacket in it, so it cushioned the blow, and I just got back up and continued riding. No damage to the wheel.
  15. 7 points
    I walk the wheel down, no exceptions. However, I have occasionally dropped off a sidewalk by accident on my V5F, once was a huge drop (to me) and...nothing. The wheel did not skip, there was no loud noise, there was no heavy impact, nor loss of balance. It's as if you'd be better off just pretending the drop doesn't exist. I've fallen many times by slowing quickly and bailing when my wheel gets stuck. Saying that, I absolutely do not drop down any curb. Well, if it's an inch high, and even then I do not do that on my KS14C. Now going up small curbs using a little hop, that's a lot of fun and I do that a lot. Approach the curb (maybe 3 inches max), cruising slowly, bent forward with bent knees, and right when the front tire catches the lip of the curb jump up! I don't squeeze the wheel at all but rather just let it crawl awesomely up and over the curb. Occasionally I make a perfect leap but much more often I'm a bit (or a lot) of balance. Great fun! You'd be surprised at how much fear is involved in jumping up a tiny curb like that which, realistically, you'd have to be a total dork to injure yourself, but I assure you I chicken out plenty of times when approaching a curb to jump. Some of those curbs look like this to me...
  16. 7 points
    Lately, GotWay's seemingly below average quality standards in combination with the risk exposure merely from the high speed these beasts allow, became the catalyst for a more generic discussion about Quality Management and Quality Assurance. As this is relevant for all EUCs regardless of brand, I suggest collecting our thoughts on this topic in a separate thread. To prevent a wild mishmash of ideas (and risking to loose sight of some important ones), I also propose to separate EUC Quality Management (Assembly / Production) - in this thread here, and EUC Quality Management (Product Design / Change Management) - in another thread. In this place I suggest to collect and discuss all measures we expect any responsible EUC manufacturer to apply to his production of any given (i.e. readily designed) EUC model to prevent Failure of the wheel to keep the rider in balance when operating the EUC inside the advertised margins, Secondary risks, like fire hazards, Failure of the wheel to complete a planned trip, Failure of advertised functionality/properties (e.g. Bluetooth, water resistance) Poor production quality reducing the lifespan of the EUC or its components (e.g. by corrosion), Poor assembly impacting the serviceability of the wheel (e.g. by using glue instead of screws), Incomplete delivery (missing/wrong parts, screws, etc.), Cosmetic imperfections. Is this list complete? Do you agree with the sequence of priorities? Once we settled on a common list of goals for production Q-management, what can we do directly and short term to make it happen? At least: to start a dialog with manufacturers and come closer to finding and implementing the desired balance between QA efforts and price impact for each of the brands we love? My suggestion: we develop a questionnaire for manufacturers listing concrete QA measures and ask for the current way they operate, their willingness to implement the measures, expected price impact and comments. Next, we appoint one Q-spokesperson per brand we love and care about out of our membership. If we find more than one candidate for a brand, we vote. If there is no candidate for any particular brand, tough luck, you're out. Personally, I would not exclude anybody (except manufacturers and their employees of course). An elected Q-spokesperson can be a dealer, "fanboy", accident victim or anybody else who cares enough about production quality and feels able and is trusted to communicate effectively with a manufacturer. Those Q-spokespersons present our questionnaire to their respective manufacturer, explain the context and the weight and reach of this forum they represent (5000 members and probably >50.000 readers; @John Eucist can you help with some impressive stats?) and collect their respective brands responses for us. Dealers may utilize this dialog to negotiate production of special Q-Edition wheels incorporating quality improvements defined by this process under the condition, that they may reserve exclusive rights for distribution for max. 6 month - after that, any special Q-Edition wheels need to be available to all sales channels. Does this approach make sense to you? Is it fair? Any more promising suggestions to move things quicker? Would you even consider being a Q-spokesperson, if so: what brand? Manufacturer Questionnaire: this will become a multi-page list of questions and must try to include all the "crowd intelligence" from our members. Just to get things startet, let me try to write up 3 examples: Quality Measure: Written/pictured Work Place Instructions Do you have written/pictured work instructions for every step of the assembly of every currently produced EUC model available for all assembly workers? Do those instructions clearly show, what parts to use? Do those instructions show, what tools to use and what the correct settings are (e.g. torque setting for electric screw drivers; pressure setting to fill tires, soldering temperature)? Do those instructions include cabling plans and show exactly, how cables must be routed? Do those instructions clearly show, which parts need to be secured for vibration or humidity with sealant, glue or tape and how it must be applied? Do those instructions include decision making, which parts are fit for assembly and how to identify parts, which are not? Do those instructions include measures against ESD damage to electronic parts (like wearing a ground strap)? How do those instructions prevent high current sparking during assembly? By enforcing a sequence of steps, which ensure equal levels of battery charge status and proper sequence of connection. By requesting the worker to charge the batteries to equal level? What is an assembly worker expected to do, if something "does not want to fit" according to plan? Make it fit? Ask a co-worker for help? Ask an engineer/manager for help? Do you maintain a "white list" of parts/components, which may be repaired when faulty (e.g. connectors, incorrectly seated tires)? If no, do you maintain a "black list" of parts/components, which must not be repaired (e.g. straightening of a bent motor axis; exchange of a single battery cell)? Do you agree to show the existing work place instructions to our Quality Spokesperson? Do you require a NDA for that? For those suggested measures, which are not in use yet: do you plan or consider introducing them? Quality Measure: Single Item Tracking Data Do you keep complete records, which assembly worker performed which assembly tasks per EUC serial number? Do you keep records of all parts and modules purchased from suppliers with the respective supplier batch IDs? If so, do you keep records of which parts from which supplier batches were used to build which EUC by serial number? Do you record all failed parts prior to assembly, during assembly and after (i.e. in complete units)? For every supplier batch consumed completely, can you evaluate the number of good vs. rejected/failed parts? If so, can you differentiate failed parts by EUC model, they had been consumed into (e.g. failed MOSFETs in model A vs. failed MOSFETs of same source/type/batch in model B)? Can you differentiate the above by firmware revision used in the affected EUCs? If so, is such an analysis possible with little effort or does it require substantial manual work? Do you agree to show these records (without price information) to our Quality Spokesperson? Do you require a NDA for that? For those suggested measures, which are not in use yet: do you plan or consider introducing them? If so, in the form of paper records or as an IT solution? Quality Measure: Incoming Goods Inspection Do you have a process in place that requires an explicit internal release before any incoming goods may be used for production? If so, what is the qualification of the person in charge of the release? Do you receive complete manufacturer batch information along with the goods delivered to you (i.e. can you tell precisely, which items have been produced in which production run)? Do you receive trustworthy documentation along with incoming goods about the quality category of the parts/modules (e.g. "automotive grade" certification)? Do you perform a technical inspection of incoming goods before release? If so, by visual inspection (100% or % of sample size)? by non-destructive functional testing (100% or % of sample size)? by destructive testing (% of sample size or number of items per batch)? What test setups are available to you (e.g. motor test stand; circuitry for main board stress testing, metering equipment for sensors or battery capacity)? If so, own equipment on site or option to rent/test externally? Do you keep manufacturing batches of incoming goods separated until consumption in assembly? Do you agree to show inspection and test protocols to our Quality Spokesperson? Do you require a NDA for that? For those suggested measures, which are not in use yet: do you plan or consider introducing them? If so, what testing rigs do you plan to introduce? ... to be improved/completed! Obviously there are more questions to ask, like own quality checks by the manufacturer during and after assembly ...
  17. 7 points
    Considering that the axle needs to be hollowed out to have wiring come out of one side plus it requires a flat side or two, wouldn't it make life a lot better to just have a larger bearing and axle diameter? That way you can pass through heavier gauge wiring easier, flatten sides all you want and eliminate the possibility of axle breakage completely? Sure the motor covers would need to be able to accommodate the larger bearings and thicker axles would be needed, but in the end a little over-engineering can avoid problems from ever occurring. If an axle breaks once, it likely will happen again. Why not eliminate that possibility with some simple changes? How much can a slightly larger bearing and axle cost in the large scheme of things? If you ask someone do you mind paying a little extra for an axle that can never break, or do you want a wheel with an axle that might not break if you're lucky, which one do you think they would opt for after riding somewhere for 30 kms in the middle of nowhere?
  18. 6 points
    I have no idea what they're saying; it's a number of people doing an eval of the I5. Lots of footage in action.
  19. 6 points
    Speedy Feet IPS i5 Review
  20. 6 points
    I wonder if this can even be pinned down to any coherent answer, riders and wheels both being built so differently, but humor me if you will and share your opinions and/or experiences. Do you step off your machine when a curb comes along? Do you go up or down stairs on your wheel? Jump? Do you slow down or speed up to do it? How safe do you think it is to do any of that, either for your health or your machine? Would you recommend it or advise against? And do you yourself practice what you might think should be preached?
  21. 6 points
    I haven't had the pleasure of trying winter-riding, There hasn't yet been a winter where I'd have a working wheel But EUC Extreme mentioned to me once that without battery heating and Finnish winter (-15...-30 Celsius or such), starting from the room temperature the battery dies in about 10-15 minutes while riding (as in, not "dies" like doesn't work at all anymore, but apparently it won't give high enough voltage for the wheel to keep working). I've also read the warning not to charge batteries below 0 Celsius, IIRC, it can damage them permanently. At least earlier, EUC Extreme's heating systems were made by some guy who usually builds them for RC-helicopters & planes for winter flying.
  22. 6 points
    Coming DarknessBot 2.0! - Added Siri Support. Say on connected EUC: "How much charge is left in my car?" - Added Neural Network. More smooth remaining mileage prediction - Improved Apple Watch App - Added Rockwheel (GT14, GT16) Support - KingSong / Gotway: fixed voltage and battery level
  23. 6 points
  24. 6 points
    12 inch, power 1200W, very suitable for mountain off-road EUC. Also use the 247 package MOS, the controller will be installed in the middle of the motor.
  25. 6 points
    I have done over 1000km on my E+ running 1.4. I have not had any problems. I have run my battery down so low that the max speed is a brisk walk. It has never cut out. When you say that most people have little faith in Ninebot what are you basing this on? I thought Ninebot machines were generally considered to be quite reliable, well built and safe, albeit somewhat slow and boring by current standards.
  26. 5 points
    wow, so many questions! First welcome to the forum..but sorry its late i take my answers short: 1. from my experience get the biggest batterie available....even with that commite range and your weight 2. 16 is much mor stable, 14 in my view is more of a trick unicycle...so get 16 or 18 inch 3.from what you said....go for the Ks16s 840wh...long range...much safety....and no...you want ruin it...pack it in rubber tape...all fine! 4. from my view: as a beginner it is not bad to buy from Ks France or Ks Germany/1radwerkstatt.de.....if there are ever any problems ....they have perfect service! yes, they are much more expensive than ali sellers....but in case of warranty...they are there! if you want to go aliexpress...i ordered 3! wheels there...no probs for me... but be warned: if there ever goes something wrong warranty wise....you might have to deal with that problems! aliexpress has a buyer protection ...so thats not the problem...but the aftersale Service in case of a Problem! so good night....conclusion: you choosed good wheels/ks16s is a burner....14s is a bit to agile for a beginner...my view c u
  27. 5 points
    I just went back and reread this thread from start to finish. Lots of great stuff! Three big "jewels" for me. One was the "triangle method" for mounting. But, I was confused by the guy in the video saying to "lock your knee", when he clearly wasn't locking his knee. I think the language translation was bad. I think what he meant was to lock the wheel against your lower leg calf. I hadn't realized how important this was for easily mounting the wheel. That's what keeps the wheel from flopping toward the foot you have on the pedal. I guess that's a "DUH!", but I just didn't pick that up until I saw the triangle video and thought about what he was trying to say. Also, centering the calf of the lower leg over the axle (versus trying to minimize the amount of your foot that overhangs the pedal). This makes it MUCH easier to hold the wheel against the calf of the leg while mounting and dismounting! Also, just today I discovered the merit of lots of short practice sessions, versus long cruises for improving riding skill. It was a bit of a hassle to get ready to ride. All the safety equipment to put on and lacing up my high top boots. Then, it wasn't easy to mount the wheel (though I started "cheating" and using a retaining wall to get on). So, once I got ready to go, I wanted to ride a while! Today I'm doing some processing of some very large files. This means that I have to launch a process on a PC, then wait five or ten minutes before I can do the next step. So, I'm keeping my boots on! I've been doing this for a few hours, but while waiting for the processing to finish, I've been going out in the driveway to practice mounting and figure eights. I've made more progress in five or six five minute sessions than I do in several half hour cruises! And, I'm having as much fun doing fast and tight figure eights as I did being a little scared while cruising along at higher speeds. Thanks for all the great posts! I love this forum!
  28. 5 points
    I believe the conclusion in this forum is that, electrically, more mosfets is nonsense. You should use better ones instead of more. So 12 vs 6 is (ultimately counterproductive) marketing; 6 better mosfets would be the proper way to do it. I think KS did exactly that in their S versions.
  29. 5 points
    In Germany we have a popular saying: Making an elephant from an mosquito... On the the five e-wheels i owned until know, some of them "known" as "axle-problematic" the very least problem i have with them was with the axle.... in my opinion, there are much more worse problems that need solutions, and that very quickly! the main one is -in my view- redundance! as long as there are stories of firmware-batches, which lead to a cutout by a bump or small hole, we can have better mosfets, capcitors, more voltage, better axles, and what else not - the hole day long! that all wont help!!! As long as one of the main producers, whatever its name is, does not solve the main problem of our beloved unicycles, and that is IMHO to have a redundancy-board-batterie-wheel-safety solution...all those little improvements as mentioned above, will help nothing! In my view the company which can provide a REAL safe wheel will be the winner in this games! perhaps my view is a bit overdrawn....but who ever experienced a cutout, fall, crash which is related to technics...looses a lot of trust in our beloved gadgets and keeps wishing for a much more intense view on safety!
  30. 5 points
    I agree! Even if you decide you would rather dismount your wheel than ascend or descend a stair(s) the maneuver will prepare you for any bump in the road or large tree root in the woods. Eventually the maneuver will become automatic with very little thought process involved. Amazing legs of steel! If Segway/Ninebot ever decides to grow into a serious competitor of Inmotion, GW or KS, etc. it would be to their advantage to hire someone of your caliber to promote their products!
  31. 5 points
    Lazy and/or careless engineering in our wheels? Noo, that has never happened...
  32. 5 points
    Discharging under high load and low temperature is a good way to shorten the lifespan of your battery, an even better way is charging it when it's frozen. It's better to not let the battery cool down below 10°C before riding, and especially before charging. If you start with a warm battery in cold weather, the battery will most likely not cool down to much, as losses inside the battery produce some heat, however I'd not rely on the battery warming itself up from below 0°C. I once tried that, and got a low battery warning within about three minutes of really slow riding.
  33. 5 points
    This is indeed key. Another way to put it: I let the wheel climb on its own with as little as possible rider weight on it. Similarly for down curbs but "in opposite order": if time allows I bend the knees in advance, ideally such my own CoG practically only changes horizontally while going down the curb (knees remain soft and never fully straighten). This, I believe, removes a lot of strain from the axle, probably at least halving the additional stress.
  34. 5 points
    Some words to the 14c "axle" problems... Yes, there were several axle failures on older models, the 14c has gone (at least) through 3 iterations.... On newer Models, the axle problems have bin resolved so that there is no way to speak from "several/often" anymore. Yes, still on the newer models, or on 16B's "sometime" there can be a breakage, but its no "systematic fault" anymore. from my experience: if you ever, ever hear any sounds from your pedals when mounting, or under heavy load, like a plastic crackling /gnarcing....there is a good chance that one of the pedalarm holding bolts, which secures the pedalarm to the axle, has become loose! This bolts getting loose, are putting an much higher stress on the axle as normal...it means that on every movement the pedalarm is working against axle and shell! And weakening the axle! Then it is hurry time for maintenance and securing this bolts again! When the Pedalarm scatches against the wheel while driving...chances are high, it has come to a point where it is to late and the axle is allready broken or deformed and just in a happy case the bolts are just ultra loose! So main Point: Listen to your wheel! On all newer KS models, 14d, 16s, 18s the axles again should have been overworked, but this is just a statement of KS employees, and i personally havent seen one in real life.....but AFAIK there is no report of axle problems on newer models known until now.... And btw: Axle breakage is possible on every wheel...GW, IM...its just that these wheels have other/bigger problems which are under the spotlight ;-)
  35. 5 points
    Darn right Canada sucks! Summers are too short here, it snows like crazy sometimes, plus the government taxes the bajeebers out of you. It's almost as bad as Finland! Add to that they fine us and consider us criminals for having a little bit of fun on a single wheel - I'm ready to move to St. Maarten. Screw you Canada, screw you!!! Oh hold on a second - can't do that. All my money is in Canadian dollars, and they suck too at the moment. Oh well it's still bright outside - I think I'll go out and break some laws with my Ninebot. Edit: Why can't we be more like Russia?
  36. 5 points
    Good thing too since you missed that giant hairy spider, hidden in that crevice, that leaped out at him. I ride off 90 degree sidewalk curbs every now and then. It jars the wheel a bit so I don't do it too often. I think if the shell had some sort of suspension component it would be more pleasant. My battery is pretty secure so I don't think there's a huge problem dropping off small curbs. I've ridden over small dirt ramps at medium speed a la EUC Extreme style but on a smaller scale of course. There's a tendency to fall backwards after cresting the peak so it's probably best to have a forward lean stance to counter that.
  37. 5 points
    Do you step off your machine when a curb comes along? No Do you go up or down stairs on your wheel? No Jump? No Do you slow down or speed up to do it? Slow down, actual speed depends on the height, slower for higher / steeper curbs, I "lighten" the wheel by bending my knees when it hits the curb (going up), when coming down, I just ride over it How safe do you think it is to do any of that, either for your health or your machine? So far, no faceplant, sometimes I don't get the timing right, and my feet shift on the pedals, which I correct afterwards, for machine, see next point Would you recommend it or advise against? For lighter riders, I don't think the wear on axles / pedal hangers is too high, but might be different for heavier people... I don't really know. The safest option is of course to step off and "walk" the wheel over the curb or find another point with less steep / high curb And do you yourself practice what you might think should be preached? Basically, yes, as I'm in the "feather-weight" class...
  38. 5 points
    when I started out about two months ago I bought (splurged, really...) a fancy-schmancy carbon full face helmet, wrist guards with dual splints and skid plates (thanks for the recommendation in one of your posts, @esaj...) and knee-pads. I hadn't worn the knee pads at all - just once, I think, since starting riding. but today I decided to wear them, now, whenever I go out riding. there's been a lot of (not undue) fuss about wheels cutting out for various reasons, whether it be an issue with firmware or components/engineering/pick one - but if you're riding around and you're not familiar with the terrain you can just as easily wipe out. today, I rode about 15-16 km and I wiped out twice! first one wasn't really a wipe out, as I didn't fall down, but my wheel fell - I was going uphill on this bike path and decided to turn around. it was kind of narrow and as I was exiting the turn the wheel dipped more than I thought it would and I stepped off... not too bad. fast forward- I'm going about 7mph, not too fast, on a sidewalk I hadn't ridden down- there was one slab of the sidewalk that was jutting out way above the others. I thought,'i can't ride over that,' and the decided I would try to jump it. now, I haven't worked on jumping so this was kind of risky. basically, my jump failed... I don't really know what I did, but it was a weak-ass hop, haha. I ran off the wheel and stumbled forward about 10 feet, dropping the bottle of tequila I was carrying (didn't break!) falling onto my knees and hands on the sidewalk. msuper's fine, I'm fine, tequila's fine... anyway, for whatever reason, you could fall. I might have had a banged up knee or two and bloody palms if I hadn't been wearing my gear. oh yeah, I also found a $20 bill on one bike trail!
  39. 5 points
    Thanks, I think I just peed my pants a little watching that video.
  40. 5 points
    I would feel very disappointed with a machine that failed so catastrophically within a couple of thousand miles.
  41. 5 points
    Seems to be a shop in Taiwan, neat. People seem nice. I love how the shell is not mirrored, but also flipped, so you only have one shell part that fits both sides. Power button on the one hole, charge port on the diagonal hole, cool. It's just quite neatly constructed.
  42. 5 points
    As soon as it came in I went looking for a banana. Dreadnought Martin and a Fire extinguisher.
  43. 5 points
    Testing wheels for how fast they go will always be fraught with danger. But if you're going to do so I strongly suggest that you disable the tilt-back. It's a debatable point in this forum, but some of us believe, and I'm one of them, that when tilt-back kicks in at very high speed it may require an additional amount of power from the wheel that doesn't exist, and it cuts out. So I always turn off the first two alarms and disable the tilt-back. But when I hear the 3rd alarm I always slow down immediately. Never have had a cutout.
  44. 5 points
    You guys might laugh at me, but I am always focus on being practical and cheap. Face plants are real threat to every one of us. Regular bike helmet will not protect you from face plants. For some reason they don't think protecting the face is an issue, instead they protect mostly the back of the head. In my experience when an EUC suddenly cut off or a pothole trapped the wheel, the rider always falls face front, and no time to react or even turn the head. So why wear a helmet to protect the back when the most needed protection is in the front? I wear a softball face mask when riding EUC, as the picture shown below. It's not pretty but it will certainly protect me from hitting the ground on my face. And it cost only $30. It's light and easily to wear and take off. I can wear it at the hottest summer days. Also I plan to add a rear-view mirror to it.
  45. 5 points
    After reading of many issues about speed and safety, I tried to have a better understanding so I said here I am on a trapdoor below my feet which will suddenly open by rotating, not sliding that too easy, so I'll fall from a certain heigth (H) tilting forward. And this is not the worst because as H increase you have time to react while falling from the wheel you have 0.15mt always which is no time at all, so you have to think to fall almost like a dead body So what's the H value, by comparing kinetic energy and gravity potential energy, you have: H = 0.5 * V*V/g , H: heigth meters, V: speed mt/sec = km*1000/(Hours*3600), g: gravity 9.81 mt/sec^2 Here some numbers V km/h 5,00 10,00 15,00 20,00 25,00 30,00 35,00 40,00 H mt 0,10 0,39 0,88 1,57 2,46 3,54 4,82 6,29 have you ever been at the swimming pool on the 2 mt, 3 mt, 5 mt platform? OK now take the water away and put some solid ground and tell me which protections to use for a dead fall from 5 or 6 mt !
  46. 4 points
    Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I suppose. I remember when I was a kid, I bought this really nice, slim Sony Walkman. It just had a cassette player to play my mix tapes on the bus (no radio), but it was super slim - not much larger than the cassette itself. It had a stick of gum flat rectangular battery which I thought was cool. It was all metal, and esthetically they just nailed it. I couldn't find a photo, but it was sort of like this except nicer. The flat drive motors were amazing. Mine was champange coloured. It's an amazing feat to have eliminated the bulky pedal support with direct to shell mounting. Hopefully V2 and future designs will up the style factor up a notch.
  47. 4 points
    Yes you would definitely want to earn it before pushing too hard 😂 Low temperatures seem to have the effect of increasing the internal resistance within the cells, whilst this will in itself you would think would simply result in heating them up more quickly it does seem to degrade the cells over time. Obviously the best strategy is to start with the battery at room temperature. @esaj and @EUC Extreme are probably our best experts on this being that they ride in such sub-tropical paradises as Finland! I believe @EUC Extremehas arranged heating on his battery packs? @esajhas covered this in his usual comprehensive style here:
  48. 4 points
    I upgraded to 1.4.0 at the time it was released (long ago) and did not have any issues. I did more than 2000km on the NB1 E+. I am riding the wheel at max speed most of the time, which turns out to be 23kph for my model and the 1.4.0 firmware. Sometimes I ride slightly into tilt back, with the wheel beeping at me. I also go up and down a pretty steep road on a daily basis, where the wheel is at its limits for a few minutes (close to the 1500W max. going up hill and around 10-12 Amps reverse current when going downhill). I found this firmware 100% stable and trustworthy. No issues at all. My weight is around 80kg.
  49. 4 points
    King Song KS-14S is going to be available soon, please wait for it.
  50. 4 points
    I'm 41 and always enjoyed being outside on long walks or bike rides. A few years ago I started having mobility issues due to problems with my spine and eventually it got to the point where I could only walk very short distances before I was in a lot of pain. I don't drive so it meant getting a bus to and from work and each weekend was spent resting so that I could be ready for work again on the Monday. Last year I had an op on my spine that has stopped some of the symptoms and pain that I had but hasn't fixed me totally as I still have trouble walking distances, especially when it's cold and damp. Just after my Op I decided I needed to find a way of getting out and about again and initially I looked at the "Hover boards" but quickly decided the wheels were too small and it wouldn't be maneuverable enough for commuting to and from work. One day I was have a slow walk around a nearby lake with my girls when I saw someone following behind their small child, who was riding a tricycle, riding an EUC and started to look into them. The bulk of videos I found where by Ian at Speedy Feet UK and I was convinced that I wanted a Ninebot One E+ so purchased from him. Even though standing and walking usually gives me a lot of pain, somehow, standing on an EUC and riding for miles doesn't - when the weather isn't cold & damp. When the weather was nice, very quickly, the Ninebot became not enough. I was riding on it's tilt and it didn't do enough miles to a charge. I picked up a spare battery but didn't fancy carrying it around and messing about taking the case apart to replace it. Earlier this year I saw images and snippets of information regarding the Gotway ACM and instantly wanted one. When they were released I gave it a few weeks then got one - still too soon as it appears they don't/aren't able to test them properly or they would have picked up on the poor screw quality, small pedal size and random low speed cutouts. Since I bought mine the pedals have been made bigger and the control board has gone from 6 to 12 MOSFETs. There seems to be less reports of issues now. The EUC is my version of a mobility scooter. I use it to commute to work, pop to the shops and general cruising about, when the weather is nice. My kids love it too as daddy looks cool riding it and we get to go for rides, with them on their bikes, like we used to. Unfortunately for them the ACM can do upto 25 miles on a charge for me so they have ridden 21+ miles in a day during the best parts of the summer hehe