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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/02/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    We've had several cases of attempts to update the firmware from v1.23 (perfect satisfactory & functional) to v1.25 (more problems than fixes) with the board becoming completely unresponsive. Only solution has been to swap out the board. There's now an enough cases to warrant STRONGLY recommending owners to NOT ATTEMPT TO UPDATE to v1.25 on the 1200W KS. Have asked my rep is this is a known problem, but has not been able to confirm—since Tina left getting answers to even the most simple technical question is practically impossible.
  2. 6 points
    14c at max speed. Thought maybe there's a little more speed past them beeps. There is not. There is only concrete. Now i I stay home. That shit hurts like a mother. Thoughts: There is no running out a 20 mph failure wear helmet or die, I think I would've been fucked without mine, my noggin skipped across the ground two or three times as I rolled down the street. Roll. Rolling saved me
  3. 6 points
    And, for the record, here are new photos of my wheel that my friend Todd recently took in San Francisco. I flat blacked the pedals and handle.
  4. 6 points
    The unexpected upside of getting an EUC for your son; he's now asking if he can take the dog for a walk, even when it's raining!
  5. 5 points
    After 5 hours of learning to ride my Ninebot One E+, this is the state my ankles are in: It's so painful to get on and off now that I have made some cheap ankle guards using materials I had at home. These are made from foam sheet that has thin plastic on one side, some Baltic birch plywood and some elastic velcro straps from the dollar store. These are worn on the inner ankles to protect against the constant pressure of the EUC when getting on and off and turning.
  6. 5 points
    Fair enough, but after I also bricked a board trying to update, the risks seem to me to be disproportionately too high to allow a continuation of the failed board experiment without judicious intervention.
  7. 4 points
    Some more pictures from today's ride. Nothing special. Took 2.5 hours of riding, 40% of the 1300 Wh battery, 35 km. Perfect weather.
  8. 4 points
    Notaguru - Go for it, but be careful I'm 63 and like you I rode a regular unicycle when I was a teenager. And like you I wondered if that experience, even though it was long ago, would make learning to ride my Ninebot One E easier, and I have to say I think it has. I was very cautious in the beginning and rode back and forth in a hallway for 5-10 minutes a day for maybe 2 weeks, but after the first couple days I didn't seem to be getting any better. I read somewhere that people recommended learning on grass (to minimize the damage when you fall). I took it out in the back yard and immediately rode the length of the yard with no problem. Wow! I was surprised. After just a couple round trips in the yard I went out on the street (dead end, no traffic) and rode a good half mile on my first "road trip". So in total I probably spent an hour or hour and a half learning to balance before my first street ride and looking back I think I could have done it sooner. I've now put about 250 miles on my Ninebot and have fallen off twice but no injuries, because I don't usually ride fast and both times I "stepped off" and let the wheel crash by itself. Once was on grass after a rain and the wheel fell into a soft spot. Another time my shoulder hit one of the posts holding up an awning at the elementary school across the street (I was using the row of 9 or 10 posts for slalom practice!). I now try to ride 5 or 6 miles at a time through my neighborhood when the weather is nice, which right now is almost every day. Like some others have mentioned, I had trouble learning to get on the darned thing, and that's also the only time I've received any injuries. I always put my right foot on first and jump up with the left, and sometimes my left toe would catch the pedal on the way up and tip the wheel over, and my ankle would scrap against the edge of the pedal. Ouch! I have found that wearing high-top tennis shoes has helped prevent those kinds of injuries and I also like the ankle support they provide.
  9. 4 points
    7805 won't work, it's a 5V regulator and needs something like about 2-3 diode drops (roughly 1.2-2V) higher input voltage (datasheet says 7V) to even work properly. There are 3.3V, 3V and 2.5V LDO ("low dropout", meaning the input voltage won't need to be that much above the regulated output voltage) available. BUT, since the EL-wire seems to draw more current than at least the smaller linear regulators (TO-92 -packaged, typically 100mA max) are able to withstand, you might need a more heavily packaged one. Or use a switching step-down converter, which wastes less power and doesn't heat up as much. Do note that you can't stick a normal voltage regulator directly into a 67.2V pack, it can't handle the voltage. That's just in case you end up going with taking the power from the USB-port. Don't bother with relays, if the lights don't draw amperes of current, a simple power switch (just checking through the switches I have, they're rated between 2 and 10A continuous) or a power mosfet should work for this... If both the EL-wire and the lights need to be behind one button, it requires some circuitry, as the EL-wire inverter seems to turn on/switch stages (on - blinking slow - blinking fast - off) by getting a signal from the switch, so the light circuit would need to be triggered from there also. Don't recall ever seeing a battery configuration like that before... The XT60-plug is likely the discharge-side, but where do all those connectors go, into the mainboard? It's hard to tell from the picture even how many wires are going to the connectors. Since there's only one wire going from one pack to the next, I'd guess the packs themselves are in series, so it might be possible to break them down into lower voltage packs (but that's not probably for the faint of heart). Be careful with the batteries anyway, even if they're "empty", they still pack quite a punch. As for the EL-wires themselves, I took apart the 2 x AA -battery driven unit I have and poked around. There's a few apparently "optional" resistors that are left out (and a place for a diode and larger capacitor on the other side, that weren't there either, saving on costs ). Couldn't identify the chip in the middle (it has marking "6612", but no part having that number had a pinout that made sense with how this circuit is built). Based on http://ch00ftech.com/2012/03/25/el-wire-is-spanish-for-the-wire/ , it might be some small low-cost microcontroller, that's basically just handling the changing between the on-blinking-off -states.This one doesn't have that secondary transistor like the one that ch00ftech took apart, but a few scribblings of the circuit I made into a paper, it looks like it's a different topology than on the one that he had... I didn't try to figure out the circuitry that much, since I don't know what the chip does (at least one pin from it goes straight into the transformer coil, so it's not just to start/excite an analog oscillator there?). On the other side's theres a single PNP SS8550 -transistor (don't know why ch00ftech says it's a P-channel FET?), the transformer coil with center-tapped coil on primary side, and the power button. A "fun" thing I noticed, I first thought that the microswitch is soldered on all four points, and will short the positive input straight into the negative when pressed, but the pin marked as "WTF?!!" is actually unconnected If it weren't, or it somehow gets contact with the surrounding copper, pushing the button would cause the circuit to connect through the blue lines I drew, shorting the positive input straight into negative... But instead, it just pulls the pin 3 of the IC to ground (there's a 10k pullup resistor keeping it high when the switch is not pushed), so that's what switches the state (on -> blinking fast -> blinking slow -> off) when the pin is triggered from high to low. Anyway, the main point was to take some measurements from the damn thing. I first hooked it up to a power supply with overcurrent protection (CC/CV) set at 3V and working the current up from 100mA, so I won't fry anything by accident and to see how much current it draws... seems to be about 195ma (0.195A) at start, and going slightly above 200mA after things warm up. The secondary coil of the transformer puts up quite a hefty voltage. With 3V input, I measured 107V AC RMS with the benchtop-meter, and after knowing it won't blow up my scope front-ends or meters, I then measured closer to 300V peak-to-peak on oscilloscope, the oscillator is running around 1.5kHz. The annoying sound the inverter makes is probably the base frequency resonating in the coil... Yeah, don't touch the output wires... although it probably won't give much current, you'll likely get a good zap at least. On the input side, there's some noise visible, at the same frequency: Probably adding that missing capacitor would filter most of it out... I was using an EL-"tape" (thin, but wide, not actual "wire") as load for the measurements shown, but found out later that using a blue-colored EL-wire that the voltage goes even higher (with 3V input, about 130V RMS / 370V peak-to-peak, but "only" about 100mA of current)... Raising the input voltage from 3V to 3.3V, the voltage went up to 145V RMS / 410Vpp. I didn't want to go higher so I don't break something. The inverter's unregulated, so probably it would self-destruct by driving the voltage to some insane value if driven without load or with higher input voltage (unless the IC there has some sort of protection for that), which wouldn't be a big deal, but risking damage to the scope front-end or my benchmeter is not something I want to try, in case there's some freak high-voltage transient Since it seems that the current varies between different wires and of course lengths, it's probably best to assume that the current can be relatively high (several hundreds of milliamperes, better over- than underestimate, make it a nice 0.5A? ). I have no idea how much current you can pull from the USB-port of the wheel (if using that), but likely at least 0.5A. Can't vouch on that, so if your board fries, don't blame me I'm just a hobbyist on electronics... At least in the case of this inverter, also the output voltage raises fast with input voltage, and I don't know how much input voltage the IC can stand (or what kind yours is anyway), so probably best to keep the input voltage at 3...3.3V max (that's about what two full AA -batteries in series give), I also don't know how much voltage the EL-wires themselves can stand, but they probably burn out faster with higher voltage? They do wear out anyway, so maybe plan the attachment so that you can replace them: On average El Wire brightness will become half as bright after 2800 - 3000 hours running at 2000Hz. This is based on 6 to 8 hours on each day and powered off the rest of the day. A high Hz output from the inverter makes the El Wire brighter but it also shortens the life if it. For example, if an inverter runs at 10,000 Hz EL Wire will become half as bright at about 450 hours. Although, if it's being run at around 1.5-2kHz (my inverter's different than yours, so I don't know what the frequency in yours is), closer to 3000 hours is plenty. You'd either need at least a TO-220 -packaged linear regulator (possibly with a heat-sink) and some filtering capacitors, or a switching buck-converter (there I can't help, designing those is way out of my league, at least at this point) to drop the 5V from the USB port to 3 or 3.3V. I have no idea how good or bad the ebay/aliexpress/whatever cheap converters are, they might work, but again I can't give any guarantees... Other options include a heavy-duty step-down to drop the voltage from the battery directly (but that's up to 67.2V for full battery), so it's the bulkiest and most expensive (at least for better quality) option. Just as an example, probably about the simplest setup with a linear regulator would be something like: The diodes may not even be necessary (I picked 1N4007 just because that's what I've usually used in such ), a fuse might not be a bad idea just in case... I marked the output capacitor (C2) as "100uF or more", simply based on the datasheet recommendations for LT1117: The LT1117 family of regulators requires an output capacitor as part of the device frequency compensation. A minimum of 10μF of tantalum or 50μF of aluminum electrolytic is required. The ESR of the output capacitor should be less than 0.5Ω. Normally, capacitor values on the order of 100μF are used in the output of many regulators to ensure good load transient response with large load current changes. Output capacitance can be increased without limit and larger values of output capacitance further improve stability and transient response. I put D1 there "just in case" a higher voltage transient somehow kicks back from the inverter, although my measurements with the scope didn't show such happening. Probably could be left out as well. As for the D2-diode: Diodes between input and output are not usually needed. The internal diode between the output and input pins of the device can withstand microsecond surge currents of 10A to 20A. Normal power supply cycling can not generate currents of this magnitude. Only with extremely large output capacitors, such as 1000μF and larger, and with the input pin instantaneously shorted to ground can damage occur. A crowbar circuit at the input of the LT1117 in combination with a large output capacitor could generate currents large enough to cause damage. In this case a diode from output to input is recommended So, technically, with low output capacitance, the diode wouldn't be needed. At pure-guess worst-case continuous current of 0.5A, the power dissipation at the U1 (with D1) would be around (5V - 0.7V - 3.3V) * 0.5A = 0.5W. The TO-220 -packaged regulator might work even without a heatsink at that point. Without the D1-diode, the power dissipation goes a bit higher at 0.5A, about 0.85W, in which case a heatsink might already be needed. Either way, adding a heatsink on the thing won't hurt. I don't know how much you know of electronics, if you can't or don't want to build your own circuits on a veroboard or such, it's probably much easier to go with a ready-made switching buck-converter. If you want your (separate) lights to turn on with the EL-wires, then you're likely going to have to build a circuit from separate components. I can help with that, but won't start designing one right now
  10. 4 points
    I would guess that depends on the person... I have smashed on the ground with 33kmh....that gave me more respect from higher speeds, and let me see that wearing safety gear when driving is necessary! But i still like riding fast a lot more than slow :-)
  11. 4 points
    My take on this might be different to most here. I think it's a bad situation if a lot more people take up this hobby. When it remains a relatively rare and niche hobby or mode of transport, the law, the media and the public leave us alone to enjoy it. As soon as everyone buys one it's a problem, because "everyone" includes the retards. And they are the ones who will cause the accidents, the fires, the injuries and the negative public perception. The example I provide is drones. I am an avid RC model flyer. I used to fly quadcopters since before they were called drones and when you had to build them from scratch. I enjoyed the Phantoms and the small racing quads when they came along too. No one had a problem with these RC aircrafts in the early days. Then they went mainstream and the retards got hold of them and the media used them as another fear-driven profit generator. The result is that drones are perceived as a dangerous, privacy invading nuisance to society. I no longer fly them after numerous negative comments and evil looks, and I stick to RC planes. Other examples are laser pointers, psychadelic plants and research chemicals. Things that are useful and/or interesting but have some inherent risk, can become demonised, regulated and even illegal once popularity puts them in the hands of the retards. I would prefer EUCs and MiniPros to remain popular enough that companies are incentivised to improve designs and release new products periodically, while still remaining to be a niche enough hobby that the public rarely give these devices a second thought. I don't want to encourage many people to take this up.
  12. 4 points
    Just thinking out loud, but wheel wobble in EUC’s can be explained in the same way that we think of bicycle instability. In my metaphor, mechanical trail (normal trail) is the perpendicular distance between the projection of the CoG onto the ground and the point of contact between the front wheel and the ground. This latter point is actually a patch (a small ellipse) whose size varies with the inflation pressure of the tire. Trail in bicycles or motorcycles is always designed into the geometry behind the contact patch (in the direction of motion) because when it is forward of the patch, the bike is highly unstable. EUCs don’t have a fixed steering geometry like bicycles, and therefore mechanical trail effects are entirely determined by the projection of the CoG on the ground (forward or back of the contact patch). Mechanical trail is one of the most important variables in determining the handling characteristics of motorcycles, bicycles and (in my estimation) EUCs. In bicycles and motorcycles, larger trails force the bikes in into stable, straight-line motion, because the rear wheel drags the rear part of the front wheel along the axis defined by the front and rear contact patches. For that reason, larger trails are favored by inexperienced riders because they are more “stable” (at least in a straight line). Think Harley-D. In theory, stability increases as the computed deviation from the ideal path during steering action is reduced, and thus a trail of zero is ideal because it eliminates: 1. influence of the position of the center of pressure of wind forces coming from the side, and 2. wheel flop effect. What I think riders on this forum are experiencing as “wobble” is wheel flop by another name – a steering behavior in which a bicycle or EUC tends to turn more than expected due to the front wheel "flopping" over with any steering input right or left. Wheel flop is caused by the lowering of the front or back end of a EUC as the pegs are rotated away from the "straight ahead" position. In wheel flop, the force due to gravity will tend to cause rotation to continue with increasing rotational velocity and without additional rider input on the pegs. Once the pegs are turned, the rider needs to apply torque to the handlebars to bring them back to the straight-ahead position and bring the front end back up to the original height. The rotational inertia of the wheel will lessen the severity of the wheel flop effect because it results in opposing torque being required to initiate or accelerate changing the direction of the wheel. Increasing wheel flop increases the torque required to bring the EUC back to the straight-ahead position and increase the EUCs tendency to veer suddenly off the line of a curve. Also, increasing the weight borne by the front wheel of the EUC, either by increasing the mass of the EUC, rider and cargo or by changing the weight ratio to shift the center of mass forward, will increase the severity of the wheel flop effect. Increasing the rotational inertia of the front wheel by increasing the speed of the EUC and the rotational speed of the wheel will tend to counter the wheel flop effect. I suspect, more fundamentally, the contrasts we see in EUC performance between say a Gotway Monster (22” diameter & 70 lbs) and a Gotway Luffy (10” diameter & 16 lbs) are basically the result wheel flop. A certain amount of wheel flop would generally be desirable, but an EUC with too little wheel flop would be sluggish in its reactions to turning inputs on the pegs; one with too much wheel flop would tend to veer off its line at low and moderate speeds.
  13. 4 points
    Thanks! Our three houses are right next to each other and yes we have lots of lawn to cut. I do enjoy cutting grass as it is relaxing to me. They pay $125-150 per cutting so more like $500-$600/month. Their house sites directly next to a church parking lot so they have planted trees to block it. That may be their Achilles heel when it comes to selling the house. The little red rec button is screaming at you! Yes I do place the protective back on the gimbal after each flight. A red ribbon Velcroed to the cover would work.
  14. 3 points
    My new One Wheel Build
  15. 3 points
    No problem whatsoever. Happy to help. For starters, if you want the EL Lighting ON all the time, you can completely bypass the extra switch and just connect the Module directly to the USB port wiring. This way, they EL will be on every time the wheel is on. Since I only have 820Wh battery, and I like to ride LONG distances, I don't like to pull from the battery unless I decide to. Is that an extra Power Button, or the original Power Button that is still being used for the wheel? I have not tested the Pins on that switch to see if you can use two pins for another source and device. You could put a tester to it and find out. But, if all the pins are currently being used, you may not be able to use it and may need a secondary switch. IF you are using a second switch, take the GND from the Module to one side of the New Power Button. Take another wire from the other side of the power button to the GND wire on the USB Port. Take the RED + wire all the way from the Module to the USB Port. This will switch ON/OFF the Negative Side between the USB Port and the Module. That will power the Module on and off. On the Module, Ground SHOULD be black and Positive should be Red. But, if in doubt, you can open the Module and verify which wires are used. (That's what I did to be sure) In my drawing above, the wires coming out of the BOTTOM of the Module are the EL connections. I soldered mine, so you can ignore those if you are using a Y Adapter. You only need to deal with the power coming into the top of the Module.
  16. 3 points
    I'm sure you could use a USB Y splitter of sorts to get a switch into the mix. Or make one up. I wired direct, so I just tapped into the USB wire, leaving my USB port in place for a phone emergency. You could always buy one of these and tear it apart and replace the switch with the round replacement. Or just cut a USB Extension Cable in half and wire in the switch. Might be cheaper.
  17. 3 points
    I did a horrible wiring job on this. I was tired and rushed it a LOT. Don't imitate my poor wiring. Some day I MIGHT go back and clean it up. I just used wire Electrical Tape and parts I had laying around. Everything is soldered, but I'll install more plugs if I go back to this. Here's how I wired it: Here is the Switch: Here's the Splice into the USB Port wires: Here is the wire running up to the switch White/Blue: And here is the EL Module Double Sided Taped inside. Please don't leave a tangled web of wires like I have... :
  18. 3 points
    Another 14C outleaned (admittedly at 20 mph so I guess you can't blame the wheel).... Did you have wrist guards/gloves or any other protection besides the helmet? What are your injuries? Did you have an old firmware? From what I gathered the new 1.25 has better safety/would probably stop you from doing what you did. Well, get better and thanks for the "experiment". It's funny how either everything goes right or you have catastrophic failure with EUCs, but there are no intermediate steps. I have to admit I only understood this after a (thankfully slow) crash too. It's just very unintuitive that "working oneself up" to crashes isn't really possible and you can't test the waters.
  19. 3 points
    Hey Guys, sorry about being late to respond. I'm now available to open my wheel and do photos. I'll try to get them today. For the power source, I simply spliced into the USB port for power. For the TWO Light Strips, I soldered two plugs onto the Power Module. They also have Y connectors already made that would be a better option, but I didn't want to wait on shipping. I also soldered the EL strip for the second side myself. It would be MUCH easier to just buy two separate strips and cut them to length and leave the plug intact because soldering to the EL wire is a pain. It's SUPER small work. If you want to do the soldering yourself, look to YouTube for tutorials on how to do that. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Black-Splitter-Cable-Connector/dp/B00GYV5GXU/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1493740862&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=el+lighting+splitter Here's what I bought for the EL wire. I ended up changing out the included power supplies for a single one that works MUCH better and uses the power from the USB Circuit. I kept burning up the stock modules when I plugged them into the USB Port. This mod uses roughly 2 feet of EL wire for each side. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JGGNRVM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here is the power module I ended up using. I cut off the plug on the end and soldered it onto the USB wire. A plug would have been a better idea. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3UQT40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here is the power switch I used, but I would recommend a larger 16mm switch instead. This one is too small. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D4HE79U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 16mm switch options: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=16mm+switch I'll try to get photos in a bit.
  20. 3 points
    The only info I've been told is that the Inmotion Electric Unicycles will NOT be updated until the fall at the earliest.
  21. 3 points
    If the KS App & QC were better I'd unhesitatingly recommend the 14D. But it's completely stupid requiring new (non-technical) Users required to make permission changes to Android because KS are too lazy to add a checkbox during compilation. There's a whole slew of minor niggles I have with this Wheel that's preventing me from investing in an order. Range is going to be less than the V5F+, the 14D only has 32 cells as against Inmotion's 40.
  22. 3 points
    Really great job! Something for me to learn. Still forgetting to press "rec" when flying BTW, do you keep the gimbal lock on between the flights? Forgot to take it once already and got "gimbal overload"-message. Will create some "remove before flight" ribbon or something... It just magical to fly! Stunning results even in my amateur hands!
  23. 3 points
    Yeah, I meant that as a joke I am using a backpack often when I commute. But like it best to ride without things on my back. Always hated the rucksacks though... So I can understand @Pezman and others playing with the bottle holder idea. minipro have some hidden screws under the "ninebot" plate/logo that could be used to mount either a bottle holder or whatnot.
  24. 3 points
    Yep, I'm on Ubuntu. I'm guessing that's the inverse color shortcut? There's one on Mac too but I don't recall the shortcut (used to confuse teachers in computer labs with it!). What I do right now is use a Chrome plugin called deluminate when my heads really acting up. I may try building a Stylish theme since sadly there doesn't seem to be any pre-built for the forum software, or if there are any they're listed under the specific forums URL without mentioning the software. I moderate a few subs on Reddit where I in part manage the CSS, so if the opportunity does come up to add themes and creating them ourselves is the best option (ie, free), then I can give color advice. My subs use colors based partially on flux where the concept is to reduce certain wavelengths which reduces eye strain and helps maintain the circadian rhythm. Basically the same idea behind why newer phones are including a software blue light filter that adjusts throughout the day. edit - Ah! One question answered! You can do multiple user selectable themes, per this support page.
  25. 3 points
    Camelbak? Or this one?
  26. 3 points
    Do you have any photos of the broken areas? I wonder whether some acetone and Lego might help in repairing the areas. Maybe bonding in a small metal washer, nut or thin metal "keeper" with a hole drilled through it would work. There are a few ABS acetone repair videos online.
  27. 3 points
    It's amazing how we trash and praise our Gotway. Love hate relationship. Lol. It amazing what you can get away with when you a have a nich market product. The minute someone makes the same performance with better quality a functional app and an up to date website. They are toast. Disclosure. I ride an MCM4 HS every day.
  28. 3 points
    Unless I'm missing something, it looks like Maryland Law officially uses the term “Electric personal assistive mobility device” or “EPAMD," just like most other states, and they are defined as "two nontandem" wheeled like most other states do. It looks like technically electric unicycles are not included in the law. Looks like @dmethvin got lucky! Here's a link to the appropriate section: http://mgaleg.maryland.gov/2017rs/statute_google/gtr/21-101.pdf
  29. 3 points
    Hi guys, Another pic, I wonder how many Kwh we consumed that day (post your guess)
  30. 2 points
    Thats what i mean with my comments above :-)....and how a mosquito gets to an elephant...."a lot of customers"??? :-) Here in Europe i would guess KS france and especially Ks Germany-quite good in wheel technics- sold the AY in high numbers, and there was never ever something heard/told about "1.25 bricks board"....
  31. 2 points
    Hi, So the MCM4 PRO is out, the pic is from wheelworld, the sweden dealer. - 12 mosfet motherboard - still the same motor as the MCM4 V2 HS - 84V 520Wh battery - weight is not very different from the MCM4 V2 520Wh - 39 kph max speed (should be 35kph real speed) - ACM pedals The shell is exactly the same as the original MCM4, so no trolley :/
  32. 2 points
    Panorama - ACM in front of a lake in front of some mountains. Trying a no-account image host so hopefully it works.
  33. 2 points
    There is strong stuff going on over here that I need to read further! I'll soon be installing a 12v ventilation fan in the ACM but the voltage regulator I purchased is 60 v to 12v. I may just use a rechargeable 12 v battery pack. I connected the fan to the pack and it ran for an entire day.
  34. 2 points
    Nice work, I have a tendency to forget the heat shrinks far too often, and then have to desolder the wire and start over Personally, I use a bit heavier gauge (as in, larger) soldering tip for the bigger connectors, and usually apply heat much longer... but the main thing is you get good connections. In case you sometimes work with "deeper" connectors (ie. where the "cup" the wire goes into is deeper), this trick works well ("preform/pre-filling"):
  35. 2 points
    Still the other way around... there should be no sparks if the capacitors are charged to the same voltage as the battery packs, that's what the anti-spark connectors do, they charge the capacitors over a higher resistance before the actual low-resistance connection is made. The discharging was made to make sure that your multimeter wouldn't get damaged when measuring the resistance.
  36. 2 points
    My new XT60 connectors arrived and the male and female ends are now soldered in place. Still waiting on the spark arrestor connectors.
  37. 2 points
    Yip, i have the earlier version...but i guess @abinder3 has the AY+ and also running 1.25? But whatever: Guess you will have more than one "closed phone while...." incident, so good to have such warnings! Thanx again!
  38. 2 points
    It seems quite easy (smart) the way you set it up. So basically i would just open up my msuper unscrew the female USB plug next to the power button and push it down by the cables below connect this male USB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3UQT40/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 into the female USB plug connect this y connector https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Black-Splitter-Cable-Connector/dp/B00GYV5GXU/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1493740862&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=el+lighting+splitter to the small EL connector from the male USB device from the first link then connect the EL lights themselves to the Y splitter connector but where does the power button come into this? I want to screw in the power button(powering the el lights) to where the USB used to be so it's easy to turn on and off and that way i would have to drill holes in the body of my msuper.
  39. 2 points
    I found a bug on the firmware for the motor control, now the motor runs well on both directions. I tested with 3 different motors I have. I put the firmware running on the MicroWorks 30km/h motor. I measured the hall sensors signal and at 62V the motor did run at ~29km/h. At the battery max voltage, should be near the 32.7km/h I did measured with original firmware:
  40. 2 points
    Wow, sounds scary. Is it true what Speedy Feet Ian says, that after your first bad fall you never want to go super fast again?
  41. 2 points
    There are much more EUC in Paris (250 sometimes) meetings ! The Monster tire is bigger than the gotway mcm2s you see in front This morning, a long trip in the city & forest, 72.7km, 50% battery remaining with my Monster
  42. 2 points
    I think you have to turn the wheel off and back on for the changes to take effect. There is no way you would feel that setting 9 is no different than 1, there is a huge difference. Search for the youtube video from Ian at speedyfeet where he tests out the different settings. You can actually see how much the pedals tilt in the softest setting and Ian states that this is barely rideable due to the softness. He calls 9 the "joke mode"...
  43. 2 points
    Firmware remains unchanged. Only user settings like bluetooth pairing/password, name and "user behaviour"-settings etc. will be reset. Total milage and battery information will not be touched.
  44. 2 points
    I believe the USB port has 5 volts on it. You could wire a voltage regulator using. 7805 chip and one or two resistors. The resistors value is picked so you can change the 5 volts to 3 volts. If i have time i can draw something over the weekend. Otherwise @esaj is pretty good with circuits also. Uouvneed to find the cable that goes to the USB port and splice the 5vdc and ground wires with two wires. I am sure 24 gauge is plenty. The 5v and ground would connect to your 7805 regulator made to put out 3 volts. Mi think you wanted to use the main light to also turn this one. That would be more involved. You would have to build another circuit. There are these mini relays in a chip you could connect the main headlight to the coil part od the DIP chip mini relay that would have a contact on the other side where you would then feed the 3 volts to the led bar. Maybe @esaj will make the drawing.
  45. 2 points
    The wheel will intentionally give wrong voltage information to any app. Afaik, this is because Gotway were too lazy/incapable to change the programming of their app (initially meant for 67V) which reads the battery percentage by looking at the voltage. Instead they changed the firmware or whatever is needed to send wrong voltage information so they need not modify their app For comparison, my ACM 1300 shows around 65,85V in wheellog at 100% battery.
  46. 2 points
    Nothing you can do "in software" (how the wheel behaves). Apart from the fact that the 80% is not battery related, if you generalize that to "protect the wheel from self damage rather than the rider", there's literally no better option. Either you crash with an undamaged wheel, or the wheel will even speed you up a bit to keep the balance, then it breaks anyways and you have a damaged wheel, and you still crash (at a slightly higher speed). So the unintuitive but hard truth is, this is the best option you have. If you overpower the wheel, you must crash (unless you can compensate quickly, but nothing the wheel can do) and there's no point in taking the wheel down with you. All safety measures must concern never allowing overpowering the wheel. If it happens, it's too late. -- Good points about the speeds. But the manufacturers lie like there's no tomorrow (see: crazy promised ranges). Also, turns out it is better to think in terms of power output/wheel utilization/percentage of what is maximally possible than in terms of speed. 20 km/h on 10% incline will need more power than 40 on flat pavement (a guess). So speeds really mean nothing. Instead of a speed meter, every wheel should show a "percentage" of how far you are away from where the weakest link can no longer keep up. I found the default speed beeps are a good indication of what should be safe on flat road.
  47. 2 points
    For showing off: 00~ 00~ 00~ 00~ 00~ \ | | _| _/ /\ /| /| / / \ \ / / / \ \ \ | / O O O O O For playing it safe: 00~ 00~ 00~ 00~ | | _| 00~ | /| /| | _| /| / / // __| /_ \\ \ \ \ O O O O O
  48. 2 points
    French meet up Eroue of the 30 april 2017, 124 participants.
  49. 2 points
    Maiden voyage with new/repaired ACM. Just some southern Bavarian random fields etc. with good weather and mountain view (view the panoramas in "full size" for more details).
  50. 2 points
    Hi, Took out the Monster in the forest on some trails, a nice 2h tour, very joyful
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