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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 28 points
    Today I received my Monster (I was expecting it next Monday). Shipped from Speedyfeet on Sunday to California. Can't beat those delivery times. So you can see me with my Monster and 1300wh ACM that I got 3 days ago. Two new wheels within a few days - I'm not sure what to do Before I continue with my Monster ride observations I feel that I need to make this statement: I hereby formally bow down to the Gotway Gods Ian (Speedyfeet) had pre-charged the Monster so when I took it out of the box (and gave myself a small hernia in the process) I had an 80% charge. That meant only one thing - an immediate test ride. I used my existing old Gotway app to configure it: 1st & 2nd alarms off and tilt-back off. It's nice that I've been able to use my original Gotway app to configure all of these wheels. And the Wheellog app (and Pebble watch connection) work perfectly with these new wheels. When I climbed aboard (an apt description) and started riding I thought to myself, "what have I gotten myself into"? This thing is a beast and when you first start, it feels totally unwieldy. Turning as you do with a normal wheel does nothing - it keeps going straight. Turning the Monster is all about weigh shifting and hips to shoulders. I will say that once you get use to this way of turning it is a piece of cake. I can literally turn with the same agility as my ACM, but the body movements are very different. The problem can be that as you're riding and suddenly need to turn you apply your normal turning techniques and the Monster just ignores you So after a 25 mile ride today my knees and lower legs are hurting because I kept falling back into my old ways. Clearly this will improve. But I did ride 25 miles today. After about an hour everything was really clicking and it no longer felt unwieldy. I'm probably going to run out of superlatives trying to describe my riding today. I rode a river trail that I enjoy, a park with lots of dirt/sand trails, and sidewalks in town. The Monster eats anything in its way. I'm serious. I rode over bumps, thick mud, sand, whatever. It just takes it and doesn't toss you around. Deep ruts in the trails? - the Monster laughed at them. Hitting some of them in my ACM would have thrown me from the wheel. I like to carve when I ride and that was very enjoyable with the Monster. Weaving in and out of obstacles on the sidewalks was easy. I climbed a couple of very steep inclines and there was no problem. Feels like my MSuper - you have to really lean into it and have faith that it's not going to dump you. My ACM on the other hand climbs inclines much easier. Acceleration and braking feels like the MSuper, but a tad more sluggish. Today I had one hard brake that I had to apply to avoid missing my intended turn. I managed the brake and turn successfully but it was a near miss. I think it's best to plan your brakes well ahead of time with this wheel I must say that I think the Monster has the potential to be a dangerous wheel . Why? Speed. Prior to the Monster I felt that I had the fastest wheels available (ACM and MSuper). I typically ride my ACM between 17 and 20 mph, sometimes going up to 22 for short periods. Feels very fast. The Monster? It laughs at 20. Seriously! For half my ride today I would catch myself looking at my watch (Pebble) to see that I was going 22mph! For awhile I was going 25mph and here's the thing; it didn't feel dangerously fast. 25! I was feeling very comfortable going 22mph whereas on the ACM it feels like you're pushing it. The Monster is so stable and has so much reserve power that it's a pure joy to ride fast. I was riding 20mph on some trails! I never heard the 3rd alarm today. So I have to say if you love going fast and eating up any road or trail in your way you will love the Monster. I think it's the most amazing wheel ever produced. I'm very serious. No, I wouldn't recommend it as your only wheel because lets face it, it's a beast. But in the context of trail & street riding it's amazingly fun. I can't wait to take it up into the mountains this weekend. I'll be posting a video review and ride video sometime in the next week.
  2. 14 points
    A quick spin on the new Rockwheel GT16 @captainwells just received his new GT16 and was gracious enough to allow me to ride it for 6-7 miles. Periodically we ride the Southern California beach together and as I was riding out to meet him he said that he got his Rockwheel GT16 (ordered in early March) and was wondering if I wanted to see it. "Are you kidding me" So I dropped my 1300wh ACM off at his house and took the GT16 for a nice long ride down the Strand and associated paths. He rode his KingSong 16S (which I got to also ride on the return leg). These are my initial observations. I, like many people, really like the looks of this wheel. It may not be as practical in less sunny climates as Southern California due to the very exposed wheel. But it has the cool factor going on. As previously observed, the slide out mud guard also rubs on this wheel, so it appears to be designed that way. If you slide it halfway in it no longer rubs. The pedals are not floppy (@Rehab1 will like this), but they are small. On the other hand during my 7 mile ride my feet felt comfortable. My feet feel less comfortable when riding 7 miles on my KS14C. They have a soft rubber layer (not coating) that was half attached on one of the pedals. Maybe that contributes to the comfort level. But I suspect they might be very slippery when wet. Again, no problemo in Southern California Also as mentioned elsewhere, the two rubber pads are not attached on the top. They flop away from the wheel easily. Very odd. We can't see what purpose leaving them not attached could be. But they are very comfortable on the legs. My only reference for this wheel is the ACM. The GT16 weighs substantially less and looks much smaller. Yet it is a 16 inch wheel and the tire is just as wide as the ACM. I did observe that the tire tread is much less aggressive than the ACM, which isn't particularly aggressive. Relating it to bicycles, the tire looks more like a road tire (smooth tread in the middle). The power button is under the handle and below the surface of the soft top plastic. So it's fully water proof. It's location is a good thing because like many other early wheels, it turns on and off instantly at the press of the button. So you wouldn't want to accidentally bump the switch while you were riding. Most other wheels require you to press and hold for a second or two before they turn on or off. Now the fun part, how does it ride? Fast, very fast. And extremely nibble. I have to say, I loved riding this wheel. It feels like it has all the oomph (that's a technical term) of the ACM, but since it's lighter, it feels like a faster accelerator. The ACM is a 'dense' wheel and sticks to the pavement, making it feel like a very stable wheel. The GT16 does not feel like a stable wheel, but in a very good way. It handles like a 14 inch wheel. But here's the thing, and I'm not sure why this should be, but it feels much smoother than a comparable nimble wheel. When I rode the KS16S on the return it also felt very nimble, but was noticeably less controllable than the GT16. It's very responsive (no pedal dipping). Those of you who don't like the relative softness of the Gotway wheels will love the GT16. I do. We rode to the end of the beach path where there's a very steep path to the upper parking lots. It's a good test. The GT16 flew up the hill. And since there's not a lot of history with this wheel I wasn't trying to really push it. But I was able to accelerate up the hill and it felt very perky in the process. Much perkier than the ACM. We'll have to take the GT16 into the mountains to really test it's raw power, but my impression is that it may out perform the ACM. Of course I have no idea whether it's prone to overheating, or whether it's reliable. But I really like riding this wheel - it's a blast. There's one oddity that @captainwells first observed and you may be able to hear it in the video. The wheel emits the typical whine that you expect from these powerful wheels, and my impression is that it's a lower pitched whine compared to the Gotway. But, in addition to the whine there is a very noticeable crackling sound. The best analogy that we can come up with is the cracking sound that you hear from high tension power lines. We joked that we hoped that there weren't a bunch of sparks going on inside the wheel I have to say that now I really want to buy this wheel. But I'm married, so you know where this is going. I have four really nice wheels, none of which I would want to swap for the GT16. So somehow I have to subtly purchase it without making her think that I've lost my mind Does anyone really need 5 very nice wheels (I'm looking at you @captainwells)? Of course @captainwells has a lot more time on the wheel than I do, and he can talk about the app and such things. So if you have more questions he may chime in. I may let him break it in for a few weeks, and if it doesn't explode (that crackling sound) I'll most likely be pulling the trigger
  3. 11 points
    This is actually my doing. I've been talking and working directly with my representative and his team for the past couple of months. But I've only been talking about it within dbfrese's thread on his efforts in Arizona. I will definitely keep everyone on here up to date on the process especially when/if I get to ride inside the Texas State Capitol.
  4. 10 points
  5. 10 points
    It drives me crazy that every time KS makes an improvement to the pedal design, it's physically incompatible with the previous pedal support arm. Examining the original KS 14/18 grooved pedals, the follow on KS16 design with rubber surface & the latest grippy type, there's a different bracket shape which seems completely arbitrary. Could be wrong, but how hard can it be to make the slots align up from one type to the next.... Morning vent completed!
  6. 7 points
    Hi guys, here is an old pic of our happy French riders
  7. 7 points
    Hello all, I've been involved with Solowheel since late summer 2016, but I've had a lot on my shoulders and haven't had much time to be active in these forums like I used to be. I'm going to try to change that. Currently I'm spending most of my time working on the retail/service/community concept locally here in Seattle. It keeps me pretty busy, but I'd like to start reaching out to the online EUC community more. Specific things like future product development, I won't be able to comment on unless I am given direct permission, but I recognize that many of you have been kept in the dark for some time now, so I'll do my best to shed some light on things.
  8. 7 points
    Here's something that'll make you feel better.I was out riding my newly enhanced (940wh) KS-16 since I just received it 2 days ago after having to leave it at the Hong Kong airport last Oct. due to the Einsteins working the Air Canada counter not allowing me to check a batteryless wheel on the plane. So Friday I decided to hit Starbucks and Home depot on my long lost wheel and was on my way back home doing 10-12 mph on the sidewalk.The next thing I know,bam.The wheel stops dead and me and my mocha frapp are horizontal on the sidewalk.I survived with nothing more than a tiny scrape on the right elbow and a bruise to my ego,however the frapp wasn't so lucky.This was all due to one doorstop sized rock laying right in the middle of the sidewalk which I some how failed to see.So cheer up and keep on rollin' 'cause we all be a fallin now and then.
  9. 6 points
    Here is that it looks like and some of what i had to go though.. lol
  10. 6 points
    I never hear the whine anymore I just wrapped up riding the new Rockwheel, many miles. It has a nice whine too, but it's more deep throated. Film at 11
  11. 6 points
    New Ks18s Information for speed: Speed after normal KS unlocking procedere: 40kmh! Speed allowed after 1000Km ( in words: Thousand) ..... 50kmh! This Full speed is allowed down to 40% batterie....if that percentage is reached a speed reducement sets in, which gets more by more depleting batterie...i dont have exact numbers for that..... I guess with this much kilometers before max speed is allowed KS wants to be sure to have a very experienced rider on the Ks18s.. Otherwise same. info as before...new board, new motor, 1500Watt, speach or beep warning like ks16 etc etc.... This 50kmh may sound silly, but is a info from a official KS description of KS18s - for pre-orders of their sellers.... Now it even worries me more that they did not design a 14d/16 like shell for the 18....as that would be a sales magnet with that abilities!
  12. 6 points
    but, but, but ... it's 2017 ... and silly beepers using sort of morse code to differentiate alarms is 1917 tech ... you're flat on your face still counting beeps/sec ... the answer: more silly beepers???
  13. 6 points
    @Hunka Hunka Burning Love Wheel Intervention: 1) open the wrong side, the one that have a Battery and nothing more, i unplugged and re-plug all connectors that i found,need to say that all feel very loose, maybe you can advise me if i can/should reinforce the connectors with tape or silicone. 2) Then i went to the side where the Main Board is and same procedure passing as well to engine new connectors and see if they where all tight, wheel still didnt work at this point. When i got to the connections from all the cables to the main board... the one that comes from the engine with the sensors if i touch it the wheel would gain balance. So i think that made the trick i just pressed the connector all the way in (despite all that silicone stuff that makes resistance on opposite way). Tried again and working like a charm. Tests: Did some rides on my backyard, heat check, gravel check, leaning check, acceleration check.... all at slow speed, after that when to the woods, made small jumps, passed on roots, accelerate fast and brake fast (feels smoother to fall in the woods, was also using my Motocross gear). everything looked be working fine. Yesterday pushed the wheel for a second until 47km/h and it went fine... just very scary, with the thought that if it switch off now i will not enjoy the pain. Maintenance Planned: So far everything is ok, hope to keep this way, and decided that every 100km, might be a good idea to open the wheel and check everything again.
  14. 6 points
    Yes indeed , I use it every day , KS18A , 1200w 1360wh , will modify it today adding extra batteries ontop and a power plug , longest trip in 1 day was 70 km
  15. 5 points
    I have yet to purchase a first EUC, but I have owned a LOT of electronics. I usually buy used (don't want to suffer depreciation) and always buy what I want when I want. If it were me, I would NOT get a battery for the old NineBot, mainly because it is outdated, and as you note, a new machine with updated tech and features is not that much more. Given the option I will always buy the latest and greatest rather than renew or repair my old tech. From the financial side the course of action I would take on the numbers. - Buy a new machine, the one you want. - Sell the old Ninebot, with full disclosure about the battery getting tired, but at a severe discount to someone looking to get into a first machine, for example. If you get $200 for it, that's $200 applied toward the new better more functional machine. - Also keep in mind that generally you never get the money back that you put into repairs, upgrades, or maintenance (I consider a new battery a maint. item, not a repair). In other words, if you listed the NineBot for sale at some point and said "New battery 200 miles ago," people won't care, they still want the EUC at a good price. Paid $270 for a battery, that's your problem, they think. - Have to take into account that although getting a new battery, the unit is getting old (and worn out). I would not install a new battery on a EUC getting older by the day. This may matter to some prospective buyers who will ask "When did you get this?" When you say "three years ago," for example, many buyers will move on because that sounds like a really old machine. And if you reveal it has 1,000 miles on it, to most that sounds like it needs a proper burial, not a new battery. Bonus Tip: Where you can make LOTS of money, don't sell the entire unit. Disassemble it down to the last bolt. Then list individual parts on eBay. Since this is the Ninebot and the company seems to be dropping support, that may make parts all the more valuable. I can assure you that you will get double to quadruple the money realized on a sale of the entire unit. - Buy the new unit, enjoy it, and take your time selling the Ninebot parts on eBay or the Forums.
  16. 5 points
    Although a dated post I have some timeless shipping tips (experience gained by being on eBay since 1998). A few times over the years I have sold large vintage electronics on eBay and had to ship them (usually NYC). Some tips: - Use a very large box for shipping. The bigger the box the more padding you can use. - Make sure to use padding on all sides. Since this is more a pancake shape, your packing will be more like a clam shell. - Use two plastic trash bags. Put the naked EUC into one bag. Seal that bag tight. Use the other bag to enclose the EUC and packing. The reason for this is to protect the machine from water, rain, or even cigarette smoker damage. Considering the value I would use three to four bags. - Using your cell (mobile) take many pics of the sold EUC (including with it on and a video of you riding it), the packing material, and the EUC all packed up. If you have a current newspaper take pics with it in the background. (Yeah, just like proof of life when paying ransom). This is to support an insurance claim. Tip: If you have an original receipt or proof of purchase, all the better, but that's not necessary to make a claim. - Take a pic of the box sealed with tape and the address label. - When insuring do NOT insure for the selling price, in a way "over insure" so you can get your money and expenses back. I insure for what it would cost me to replace the item damaged or lost. - Before shipping check your shipping company's web page on making an insurance claim. See what they require in terms of proof so you have everything ready in the event you need to make a claim. (Of course save your shipping receipt, copy of the mailing label, and your pics. Keep all this in one spot in your house. Do this out of habit so you don't have to spend hours looking for the stuff later.) - Mark on all sides with felt pen or labels "FRAGILE." You can also mark "this end up." Sometimes I apply stickers that say "THIS END UP." - You can use your computer and MS Word to make your own labels. Apply to the box with clear tape. - I like to send the buyer copies of my pics showing the item carefully packed. This is helpful in deterring a buyer from claiming false damage so he can work you for a discount. If he thinks you have your sh*t together he won't try to pull something. - Like others suggested, visit your local electronics store, or even someone who sells appliances. If asked nicely they will let you pull out from recycle all kinds of quality packing foam. - Do NOT ever ever ever NEVER use those packing peanuts (aka "popcorn") That stuff is useless to perform a quality packing job. - Tape on the bag containing the EUC a sign that says "DO NOT USE BLADED DEVICE TO OPEN" - again, you don't want them slashing the tire or case, blaming you, then asking for a discount. - Repeat: The bigger the box the better. Don't try to get a box where you are trying to shape it to the EUC. A large rectangle box works well. - I don't know about your area, but here in San Francisco, California UPS has the best rates for shipping large packages. Our USPS has the highest rates. - Of course, be careful of scammers. Make sure you have cash in hand, or wait until you have cash in hand, before even thinking about shipping something. Scammers are everywhere so be careful. end
  17. 5 points
    Maybe you're missing something from your summoning ritual. Do you usually do anything else than think of the person(s)? Chicken entrails? Runes drawn in virgin blood? Magic mushrooms? Chinese from that weird place where you got food poisoning?
  18. 5 points
    Just chiming in about the Scorpion since I've now spend a decent amount of time (2 weeks) riding one all around Seattle as my daily driver. While the design is not my favorite visually, ergonomically, it's very good. Like the Xtreme, it has nice large pedals that have a slight angle to let your feet sink into comfortably. The body has a more outward curve so it allows more play and maneuverability with less leg lock-in while at the same time spreading out the pressure against your legs and you feel absolutely no pressure points while riding. The only other wheel I've ridden that feels better when ridden is the Xtreme. Performance - well, if you haven't ridden a Solowheel, especially a newer one, then you're not really going to fully understand how fundamentally different they ride compared to anything else. This is not a slam to the competition, as many of these issues are trade-offs. To write it off as "soft" is to miss the added dimension this style of ride offers. It's nothing like the soft mode manufacturers like KS, GW, NB offer in app. Think of it like a tight spring that reacts extremely quickly. You can flick your ankles and feel it. In the newest version of firmware it has been tuned for maximum stability for handling bumps and hill climbing, but still offering just the right amount of tension in that "spring" to lean with you when you want it to - like braking. It's intelligent enough to adjust on the fly as your speed changes and the whole experience is very fluid and stable. The overall effect of this style of firmware is that the rider becomes very casual and relaxed with their riding stance and style. It feels like the wheel is a part of you as opposed to trying to stay balanced on top of a tiny little flat platform. This is a huge deal to me, personally. With the amount of times I spend mounting, dismounting, dodging, power breaking, this is where Solowheel shines. All these high speed performance EUCs feel like you are driving in 5th gear all the time in comparison. Also notable, it's now faster with no more artificial early speed tilt back. I clocked 13mph, but I'm unsure where the limit actually is because I don't really like to push limits like that. Slower than the speed demon EUCs, yes, but for a versatile city commuter, it doesn't feel held back. Hill climbing is good, and my commute makes for a proper test. No issues there. Range - well, this one is obvious. This version is not for long range commuters! But for those who don't need range, it is nice to have a light weight wheel that doesn't feel bulky. And for air travelers, you can easily check this as baggage without a hassle - this is a legitimate reason for having a smaller battery pack, but I do look forward to more options for those who don't need to fly with their wheel. Features - the headlight is a welcomed addition. Its sufficiently bright for lighting up the path in front of you. The handle is also quite nice. It has a slightly awkward lock/unlock system with two different releases, but it works well enough. And the kickstand is icing on the cake. The things I would like to see changed: the magnetic charge port. It's the same one used on the Xtreme. While neat, it's not necessary like on a laptop, and it only adds potential points of failure if you don't have it securely seated or the tiny pins get corroded. The design looks a tad toylike. Not up to the high bar set by the Xtreme. The tire is 16 x 1.95, so a tad thinner than most 16" EUC tires including the Solowheel original. Its actually quite fine after extensive testing, but I'd rather have something beefier like 16 x 2.125. In conclusion, I will say that overall it's a really good, versatile option for someone living and working in the city. In practice, the experience of riding this thing around is very good - a total joy. There is no aspect of the wheel that you are trying to "fight" the whole time. It's just a really satisfying ride. FULL DISCLOSURE: I sell this thing! but I have no problem pointing out its flaws among the positives. I've owned and ridden a ton of other wheels, so I do have a good frame of reference (check my profile). I got involved professionally after riding and buying an Xtreme.
  19. 5 points
    Last Sunday, I riding 90 km without breaks, my feets are ok (MS3+ 1600)
  20. 5 points
    Are those padded shin guards that you're wearing? (By the way, nice riding.) Allen
  21. 5 points
    Sounds like it was a rough weekend to ride Monsters. I tumbled down a few hills on mine. Once when I was falling through the air I noticed my finger was between the wheel and the case. I managed to pull the finger out before the Monster began to freewheel and before we hit the ground. I ended up with a nice slice on my finger and bruises in places a man my age shouldn't. I feel you pain and hope you didn't hurt anything to badly. All I can say is ride on:-)
  22. 5 points
    You forgot to mention that for a couple hundred bucks the Segway ramp also comes with the 'girl lift' accessory!
  23. 4 points
    Maybe that is the issue. The US market is very low as a percent of. Then Asian riders only weigh like 75lbs. And they dont ride like mad men because in China they will disappear you and in Singapore they cane your ass red.
  24. 4 points
    I replaced my Ninebot One E+ battery when it was around 1 year old and worked for 1000km. The thing I noticed was that it did not perform well in cold weather (sub zero degree celsius) and that the shrink wrap started to have holes in it due to the battery moving in the housing on bumpy roads. Also, I found out that the original battery had no balancer, which would cause truble in the long run when charging (over charging some of the cells). This was a major safety concern for me, so I decided to swap the battery out ASAP. I got a much better battery from a German shop (1RadWerkstatt). He uses better cells and a better BMS, including the necessary balancer circuit to make sure none of the cells are over charged. For the Ninebot One E+, his battery has 388Wh and the cells he is using perform much better in cold weather. Here is a link for reference: http://www.1radwerkstatt.de/epages/80603321.sf/en_US/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2F80603321%2FProducts%2F"15S Ninebot" However, almost another year and another 1000km later I am in the market for a new wheel and pre-ordered a KS16S. At the time I decided to swap the battery, this model was not available yet and all the 16" wheels had 800W motors, which did not sound like that big of an upgrade to me, but now that there is a 1200W and >800Wh 16" wheel, it is very tempting to just get an upgrade. Today, I am not sure if I would have updated the battery of the Ninebot, if such a wheel would have been readily available. It is unfortunate that Ninebot stopped innovation. I think they still have the best looking wheels, which are also very reliable and easy to maintain. Just compare the procedure to change the tire on a Ninebot vs. a Kingsong...
  25. 4 points
    Thanks.Tire has been ordered.The "world famous ACM2040" will soon become the "world famous ACM2040FTE". (FTE=fat tire edition).Cutting the plastic is the easy part,(have done it to numerous wheels including the ACM2040 for battery mods.
  26. 4 points
    The plus ( + ) -sign next to the "Quote" -button is multiquote. You click it on all the posts you want to quote and then click the "Quote X posts" -button that appears in the lower right corner. Don't know how it looks on mobiles though.
  27. 4 points
    And hopefully not arcing between the motor wires. That would eventually take a toll, and cause a major failure in the future.
  28. 4 points
    I didn't have a scale, but there's no way that the GT16 weighed that much. Sometimes the spec's that you see on web sites are pulled out of someones butt
  29. 4 points
    The pedals are thin, not small I would say. If you measure them against MSuper pedals, the length is the same, but the MSuper pedals are ~1/2" wider. 3 weeks of riding my GT16 in quite a bit of rain in NYC, no issue with slip. The pedals, due to being thinner and rubber I believe, do a pronounced V, more so than any other EUC brand, which wedges your feet to the machine more. My GT16 is long presses for power on and off, actually one of the longest of all EUCs I've bought. And I've tested pressing mid-ride, the GT16 does not shut off. Dunno if @captainwells's GT16 is different. Very subjective, must be a first ride thing. Riding for 3 weeks solely on my GT16, can't say mine feels not stable; feels plenty stable here. And nimble is relative. My GT16 feels like a regular 16", not as nimble as my 14" V5F+, especially due to the GT16's 49lbs 39lbs. And yes, the GT16 is very smooth. It has a rubbery like resistance to the drive, but not in a V8 way, more buttery. Yes, the GT16 is a hard response, just softer than a Ninebot or InMotion. The GT16 actually goes the other way, the pedals tiltback more than they dip, which is great for turns, but the rest of the time, they almost feel like speed warning tiltback if you didn't know any better. 3 weeks all over NYC, no issues yet (my tiltback and alarms are at 40kph, and I am 79kg. Most Asia faceplant reports seem to come from heavyweight riders going uphill FWIW. The crackling might be debris. The GT16, due to not a lot of tire clearance, tends to pick up a lot of debris going through the tire-case crevice. Personally, I love the rocket type sound when pushing the GT16. On the flip side, it can be on the louder side when rolling in a quiet building..
  30. 4 points
    Hi, one of my first rides in the Nature with my X3... It took my only about 8km's - but its pretty nice to checkout if i can handle it. Yuo can see - its not pretty warm in April in Germany !
  31. 4 points
    I use voltage as the reference, so can't say of the percentages, Battery University had this graph, but the percentages might not be the same as what the wheel apps show: Based on that, 30..40% would seem like the "sweet spot". http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_store_batteries It looks like laser, but it's just resistance wire glowing hot. If I remember right, that setup pulled about 10A out of the batteries, and dropping something like 55-60V over the wire, the entire wire was taking about 550-600W. Don't remember the gauge to check the amperage/temperature -charts, but based on color, might be somewhere around 800-1000 degrees Celcius? The Nichrome/Kanthal -wires are good up to something like 1300-1400 degrees C.
  32. 4 points
    In my (limited) experience, quality cells hold their charge pretty well... I've had 4 packs sitting for about a year (well, somewhat less, since last summer), and they've dropped to 57.8V (I'm not sure what I charged them to exactly when I left them sitting, something between 58-59V). The important thing is to not leave them sitting at high voltage, or to let them discharge too deeply. I've checked (or remembered to check ) the voltages about every three-four months, and haven't had the need to recharge them at any point. 3.6-3.8V per cell (57.6...60.8V for 16S/67.2V packs, 72...76V for the 20S/84V packs) seems to be some kind of recommended value, so around the nominal voltage per cell. If the voltage is too high, you need to find something to use as a load to discharge the packs somewhat. Light bulbs (not the energy saving "compact fluorescent" kind) could work, I used heat resistor wire: Maybe not the safest option...
  33. 4 points
    Apparently my feet are made of steel because I can ride great distances without needing a break I do not own any of those wheel cushions - I wouldn't be caught dead using one of those
  34. 4 points
    Cool video. Trail riding in the snow looks like a blast
  35. 4 points
    Personally I think the inMotion logo is way better looking that solowheel logo which looks really amatuerish by comparison. And that red brake light on the V8 with the inmotion logo... that's really gorgeous.
  36. 3 points
    Don't get me wrong - I want Gotway to thrive and become a world leader in EUC making. I don't want this to turn into a Gotway bashing thread, but I think their reputation will continue to suffer if they don't step up to the plate and improve quality control, beef up design elements, and support their customers. I am dying to buy an ACM16 due to the Gotway King of Naked Backward Riders , but at the same time I don't want to be the guy who has an intermittently functioning wheel or one I cannot turn off straight out of the box unless I have some solid warranty support behind it. I love the fact that Jason McNeil is carrying Gotway as he's got a solid rep. I think Gotway needs to develop an improved company mission goal that they can aim for. They already have leading edge products in terms of abilities, but they need to back them up and adopt a higher quality product ideal and a upper level customer service model. Maybe their current methods are fine for the Asian market so they don't feel any need to improve things. I suppose if the majority of my market customers don't care that much about warranty or quality, why change for a small number of westerners? Sometimes it can be all about perspective.
  37. 3 points
    https://www.amazon.com/16x2-125-Inner-Tube-Tire-Electric/dp/B00CCJM4HE/ref=pd_sbs_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00CCJM4HE&pd_rd_r=0JBZTDZJTZZ49SDV1PBQ&pd_rd_w=rcor1&pd_rd_wg=iJHa3&psc=1&refRID=0JBZTDZJTZZ49SDV1PBQ The inner tube didn't work because the valve was not bent the right way but i just used the original tube that was on the ACM and so far so good. Also, not sure how you're gonna cut out the inside plastic parts but i used my dental lab handpiece with a 1" diamond coated disk http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marathon-Dental-Lab-Electric-Polishing-Micromotor-N3-35K-RPM-Motor-Handpiece-/400904118090?hash=item5d57bf5f4a:g:lA8AAOSwuxFYs9fX Something like this ^^^ Enjoy
  38. 3 points
    Maybe @captainwells's GT16 travels back in time. Would explain the crackling sound.
  39. 3 points
    That is not true. read the regulations. Basically it is simpler to ship with batteries installed. The rules basically say that it needs to be robust enclosure and that packaging need have cushioning and strong box. also batteries need to be at below 30% charge. if you send batteries alone it have more restrictions. specially battery packs. “Rigid” Packaging (Effective January 1, 2016). The updated regulations specify that “strong rigid outer packaging” must be used for batteries that are shipped alone or in or with equipment when meeting the requirements of Section II of Packing Instructions 965, 966, 967, 968, 969, and 970. The Packing Instructions also specify acceptable materials for such packaging (e.g., fiberboard boxes, plastic drums). Battery Powered Equipment (Effective January 1, 2016). The Regulations include special packaging requirements to address the potential risk of transporting hover boards and other vehicles containing lithium batteries. Under Packing Instruction 952, battery powered equipment and vehicles that may be handled in different positions must be secured in a strong, rigid outer packaging and “be secured by means capable of restraining the vehicle in the outer packaging to prevent any movement during transport that would change the orientation or cause the vehicle to be damaged.” Updated Packing Instruction 952 also forbids the transport of vehicles containing “[l]ithium batteries identified by the manufacturer as being defective for safety reasons, or that have been damaged, that have the potential of producing a dangerous evolution of heat, fire or short circuit…” Lithium Ion Batteries Packaged Alone (Effective April 1, 2016). Lithium ion or lithium polymer cells and batteries packaged alone (i.e., without equipment) may not exceed a state of charge of 30% of their rated design capacity (under Packing Instruction 965) as determined by the guidance and methodology in the UN Manual of Tests and Criteria, 5th revised edition, Amendment 1, Section Shippers may ship lithium ion or polymer cells or batteries with a state of charge greater than 30% only if they have received approval from the State of Origin and the State of the Operator. As these small lithium battery-powered vehicles do meet the definition of “vehicles” as set out in Special Provision A21, and as they are powered by a lithium ion battery then the correct classification for these small vehicles is UN 3171, Battery-powered vehicle and therefore must be packed in accordance with Packing instruction 952. There are a number of important considerations with respect to the use of UN 3171 for these small vehicles, as follows: 1. the assignment to UN 3171 does not provide for any exception from the full application of the Regulations, i.e. there is no exception for vehicles that contain lithium ion batteries that do not exceed 100 Wh. 2. the net quantity required on the Shipper’s Declaration for UN 3171 is the net weight of the complete vehicle. There is no limit on the weight of a lithium ion battery in a vehicle or in a package and there is no net quantity difference between passenger aircraft and Cargo Aircraft Only. 3. If the lithium ion battery is removed from the vehicle and packed separate from the vehicle in the same outer packaging, then the classification becomes UN 3481, Lithium ion batteries packed with equipment and Packing Instruction 966 applies. Recommendations In locations where these devices are readily available and being consigned as cargo, operators should engage with freight forwarders and their cargo ground service provider to clarify the classification of these small vehicles and the additional considerations that apply. Forwarders should be encouraged to reach out to shippers of these products to ensure that the shippers are made aware of the classification requirement as UN 3171. You can contact the IATA Dangerous Goods Support team if you have questions or concerns that may not have been addressed in this document at: dangood@iata.org. lithium-battery-vehicles-cargo.pdf
  40. 3 points
  41. 3 points
    The following people received Day 3 rewards: @freetheoranges @ramma @Paddylaz @bTomLotus @RobValley This "incentive program" has ended.
  42. 3 points
    @Hunka Hunka Burning Love likes to poke fun which is good and is something I have been accused of myself.I guess you could call it "KARMA".
  43. 3 points
    It was a little chilly at the beach today so the clothes had to stay on. Plus it wasn't my wheel so that may have been a little awkward BTW, how exactly have I now been branded as the naked wheeler when it was @Hunka Hunka Burning Love that started this
  44. 3 points
  45. 3 points
    It won't keep me from a wheel, but it does get annoying after a while, even when sitting idle. I guess I hear it easier than some others, because it does grind on my nerves a bit. But, like I say, I prefer the noise over having another lesser wheel.
  46. 3 points
    HUGE outer shell of KS18 keeps me away from it... With refined, much smaller KS18S with the shape of KS16 / KS16D - I would consider it strongly... Maybe next year, as I have ordered KS16S for now... On the other hand I see no need for speeds over 30-35 km/h now, mainly due to the safety issues. My current KS16 for my type of use is just perfect... I had never encountered low range issue so far, so the only drive to go for KS18S would be bigger wheel for added safety on bumpy roads...
  47. 3 points
    But... you were so close! Is it the renewed motor operation that worries you, or the parts you haven't done yet (new wires to board, for example) that makes it too much? Well, it is understandable, wheels are for riding, not repairing. We got some really interesting information here, people are going to look up the innards here for a long time! And you got a lot of knowledge and experience. If you buy from speedyfeet, you won't have to wait long. Are you charging your batteries occasionally so they don't just sit around?
  48. 3 points
    The Charger Doctor still hasn't arrived. I'm impatient to ride again, so I decided to use a DVM to monitor the charge voltage. I soldered a pair of wires to he output of the battery charger, on the pcb, insided the charger case. I used a DVM and recorded the charger output voltage and the battery voltage as reported by the KingSong App. I would expect the battery voltage to be lower than the charger output. There should be a diode drop + the IR drop of the wire that's between the charger pcb and where the KingSong measures the battery voltage. At least a volt difference, I'd guess. But, as I suspected, the charger voltage (as measured by the DVM) is lower than the app reports. It started at 1.6 volts lower than and was 2.0 volts lower when I turned the charger off at a DVM voltage of 62.1 volts. Here's a plot of the charger voltage and battery voltage (as reported by the App) versus the time on the charger: So, the control board's notion of the battery voltage is inconsistent with what I measure on the battery charger output. I'll work with Jason to see what I should do next. I could use the Charger Doctor to terminate the charge at a low enough voltage so that the KS doesn't think it's too high. I'd have to stay low enough to prevent tilt back going down hills. I'll have to look at some battery curves to determine how much capacity that would sacrifice. Image didn't paste, so here it is as a .png attachment
  49. 3 points
    @jrkline,could you share on an other post how you did your mod and the wiring? i bet it would interest a lot of ks16 owners. Thanks in advance.
  50. 3 points
    For me there is a bigger question to be answered. What evidence is there showing that this fan has any significant effect on cooling of the board ? My personal experiments to improve KS cooling ( tested on my modded 26") has shown no improvement when adding a fan above the compartment. I've gone as far as lifting the board within the compartment to induce better airflow under the board. Was necessary to move capacitors to achieve the move. I'm very interested to know exactly the improvement achieved, regardless the waterproofing issue