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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Wee J @ his school talent show, they were a bit short on space. We played a video in the back ground as he wasn't able to fit a flying trapeze or aerial silks in his school. LOL
  2. 7 points
    I designed a motor that has been patented in China, which will change the design of EUC.
  3. 6 points
    Okay, this may be just another crazy idea but hey, I figured I would throw it out there. There is a bike trail from Washington DC to Pittsburgh PA called the Great Allegheny Passage that seems like it would be a fun trip: https://gaptrail.org/ I checked and their official policy allows EUCs. If they don't check the rating on the motor you could even ride a Gotway Monster! "Bicycles with an Electric Assist System are considered to be any unicycle, bicycle, tricycle, or quadracycle with an electric motor not exceeding 750 watts of power, a maximum weight of 100 pounds, pedal-assist, and top-speed utilized not in excess of 15 miles per hour, or less if otherwise noted.* *This definition is in compliance with the Consumer Product Safety Commission Public Law 107–319, 116 Stat., Act 2776 and the Federal Highway Administration Title 23, United States Code 217." Just to give you an idea of pace and time, take a look at some of the organized tour sites. They have people covering about 50 miles a day which should be easily doable for most EUCs and leave some time for off-trail exploration. The entire trip takes 6 days. https://wilderness-voyageurs.com/adventures/pittsburgh-to-dc-gap-and-co-bike-tour/ Pittsburgh area also has the steepest street in the United States if you want to test your EUC. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canton_Avenue I am completely out of vacation this year but would really love to do this some day.
  4. 5 points
    We're just all trying to subconsciously win a Darwin-award...
  5. 5 points
    I must respectfully disagree to set at least the record straight concerning my beloved KS14C and to inform others. I did not jump curbs, no drops taken, and am not heavy at 75 kilos and my axle went bad anyway! And also did not ever get over the hip pain hurting stage to ride one foot, still not, so this might have also added stress even for super short periods of time, but it sure seems ANY EUC should be able to handle one foot riding for extended periods of time! I just advise all those with maybe even ANY E U C, but for sure any KS14C, to check the spacing between the pedal supports "pillars"? and the wheel, motor sides. AND STOP RIDING IF YOU HEAR ANY SCRAPING SOUND AND CHECK AS SAID ABOVE! It also could be very well true that some axles are and will remain just fine, while others fail. I am VERY interested to see how my warranty replacement axle holds up? ukj
  6. 5 points
  7. 5 points
    12 inch, power 1200W, very suitable for mountain off-road EUC. Also use the 247 package MOS, the controller will be installed in the middle of the motor.
  8. 5 points
    Considering that the axle needs to be hollowed out to have wiring come out of one side plus it requires a flat side or two, wouldn't it make life a lot better to just have a larger bearing and axle diameter? That way you can pass through heavier gauge wiring easier, flatten sides all you want and eliminate the possibility of axle breakage completely? Sure the motor covers would need to be able to accommodate the larger bearings and thicker axles would be needed, but in the end a little over-engineering can avoid problems from ever occurring. If an axle breaks once, it likely will happen again. Why not eliminate that possibility with some simple changes? How much can a slightly larger bearing and axle cost in the large scheme of things? If you ask someone do you mind paying a little extra for an axle that can never break, or do you want a wheel with an axle that might not break if you're lucky, which one do you think they would opt for after riding somewhere for 30 kms in the middle of nowhere?
  9. 4 points
  10. 4 points
    I walk the wheel down, no exceptions. However, I have occasionally dropped off a sidewalk by accident on my V5F, once was a huge drop (to me) and...nothing. The wheel did not skip, there was no loud noise, there was no heavy impact, nor loss of balance. It's as if you'd be better off just pretending the drop doesn't exist. I've fallen many times by slowing quickly and bailing when my wheel gets stuck. Saying that, I absolutely do not drop down any curb. Well, if it's an inch high, and even then I do not do that on my KS14C. Now going up small curbs using a little hop, that's a lot of fun and I do that a lot. Approach the curb (maybe 3 inches max), cruising slowly, bent forward with bent knees, and right when the front tire catches the lip of the curb jump up! I don't squeeze the wheel at all but rather just let it crawl awesomely up and over the curb. Occasionally I make a perfect leap but much more often I'm a bit (or a lot) of balance. Great fun! You'd be surprised at how much fear is involved in jumping up a tiny curb like that which, realistically, you'd have to be a total dork to injure yourself, but I assure you I chicken out plenty of times when approaching a curb to jump. Some of those curbs look like this to me...
  11. 4 points
    Ohhh, wonderful! It works! Shipping such appliances to the world is part of the "German Initiative for Global Garage Learning Experience (GIGGLE)"! You know, "Give a man a fish..."
  12. 3 points
    Nice, I "lighten" the wheel when going over curbs, taking the impact by bending my knees, not really hopping up. It seems to work well, never fallen going over a curb, but it doesn't always work "perfectly", as in, if timed wrong, the bump will move my feet a bit on the pedals, and is not as graceful. As for falls, I've had 6 falls in total in something like maybe around 3000+km total with 4 6 (forgot I rode a friends' KS16B last summer and had Vee's / EUC Extremes MCM2s on loan) different wheels, but no real damage to myself (so far, let's hope it stays that way ) thanks to the gear. My first and worst one was the very first day I got my 14" generic, I had learned to mount it that day (hopping on and off the wheel for about 20-30 mins, the street I live in hasn't got anything near the road to hold onto, so I had to learn without any support) and could ride forwards and turn in wiiiiide circles, usually I just rode to the end of the street, stepped off, turned the wheel around by hand and rode back to the other end . At one point, I mounted, accelerated and probably just lost my balance, pushing the pedals backwards, causing the wheel to brake and fell down on the pavement. I've been wearing full gear all the time since the first time I ever stepped on an EUC (well, to be precise, I didn't get the wrist guards until a bit later after starting), so no harm there. Second fall was on my 3rd day, coming down from a speed bump, I guess I went too fast and the wheel just toppled forwards. I took a few fast running steps, hit my shoe on the curb (my toe was aching a few days afterwards, otherwise ok) and rolled onto a lawn, I also videoed it and I smashed the camera Later on that same wheel (maybe a week or two), I tried running it as fast as it can up an off-road hill (at that point, I was pretty much constantly riding at the tilt-back as fast as I can, which probably was around 15-18km/h or so). Of course the wheel gave up on a bump, and I took a few running steps before landing on my hands, the kneepads and skid plates of the wrist guards taking the damage (scratches). On the Firewheel, I once fell from a low(ish) speed going over badly ground frost damaged pavement. Again the protections cushioned the blow, only damage I had was a bit of skin lost from my pinky The last fall on the Firewheel was when BMSs of the custom packs cut power on downhill (overcharge... the BMSs were the wrong type), I don't know if it actually counts as a fall, as the wheel just shot off under me and I landed on my feet taking a few running steps and coming to a stop. The Firewheel shell got badly damaged, I got most of it repaired, but it never was really waterproof after that. My last fall was sometime last week (I think), nothing dramatic. We went to a really curvy and stony path with a friend, maybe about 20-30cm wide in the middle of the woods, something you wouldn't probably even try with a bicycle and I was riding the KS16S. My pedal got caught in some stones at near walking speed and as I stepped off, I slipped and fell to my back, but had a backpack with my jacket in it, so it cushioned the blow, and I just got back up and continued riding. No damage to the wheel.
  13. 3 points
    when I started out about two months ago I bought (splurged, really...) a fancy-schmancy carbon full face helmet, wrist guards with dual splints and skid plates (thanks for the recommendation in one of your posts, @esaj...) and knee-pads. I hadn't worn the knee pads at all - just once, I think, since starting riding. but today I decided to wear them, now, whenever I go out riding. there's been a lot of (not undue) fuss about wheels cutting out for various reasons, whether it be an issue with firmware or components/engineering/pick one - but if you're riding around and you're not familiar with the terrain you can just as easily wipe out. today, I rode about 15-16 km and I wiped out twice! first one wasn't really a wipe out, as I didn't fall down, but my wheel fell - I was going uphill on this bike path and decided to turn around. it was kind of narrow and as I was exiting the turn the wheel dipped more than I thought it would and I stepped off... not too bad. fast forward- I'm going about 7mph, not too fast, on a sidewalk I hadn't ridden down- there was one slab of the sidewalk that was jutting out way above the others. I thought,'i can't ride over that,' and the decided I would try to jump it. now, I haven't worked on jumping so this was kind of risky. basically, my jump failed... I don't really know what I did, but it was a weak-ass hop, haha. I ran off the wheel and stumbled forward about 10 feet, dropping the bottle of tequila I was carrying (didn't break!) falling onto my knees and hands on the sidewalk. msuper's fine, I'm fine, tequila's fine... anyway, for whatever reason, you could fall. I might have had a banged up knee or two and bloody palms if I hadn't been wearing my gear. oh yeah, I also found a $20 bill on one bike trail!
  14. 3 points
    I was so close yesterday! Everything is wired, side panels back on, turned it on and the ACM came to lifeand then I turned on the fan.I mounted the damn thing upside down and it was sucking in air as opposed to blowing it out. Discouraged I left and headed to the lake. What's a few more days? Maybe GW will have some answers by then.
  15. 3 points
    At least Daao Electric (AKA Xinaoma / DAAO) has done motors specifically for EUCs ("self-balancing wheelbarrows"), they have some listed in their catalog (some even with IPS -logos in their sides), but I know that for example Firewheel motor is theirs, but not listed: http://www.daaomotor.com/html/Self-balancing_Wheelbarrow_Motor/ Unfortunately, they don't seem to list much specs for the motors in their pages.
  16. 3 points
    Tesla coils are awesome, there was one at a museum that you could charge and fire but it had something like a 45 minute time between firings. It was pretty large, and when it went off the smell of ozone was everywhere. Read a book on Nikolai Tesla, he was a genius but tested x-rays on himself and some think that caused his health to fail. He sold a lot of patents for very little money and died a pauper, what a shame, while Edison made a small fortune with his inventions.
  17. 3 points
    A question chaps... There seems to be some speculation (?) about whether there is a different number of windings, and if thicker copper has been used. Are these assumptions (based on the fact that the is more room), or so we know for a fact that there are more windings with thicker copper?
  18. 3 points
    It's definitely electrical. You can hear, and it can't be mechanical anyways as it happens when the wheel is perfectly still. Made a video but you can't really hear it there, so I guess it's not that bad. I mainly noticed as my first ACM motor didn't do that (or I didn't hear it). But some arcing is definitely there when the wheel is still or nearly still, sounds like the Gotway magic gnomes have a tiny tumble dryer full of tiny rocks Interestingly, it gets notably louder when you switch on the light (heard that with my old ACM too), so if you ever come across an ACM, you can try. edit: as per the light thing, it may or may not be the actual motor itself doing the sound.
  19. 3 points
    Coming DarknessBot 2.0! - Added Siri Support. Say on connected EUC: "How much charge is left in my car?" - Added Neural Network. More smooth remaining mileage prediction - Improved Apple Watch App - Added Rockwheel (GT14, GT16) Support - KingSong / Gotway: fixed voltage and battery level
  20. 3 points
    I've ridden the GT16. It is louder than any other wheel I've used (ACM & MSuper for sure). That being said, you still can't really hear it much as the rider because of the wind noise in your ears.
  21. 3 points
    You should hear my ACM Hunka! Super quiet!
  22. 3 points
    Same here, just was reporting back what others have reported. I was in the same boat, but once I learned how to sit and ride on the Monster (KS18A is currently out of commission, but looking forward to doing the same) I barely ride the Monster standing. Seated gives you more leverage to really push the wheel to accelerate as you can really bear down on the front of the wheel without the sensation of overleaning. Don't really see how being much taller should matter seated on the similar-heighted KS18 & Monster; @Bryan Wells looked more than comfortable seated in videos on KS18, and I believe he's around the 6' mark. (remember, you must lift your heels with feet forward on pedals as I believe a kind of counterbalance) The trickiest part is turns, but I've learned that you basically slip 'n slide across the seat counter to the direction you are turning. Yes, the MSuper being so low makes it a bit harder to sit down, but for some, it's doable, esp with the seat (probably not at your height). I as well, when buying the Gotway seat for my Monster (KS18's have seat included with the wheel) thought it was ridiculously over-priced and a bit of a luxury, but realized how necessary it was for seated riding when I learned to turn while sliding my bottom / weight contrary to the turn direction (like how bike racers lean their knees to the ground for turns). Without the seat, you have nothing to slide against, which makes learning how to turn seated much harder.
  23. 3 points
    Yes, @esaj you are right, I'd forgotten the original post by @Paddylaz. However, unless something like a bent axle has occurred, or, as suggested above the tyre tread pattern is having an effect, there is nothing else on the wheels mechanical or electrical geometry that should be capable of inducing a sideways movement. What we do know about the Inmotion range is that their peddles, and hence CofG is higher than most, if not all, other wheels. That should mean that any of the known causes of wobblying are more likely to occur on the v5 or V8. Possibly all it takes to appear to happen when the battery is lower is that the speed is slightly lower and holds a harmonic point long enough to for it to amplify or even that slightly more lean is used as acceleration has reduced very slightly due to the lower voltage? You certainly can get into a sort of pilot induced oscillation on any of these wheels if, just like on a plane, your corrections get exactly out of phase with the event. I hadn't had any sort of wobbles for more than a year on my KS-14C until I rode along a very wet and muddy track and my wheel started to oscillate sideways like I was doing the twist, I managed to reach and grab the fence at the side of the track JUST before I was thrown face first into the mud.
  24. 3 points
    April 1 should be the official celebration day. What? We're all riding on one wheel zipping around like maniacs and relying on Chinese technology and dangling capacitors on wires to keep us safe? That's gotta be some kind of joke right?
  25. 3 points
    Beyond any reasonable doubt: the Russians hacked it! The party? At the Kremlin, where else?
  26. 3 points
    I would feel very disappointed with a machine that failed so catastrophically within a couple of thousand miles.
  27. 3 points
    The Amish are so gracious! Normally they do not like their photos taken but the father agreed...sort of. Interesting contrast in technology.
  28. 3 points
    KS changed that with two caps on later versions...my 14 c had this second cap on the same place where you put it, so i guess that is ok.... secure it by some rubber pieces, so that it can not move or brake his legs! to the usb: older versions of this small board had usb...but it was getting rid of because its in no way waterproof! So IF you want use it ME PERSONAL would take a extension cable to make it longer and lead it somewhere out, where water can not go in the shell..... dont use it by pulling a hole into the shell on the upside or if you decide to do that, then do silicon it like hell and use a waterproof plug to secure it properly!
  29. 3 points
    Here's a cherry I've popped way too many times. My frickin' Bosch piece of crap dishwasher!!! It seemed like such a good deal a few years ago, but gosh darn it German engineering is not so good. I have had to fix it countless of times. So many that I know every component by heart! It leaks (fixed), the soap door doesn't open (fixed), water doesn't drain (fixed), stops prematurely (fixed) and now it quit washing. This is the water pump. It's not really designed to be opened up easily, but I did it anyways. That grey thing is the impeller which has these tiny plastic legs that apparently clip into the thin fibreglassy nipple spinny swiss cheesy thingy to drive water through the spray arms. Notice all the tiny legs have busted off. Why not just make a simple metal propeller pump that would last forever? Nope that would make too much sense. So basically I JB Kwikwelded the impeller back on praying it will stick for a little while until I get a replacement pump. They also use these stupid plastic clips that are impossible to reassemble as you have to press fit the shell back together. Ugh why not just incorporate four bolts with nuts to fasten it all together? That would be too easy. Luckily I managed to reassemble things, and it all works again! Yippee! When it works, it works pretty good, but when it dies it is a pain to fix all the time. I'm glad that I can do it myself rather than call the repair guy in. I have to add appliance repairman to my signature... Bosch. Is that German for "Busted?"
  30. 3 points
    Have you ever considered axial flux motors? Custom design can be made much cheaper than radial flux motor because stator design does not require custom laminations to be stamped .
  31. 3 points
    Those are the two electrolytic capacitors. Be careful with them as you don't want to short or damage the metal legs. Is that one cap off board? Wow looks like someone soldered some wires to the cap legs to allow it to be stuffed in the side area because it's too tight around the board? That's interesting and not really a sound kind of design element? It should work, but I would secure that cap with some tape to the casing or something to avoid it bouncing around due to vibration. Are you sure you got the right parts version for your wheel? Regarding the USB there are USB extension ribbon cables you can get, but maybe a correct part would be better? Did your old board have an extension cable?
  32. 3 points
    I have done over 1000km on my E+ running 1.4. I have not had any problems. I have run my battery down so low that the max speed is a brisk walk. It has never cut out. When you say that most people have little faith in Ninebot what are you basing this on? I thought Ninebot machines were generally considered to be quite reliable, well built and safe, albeit somewhat slow and boring by current standards.
  33. 2 points
    The father was asking all sorts of questions such as how long did it take to learn to ride, how do you go forwards and control the speed, how much did it cost? I then decided to ask if I could prop my wheel against his wagon and take a photo. Knowing the culture I was prepared for his polite response "No." But the rest of the family was far enough away looking at garage sale items that he finally concurred. Notice how he turned his face away from the camera. The Amish actually do use power tools. I have hired them a number of times to perform maintenance at the lake. They love soda!
  34. 2 points
    I believe the mosfets would die far before the voltage can go high enough to actually cause arcing in the motor. And even if the motor would cause internal arcing, it would likely burn through the insulation lacquer or whatever they use and ruin the motor. Maybe the step-down coils "whine" with the frequency at which they're being pulsed (or some lower fundamental of the step-down frequency, likely the actual frequency is much higher than audible)?
  35. 2 points
    With the armature of any motor you have a physical airspace, ideally you want to as much as possible, to totally fill that with copper as the more copper you have got the more current and lower resistance you will have. You can do that two ways (or any intermediate way between those two.) you can have a large number of turns of a single, or small number of, thin strands of wire = low Kv, low maximum current, high torque constant. Will support a high(er) voltage. you can have a very small number of turns of very thick wire, in practice it is usually lots of thin parallel wires as that will better fill the airspace with as much copper as possible = high Kv, high maximum current, low torque constant, suits a lower voltage. Additionally whether the coils of the armatures are connected together in star or delta configuration also impacts the Kv value. So, whilst a larger motor will, inherently be prone to having a lower Kv, since a small motor and large motor can be wound with exactly the same Kv (but the larger one would require less turns of thicker wire.) then the torque of a larger motor will be significantly higher due to its higher current capability
  36. 2 points
    Wouldn't the noise be coming from the flux capacitor?
  37. 2 points
    And sorry again that is complete and utter rubbish. I've got tiny little motors with the same kV as much larger ones. The big ones have grossly more Torque. You are getting completely confused about what the torque constant Kt actually means. torque constant Kt is indeed directly related to Kv Kt=60/2Pi x Kv but, and this is a REALLY BIG BUT, KT is the torque produced divided by armature current. A physically larger motor has more room for copper wire and can, therefore carry considerably more current. Turning the above statement around torque = Kt x I (where I is the current flowing. ) So Kv only directly controls the output torque when the same physical size motor is wound for a low Kv or high Kv. A bigger motor wound with thicker wire such as to have the same Kv will generate more torque due to its ability to take more current.
  38. 2 points
    Sorry that article is absolute total rubbish as far as EUC's are concerned. It is based on the very simple idea of a fixed sized motor being wed to a spoked wheel and is perfectly correct in so far as a smaller wheel will, for a given motor give more torque (but also a correspondingly lower top speed as well.) It will be EXACTLY like you are using a lower gear with a smaller wheel. however, THE BIGGER THE MOTOR DIAMETER - THE GREATER THE TORQUE, so a larger EUC, with a physically bigger motor in it will have considerably more torque. It is the very reason that our EUC, and the vast majority of model aircraft motors are outrunners i.e. With the coils in the middle and magnets outside, increasing the moment arm (I.e. Radius) increases the torque in exactly the same way that a huge bolder can be moved by one man on the end of a long pole..
  39. 2 points
    But with an ebike, the motor / hub doesn't change, so wheel diameter changes torque / acceleration / speed. But for an EUC (and please someone, correct me if in wrong), isn't the motor diameter different for different sized wheels? And doesn't that change the math?
  40. 2 points
    Thanks, I think I just peed my pants a little watching that video.
  41. 2 points
    Oh @Marty Backe, if it wasn't for so many lovely people like yourself, American friends on this forum and beyond, we (as in: "the rest of this planet as we know it") should build that wall around the US, make it high enough and put a lid on it to confine this attitude. While we're at it: may we pleeease send Volkswagen and Bosch management over, too?
  42. 2 points
    Hi Guys, I have developed a small electronic circuit. Thus, the steering sensor can be reversed without removal. Advantage: 1. Adjusting the zero point (offset) to eliminate uncontrolled turn to the right or left 2. Adjusting the gain> Improving the steering behavior (gain between 1.0 <> 0.5) 3. Switch between normal and reverse mode by means of a switch Circuit diagram: Construction of the circuit: Connecting cables: For testing, bevor installation, the circuit was supplied with a constant voltage power supply (5.0V), and the Hall sensor was simulated with a potentiometer (4.7KR). Installation: Fazid: by reducing the gain the steering behavior improves dramatically, it runs much more softer and safer. Reproduction: The Operational Amplifiers (OP) (OPA340) must be "Rail to Rail" and "Single supply". These components should also work: OPA365 / TLV271 / ADA4841-1 The connectors are 3 pol. JST-PA connectors. Have fun with the reproduction Greetings Donald
  43. 2 points
    Yesterday was the most visited for this site ever just a year ago. I don't know why and am hoping someone else does. Also, where was the party at? When do we declare a dedicated day to the art and hobby that is EUC-ing? What day? Do we just toss a dart at the calendar? Who tosses the dart? Do we toss a dart at the member list? Plz Help.
  44. 2 points
    I saw a second cap on a video about changing a tire on a KS14C. I was wondering why that wheel had two caps instead of one. I considered adding a second to mine when I was replacing the control board, but it was a real chore just getting the connectors tucked in beside/under the battery, let alone another cap. So, I didn't bother. Anyone want to speculate why KS seems to have doubled the amount of capacitance at some point?
  45. 2 points
    Maybe they have price breaks for larger quantities, if you made a group order then the price could get lower per pair? Of course better make sure the measurements and design is correct before ordering a big bunch...
  46. 2 points
    These are the ones I used - By having them on the inside of the leg they provided support and padding so that when gripping the EUC (as most do when learning) the pressure was spread across the guards and not on one area of the leg/shin. As I said - without these I was in too much pain to ride the EUC as the pressure was on the damaged/painful area.
  47. 2 points
    I can only speak for the Rockwheel GT16, and it reacts instantly at 20mph and I weigh in at approx 204 lbs. I can't attest for speeds higher than that, as I avoid going faster for very long...
  48. 2 points
    @Spark: Great suggestion - I'll make sure we include that when we hopefully get far enough with this to collect a list of design principles! I really like the fact, that it promises more accurate warnings while being pretty easy to implement. What could be a bit more challenging is making it safe for the casual change of riders (you know, that "wanna try mine"-situation at group rides). One idea to solve that: store individual settings on an RFID chip for example in an ankle strap. That could also solve the issue, that any "beginners speed restrictions" for the first 100 km or custom settings to turn off alarm and tilt back should really be dependent on the rider, not the wheel. Letting a beginner ride such an "unlocked" beast, is a bad idea. So, the wheel defaults to the safes possible setting. Only the presence of the RFID switches to the customized settings, incl. riders weight. Geez, now you got me to troll my own thread off topic ....
  49. 2 points
    Seems to be a shop in Taiwan, neat. People seem nice. I love how the shell is not mirrored, but also flipped, so you only have one shell part that fits both sides. Power button on the one hole, charge port on the diagonal hole, cool. It's just quite neatly constructed.
  50. 2 points
    Thanks @Carlos E Rodriguez! While we are on the same subject, we are closing in from two different angles: You are talking "fire fighting", I am talking "fire prevention". Bear with me, please, I am little of a technical expert, but a consultant at heart: I have seen time and again, how businesses fail by just reacting to problems at hand, but neglect to develop a systematical approach to prevent such problems to occur in the first place. It's part of the growing pains of small enterprises, I guess. Investing in quality often seems like a luxurious waste of money initially. Why hire a completely unproductive "Quality Engineer", when you don't have enough people to assemble desperately awaited orders? That's where I believe we must step in: Regardless, of what design principles we prefer (enforced safety limits vs. choice to deactivate the safeguards), none of us wants to faceplant, because of crappy parts inside our wheels or stupid, undiscovered mistakes during montage. Here, we all agree! So, it's up to us to let the manufacturers know, that we expect 2018 EUCs not only to be "faster, higher, wider", but positively more reliable. Every. Single. One. Next year, I want to unpack and test ride my new wheel with sweaty palms from pure excitement - not the sweat of fear, my new pal may fail me miserably. And I beg all of you, to help making that happen.
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