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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 31 points
    There is a similar topic on the Russian EUC forum, and it is gaining popularity due to the frequent contributions of outstanding EUC artist - @Дед62. I got his permission to re-post his work here in the hope that it may inspire other artists and will extend the gallery of our favorite gadget. I believe you will enjoy this creative work. Feel free to post in this topic any other image which you consider to be relevant to "EUC art" Happy EUC Sailor Tricks With Violin Taxi Winter Evening With The Wheel Ambulance Delivery Battle of Kulikovo (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kulikovo) Parade Beach Towing Services Man and His Friend Icarus Bogatyrs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viktor_Vasnetsov) comments from left to right: - ... what a mess... - ... and where is your power plug, Popovitch? ... - ... mongols fricking stole it again... Medieval Tournament London 1920 The Moving Guy Burlaks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barge_Haulers_on_the_Volga) all praises go to @Дед62
  2. 20 points
    My whole body is starting to stiffen up as I type this Unfortunately there's no video. I was cruising with my Monster to some good tunes on a very nice curvy sidewalk. Probably 15mph max - the tunes were definitely pumping up my speed There was an outside curve that had hedges pruned right up to the edge of the sidewalk. You know where this is going right Just as I was thinking my speed was a tiny bit too fast for the curve and the bushes seemed like they might juuuuust brush my feet - Bam! The left pedal caught, the wheel stopped, and I flew off the right side, twisting as I caught some air. Landed on my right and slid on the adjacent dirt/grass very hard. Kind of knocked the breath out of me and for a couple of seconds I thought that this might be the fall where I break something (something personal, like a bone). I lay there for 15 seconds and then slowly started moving, not wanting to injure something worse in case I was broken. After about 5 minutes of very slow movements I was able to climb back on the Monster (which seemed to be unscathed) and limp home. My right hip, groin, ribs, arm, and shoulder feel like they participated in a Monday Night football game, without my permission. The one positive take away is the reaffirmation to wear full protection when I'm going to be out riding fast. In this case I was wearing a long sleeve shirt, gloves, elbow and knee pads, and my helmet (which I wear even when I'm not going fast). Tomorrow is not going to be fun
  3. 13 points
    Continuing my backward riding practice, today I take my MSuper V3 to the bottom of the San Gabriel River to work on my steering and turning skills.
  4. 12 points
    Since I began modifying my Gotway ACM 1600 and posting updates in another thread I realized there is a great deal crossover information that applies to all EUCs. I am currently working on installing new hall sensors in the ACM but thought many EUC members may not be entirely familiar with these tiny little sensors and the huge role they play in the design of our wheels. Here is a short video I put together that demonstrates some of the basic principals of hall sensors. Edit: At 3:21 I become dyslexic(north is off)
  5. 12 points
    A very quick electric unicycling practice session video from this morning showing some bar jumps and a Pennyspin (returning) Boomerang around a cone. Apologies for the poor quality of the footage - this was due to my slider rail malfunctioning. I have posted basic instructions in the "Tricks to Learn" thread. The bar jump is definitely not one to try on a Monster
  6. 10 points
    Investigated an issue a bit deeper overnight. Application connects to a number of Chinese servers. Tried to block those one by one, and spotted the one that is used for IP geolocation: 120.24.53.232. It is used for all other services also unfortunately (account, social, firmware updates). So, there are 2 workarounds for the problem: Disable network, start app, connect to wheel, enable network and use all the App features. If you do not care about inmotion social services, you can block an access from your phone to IP 120.24.53.232 permanently. Option 2 requires a bit more magic: For non-rooted Android phone, you can use NoRoot Firewall app, but this way you will have to have firewall always running. For rooted Android, you can use a script attached to add IP to rejected list. it will work until next reboot unless you make it autostart (e.g. by putting to /system/etc/init.d/ folder) For iPhone users, you dont care about money anyway, so just buy a new wheel Hope this helps someone. If more information needed - shout. IPTables.sh
  7. 8 points
    So my Monster took a bit of a beating this weekend. I had a goal to make it to a radio tower at the top of a mountain behind my place. This is a 400m meter climb over some questionable roads but I had it in mind that we would do it (that is me and the Monster). I had tried to get there last weekend but ran into to much snow so ended up turning around. When I returned I found my rear lights no longer worked. As I didn't have time and the Monster was still functional I left it. So this weekend I took the Monster for another assault at the hill. This time success. 10km and 400m very few tumbles for both of us and 28 minutes to success. It was a nice sunny day so I figured I would I tackle the next level take the mountain bike trails back. I wish I had filmed it as it was a series of tumbles and nail bitting down hills. At times I was leaning so far back to slow down that my heals were hitting the ground behind me. I managed to run an couple of freshets and cross a few swamps. Both my self and the Monster were covered in mud and I am not sure what else by the time we hit the bottom an hour and a half later. So I went to shut the EUC down for a well deserved rest and scrub down but it didn't want to shut off. I didn't matter how many times I pushed the power button the Monster had turned into the energizer bunny and it just kept on going. Eventually I just lifted it up and let it free wheel until it auto shut off. So then it was time to dissect and investigate. It turns out that water is able to enter the Monster from many cracks and crevices. I am sure that that was the cause of the shut off issue as I found droplets of water throughout the inside of unit. I have since dried everything, reassembled and taped off all seams. Rear lights still don't work (dealer is working on that with me) but I was very happy with the assembly of my unit (Dec 22 2016 run). All cables and connections were tight and no indication of overheating. One cable had been pinched but this was an easy fix. Anyway some of the pictures are below for those that may be interested:
  8. 8 points
    Manufacturers and importers! Did you know that you can send me all brands and models of transportation to be tested. If you want the device to test "a little bit" harder and more thoroughly, I do it Together we can develop even better equipment. I will give suggestions on how the device could be developed further. Please contact me via FB or Youtube, and will be discussed in more detail. Thank you for the picture Yuriy Borodin aka Дед62
  9. 8 points
    I think that should be a legal requirement for all new wheels. Send one to @EUC Extreme and let him beat the living hell out of it, then send it to @zlymex to analyse the damage. How many of the current wheels would pass that test?
  10. 7 points
    Here's something that'll make you feel better.I was out riding my newly enhanced (940wh) KS-16 since I just received it 2 days ago after having to leave it at the Hong Kong airport last Oct. due to the Einsteins working the Air Canada counter not allowing me to check a batteryless wheel on the plane. So Friday I decided to hit Starbucks and Home depot on my long lost wheel and was on my way back home doing 10-12 mph on the sidewalk.The next thing I know,bam.The wheel stops dead and me and my mocha frapp are horizontal on the sidewalk.I survived with nothing more than a tiny scrape on the right elbow and a bruise to my ego,however the frapp wasn't so lucky.This was all due to one doorstop sized rock laying right in the middle of the sidewalk which I some how failed to see.So cheer up and keep on rollin' 'cause we all be a fallin now and then.
  11. 7 points
    Buy the best wheel that you can afford and/or want and learn on that. It's what I did. I bought an ACM and padded it up. Once I learned how to ride, there was no need to upgrade the wheel since I already had what I considered the best wheel.
  12. 6 points
    https://discord.gg/GJTHZ3r What is Discord? It was originally meant for gamers and real-time voice-chat however it has become very useful for everything else and for text chat purposes as well. For our purposes it's basically "IRC for the 21st century" (as @esaj put it) for euc discussion. It's a real-time group text chat that is "cloud-based" so that you can log on anytime and still see the message history on what you missed while you were offline. The @mention system works wonderfully and the private messaging system works great too. Just click the link at the top to get started. Be aware that, like anything new, it takes time to get the ball rolling with activity. Be the early-adopter and "roll the ball" (I mean wheel). Click this link to go straight to the channel. Thanks to @freetheoranges for suggesting to set up a Discord channel for this forum.
  13. 6 points
    My wife and I also like mountainbiking in the hills and mountains around us, and Slovenia and Italy. If you want to see Danny MacAskill, one of the bike trialist stars, crossing the Cuillin ridge on the isle of Skye, invest 7 minutes in this video. When it ends, you will e.g. know how to cross a 5 feet high fence on a bicycle without leaving the bikesaddle, and try it by yourself:
  14. 6 points
    Some known spots for water to come in: The Motherboard is screwed onto the plastic Shell with the heatsink directing to the wheel/tyre side, a Silicon lip "should" protect the heatsink/board from getting water into the Shell. But there are two known ways water can get in: First is when a screw of the heatsink gets loose, then the Silicon lip will not be squeezed enough anymore Second is when the heatsink gets that hot that it warms/deforms the Silicon lip, so that it is not waterproof anymore. Take a look or take care there also. That the powerbutton,when getting wet, will not let you power off the wheel is a known Symptome also. Better as otherwise, if it would power off when wet is much worse :-) You can shut off the wheel by laying it just on it's side, not needed to let it run into a cut-off :-)
  15. 6 points
    Simple really.Had a couple 132wh battery packs lying around so I pryed off the rubber shin pads and cut away the plastic side beneath and stuck a battery on each side to the existing battery pack and then put the shin pads back on with some rubber stripping around the side of each shin pad to fill the gap.They stick out about 3/4 of an inch more than before but I don't really notice any difference riding the wheel. Here you can see the rubber stripping and thicker shin pads.
  16. 6 points
    South of France is the place to ride ! It's now allowed to ride on highway... Fun family ride with my son Edit : only for two days ... it will be open soon to car traffic
  17. 6 points
    Welcome! Riding EUCs is amazing but the manufacturers specifications are far from reality... Personally I wouldn't recommend the V5F+ over 80kg, I think it won't be so strong for you.. You need more power at the bare minimum 800W preferably 1200W or more. I have this wheel since July I'm about 70kg and if I put on a 10kg backpack it starts to feel a bit weak. I would call it a comfortable 20 km/h cruising speed +/-3 km/h (tiltback is agressive from 23-25 km/h, alarm goes off at 25 km/h). I get about 30km range down to 25% battery level, I don't ride below that if I can help it. I can go 35-40km max but then I ride carefully the last 5-10km. In lower temperatures lithium batteries will give you less range, it drops off pretty fast below 5°C. Also as the batteries age some capacity will be gradually lost over time. The range for your weight will be less and it's winter soon.. It's a great high quality wheel but I think for your weight it's lacking power and range. If you can hold out a couple of months the Kingsong KS16S is coming out it should be great with 1200W. If you can't wait the current KS16 is a good option too with a good internal trolley handle solution. And price should be lower as the new model will take over soon. Gotway ACM is another option with more power and speed but trolley is not great.. Inmotion V8 is a very nice wheel but range for your weight is lacking and I think it's a little too tall (can't fit under the legs on the train). There's also the new KS14D but again the range will be lacking and from what I saw the trolley on it seems a bit too short, it seems designed for the shorter chinese and kids if they don't improve on that part. That's my shortlist of the more portable wheels... For all EUC specifications don't count on getting much more than about 50% range and 80% speed from the stated values. Of course for a first wheel you can get something cheaper.. Riding these things might not be your cup of tea. But pretty much everyone who goes for it loves it! However the high end models have a steep price tag. Wheelgo is a great european reseller highly recommended by the way also Speedyfeet very popular. Most riders who get a cheap wheel then upgrade after a couple of months already, so in my opinion get something good from the start and have a nicer experience. Whatever you ride stay around and wear protective gear!
  18. 5 points
    I've recently bought V8 as my second wheel - it's time to upgrade from E+ :-) If you had a puncture or simply want to change the stinky Kenda tire to something else (a winter tire maybe?), this is the simplest disassembly and reassembly video I could find (just enable English subtitles): Finally a solution without having to touch the motherboard or anything else.
  19. 5 points
    I just got my KS16S up and running. These are my initial impressions of the KS16S as it compares to my KS14C. I've only put a couple miles on the 16 so let's not call this a review. A little background. I rode the 14C 800 watt motor with 640 watt hour battery a few thousand miles in the last year. I commute with it 25 miles a day most days. I use it for errands. I almost forgot how to walk. It did most everything well. Some things not so well. It was a little small for the rougher sections of the commute and tended to overheat on the hills. If it didn't break I would still be ridding it. The 16S rides like a KingSong. Most of the difference is just because it's a bigger wheel. The 16S is a lot heavier than the 14C. The 16 weighs 37.2 lbs on my bathroom scale vs 30 lbs for the 14. It turns tighter then expected. At angles the 14 would scrape peddles the 16 still clears the ground. The 14 is still way more maneuverable as expected but the 16 is no slouch. I keep expecting to drag a peddle and have to step off but it hasn't happened yet. The 14 peddles are notoriously slippery. The 16 peddles have grip tape to the other extreme, might as well be Velcro. You have to lift your foot completely off to reposition. I didn't notice much difference in the feel of the padding. The 16 is wider but it doesn't feel that different from the 14. Cons so far and these may change as I gain experience on the 16: peddles feel too short. Riding up or down a steep slope feels like I need more peddle or I am going to tip off the front or back. I feel I need more leverage to stop and go; Perceived lack of torque. The 16 had problems starting up a hill that the 14 could easily start up on. Once going the 16 with 1200 watts easily powered up what the 14 struggled with. The bigger wheel is more stable at speed. Bad sidewalks are so much more rideable. Curbs with the bigger wheel do not feel easier to yet. Overall I think I am going to like the 16S for commuting.
  20. 5 points
    In case of wheels, it's not the charger that's doing the balancing, but the BMS, the charger is just a sort of "dumb" constant current/constant voltage power supply. The reason why a partial charge won't (in most cases) balance the cells is the way the balancing is handled on the (cheaper) BMSs, I've never took that close of a look on a BMS, but apparently at least most simply will just bypass the cell once it reaches maximum voltage (around 4.2V), so the cells at maximum voltage will stop charging while the others are still being charged. I don't know how it's technically handled, the simplest way I can think of would be just to put 4.2V zener/transil-diodes in parallel with each cell, but AFAIK zeners aren't very precise, and could have trouble handling high charging currents, so probably there's something "more intelligent" still going on the BMS-side. In RC-hobby packs, many battery packs are just a bunch of cells without BMS that have separate balancing wires for the cells. There, the charger is the "intelligent" part, and many higher quality chargers apparently stop charging the other cells when they notice one or more cells "falling behind" (or one or more cells getting ahead) in terms of voltage, and stop charging the higher voltage cells until the rest have caught up, because it can control the charging of each cell separately. That way, the cells can be balanced at lower voltages too. The connector with different colored wires going to the socket on the top right of the charger is the balancing connector. But for the wheel BMSs (I don't know if it's true for all wheels, but apparently most), the cell has to be charged to full voltage before actual "balancing" occurs, and leaving the charger for longer while is to make sure that all the cells reach the maximum voltage, and are thus at the same voltage (balanced). Doing a partial charge, the cell bypasses won't be activated, and the cells can be left at different voltages.
  21. 5 points
    Less landscape but still really amazing riding skills, IMHO:
  22. 5 points
    Glad you ok Marty, hope you well soon. I faceplant 3 weeks ago, same like you felt at sidewalk when hit a bus stop bench, did not wear elbow pad, bad road rash. All good again and just start ride again this morning. I will wear all pads every time now.
  23. 5 points
    I conducted a hall sensor test this morning on the new sensors I purchased for my ACM. I attempted to test the old ACM sensor but unfortunately the internal components must be fried as it never worked! The sensor I am using is a bipolar latched version from Honeywell. It is 1mm smaller in width and height from the OEM sensor. I have a few more ordered from different manufacturers to see if they are any larger. I suppose epoxy will fill the 1mm void when they are installed in the motor. I will see what the others look like when they arrive. Here is a short video of the new hall sensor in action using 5 volts to power the first 2 legs of the sensor and a resistor going to diode to prevent the light from burning out. When the North Pole of the magnet passes in front of the sensor it turns on and stays on. This is called latched. When the South Pole passes in front it shuts off. So when both poles play a roll in activating the sensor it is called Bipolar. I hope the video helps to better understand how these little electrical components work within our wheels.
  24. 5 points
    Skills: -Master Mounting using triangle method and a purposeful one leg launch and then landing the other leg on the other pedal as the EUC glides forward under control. -Master Accelerating to speed, cruise and then slowing down to a complete stop and dismounting gently. This is important because you might have to dismount in the middle of a crowd. - Master gliding at people walk speed. You will need to do that a lot and you don't want to force people to jump out of your way because you can not go slow enough. - Master cruise speed and smooth "S" turns. Important to weave through sidewalks and pedestrians. Although weaving thorough pedestrians should be avoided. -Master "It is OK to stop to avoid a disaster". If you are not sure of the situation, stop!. Let the situation clear (people, cars) then mount. -Master "It is OK to walk your wheel". Don't force the situation. If you fail control someone will be hurt.
  25. 5 points
    That mostly depends on what batteries in how much parallel circles you have! 340wh->2P 520/680/820->4P 1300wh/1600wh->6P 1360/1680wh->8Parallel packs So if you go for example with a 4 Amp Charge, you have to divide that by parallel packs....lets stay on meepmeep 1300wh/6P example Each of the pack gets 4Amp/6Packs=0,66 Amp.... For the installed batteries of about 3000mah each cell Charge up to 1,5Amp would be called a 0,5C Charge and 0,5C means slow! With using 0,66Amp instead of 1,5Amp you are still doing a ultra-slow Charge(0,2C) and everything is fine!!! So: As more parallel packs you have...the higher you can go with Charge rate/Amps! But: More than 5 Amps are not recommended for the Charge wires inside the wheel!!! And/Or BMS Systems! So if someone wants to go higher...Change the wiring on the Charge cables inside the wheel!!! I dont know what KS had in it's thoughts when giving the 2Amp Statement......in my view it's nonsense to generalize....
  26. 5 points
    V8 Max Speed = 30kph Ninebot One E+ Max Speed = 24kph Ninebot Elite PTR E+ Max Speed = 22kph There's really no comparison IMHO. The V8 was created a whole generation after, is faster, lighter, and longer range, including built-in trolley handle, most powerful headlight of all EUC manufacturers, and wheel disengage handle button, all things the Ninebot One E+ does not offer.
  27. 5 points
    Ha ha! That is the common question I get asked when I say I am from NJ. I never get tired of it at all. Turnpike exit 9. Yes that is me in the pic on my KS14C. I try to get my other doc friends to join me but they get intimidated by the one wheel thing. My orthopedic and neurosurgeon friends always joke that they will take good care of me though. Lol
  28. 4 points
    I think this is a good addition to the forums, maybe we can tone down at least a bit all the chit-chat on the forum topics and chat in Discord instead. I haven't had that much time tonight to partake in the chat (I've had really, really important things to do, like spend two hours to figure out that I put two wires bass ackwards on a board), but am planning on at least following what's going on there. Btw, you don't have to register an account unless you want to, just pick a username and join in (although, I hope people won't start spamming or trolling using fake usernames and whatnot, so we won't have even more moderating to do ) EDIT: John changed the settings so that now you have to register, and it's at least relatively easy to use (if you're familiar with IRC, it's pretty similar with nice clean interface and without having to type commands ). Try it out and see if you like it.
  29. 4 points
    The difference of 1,5Amp and 5Amp and if its bad for batterie life depends on the packs and batteries used? yes , 5amps are not good for a 2p16 or 20s... But on a ACM or Msuper 84volt with 6parallel systems each system just gets about 0,85 Amp! a "half c" load would be 1,5 or 1,75 Amps for that cell type....and as that is just a about a "quarter C" load with 5 Amps...it is not said to do anything bad for batterie life! And one more thing for charge doctor: Your charge doctor is adjustable!! You can set the Amps or volts when it stops! (not "c"!)( i think it is adjusted to 1 amp when you get it) Hold the button on your Cd, while you are plugging in the charger...and it will come up to life with "auto" announced...and then you can adjust the auto-stop amperage or voltage by one clicks (round robin)
  30. 4 points
    I have have been requested to do a video about the maximum speed of Active Track as feedback from the tutorial. DJI claim the max speed is 15 m/s - 55kph - 34mph, let’s find out ;-)
  31. 4 points
    Speaking of going up an incline. The video I link to below is well worth watching. Sorry it is Facebook and I can't help that. The individual testing the 16S goes down an very steep slope and then incredibly he goes all the way up the slope again. He estimates a 30 to 31 degree slope. The thing that is extra relevant to this discussion is be sure and look at his feet. He is literally standing on his toes (balls of feet) on the front of the pedals with his heels not even touching in order to get the power he needs to move forward. I thought it was odd when I saw it, but it goes to what @Trucktent is reporting. https://www.facebook.com/groups/kingsong/permalink/1233254950083876/ (The video really is worth a watch. Impressive climb.)
  32. 4 points
    I bought the Monster because I was told it is a good off road unit. It is and it isn't but that could be said for any machine. On the road it is smooth and delightful to ride and will handle any standard hill engineered to drive on. Off road in steep terrain I have found a couple of spots that it just didn't cut it and it wasn't able to climb. I haven't given up just yet as I am not entirely sure if it is the Monster's weakness or my ability to ride it. Downhill, I did try it down some hills that I had to use my hands (and almost knees) to crawl up. Any steeper and they would have been free fall (which I did unintentionally try for short distances:-) The Monster is pretty good at downhill. In mud and soft terrain the Monster is probably better than any other EUC out there but it is still point loaded on one wheel. Unless you go really fast, you can sink really deep:-) Did you notice that the Monster is heavy? Try pulling it out of the mud. Anyway, the top section is hollow and mostly isolated from the remainder of the wheel. The components seem to be hot glued but I doubt that is very effective. The inside of the handle was almost entirely dry. It appears that the sides are where most of the water gains access. I had water all over my control board, so yes I feel very lucky I didn't face plant even more often. The board appears to silicon coated or something similar. I was surprised to see the water coming in through the sides as I had ridden the Monster in fairly heavy rain 15km each way every day for a week when I was in Vancouver and had no issues. I think what happens is that the case flexes under duress and has a different modulus of elasticity then the side panels. This in turn will slightly open and close little gaps around the panels which if timed poorly allow water to get in. This is my theory anyway. My inability to turn off the unit is probably from water in the switch which doesn't seem very water tight. Once it dried all was well. I ended up taping around all of the joints to ensure I have a better seal going forward. I would say the Monster is mostly splash proof now as long as I stay away from the power button. I may tape some cellophane over it later to help that out. I do really like this EUC and hope that it survives my trials.
  33. 4 points
    There's a saying on this forum somewhere that goes along the lines "there are only two types of EUC rider - those that have already fallen off, and those that are going to fall off". Welcome to the rather non-exclusive club, hope you heal up soon!
  34. 4 points
    I took a 12 mile ride this morning with stop lights, crosswalks and everything with plenty of traffic and pedestrians. I'm starting, stopping and weaving with precision. I've clocked 41 km and I think I've got it. Thanks for all of your tips and advice everyone
  35. 4 points
    EUC Rider figures. Metal, wood, stone. 8" height, 3.3 pounds. The author - @Дед62 - was planning to use the figure as a trophy for a winner of the Spring 2017 Moscow EUC competition.
  36. 4 points
    The discharge-side protection in the battery management system (BMS, a circuit board usually located inside the battery pack) can usually be bypassed so it won't cutout when the power draw goes too high, but the downside is that the protections won't then of course work (ie. if the battery is short-circuited, it won't cut the power, but may overheat, possibly causing a fire or an explosion). The packs contain a lot of energy, so care should be taken when doing the bypass. More info here: EDIT: The pictures from the original post have gone missing, here's hobby16's off-site article: http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2015/07/21/bms-how-to-make-your-wheel-safer/ and here: Safer option would be purchasing a good quality battery that can give out more current without cutting out.
  37. 4 points
    like on all wheels the packs are configured in parallel...and so charge parallel. have to be so, cause the voltage of different packs is not allowed to be different, so that you can not charge only one! you can use a charge doctor with to inputs, to use 2 chargers, or just use a self made parallel connection, which puts 2 chargers together, and then use 2 "paralleld" chargers. or even more.... and like said ...all KS and Gw wheels are with thick enough wire, to stand a 5 Amp charge.....only if you go higher the charge wires in the wheel have to be changed.
  38. 4 points
    Fascinating thread. I went thru the same riding process you described. I'm happy with the speed of my E+, but the kids want to go faster. But 2016 was the first year in my 55 years that I didn't ride my bike. That speaks volumes of the enjoyment from the EUC.
  39. 4 points
    This is really annoying… I bought my wheel of Aliexpress for the fair amount of 900$, which I consider to be pretty much money for a electric engine with a wheel attached. I did my fair amount of research before deciding on the V8 and nowhere did it say not to shop from Aliexpress… On delivery I couldn’t connect to the wheel but managed to get it working through the Flightmode, turn on Bluetooth approach, good enough I could set the speed limit and tilt angle and see the speed and engine percentage. Then just last week a firmware update was pushed through and now it is impossible to connect to the wheel. This is really bad customer care from inmotions side. If they have issues with who’s selling their products they need to address that, but never ever have I heard of a company that decides to punish customers instead of retailers. This will for sure be my last buy from them if they don’t change their approach to customer care. Here was a clear lack of information to customers and total ignorance to the fact that I spent 900$ on a product that they are responsible for. I’ve got two answers on emails I sent asking for their help; both answers were short and did not help me in any way. I’m very much NOT impressed with how inmotion is handling this issue. If they are so money hungry, then give the customers who bought the wheel in not knowing the option to Paypal them 50$ or so and let them use the f*cking app. I sure hope they will make a decision to revise their policy here and get happy customers again, cause I’m pretty certain this approach is going to be bad for business in the long run.
  40. 4 points
    I have always been fascinated with things that glide. I started off with multirotors (back when you had to build them yourself from multiple kits) and did a fair bit of aerial video. Being quite heavily into the hobby, I watched a lot of my fellow flyers doing exciting new things, and one day I happened to see a video of somebody flying a drone whilst on a Solowheel, and I was blown away to find out that these machines even existed. It's not a hoverboard, I thought, but I bet it feels like one Within weeks I had ascertained that Solowheel were unnecessarily expensive, and more reasonably priced but well-reviewed Airwheel had just found distributorship in the UK. I bought my beloved Airwheel X5 when it was on special offer and set out to comprehensively test its abilities. It took me literally everywhere - my use of the car virtually disappeared, and I had found something I really loved doing every day, even more than aerial filming. 3 years, and nearly 8,000 miles later my X5 battery was seriously running out, though it had done very well to get as far as it did - I had had almost 2000 hours on it. Initially I was looking to replace its battery, but ideally I wanted something a bit faster, and with considerably more power, so I could more comfortably ride paths and pavements that the Airwheel couldn't easily tackle. So I began looking for an upgrade. Airwheel don't do anything that goes faster than 8 mph. It took about 3 minutes of watching @EUC Extreme on his Gotway before I decided I badly needed a wheel like that. Commenced the savings, waited an interminable amount of time for someone in this country to get them in stock, and finally got my MS18V3. I have been gloriously happy on that ever since, and try and go for one or 2 rides every day. I do all my shopping on my wheel, and regularly get round the local lake path with it, and sometimes go out for extended day trips to my favourite places, mostly in South East UK. For off-road stuff I am very close to Queen Elizabeth Country Park, which has some difficult downhill BMX tracks, and miles and miles of challenging woodland riding. Also close by is Butser Hill, the tallest hill in Hampshire, so there is much fun to be had up there too, as long as you can avoid the rabbit holes And there is some really good riding to be had along the coastal paths in Southsea and Portsmouth. What a wheel ! What a hobby ! What a time to be alive ! CBR
  41. 3 points
    I was watching a V8 tyre replacement video and this was in related. Enable English subtitles and enjoy:
  42. 3 points
    If you still have the two (or one?) other original sensors from the motor, you could try just cutting the wiring and sticking one directly onto the breadboard and wiring from there: No risk of burning the component with hot iron (Nevermind the E/B/C -markings in the picture, they're the BJT-legs). In general, there are very few occasions I've managed to burn a TO-92 -encased component with an iron (don't remember when was the last time, but it has happened). At least with normal (electrical, not gas powered) soldering irons, the "trick" is to use "enough" heat to melt the solder fast, that way the heat won't have time to spread all the way inside the casing and damage the component. For removing a wire from a TO-92 leg, you could just gently pull on the wire while heating the joint, and once the wire comes off, remove the heat from the leg immediately. Using some pliers on the leg above the heating point could also help to suck out the extra heat before it can enter the actual casing. Typical problem with component burning during soldering seems to be being too wary to use high heat, so people use too low heat and heat up the legs for longer time, rather than going in with high heat and doing the solder (relatively) fast, leaving less time for the component to heat. Of course, that doesn't mean to put your iron into the highest possible setting, in my experience, something like 300-330 degrees Celcius works nice with leaded solder (probably somewhat higher for non-leaded, aka Pb-free). In general, although it's said to be less healthy (don't inhale the vapors too much ), I prefer leaded solder with multiple flux channels ("multicore"), current favorite (although I haven't tried that many different tins) is the 0.5mm Stannol 2630, both for SMDs and through holes: http://www.stannol.de/en/products/solder-wires/?tx_produktselektor_filter[aa_prod]=2630&tx_produktselektor_filter[action]=show&tx_produktselektor_filter[controller]=Product Not the healthies option for sure, but the multicore and strong flux makes soldering really easy compared to something like no-clean pb-free tins (tried such, hated it ). For SMD-ICs, I use also (sometimes, if the pads are really small) solder paste. For desoldering, I use separate RMA-flux, desoldering braid and (as necessary) high heat, until I get around to order a hot air -station, that is... But usually when desoldering, I don't care if the component survives it or not (typically something's gone wrong with the soldering, and I just want to get the old component out of the way and replace it with a new one).
  43. 3 points
    For no specific reason I investigated the number of posts per month under the different brand names over about the last three month of 2016 (2016/09/05-2016/12/24) and about the first three months in 2017 (2016/12/24-2017/04/11), all of them but Rockwheel went down during this time. Gotway: 699, 359 (51%) Kingsong: 314, 198 (63%) Inmotion: 227, 182 (80%) Ninebot: 157, 134 (85%) IPS: 56, 38 (68%) Solowheel: 7, 2 (29%) Rockwheel: 7, 27(386%) any other: <7, <9
  44. 3 points
    Good video. In this particular case it probably greatly helped that he probably weighs 50kg. I have my doubts whether I would make it
  45. 3 points
    I would be very nervous about riding my Monster down such steep hills. With other wheels, not such a problem if you lose control. But with the Monster, it weights so much and is not constructed out of the most toughest of plastics, it doesn't do well when it hits the ground hard. Thanks for the pictures. From a previous crash where the plastic insert in the handle popped out, and the light panel is loose, I need to remove the outer shell to see how I can re-secure things. Do you have any advice for separating the two halves of the shell? Just remove the visible screws and that's it?
  46. 3 points
    @jrkline,could you share on an other post how you did your mod and the wiring? i bet it would interest a lot of ks16 owners. Thanks in advance.
  47. 3 points
  48. 3 points
    I did figure out how to mount easily and gracefully. It wasn't any one thing but a combination of several factors. There is an instinct to be in an athletic stance but this makes it difficult to move forward; rather, stand tall and mount by leaning forward. If you have your butt sticking out then the unicycle will move forward only with difficulty. It's amusing, though, at how the feedback loop works; with greater difficulty mounting, one takes a more athletic stance which in turn makes it more difficult to mount, and so on. EDIT: I've gone back into an athletic stance, actually a very athletic stance. I believe the stand tall stance works better for beginners because locked knees allows the wheel to track steady but I feel the stand straight stance to be just plain dangerous because it's hard to absorb bumps and also much much harder to bail safely at higher speeds. I dislike sand on concrete more than just about anything other danger because there's just nothing to work with. Most other dangers you can work it out by doing something but there is no grip and no possibility of doing anything much except keep that wheel directly under you. My advice is to practice crashing. Obstacle avoidance of course works great until you get into those edge cases. Do you know what your natural response is when your wheel gets stuck in a rut? No? Then practice as very low speed on the grass, and see if your reaction is appropriate, then practice and adjust accordingly. Personally, I practice off-road where grip is questionable, and where it's challenging enough to fall off quite often. This doesn't mean when I am on the city pavement I go looking for trouble; I take due care and diligence avoiding obstacles and cruise at a lower speed, but with the added skill and experience of being able to do something (anything) if I hit an obstacle. Which is better than doing nothing and just taking it. Example: a few days ago I went down into a sidewalk pothole that I did not see. The drop surprised me but it was the climb out of the other side that got sketchy. I ended up leaning way forward but then hopped the wheel over the edge so it could catch up with me. Example: I went into another rut that I did not see due to leaves covering its depth. In this case the wheel got suddenly stuck and I was floating in the air without it. In this case I managed to run off the wheel when I hit the ground, and managed to catch the wheel before it hit the ground (it got moving once I got off it). So my recommendation is to make up a list of all those unusual situations, and then go out and try them at very low speeds. Here's my extemporaneous list: --Wheel gets caught in a pothole/rut. --Wheel gets knocked to once side or another as one tries to get onto a sidewalk from grass at an angle. --Pedal gets caught on an obstacle, say a lamppost. --Run over slick mud while braking or accelerating. --A person tries to hit you or scare you off as you pass them coming the opposite direction (ie face to face). This will happen for sure; be sure you know how to react and I don't mean with dumb kung-fu or NRA crap. I mean in a way that gets you home safely. --You're carrying an open umbrella on a windy and rainy day. Can you stay on? And the car next to you is so busy looking at you they crash into a brick wall. Do you know what to do? (true story...I saw that go down and got out of there 'cause I'm not messing around with a guy who just crashed his beautiful new Toyota Camry) --A bicyclist hits you gently as he passes you, thereby rotating your body. Can you recover? --At the very last instance you spot a waist high chain across the sidewalk preventing passage. Jump or dump? --Cars not being concerned with you being in the crosswalk.
  49. 3 points
    I think makes sense to be latched only!! This way the signal may have less noise than other way.
  50. 3 points
    @Jojo33A Yep, that's the one! And there are holes on the other side correspondig with the placement of it so we can hear it, loud and clear