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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Some known spots for water to come in: The Motherboard is screwed onto the plastic Shell with the heatsink directing to the wheel/tyre side, a Silicon lip "should" protect the heatsink/board from getting water into the Shell. But there are two known ways water can get in: First is when a screw of the heatsink gets loose, then the Silicon lip will not be squeezed enough anymore Second is when the heatsink gets that hot that it warms/deforms the Silicon lip, so that it is not waterproof anymore. Take a look or take care there also. That the powerbutton,when getting wet, will not let you power off the wheel is a known Symptome also. Better as otherwise, if it would power off when wet is much worse :-) You can shut off the wheel by laying it just on it's side, not needed to let it run into a cut-off :-)
  2. 5 points
    My wife and I also like mountainbiking in the hills and mountains around us, and Slovenia and Italy. If you want to see Danny MacAskill, one of the bike trialist stars, crossing the Cuillin ridge on the isle of Skye, invest 7 minutes in this video. When it ends, you will e.g. know how to cross a 5 feet high fence on a bicycle without leaving the bikesaddle, and try it by yourself:
  3. 4 points
    I bought the Monster because I was told it is a good off road unit. It is and it isn't but that could be said for any machine. On the road it is smooth and delightful to ride and will handle any standard hill engineered to drive on. Off road in steep terrain I have found a couple of spots that it just didn't cut it and it wasn't able to climb. I haven't given up just yet as I am not entirely sure if it is the Monster's weakness or my ability to ride it. Downhill, I did try it down some hills that I had to use my hands (and almost knees) to crawl up. Any steeper and they would have been free fall (which I did unintentionally try for short distances:-) The Monster is pretty good at downhill. In mud and soft terrain the Monster is probably better than any other EUC out there but it is still point loaded on one wheel. Unless you go really fast, you can sink really deep:-) Did you notice that the Monster is heavy? Try pulling it out of the mud. Anyway, the top section is hollow and mostly isolated from the remainder of the wheel. The components seem to be hot glued but I doubt that is very effective. The inside of the handle was almost entirely dry. It appears that the sides are where most of the water gains access. I had water all over my control board, so yes I feel very lucky I didn't face plant even more often. The board appears to silicon coated or something similar. I was surprised to see the water coming in through the sides as I had ridden the Monster in fairly heavy rain 15km each way every day for a week when I was in Vancouver and had no issues. I think what happens is that the case flexes under duress and has a different modulus of elasticity then the side panels. This in turn will slightly open and close little gaps around the panels which if timed poorly allow water to get in. This is my theory anyway. My inability to turn off the unit is probably from water in the switch which doesn't seem very water tight. Once it dried all was well. I ended up taping around all of the joints to ensure I have a better seal going forward. I would say the Monster is mostly splash proof now as long as I stay away from the power button. I may tape some cellophane over it later to help that out. I do really like this EUC and hope that it survives my trials.
  4. 3 points
    For no specific reason I investigated the number of posts per month under the different brand names over about the last three month of 2016 (2016/09/05-2016/12/24) and about the first three months in 2017 (2016/12/24-2017/04/11), all of them but Rockwheel went down during this time. Gotway: 699, 359 (51%) Kingsong: 314, 198 (63%) Inmotion: 227, 182 (80%) Ninebot: 157, 134 (85%) IPS: 56, 38 (68%) Solowheel: 7, 2 (29%) Rockwheel: 7, 27(386%) any other: <7, <9
  5. 3 points
    My whole body is starting to stiffen up as I type this Unfortunately there's no video. I was cruising with my Monster to some good tunes on a very nice curvy sidewalk. Probably 15mph max - the tunes were definitely pumping up my speed There was an outside curve that had hedges pruned right up to the edge of the sidewalk. You know where this is going right Just as I was thinking my speed was a tiny bit too fast for the curve and the bushes seemed like they might juuuuust brush my feet - Bam! The left pedal caught, the wheel stopped, and I flew off the right side, twisting as I caught some air. Landed on my right and slid on the adjacent dirt/grass very hard. Kind of knocked the breath out of me and for a couple of seconds I thought that this might be the fall where I break something (something personal, like a bone). I lay there for 15 seconds and then slowly started moving, not wanting to injure something worse in case I was broken. After about 5 minutes of very slow movements I was able to climb back on the Monster (which seemed to be unscathed) and limp home. My right hip, groin, ribs, arm, and shoulder feel like they participated in a Monday Night football game, without my permission. The one positive take away is the reaffirmation to wear full protection when I'm going to be out riding fast. In this case I was wearing a long sleeve shirt, gloves, elbow and knee pads, and my helmet (which I wear even when I'm not going fast). Tomorrow is not going to be fun
  6. 3 points
    https://discord.gg/GJTHZ3r What is Discord? It was originally meant for gamers and real-time voice-chat however it has become very useful for everything else and for text chat purposes as well. For our purposes it's basically "IRC for the 21st century" (as @esaj put it) for euc discussion. It's a real-time group text chat that is "cloud-based" so that you can log on anytime and still see the message history on what you missed while you were offline. The @mention system works wonderfully and the private messaging system works great too. Just click the link at the top to get started. Be aware that, like anything new, it takes time to get the ball rolling with activity. Be the early-adopter and "roll the ball" (I mean wheel). Click this link to go straight to the channel. Thanks to @freetheoranges for suggesting to set up a Discord channel for this forum.
  7. 3 points
    Since I began modifying my Gotway ACM 1600 and posting updates in another thread I realized there is a great deal crossover information that applies to all EUCs. I am currently working on installing new hall sensors in the ACM but thought many EUC members may not be entirely familiar with these tiny little sensors and the huge role they play in the design of our wheels. Here is a short video I put together that demonstrates some of the basic principals of hall sensors. Edit: At 3:21 I become dyslexic(north is off)
  8. 3 points
    So my Monster took a bit of a beating this weekend. I had a goal to make it to a radio tower at the top of a mountain behind my place. This is a 400m meter climb over some questionable roads but I had it in mind that we would do it (that is me and the Monster). I had tried to get there last weekend but ran into to much snow so ended up turning around. When I returned I found my rear lights no longer worked. As I didn't have time and the Monster was still functional I left it. So this weekend I took the Monster for another assault at the hill. This time success. 10km and 400m very few tumbles for both of us and 28 minutes to success. It was a nice sunny day so I figured I would I tackle the next level take the mountain bike trails back. I wish I had filmed it as it was a series of tumbles and nail bitting down hills. At times I was leaning so far back to slow down that my heals were hitting the ground behind me. I managed to run an couple of freshets and cross a few swamps. Both my self and the Monster were covered in mud and I am not sure what else by the time we hit the bottom an hour and a half later. So I went to shut the EUC down for a well deserved rest and scrub down but it didn't want to shut off. I didn't matter how many times I pushed the power button the Monster had turned into the energizer bunny and it just kept on going. Eventually I just lifted it up and let it free wheel until it auto shut off. So then it was time to dissect and investigate. It turns out that water is able to enter the Monster from many cracks and crevices. I am sure that that was the cause of the shut off issue as I found droplets of water throughout the inside of unit. I have since dried everything, reassembled and taped off all seams. Rear lights still don't work (dealer is working on that with me) but I was very happy with the assembly of my unit (Dec 22 2016 run). All cables and connections were tight and no indication of overheating. One cable had been pinched but this was an easy fix. Anyway some of the pictures are below for those that may be interested:
  9. 3 points
    If you still have the two (or one?) other original sensors from the motor, you could try just cutting the wiring and sticking one directly onto the breadboard and wiring from there: No risk of burning the component with hot iron (Nevermind the E/B/C -markings in the picture, they're the BJT-legs). In general, there are very few occasions I've managed to burn a TO-92 -encased component with an iron (don't remember when was the last time, but it has happened). At least with normal (electrical, not gas powered) soldering irons, the "trick" is to use "enough" heat to melt the solder fast, that way the heat won't have time to spread all the way inside the casing and damage the component. For removing a wire from a TO-92 leg, you could just gently pull on the wire while heating the joint, and once the wire comes off, remove the heat from the leg immediately. Using some pliers on the leg above the heating point could also help to suck out the extra heat before it can enter the actual casing. Typical problem with component burning during soldering seems to be being too wary to use high heat, so people use too low heat and heat up the legs for longer time, rather than going in with high heat and doing the solder (relatively) fast, leaving less time for the component to heat. Of course, that doesn't mean to put your iron into the highest possible setting, in my experience, something like 300-330 degrees Celcius works nice with leaded solder (probably somewhat higher for non-leaded, aka Pb-free). In general, although it's said to be less healthy (don't inhale the vapors too much ), I prefer leaded solder with multiple flux channels ("multicore"), current favorite (although I haven't tried that many different tins) is the 0.5mm Stannol 2630, both for SMDs and through holes: http://www.stannol.de/en/products/solder-wires/?tx_produktselektor_filter[aa_prod]=2630&tx_produktselektor_filter[action]=show&tx_produktselektor_filter[controller]=Product Not the healthies option for sure, but the multicore and strong flux makes soldering really easy compared to something like no-clean pb-free tins (tried such, hated it ). For SMD-ICs, I use also (sometimes, if the pads are really small) solder paste. For desoldering, I use separate RMA-flux, desoldering braid and (as necessary) high heat, until I get around to order a hot air -station, that is... But usually when desoldering, I don't care if the component survives it or not (typically something's gone wrong with the soldering, and I just want to get the old component out of the way and replace it with a new one).
  10. 3 points
    In case of wheels, it's not the charger that's doing the balancing, but the BMS, the charger is just a sort of "dumb" constant current/constant voltage power supply. The reason why a partial charge won't (in most cases) balance the cells is the way the balancing is handled on the (cheaper) BMSs, I've never took that close of a look on a BMS, but apparently at least most simply will just bypass the cell once it reaches maximum voltage (around 4.2V), so the cells at maximum voltage will stop charging while the others are still being charged. I don't know how it's technically handled, the simplest way I can think of would be just to put 4.2V zener/transil-diodes in parallel with each cell, but AFAIK zeners aren't very precise, and could have trouble handling high charging currents, so probably there's something "more intelligent" still going on the BMS-side. In RC-hobby packs, many battery packs are just a bunch of cells without BMS that have separate balancing wires for the cells. There, the charger is the "intelligent" part, and many higher quality chargers apparently stop charging the other cells when they notice one or more cells "falling behind" (or one or more cells getting ahead) in terms of voltage, and stop charging the higher voltage cells until the rest have caught up, because it can control the charging of each cell separately. That way, the cells can be balanced at lower voltages too. The connector with different colored wires going to the socket on the top right of the charger is the balancing connector. But for the wheel BMSs (I don't know if it's true for all wheels, but apparently most), the cell has to be charged to full voltage before actual "balancing" occurs, and leaving the charger for longer while is to make sure that all the cells reach the maximum voltage, and are thus at the same voltage (balanced). Doing a partial charge, the cell bypasses won't be activated, and the cells can be left at different voltages.
  11. 3 points
    The difference of 1,5Amp and 5Amp and if its bad for batterie life depends on the packs and batteries used? yes , 5amps are not good for a 2p16 or 20s... But on a ACM or Msuper 84volt with 6parallel systems each system just gets about 0,85 Amp! a "half c" load would be 1,5 or 1,75 Amps for that cell type....and as that is just a about a "quarter C" load with 5 Amps...it is not said to do anything bad for batterie life! And one more thing for charge doctor: Your charge doctor is adjustable!! You can set the Amps or volts when it stops! (not "c"!)( i think it is adjusted to 1 amp when you get it) Hold the button on your Cd, while you are plugging in the charger...and it will come up to life with "auto" announced...and then you can adjust the auto-stop amperage or voltage by one clicks (round robin)
  12. 3 points
    Amazon ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147XEH4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. 3 points
    If something isn't quite right with a purchase, definitely file a dispute before the deadline. I'd give the seller a chance to remedy the problem, but don't become complacent and forget to file. Also don't cancel the dispute until the issue is resolved. Some sellers will pester you to cancel the dispute, but don't fall into that trap as I believe you cannot reopen the dispute if needed. Submit all video and photo evidence so it is on record. Maybe see what a replacement charger purchased from ewheels would cost including shipping and suggest as an option that the seller refund you the cost to buy a replacement charger locally. Make sure the wheel itself is functioning 100% because you don't want to be preoccupied with a defective charger issue, complete the dispute, and then find out there is something wrong with the wheel.
  14. 2 points
    Hi, I received my v8 that I ordered during the aliexpress 7th anniversary sale. The problem is it won't charge. I've tested in multiple outlets giving it a few hours on each, but the charge isn't going up (on the display or the inmotion app). I've never had to do more than ask sellers on aliexpress to update tracking or confirm shipped, so I was hoping others might be more familiar with the process, and when to move from taking with the seller to filling a dispute. The seller has been responsive up until I provided pictures of it not charging in multiple sockets. Now they seem to be recommending I have it looked at by an electrician. I think there's 15 days from receiving the item to file a dispute, so I'm not too rushed. Shipping it back is not really an option money wise(crazy expensive for the weight from the US). If they want to ship a replacement charger or something it could use up the dispute timeframe quite easily. It sounds like disputes are somewhat like eBay where it's better to file right away, since any chat outside the dispute isn't considered. Is that right, or is it okay to give the seller a few days to come up with a solution? Any advice or experiences would be great. Thanks! Edit - Found a multimeter and the charger brick is just dead, so at least it's not the whole wheel!
  15. 2 points
    GW and KS behave like this: Lay them on the side...they beep sometimes....and then go into a "break", power off...when you stood them up again...they automatically will power up again :-)
  16. 2 points
    @Esaj explained the most, as always, perfect:-) Just some standards: "Balancing" decribed just to bring all cells to the exact same voltage! Our BMS's are responsible for that, and they just do that on the last 10%! And its a slow progress....And it is done on higher current chargers, also! But just with the same speed as an slow, low current charger. do if you have 10, 5, or 1 Amp...the last 10% charging need the same time :-) At all you can discuss how much a charge balancing is needed at all....as the cells balance themself as they are serialized and parallels and so "got no other chance" as to be on same voltage :-) some cheaper BMS's did not even have a balancing "circuit".... But as said, good aproach if you are in batterie lifetime saving is....going for 85/90% all day long....and sometimes , on 10th charge or so, doing a balanced 100% charge.....(just for safety) if you have a CD...its perfect for that!!! :-)
  17. 2 points
    “The green reed which bends in the wind is stronger than the mighty oak which breaks in a storm.” ― Confucius must have ridden a Gotway
  18. 2 points
    Less landscape but still really amazing riding skills, IMHO:
  19. 2 points
    I think this is a good addition to the forums, maybe we can tone down at least a bit all the chit-chat on the forum topics and chat in Discord instead. I haven't had that much time tonight to partake in the chat (I've had really, really important things to do, like spend two hours to figure out that I put two wires bass ackwards on a board), but am planning on at least following what's going on there. Btw, you don't have to register an account unless you want to, just pick a username and join in (although, I hope people won't start spamming or trolling using fake usernames and whatnot, so we won't have even more moderating to do ) EDIT: John changed the settings so that now you have to register, and it's at least relatively easy to use (if you're familiar with IRC, it's pretty similar with nice clean interface and without having to type commands ). Try it out and see if you like it.
  20. 2 points
    Holy EUC you even built a little model!
  21. 2 points
    Did I hear my username being mentioned? Oooh gotta try this out... hope it's like those naughty chat rooms with the sexy ladies... But technically though I'm a finger pointer of thread derailers. There's a subtle difference there.
  22. 2 points
    Perfect addition for @Hunka Hunka Burning Love , @Rehab1 , and other self-proclaimed thread-derailers.
  23. 2 points
    Yip! i always thought that, too! But...the "cycles" are getting longer i recognized....as the wheels are getting better and faster and more range... Would you think you will change your monster in the next one or two years? I guess, speed and range wise, we are near the max....i would vote for reliability and redundancy now :-) And with 5 Amps you are at 90% in about 4-5hours... :-) i use my 4 amp charging now often for filling up again after. morning ride....wheel at 40-60%....doing 1 or 1,5 hour to reach 90 again.... haha...and i only have two wheels ;-)
  24. 2 points
    I think (as I type this) that my view is I won't own my wheels long enough to care about a drop in battery performance. That may change with time (I've only been riding EUC's for 9 months), but right now those are my thoughts.
  25. 2 points
    for usa: the announced prices on 1rad are 119%....you should minus 19% for the usa, also! or am i guessing wrong? no taxes expert :-) edit: checked! no Vat outside EU! to do a 90%charge.....i know its hard to miss this 10%.... :-) have that prob on my 1000wh plus wheels, also! but doing 90% allways will probably double your batterie cycles before the batts go down a bit....
  26. 2 points
    @Marty Backe best is to contact them by mail! (but link from @meepmeepmayer works!) you can also choose something like a always 85 or 90% charge version or like whatever you want...the owner of 1rad can adjust that for you! just be patient as his english is even worse than mine, haha.... As charging the last 10% is same fast with a 1,5Amp or 10 Amp charger.... So for example use a new 5 or 10 Amp charger....which did not go over 85-90% for allday charging and batterie life.... And every 10 or 20charges use your 1,5 Amp standard charger todo a balancing.
  27. 2 points
    For everyone who thinks about getting a 5 Amp Charger or more....and please: nobody take that as offense against speedyfeet, who is doing a real great job! what follows now is just a tip of saving some money!!! The chargers speedyfeet is using...and selling on his website, seam to be bought from 1radwerkstatt :-) you can clearly see the round unique printed 1radwerkstatt sticker design on top of the chargers...to see on speedys website, and good seeable in his last 1000mile testride video! And so, what everbody can guess now, they are a good amount more expensive(up to 50%)from speedy than buying them direct through 1rad webshop! Saved money can better go to the charity of the 1000mile ride ;-)
  28. 2 points
    I haven't been here long enough to know much about "the old times" (a few months ago). Another idea, less new wheels coming out/being available to the masses, so less manufacturer specific discussions? Looks like it might help if you can get the overal user/post number development.
  29. 2 points
    Uh ok I misread it. Maybe the old people are dieing and the young ones are all on Facebook?
  30. 2 points
    @jrkline no I'm not a ham (although my wife would probably argue differently) but it is on my hit list of things to do:-) I should have said Cell tower. I used to be a radio tech many, many (did I say many) years ago and had to service broken equipment on similar towers. I guess old habits die hard which is why I referred to it as a radio tower.
  31. 2 points
    I have have been requested to do a video about the maximum speed of Active Track as feedback from the tutorial. DJI claim the max speed is 15 m/s - 55kph - 34mph, let’s find out ;-)
  32. 2 points
    Speaking of going up an incline. The video I link to below is well worth watching. Sorry it is Facebook and I can't help that. The individual testing the 16S goes down an very steep slope and then incredibly he goes all the way up the slope again. He estimates a 30 to 31 degree slope. The thing that is extra relevant to this discussion is be sure and look at his feet. He is literally standing on his toes (balls of feet) on the front of the pedals with his heels not even touching in order to get the power he needs to move forward. I thought it was odd when I saw it, but it goes to what @Trucktent is reporting. https://www.facebook.com/groups/kingsong/permalink/1233254950083876/ (The video really is worth a watch. Impressive climb.)
  33. 2 points
    Not any practical number to even care about. Them lights are using like ~3W (give or take a watt). Same thing has been discussed earlier around Ninebot One EUC (don't know if I can findt it right now) and measurments were presented there. Consumption was too low so I've never cared about that since.
  34. 2 points
    I personnaly have no experience with an Dispute, so i can not say anything about doing it directly or to wait till the end of time.... But i also would give the seller a Chance before disputing.....how else can he have a Chance to help you? Also: To the Charging: Did you plug in the charger into the wallsocket first -before pluging it into the wheel? For some wheels this is a really important step..... Also i remember i read about some V8 Charge Problems before...perhaps @Jason McNeil has some insight or some tips?
  35. 2 points
    kingsong is doing all, To make their wheels more secure and safer... They use the best Mosfets and boards...thick wires and have a mich better quality than GW... unfortunatly most buyers just and only look out for the best performance...and that's what GW delivers...
  36. 2 points
    I may buy a V8 for errands around town or a little fun night riding. But otherwise I'm firmly embedded in the Gotway camp. My criteria for a wheel is simple At least 30 miles on one charge A minimum speed capability of 20mph A motor powerful enough to climb steep mountain trails Gotway currently has three wheels that meet my criteria, and I own them. KingSong technically meets them, but just barely. I like to be able to ride at 20 - 23mph and still feel like I have margin. Gotway consistently ticks all of my checkboxes. I don't know why KingSong doesn't make any performance wheels that match Gotway. I wish they did.
  37. 2 points
    My handle also broke on an impact in a similar spot as you said it is not the most robust case. There are no hidden screws as such. I just removed the side panels, unplugged the batteries (too much unbridled energy to free by accident) and removed them. It is not really necessary to pull the batteries if they are glued down but it does make it easier to deal with. There are screws on both sides of the top handle that need to be removed and I pulled the inner case on the none control board side ( there are a pile of screws holding it on the pedal but they are easy to get at. The two halves slide together and are easy to slide apart. Removing the little corner tabs gave more access to the inside of the handle. It took me a couple of hours from start to finish as I was looking for any signs of faults in connections and wires. Have fun
  38. 2 points
    I would be very nervous about riding my Monster down such steep hills. With other wheels, not such a problem if you lose control. But with the Monster, it weights so much and is not constructed out of the most toughest of plastics, it doesn't do well when it hits the ground hard. Thanks for the pictures. From a previous crash where the plastic insert in the handle popped out, and the light panel is loose, I need to remove the outer shell to see how I can re-secure things. Do you have any advice for separating the two halves of the shell? Just remove the visible screws and that's it?
  39. 2 points
    There's a saying on this forum somewhere that goes along the lines "there are only two types of EUC rider - those that have already fallen off, and those that are going to fall off". Welcome to the rather non-exclusive club, hope you heal up soon!
  40. 1 point
    There is a similar topic on the Russian EUC forum, and it is gaining popularity due to the frequent contributions of outstanding EUC artist - @Дед62. I got his permission to re-post his work here in the hope that it may inspire other artists and will extend the gallery of our favorite gadget. I believe you will enjoy this creative work. Feel free to post in this topic any other image which you consider to be relevant to "EUC art" Happy EUC Sailor Tricks With Violin Taxi Winter Evening With The Wheel Ambulance Delivery Battle of Kulikovo (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Kulikovo) Parade Beach Towing Services Man and His Friend Icarus Bogatyrs (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viktor_Vasnetsov) comments from left to right: - ... what a mess... - ... and where is your power plug, Popovitch? ... - ... mongols fricking stole it again... Medieval Tournament London 1920 The Moving Guy Burlaks (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barge_Haulers_on_the_Volga) all praises go to @Дед62
  41. 1 point
    I don't know. Did you get the VAT reimbursed when you bought wheels from Speedyfeet? Same should apply here - buy in EU from outside. Maybe Ian somehow combined this with US import costs (are there any?) so you did not see what happened behind the scenes. If you need help with contacting the guy (aka in German) I'm available!
  42. 1 point
    The idea was, now that the "easy" initial posts (wheel review etc) are out of the way, posts like brand comparisons etc would be in General as they do not fit one manufacturer alone.
  43. 1 point
    oh for sure - nothing beats common sense and safe practice
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Does the LED in your charger shine in red/green color when you plug it in (without V8 connected)? Or does it stay unlit? In my V8, the charger works even if I plug in the charger to wheel first and then connect the mains plug. I usually do this on my e-vehicles to prevent sparking in the charge connector.
  46. 1 point
    It is definitely challenging to start up on any degree of incline. Once it gets going there is plenty of power. It is like taking off in 3rd gear. Had a chance to try out a couple other brands. The 16" V8 does not have a sluggish start or any of the 18" Solowheels I was able to try. Turn up the initial starting torque. Starting on your tiptoes with a full lean while you wait for it, wait for it, wait for it, it's starting to move, glad I didn't tip over, now it's rolling, is not a good thing. I let a couple experienced riders try the 16S. 'Once it gets going...' Is a comment I heard more than once.
  47. 1 point
    Now I know what happened. The name is not good. It suggests connotations of fire. After the hoverboard fires, maybe they changed the name or went out of business. IPS seems a good name, after you research it. Intelligent something something. That is my problem with IPS. I can never remember what all the letters stand for! They seem to make good wheels, but geez. Gotway seems good at first glance. As does Kingsong. Ninebot sounds futuristic, but is ambiguous. Inmotion is a good name.
  48. 1 point
    I think makes sense to be latched only!! This way the signal may have less noise than other way.
  49. 1 point
    like on all wheels the packs are configured in parallel...and so charge parallel. have to be so, cause the voltage of different packs is not allowed to be different, so that you can not charge only one! you can use a charge doctor with to inputs, to use 2 chargers, or just use a self made parallel connection, which puts 2 chargers together, and then use 2 "paralleld" chargers. or even more.... and like said ...all KS and Gw wheels are with thick enough wire, to stand a 5 Amp charge.....only if you go higher the charge wires in the wheel have to be changed.
  50. 1 point
    Welcome! Riding EUCs is amazing but the manufacturers specifications are far from reality... Personally I wouldn't recommend the V5F+ over 80kg, I think it won't be so strong for you.. You need more power at the bare minimum 800W preferably 1200W or more. I have this wheel since July I'm about 70kg and if I put on a 10kg backpack it starts to feel a bit weak. I would call it a comfortable 20 km/h cruising speed +/-3 km/h (tiltback is agressive from 23-25 km/h, alarm goes off at 25 km/h). I get about 30km range down to 25% battery level, I don't ride below that if I can help it. I can go 35-40km max but then I ride carefully the last 5-10km. In lower temperatures lithium batteries will give you less range, it drops off pretty fast below 5°C. Also as the batteries age some capacity will be gradually lost over time. The range for your weight will be less and it's winter soon.. It's a great high quality wheel but I think for your weight it's lacking power and range. If you can hold out a couple of months the Kingsong KS16S is coming out it should be great with 1200W. If you can't wait the current KS16 is a good option too with a good internal trolley handle solution. And price should be lower as the new model will take over soon. Gotway ACM is another option with more power and speed but trolley is not great.. Inmotion V8 is a very nice wheel but range for your weight is lacking and I think it's a little too tall (can't fit under the legs on the train). There's also the new KS14D but again the range will be lacking and from what I saw the trolley on it seems a bit too short, it seems designed for the shorter chinese and kids if they don't improve on that part. That's my shortlist of the more portable wheels... For all EUC specifications don't count on getting much more than about 50% range and 80% speed from the stated values. Of course for a first wheel you can get something cheaper.. Riding these things might not be your cup of tea. But pretty much everyone who goes for it loves it! However the high end models have a steep price tag. Wheelgo is a great european reseller highly recommended by the way also Speedyfeet very popular. Most riders who get a cheap wheel then upgrade after a couple of months already, so in my opinion get something good from the start and have a nicer experience. Whatever you ride stay around and wear protective gear!