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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/2017 in all areas

  1. 26 points
    I love my Msuper V3. But: when things get wet and dirty, it has this nasty habit to throw everything up my back the road has to offer. Uhhh, I don't like mud slinging (even though it seems to become increasingly popular in politics). So, here is my solution: a 3D printed mudguard! Pick it from the print bed, peel off the brim, smack it on your Msuper and you're set to go! If you have access to a 3D printer (pretty much any one will do), download the model file from here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2083438, use up some 70 grams of ordinary PLA filament (< $2) and enjoy riding through Siberia in the fall. If not, google "3D Print Service" and find somebody, who prints it for you for less than $20. I put the file into public domain, so anybody can use it privat or commercially. I positively invite GotWay (happy New Year, @Linnea Lin Gotway & @Jane Mo! Does CNY come with New Year's resolutions, too?) and the nice distributors in this forum to use it. Give it your own branding if you like. And folks, please don't complain, if a distributor asks 50 bucks per piece - they have all those warranty obligations, can't exclude liability (like I do ) and still need to make a living... Here's my test ride today on Tempelhof airfield:
  2. 15 points
    The video from my last freestyle session. A lot of fun!
  3. 15 points
    My new Gotway Luffy received a facelift today! Since Luffy will soon be headed to a pediatric rehab center for study I figured she will be tossed around a great deal and suffer from irreparable trauma so my staff and I fabricated a plastic protective outer shell. First Luffy was encased in plaster using bandages that are traditionally used for stabilizing fractures. Once the plaster bandages hardened they formed a replica of Luffy's shell.. The plaster shell was then carefully removed from Luffy. This required using a cast saw and then slowing spreading the plaster bandage to dislodge Luffy. The plaster shell, called a negative mold, was then poured will plaster of Paris and a pipe mandrel was inserted in the center of the mold. The mandrel allows for the mold to be placed into a vise for modifications and also provides a conduit for our vacuum system to extract air (discussed later). Once the pored plaster hardened the negative mold was removed exposing the positive mold. The positive mold has tiny flaws which need to be smoothed and filled. Once this modification is complete a cotton stockenette membrane is placed over the positive mold. This allows for adequate vacuum pressure and even atmospheric compression during the plastic draping process. We used 3/32" copolymer plastic for my protective shell. It has flexible properties but is rigid enough to handle bump and spills. The copolymer sheet was heated in a large infrared oven to 350 degrees. Once the plastic sheet was at the proper temperature it was removed from the oven on a caster type table and then the colorful transfer paper was applied over the plastic.The paper has specialized inks that literally transfer into the hot plastic. In my pediatric practice we have over 50 colorful patterns kids can select from for their orthopedic braces. The table holding plastic sheet was then rolled over to the positive mold and with the assistance of 2 of my staff the plastic was carefully lifted and draped over the mold. A vacuum pump was then turned on and the plastic was completely sealed around the molded so there were no air leaks. The vacuum pump then withdrew any remaining air inside the mold allowing the atmospheric pressure to gently form the plastic around the mold. Once the plastic cooled it was cut from the mold and taken to the shop area where it was further trimmed and ground smooth. Once the shell was complete velcro straps and padding were added. There are much easier methods to protect your wheel from abuse but this was a fun project and should make the kids at the rehab center very happy!
  4. 11 points
    Here's a quick sample from our ride in Phoenix today. Unfortunately I didn't have the camera out during the really good parts like the farmer's market, the central part of downtown, the museums, etc. But it was a great day with not-too-hot weather and good company. This was Emma's first day riding her Inmotion V5F+ (graduated from Airwheel) but you wouldn't know it. [proud dad] At 1:10 Emma had to do a run-off because her wheel got bogged down in loose gravel. At 2:27 you can hear a parking lot security guard yelling that we needed to leave. We rode up to the fifth floor and took the elevator down. At the end we have @dbfrese's crash immortalized. He was trying to toss a Nerf football. My alleged crash was not captured on video. Final score: about 15 miles of exploring downtown Phoenix, taking a little over four hours including breaks. It was a great day.
  5. 10 points
    Well, I finally decided on what to buy ... and to my surprise, it wasn't a Kingsong 18. It's an MSuper 3 with the 1600 wh / 1500 w motor at 84.2 volts. The higher voltage was one of the key things that sold me. I sprang for the seat too, since frankly I think riding a EUC seated looks as awesome to me as some say it looks dorky to them, and because it should provide some relief for my back on longer rides. I'd be surprised if it really works for me since I'd have to squat really low, but there's only one way to find out ... I made a deposit with Jason and am going to put some more money on my card in the next day or two and finish up the process. Time to go buy some protective gear! Hopefully soon I will be sharing my enthusiasm more than my injury photos. Boy is this gonna freak out the dogs ...
  6. 9 points
    It will be only a matter of time before this unicycle gets me laid as I am constantly stopped by young girls wanting to know what I am riding. So I cannot say the attention is all bad. Plus I'm good looking so they appreciate me grabbing them as they attempt to stay on the unicycle. I will say learning to ride a unicycle in the city is a great way to get over embarrassment. After falling off in the middle of an intersection for what must be the 15th time I can say I'm cool with public failure and humiliation.
  7. 8 points
    Got my first fall a day before yesterday (jumping off at 2mph at snowy hills does not count). This was completely my fault, V8 was doing great keeping me safe for half a thousand kilometers so far, and did good this time as well. The story is I was already near home, when seen a beautiful liner moored at the pier, so decided to ride another hunderd meeters to look at it. While riding alond at about 20-25 kmh and staring around, I clached a bump and lost balance. I was lucky there was a perfect asphalt right after, and that my shoes had a hard flat sole. So I jumped of the wheel and slided staying on feet for few meters. Like on ice, but on asphalt, right And my sole melted a bit because of the friction. Was lucky not to get any injuries, as I was not wearing any protection unfortunately (forgot helmet this day). The only thing I got was ankle sprain which bothered me for a day. The irony is I was only able to ride a wheel that day, as walking was painful But riding much carefully of course. Wheel got few new scratches and a shell cracked near a handle. It seems to be a weak point of this wheel, all the little cracks were only there so far. Disassembled it that evening for the first time to make sure all the internals are on their places. Was pleased by a quality of internals of the wheel btw, and how easy it is to maintain compared to my old one. Melting the crack with lighter made it look a bit better imo. Now we're back to normal, and the lesson is learned: watch the road, not the birds. Be safe!
  8. 8 points
    100 Km Gisors - Paris Porte Dorée (France). I tried to do the 100 Km without breaks or charge. Unfortunately only 90 Km (because of the wind) , I walked 10 Km (MS3+ 1600)
  9. 8 points
    I had a funny situation while riding this week I was going downhill narrow street and there was a guy going uphill in his car. When he noticed me, he smiled, put his arm out of the window and we 'casually' high-fived Totally made my day
  10. 8 points
    @Dingfelder 1. EUCs are very simple devices with very few parts, the result is basically two things can realistically go wrong and you have two types of repairs: Problems that require reconnecting cables (like a loose or broken connection, replacing a light,...). Skills for this are soldering and getting cables into connectors, that's pretty much it. A part breaks (broken axle, blown board, mysterious electronics shenanigans,...), then you simply replace that part (motor, board,...). So it's plug and play with just a few screws. Easy. Only problem then, you might also need to reconnect some cables. [if a battery pack breaks, you need a professional, but that is exceedingly unlikely and it may just be cheaper to get a new wheel instead of a replacement battery anyways] So soldering is more or less the only critical skill here. If you don't want to do that (I can't solder either and you want a reliable connection especially for a EUC) just find someone trustworthy who can. So even IF something breaks (which is rare as EUCs are so simple and the wheel you got from the dealer will be good, otherwise you'd have returned it/it is the dealer's problem), the worst case is not the end of the world, all you need is someone with a few electrical skills. 2. The typical repair shop would probably an electric bicycle repair shop. They do the exact same things with similar parts (similar or even identical motors, cables, connectors,...). If you're in the PNW you might be able to find at least one locally. That saves you the expensive shipping costs. And of course you can ask ANY dealer if they will repair an electric unicycle, not just the one you bought from. 3. Before anything else, there is this forum! Just ask here. So many knowledgeable people here who can guide you through what you need. They can tell you exactly what is wrong, what to do (even if you can't do it yourself) and what exact parts to use and steps to do. With that kind of information, you can go to a repair shop (bicycle, again, best bet) and maybe they can let you watch so you see them doing what you told them (the point is to save on labor costs AND be sure they are doing what is needed properly - a bicycle shop may not be used to the higher EUC currents which require better connectors, or whatever). Or you find another skilled EUC rider who can help you locally, for repairs. You could post a request in the Local Meet Up forum and in PNW chances should be good. 4. Chances are, you have a new EUC anyways before something breaks. From what I've seen, they are simple and durable and if they work, they work for quite a long time. Likely you will decommission/retire a wheel because there's a shiny new one and you take a aircraft approach to safety - replace before something realistically happens (watch these forums for old age malfunction reports if there are any). 5. Opening the side panels regularly and checking if everything looks good is a good idea in any case, if only for your peace of mind and how you feel how much you can trust your wheel. A little bit of preventive maintenance (not much you could do anyways). TLDR: What to do if you need repairs? Good dealer for the warranty period, and after that may be stressful and annoying, but not that bad if you think about it, and in addition quite unlikely you'll even need repairs. Worry about post-warranty repairs if something happens then. not now
  11. 7 points
    Just wanted to share another fast charging method I haven't seen posted. As I have multiple wheels (NB1 E+, KS-16S) as well as a ninebot mini-pro and an ebike. I was looking for a method that would work for all of them. Decided to purchase a Cycle Satiator (yes it's expensive but very versatile: http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html) and programed multiple fast 100% and 80% charge profiles it for each toy. Voltage is listed the original chargers for each and you just have to decide what amperage you want to charge it at. (up to 5A for the one I bought). I bought a packet of Anderson Connectors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P9CATU/ref=pe_861660_138883610_fxm_4_0_n_id) and inserted them on each of the original chargers as pictured below. That way the original charger still works and you don't have to find these odd connectors for each toy. Not trying to plug the Cycle Satiator just figured you all might find the setup useful as another option to consider. I've read up on fast charging, but some if it goes over my head pretty quick (and I still have a few questions) so if anyone sees any issues please let me know. Cheers, A
  12. 7 points
    So I came across electric unicycles after seeing a video of the Ninebot Mini Pro and being interested in buying one. I was mildly interested but never thought seriously about ever owning one until the end of April where I suddenly had a whole bunch of free time and started researching them extensively. It was Tishawn Fahie's review that finally convinced me the V8 was what I wanted after he said it was a great wheel to learn on. When it arrived I was incredibly wobbly; never tried anything like it, never been a skateboarder and haven't owned a bicycle in years. I did a few 20 minute sessions over the next few days - suddenly I had become busy again and didn't really have the time to practice. Anyway, when the weekend rolled around I managed to convince my girlfriend to come out with me and holding on to her, I slowly started to understand the feel of it but could only roll a few feet before falling. Man did the wheel receive a few scratches in the first few days. What was weird was how my brain seemed to rewire itself almost overnight. The previous day I was wobbly and couldn't ride without holding on to something or someone, and then the next I was just casually wheeling up and down the corridor in my house when suddenly I felt like I could ride it. I took it outside and went up and down the path a couple of times. It was amazing! I don't get excited over much but this was totally new and awesome. So fast forward to today, about a week and a half later and I've just finished my 60th mile. I can ride off-road, on grass, cracked mud, over tree roots, up and down steep inclines. I've got the cover for it and it feels super comfy. I feel like my balance overall has improved massively. I'm quite tall and lanky so I've always been a bit top heavy but now I'm really sure-footed and have no trouble keeping my balance on one foot and being crazy with the other leg. The V8 is amazing. You feel like you're flying. It's utterly addictive. I managed to hit 16.9mph this evening, but at speed it certainly feels a little scary and wobbly.
  13. 7 points
    I ordered a blue monster from Dion at Myfunwheel.biz, package came yesterday, upon anxiously opening the box, took off the charger then the top cover and to my surprise I notice it was not blue, it was purple!! So I proceeded to take it out of the box and let me tell you, the purple looks sweeeeett hahaha. It looks way better than the few pics that's on the net, I really, really like the purple. I haven't noticed anyone on the forum that has posted a purple one so just out of curiosity does anyone have a purple monster or know someone with a purple one?
  14. 6 points
    What's a Ninebot?
  15. 6 points
    As much as I would like to, I'm not always in a position to instantly reply messages. Goal is to usually respond within a couple hours, or perhaps a day at most, but occasionally when the tasks pile up, it's not always possible. Will be hiring a couple additional hands in the next month or so, which will give some more capacity... Over the weekend I had a chance to try out a few different model tires, to assess which ones have the most, or least, amount of clearance: the worst are the Chaoyang HS-5146 (which is a pity since I have quite a few of these as spares...). Stock Kenda's are acceptable, but even within a production batch there small irregularities with the rubber deposit around the perimeter which is why some tires may rub & others do not. It has has also been observed that tires inflated to >60psi will be more prone to scrapping. CST has a 1.95" tire which has plenty of clearance, so will probably be ordering a supply of these to deal with occasional scrapping problem.
  16. 6 points
  17. 5 points
    My new motor finally arrives on Tuesday thanks to @Jason McNeil! Interestingly they describe the motor as a controller weighing in at a hefty 11 lbs with no battery.
  18. 5 points
    It seems to me that due to the rather inefficient battery charging system on eucs where only a percentage of the power generated actually makes it into the battery, the rest being removed in the form of heat, it is highly unlikely that any added weight going down hill would increase the power generation sufficiently to offset the extra power required to keep the extra weight upright and balanced. The power required to balance a euc is considerable and increases with weight, this is why the smal 250w motors used quite effectively on electric bikes are no good for eucs. It is a basic fact that the best way to improve the performance of your euc is to go on a diet and certainly not carry any extra weight!
  19. 5 points
    I had my first real fall around 800 miles. Overpowered a Ninebot E going up a hill and slid UP the hill. Sliding on concrete around 12 mph is not fun. I still have some scars on one elbow, and it took a few weeks for all the skin to heal. I have ridden about 1500 more miles since them. I am probably due. I just got an Inmotion V8 that goes faster, but I am NOt pushing it, instead preferring to keep it below 15 and let the more powerful motor protect me. I have not gotten the 'slow down' alarm once, not felt the tilt back. Everytime I go riding, there are times where I am thinking "if this thing cut-out, I am screwed'
  20. 5 points
    "Hey professional manufacturer, where can I download the quite essential app for your product?" "Oh nothing unusual, just go to some random third party's Youtube video, a link to someone's Google Drive is in one of the comments. Then you just need to download and rename the file, and you can manually install the Android .apk. Easy!"
  21. 4 points
    Historical moment, Gotway has now more posts on this forum than Ninebot!
  22. 4 points
    The shell, assuming the rubberized version sold now is like the ACM's, is virtually bombproof (the screws are the weak point). These wheels are much sturdier than you think. If you want to use a leash, obviously fix it to the real handle (not the retractable one). You need to worry about scratches mostly, the wheel won't fall so hard while in training, it will just spin out. Underside of pedals and especially the pedal brackets (had to metal file mine clean) is in most danger, as well as any protruding corner (like the side panel extrusions' corners, side panel corners, and the top parts of the wheel, especially the front and back "corners"). The only place where you realistically need to protect against impact are the front and back corners on top.
  23. 4 points
  24. 4 points
    At the weekend I did 4 hours of riding down by the river/park over two days. Both days happened to have events on at the location and were very crowded on some sections of the route. I got a lot of comments and would say about 90% of them were positive. I have noticed a pattern emerging in what kinds of people make what kinds of comments. Kids under about 10 tend to be totally awestruck and encouraging and say things like "wow! what is that?", "Oh coooooool!" and "Look Dad! Look at that guy!". Teenage boys 12 and up tend to be stuck in their confused 'low self esteem + got to prove I'm cool' phase and when in groups they will say things like "Yo! WTF is that?", "Look at this F'ing guy on his flying wheel", "I bet you can't make it jump" and "Hahaha what's this guy trying to be?". They will rarely say a word when alone. Men about 23+ usually either ignore me but try to look from the corner of their eye, or say "That's pretty cool, man!" or if I'm stopped somewhere they will stare at me, quietly waiting for a chance to come and ask me questions with genuine interest, even asking where they can get one of their own. Women (especially those out running or walking in the park in groups) usually say things like "I could sure use one of those right now!", "Well I haven't seen that before", "Oh wow, look at him go!" and "This guy's got the smart way to travel". Then there are the jealous types and hillbilly types who just aren't very smart or socially capable, who will just shout out "Hey what the F is that?" or "How does that work?" and expect me to be able to explain the technology to them as I pass by at 20kph. Some of them are rude and say things like "oh look, the lazy way to exercise". Recently one young woman with her friends seemed genuinely interested in the wheel, but approached the interaction in a very brash, rude way by screaming "hey I need one of those! Come back here! I wanna know what that is!" and as I passed her on the way back she shouted repeatedly again and tried to block my path, even putting her hands out to try to stop me. I was able to weave around her and I just ignored her. I do not have time for people who approach me in such a loud, demanding 'stop and answer my questions right now god damn it!' way. What I have found is that the best way for me to deal with people is to ignore them if I am moving. I have stopped a few times and answered questions, but once they ask their usual 2 or 3 questions and say "well cool, man" they walk off and I'm left to get back on my wheel and set off again. And all the people who shout things seem to think they are the only ones to have made that remark that day or to have asked a question. But they are just one in a long list. I do not have time to stop or to reply every time someone shouts something, thinking they're smart and funny or that I should give them my time, only to be dismissed when they get what they want. So I ignore almost everyone now and carry on my journey. Something else I have noticed is that when I wear a backpack I get more respect and my guess is that it's because I look like this is simply my preferred mode of transport, not just a recreational toy. I'm simply travelling to work to some destination and instead of a car or a bike, I use a more modern piece of tech to get there. When I'm just riding in a T-shirt and no backpack people assume I'm just out having fun on some gadget, messing around. So now I wear a small backpack on every planned ride, even if it's empty.
  25. 4 points
    Credits for this video goes to @Bram Just posting it, because I was there too. It was a nice ride and a great opportunity to meet some fellow EUC enthousiasts
  26. 4 points
    @houseofjob Thanks for your support, we will continue to improve. At present the maximum motor speed has been changed to 63KM / H, We are also testing the 84V 10A charger. Can be used as a custom version of the model.
  27. 4 points
    Hello folks, So about two days ago I road my unicycle from my parent's house to my apartment (which is 3 miles away) from a 100% battery. When I got home,the battery was at 97%. I pursue to connect it to the charger and notice the the charger light doesn't turn red.. this was weird because the charger would charge the bot even if I turn it on and ride it for one minute. I thought maybe there is some weird exception going on and due to the colder weather (50F/10C - which I've ridden in before and never had this problem) here in NY, or maybe because I just wrote it 3 miles and it's still at a really high percent, that that was the reason it wouldn't charge. So today I took it to work and road it around later in the evening so that I could lower the battery and try again. I got back home and the battery was at 50%. I connect it to the charger again, and nothing. Still doesn't charge. At this point I knew something was definitely wrong, however, I didn't know if it was the Ninebot One E+ connector itself, or if it was the charger connector that was the issue. I went ahead and started to take pictures of the bot and the bot's firmware on my phone and then went ahead and opened the battery compartment and mobo compartment to see if I can see any signs that would let me know why this is happening. So this is what I found.. The following picture is actually a cable that isn't damaged but the cover is tearing apart. The cable is not on the battery side, but rather on the Ninebot side. Video below: https://vid.me/Z1K8 I'm not sure how this cable was cut like that since it was always protected inside of the case. However, when I did open the ninebot today, I noticed that the battery wasn't "glued" to the wall of the bot. So what I'm thinking that happened is that since it wasn't glued/secure/or the glue worse off since there is no stickiness anywhere on the battery, normal usage of the ninebot going through roads, bumps, etc would mean that the battery is jumping around the case unsecure, and that means that gravity would continuously stretch the cable until it snapped. Good thing that it wasn't the cables that actually powered the bot during operation that broke.. that would have been really bad if I was in the middle of the street and the main power cable to the battery snapped off. So for Ninebot users out there, I would encourage you to check your battery compartment and make sure your ninebot battery is fully secured. If anything, I would suggest adding some extra padding to the bottom, sides, and top and the left face the leans the battery's side with the side calf padding so that you can minimize or eliminate the movement of the battery during operation and avoid this issue.
  28. 4 points
    It depends on which pins you measure, but usually having 0-resistance (or very low resistance) between two pins is a sign of a dead mosfet. Of course there could be something in parallel with the mosfets, which may make diagnosis difficult. In a typical three half-bridge -configuration, all the mosfets are the same type, and should measure the same, as far as I know. If you still want to go ahead with replacing them, easies solution is to replace them all (assuming they're the cheap variety), but if you want to try and find only the broken ones, for "typical" N-channel mosfet pinout, you should get something like this as resistances: (Positive probe -> Negative probe) Gate -> Source: Infinite Gate -> Drain: Infinite Source -> Gate: Infinite Drain -> Gate: Infinite You may briefly see a high resistance value going up shortly, until it goes beyond the meter maximum limit ("infinite"), as there's some stray capacitance between the gate and other pins. If gate is directly connected to either drain or source, the mosfets' dead (gate insulation is damaged). Drain -> Source: Very high (megaohms) Source -> Drain: Depending on meter, possibly lowish (continuity/diode check should show a small voltage drop over) Drain -> source won't probably be infinite, but very high, megaohms or tens of megaohms or something, there's small leakage there that will give you some values. Measuring the gate could leave it charged near the threshold level, allowing some current to flow, if the gate is floating otherwise in the circuit, which could show up as a lower resistance (but shouldn't be anywhere near short-circuit, 10-100k's at minimum?)... If the drain -> source -connection is shorted, the mosfet's likely dead, N-channel shouldn't be fully open on its own. The latter one (source -> drain) measures the body diode, although depending on the circuit in the actual board, it could also measure separate flyback diodes nearby.
  29. 4 points
    I was riding around in a parking garage in a hotel last night and notice this sketchy hillbilly chasing me. I was freaked out. Turns out he was filming me because the euc was blowing his mind. We ended up having a beer by the pool. Nice guy
  30. 4 points
    Actually, I am rather confident @Cryptonitor already knew this. He probably just made that "calculation" up for entertainment purposes, or to provoke some German smartass like me to correct him
  31. 4 points
    Hi, silly question, can you confirm you haven't accidentally put the wheel into "speed restriction mode" in the App? Are there any beeps accompanying the tilt back and what are the LEDs on the wheel doing when this happens?
  32. 4 points
    Since I will be able to switch the fan on and off at my discretion this simple interaction should provide some degree of evidence based data on the efficacy of the fan and how it directly affects the ambient temperature inside the ACM. The data gathering will mostly be based of the output of temperature data logger. Now if you would like to donate your ACM to science I believe we can further the research in areas such as reducing pressure drop and eliminating flow induced vibrations that will aid in ensuring uniform flow parameters throughout the ACM shell.
  33. 4 points
    To be more specific, a "good" crimp done with proper tools is more often called "cold soldered" or "cold weld" (don't know if that's the correct term in English, but that's what it's called in Finnish). Here's one picture that Google image search for that brings up: Unlike "cold [solder] joint", a "cold weld" is a good thing. Look at the last picture in the image above; in "cold weld", the conductors within the wire have become pretty much solid mass pressed against the connector (inner) surface: that's more or less a "perfect joint". But, this kind of joints are mostly possible only with the proper tools, and as I stated above, the tools can be connector-specific and fairly costly (but not always), so getting such for a few connectors may not be (financially) worth it (ie. how much sense it makes to buy a, say, $500 tool + connectors to make a three connectors for motor phases for your own personal use? ). Of course, I'd prefer that the manufacturers use such tools and connectors in the first place, for mass production it should not be that big of an investment to get a bunch of tools and good connectors for each wheel for the production line to make sure the connections are good... The pneumatic hammer seen in some Gotway video (or was it Kingsong? Anyway, about their new connector procedure...) probably does the job, ie. compress the single conductors in the wire into a (more or less) solid mass? Basically, in this context, a "cold weld" seems to mean that the conductors "weld" together without actual welding (heating). For a proper "cold weld", soldering (or trying to, heating that lump of metal may not be easy ) it afterwards won't probably do much (ie. neither make it better or worse), the connection's pretty much solid all the way already
  34. 4 points
    My favorites are: "Are you from the future ?" "Did you build it yourself ?" "Is it electric ?" to which I replied "no, it runs on farts"
  35. 4 points
    I was on a elevator with my MCM4 (trolley extended) and this guy said to me - That's a nice luggage!
  36. 4 points
    I already found one incomplete attempted clone.
  37. 3 points
    no way - it's solid. mine only came apart because it smashed ridiculously hard into the ground multiple times in a row. i mean, REALLY hard... don't let it get away from you!
  38. 3 points
    Pretty easy these days, there's a bunch of places that handle low volume assembly and handle shipping like https://www.seeedstudio.com/ The microworks design is no good because it has through hole parts, better to use all SMD parts a robot can place. Same with using cheap MCUs, some newer MCUs have features that let you remove some other parts so it ends up smaller and cheaper. You have to look closely at the MCU features as well, some MCUs have specialized hardware that makes motor control much easier to code.
  39. 3 points
    If you look at the area on the pedal frame/support where the pedal contacts it while the pedals are folded out, there is the same transparent rubber/plastic piece. Early GT16s had an issue of this piece falling out, resulting in unintentional sever pedal dropping, thus the inclusion of extra pieces. However, it seems Rockwheel has been thoroughly gluing these pieces to the pedal frame; at least on my GT16, there seems to be little danger of these falling out.
  40. 3 points
    Recap from the Ride... thanks @Bram
  41. 3 points
    Yeah, it's a bit weird that they use thicker gauge on the board when the motor wiring is much smaller. Let's hope they'll change it in the future, although with the Firewheel, that never caused any problems (then again, the motor is 550W nominal). The alcohol-trick is very useful, have to remember it next time I need to figure out which component is shorted on a larger board. The IPA (isopropanol / isopropyl alcohol) is available in different sized containers from electronics component distributors and from pharmacies, but at least here, the pharmacy-stuff costs something like 80€ per liter, whereas I got a liter container for something like 5.90€ from TME Unfortunately I haven't got any type of microscope, I just use a handheld small loop and the camera pictures. The microscope would of course help a lot when soldering very small components (like 0402's or 0201's), but so far I've managed without one (and I mostly work with larger SMDs, like 0805's and 1206's). The heat and airflow are adjustable in most models, so that shouldn't be a problem as long as you try it out first to find correct settings. Mostly I'm worried how fast they breakdown, and sometimes badly built cheapo-stations can be downright dangerous (fire / shock hazard). That sounds pretty good, although based on what I've read, the noname-stations can be a bit of a hit-or-miss (ie. even if you buy exactly the same stations, one unit might be just fine whereas other has all sorts of problems... poor quality control?). Earlier this evening, I corrected the picture of the power-stage in one of the above posts... I rushed the measuring and didn't take into account that the inductor L1 has very low resistance, so I made a mistake in how the inductor is placed in the circuit (it's of course in series with the load, not in parallel). Now I poked around the gate-driver, and managed to get the circuit down. It's pretty basic, almost straight from the datasheets, although I don't know the capacitor values: Example circuit from datasheets: Circuit from the board: Forgot C17 and C20 (bypasses for the VDD-input) from the schematic... Each of the gate drive outputs have similar circuit, made from (probably) a ferrite bead, and a 75ohm resistor in parallel with (reversed, cathode pointing to the gate-driver chip) schottky-diode. The pins marked "STM32" go to the CPU, the actual legs are above C48 (if you look at the earlier pictures), but I didn't try to pinpoint exactly which input goes to which pin there. Notice that R10, R8, D8 and L8 are missing from the board. I desoldered them to make some measurements. R10 was removed so I can measure which way around the diode in parallel is (or if it's a TVS or something). It seems to be a schottky diode, with the cathode pointing towards the driver-chip pin, presumable to speed up the turn off of the mosfet by bypassing the 75ohm resistor. I also took off all the components on the R8/D8/L8 -set. I soldered the L8 to an DIP/SOP/TSSOP -adapter board, between two legs so I can place it on a breadboard. There's also the R8/R10 resistors and the diode there, but I was mostly interested in the inductor L8. I first tried to measure the inductance with my cheapo LC-meter, but it was so low that it couldn't read much anything. The lowest setting is 2µH, but it probably used fairly low frequency (never measured the output), and the reactance of the (presumable) ferrite bead is probably very, very low at those frequencies. Instead I then placed the L8 in series with 47 ohm resistor (the through hole on the board), and fed different frequencies of sine-waves from my DIY-signal generator. Didn't get that much out of it, except, yes, clearly it is an inductor, probably a ferrite bead The voltage-divider drops more voltage over the inductor with high frequencies, and less at low frequencies. Here's one of the scope screenshots 20MHz signal is fed through the inductor and the 47-ohm resistor. The yellow (channel 1) signal is the input from the generator (very messy, I had it hooked up with jumper wires and it picks up a lot of noise, some of it probably originating from the generator itself), the greenish/bluish signal is the voltage over the resistor. The "MATH"-signal is the difference between the signals. Anyway, with the input VPP average around 404mV, and the drop over the resistor at 115mV (average), it would seem that at this frequency the reactance of the inductor is about 115mV = 404mV * (47ohm / (47ohm + XL)) <=> XL = (404mV/115mV - 1) * 47ohm => XL = around 118.113ohm Knowing the reactance and the frequency, inductance should be around XL = 2 * pi * F * L <=> L = XL / (2*pi*F) For 20MHz, that should be about L = 118.113ohm / (2*pi*20*106 Hz) = 9.3991... * 10-7 henrys, or about 940 nanohenrys. (Assuming I got my math right and didn't make any "off-by-decade"-errors or such ) Not that the actual inductance even really matters... from what I've read, ferrite beads have (relatively) low inductances and tend to have more meaningful reactances in much higher frequencies (datasheets could give the reactance at 100MHz frequency, for example). With a sweeping signal generator (and one that doesn't add that much noise at high frequencies ), more accurate values could maybe be obtained, but I don't have such a signal source, and like said, probably it won't matter that much. EDIT: And reading further on the subject, you can't even calculate the inductance at higher frequencies like this: Could I technically calculate the inductance knowing that the impedance of the inductor is (ZL = j*2*pi*freq*L)? Yes, but only as a low frequency estimation. At high frequency, the ferrite works as a lossy inductor which can't be represented by a series resistor. This is the application note on ferrite beads and gate ringing I read before: https://www.microsemi.com/document-portal/doc_download/14693-eliminating-parasitic-oscillation-between-parallel-mosfets Although it mostly speaks of paralleling mosfet gates and preventing ringing with ferrite beads, it also mentions they work with single mosfets too: "A ferrite bead can also be used with a single MOSFET that is not connected in parallel with any other MOSFETs. The effect is the same; high frequency noise on the gate is blocked, eliminating any tendency for oscillations."
  42. 3 points
    Yesterday was the first really warm summerday in Styria, and it was so much fun being out with the KS16, that I confess I was just "speeding" around, sometimes straight, sometimes slalom, but always with the wind around my ears with an average near maxspeed, and therefore ... ... I can only show fotos taken while riding on the wheel. Near Bruck on the "Murradweg" near Murchannel: A short offroad path at the "Murinsel" (Mur island) in Bruck: Crossing a bike training park where children learn to ride a bicycle and watch traffic signs (I'm sometimes here to teach other interested parties): Now, at the end between Bruck and Pernegg again on the biketrail over the floodplain forests near the Mur shores (one foto with my KS16 posing needs to be included ) :
  43. 3 points
    Yeah, those are the motor phases, 14AWG on the board-side, but seems they've used something thinner in the actual motor-side (16-18AWG?). Didn't bother with trying to setup a camera to record it... Louis has a good (although long) video of the technique, jumping pretty close to where the action happens: I've been looking mostly at the cheaper Chinese combination-stations (hot-air + soldering iron) sold in EU, like Aoyue ( http://www.aoyue.eu/aoyue-soldering-hotair-rework-desoldering-station-preheater-repairing/aoyue-rework-station-multitools-hotair-smt-hotair-soldering-iron-pcb.html?dir=asc&order=price ) and Atten ( http://www.batronix.com/shop/soldering/hot-air-stations/atten/index.html ). Not bad prices, but it's hard to tell whether they're "good enough" or just shit. Especially since I don't know which ones are better, the ones with a pump or a small fan blowing the air. Buying within EU, there should be less hassle with warranty replacements, in case problems occur...
  44. 3 points
    My trouble is that the only way I seem to be able to get below 95Kg is to strip naked. I'm sure that would be too much of a shock for most people!
  45. 3 points
    Whoa looky who's back?! So did my psychic summoning powahs get you all itchy for some forum participation??? Geez Louise better late than never I guess! Now if only I could get that Cloud guy back on... EUC Avengers unite! By the by who's this @The Skinny Unicyclist ? Any relation?
  46. 3 points
    No need to beat around the bush, @Slaughthammer, why not tell us what you really think!?!?
  47. 3 points
    This guy? (in French...) http://jiraichargerchezvous.blogspot.nl/
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    I think when he said Kingsong 1, Free Ride 0 he was referring to himself, not an EUC brand (note his user name is FreeRide). Like you, I was trying to figure out exactly what is FreeRide, and I found in Wikipedia it is a cycling term I was not aware of: Freeride is a discipline of mountain biking closely related to downhill biking and dirt jumping focused on tricks, style, and technical trail features. It is now recognized as one of the most popular disciplines within mountain biking. The term freeriding was originally coined by snowboarders, meaning riding without a set course, goals or rules on natural terrain. In mountain biking, it is riding trail with the most creative line possible that includes style, amplitude, control, and speed. Many in the cycling industry suggest that the Laguna Rads were the first to freeride, that is riding terrain that didn't already have an existing path or network of trails.
  50. 3 points
    A colleague of mine has visited the FastWheel factory to view the 'Ring' in person last week. Apparently the design is a.) not quiet, b.) has a very small battery, c) nor cheap, d) and does not believe the delivered power is anywhere near the 2000W claimed. From what I understand, the Ring, like the Orbit, are both geared designs that use a comparatively high-RPM BLDC motor to turn rotary teeth of the hollow Wheel.