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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/31/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Surprise update: lots of interesting information from Ian/Gotway! Quote: From Gotway they have confirmed that the cables were not routed properly. They have updated all staff to make sure they are routed correctly. They have also put in place a procedure where the connectors dont run along side each other (they are in a new position, not along side it other) to help with heat dissipation. Secondly they have added heat protection sleeves to the cables. Please see attached picture. I think with these changes they have learnt from the failure and changed process to match (as well as the change in connector style - since Dec 2016), the new wiring position process has been in place for the last month apparently). end quote He believes the same problem won't happen again, I still won't do that hill again but that's good to hear, no danger (knock on wood) with newer wheels with the improved cabling. -- He also had the clever idea to try and have GW send me a new wheel (without batteries) directly, so I could just swap these (easy, just some plugs) and it's good. Less work for him and I'd have an extra battery-less wheel for playing around with (ideally, just some cables are damaged, but apparently there might be more hidden damage) so win-win customer service here, nevermind if it works or not
  2. 7 points
    Here's a few clips from my typical daily ride on the beach bike path through Hermosa Beach, King Harbor, and Redondo Beach in California. It's my first attempt at a video. Still trying to figure out the angles.
  3. 5 points
    Long story short: I got tired of people asking me "what is that?" so I made business cards advertising this site. I hope you guys don't mind. If you want to print them out yourself, I've attached a Microsoft Office Publisher document that you could use to print these cards out on regular paper. Publication1.pub
  4. 5 points
    From all the new boards and motors that I've seen shipped from GotWay and other manufacturers, they already come with connectors and everything in place ready to plug in. They also come with tires and foot brackets installed, but not pedals. It's simply a matter of removing Motor and Motherboard, and replacing. But, you need to use new Heat Paste on the Heat Sync to Pedal Bracket, and put new glue on wires where they plug into MB. If not done correctly, you can heat up again. I would suggest Ian do this since you have not gotten into this before. He will also inspect for any other damage, and from what I've seen of his warranty work, he's pretty thorough. I'm sure he's not posting anything yet since he has not personally seen the wheel, (like you say, premature). After his inspection, if he finds a need to post, he definitely will. He's not shy about throwing things out there when they need to be. If this is a one off problem, he may not bother. It does happen. I'd be curious to see what the new routing is on the wires. That's a very simple fix for everyone to do. It probably consists of not having them lay right next to each other, or next to any metal that can short them if hot. Also, adding heat shielding is user friendly if you don't have any on there now.
  5. 5 points
    With your Kind of damage i would let Ian repair that! A complete Motor and board Change you will certainly not like to do.... Very good that they Change the complete Motor, cause who knows how far the wires are melted even inside the Motor!
  6. 5 points
    The wind was crazy today! I saw a sailboat get tossed into the King Harbor pier by a big wave. All four passengers made it to shore.
  7. 4 points
    It can also jump from ground to your hand! Guess how I know! When getting hit with the spark from a high output coil, it's above 40,000 volts and feels like getting hit by a hammer! I've had it happen many times over the years.
  8. 4 points
    Maybe they need to use wire separators like they do with spark plug wires to keep things separate. Or just use thicker wires from a redesigned motor to start with and not have to deal with these problems? If wires are getting that hot to warrant using heat sleeves for protection and not to protect the wires from external heat that seems to indicate something isn't quite right to me. It's sort of like buying a hair dryer, but noticing that they have a heat sleeve all the way down the cord... The cord gets warm during use, but it shouldn't be hot enough to melt or cause problems for adjacent cords.
  9. 4 points
    My buddy and I riding in a plane and EUCs to go get some good Texas BBQ.
  10. 4 points
    You say GW will spend a new Motor...and a new board. I would guess that a new Motor, means just the Motor, no rubber tyre, no pedals! So you would not only have to completly dissasemble the ACM, also you are needing to Change the tyre and the pedals to the new Motor. As your Motor cables are burned/melted very hefty, a Motor Change is a wise Thing! Otherwise you risk that the wires are not only melted where you can see it, they couls also be defect inside the axle, where they are "packed" the most! This dont have to be, but at least -if no complete Motor Change-i would inspect inside the old Motor then.... Then also: You have had a very respectable short because of the melting...who the hell knows if not some parts of the boards are damaged now! That said...that is all work for the seller...in my opinion! Beside the shipping costs: From German law that would be the sellers part, also! But as this was a european Business...i would not insist on that..perhaps yoou pay sending to Ian...an he when sending it back to you.... What i find a bit unusual is that Ian didn't say anything more about it....after he posted the "footrest braking" photo/warning on his Website...i would exspect that he warns his customers about very hefty or Long steep inclines, also!
  11. 4 points
    What you describe here applies to almost any EUC. None of them are safe and can be dangerous. Just saying.
  12. 4 points
    Wow, that's some incredible footage that you shot. Only a few views - you need to post it somewhere - that's the makings for a viral video They must have been terrified when it was capsizing - glad they weren't injured (which is amazing)
  13. 4 points
    Omigosh, I've never taken sailing lessons before, but are you supposed to have your port or starboard side facing the waves directly like that? I guess with a wave that large hitting it with the bow at an oblique angle would have flipped it anyways? @meepmeepmayer - I think it'd be my dream to quit my day job, hit Jason McNeil up to hire me to do an RV Mobile EUC Demo tour of the US. I'd tow a small trailer with a bunch of different EUCs selling them off where ever I stop. I'd get a Mavic and document my trip on Youtube. I actually took a month long trip down the Oregon coast just hitting the State Parks and meandering my way almost down to San Francisco. It was a great trip, and the EUC would have come in super handy as getting firewood and hiking along all the trails takes so much time. @Joey Serrin That Sherpa is CRAZY! Excellent concept to design work. It's so cool that you got all the batteries and everything inside the wheel. Now that's thinking um inside the wheel? Outside of the box? I'm confused... Sherpa Golf anyone?
  14. 4 points
    Here one of my designs. I call it The Sherpa. **Coming Soon is an offspring of MAX and Sherpa** eta 1 month
  15. 4 points
    Using a simple Inclinometer app on your phone should provide you the incline (lay the phone on the ground). Thousands of ACMs have been sold and apparently working in the vast majority of the cases. You have the bad fortune to experience one of the outliers. Get it fixed and then enjoy the wheel
  16. 3 points
    What tire pressure are you running? I found with my old generic wheel with a similar pack, I could squeek out about 5-6 kms maximum with my 167 lb rider weight. With 211 pounds yeah that might cut the distance down a bit. 22 kph is pretty good for a lower end wheel if it is going that fast. Mine tilts back at 12-14 kph and has a stated 18-22 kph which I never tried approaching. The extra speed you're going at could be draining your pack faster. Maybe try riding at 14 kph and see how far you get. Cold temperature also has a bad effect on battery life. I was going to try to upgrade the battery, but there's just no room in the shell for anything so I didn't bother. Wait a bit and soon you will be itching for something with a bit more distance!
  17. 3 points
    Yeah, mentioned above, the chargers were wired wrong.
  18. 3 points
    A quick film from Bromley Skatepark in South London. I'm a bit rusty at present as I haven't had a lot of time to practice. Skatelite surface = Super fast penny spins
  19. 3 points
    Thank you! Really helpful! Thanks! The 3 hall sensor holes were marked for appropriate reassembly. Live dangerous? Did I mention this will become my wife's wheel? Many thanks for all of the great information! I ordered the US 1881 through SparkFun Electronics but cancelled the order earlier today. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9312 The US1881 meets all of the specs I have been looking for ( i.e., latched, correct operation voltage and temperature range, size , etc) but is not 'Bipolar' which, through my research, is an important part of the switching capabilities. I am still wrapping my head around all of this but here is a video that explains the bipolar functionality. I ordered the Honeywell SS466A sensor. http://www.jameco.com/z/SS466A-Honeywell-Hall-Effect-Sensor-20mA-Bipolar-Latch-5-Volt9-Volt12-Volt15-Volt18-Volt24-Volt-3-Pin-Bag_1915915.html Really hope I made the right choice! The 6 sensors (in case I screw up big time ) will arrive next Tuesday. I purchased high temp epoxy for the install. Many thanks to everyone that has contributed!
  20. 3 points
    That's pretty insane. Interesting to see the slow learning process - better and better with time. Seems familiar
  21. 3 points
    Gnaaarc...This Picture with the "added" heat protection sleeves...is nothing real new, or? :-) Fact is that they just forgot all this sleeves on your wheel ;-) Even on my -october 2016 V3- there have been these heatsleaves installed. Otherwise: Great News from Ian, i really hope you get a new wheel directly!!! That would be the best solution for you AND Ian. I hope they will make this decision fast....if i would be you.....my wheel would be allready in Ian's Workshop ;-)
  22. 3 points
    To the daisy chained question: ALL KS wheels -except Ks16S- have "daisy chained" Batterie packs, BUT: I have to learn (from Chris-1Radwerkstatt) that this is also a parallel connection, so 4 Amp charging is no Problem, the 4 amps are shared by all packs, and not only that: This Daisy chain Connection is the only Connection that makes the BMS work in all Kind of conditions and situation!!! If you parallel Batterie packs like for example GW did earlier...you have a Kind of dangerous Situation for the Batterie packs, as because of the true paralleling you Bypass some of the BMS protections, as the packs are now directly connected! Like said, this is a Statement from Chris, who trully knows what he is saying! On newer wheels like the ACM and V3 GW implemented because of that another direct Connection between the paralleled Batterie packs, which, in case of BMS Alarm, Transfer this to the other pack, also....... On the KS16s the packs are not paralled by Y-Cable, they are paralleled on the board in a specific Management, so that this BMS "Bypass" is not going to happen....
  23. 3 points
    Let me share pictures of EUC motors: - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor-EUC1 - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor-EUC2 - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor-MicroWorks-500W-30km-h Isn't possible to use the spare holes?? If please note that the space between the hall sensors should be the same as original. I am not sure on this but I believe hall sensors are just used on very low speeds and for changing direction, after than that, the firmware will switch to an observer and ignore hall sensors signals - there are some advantages, like avoid any possible problem with all sensors when going at high speed, since at very low speed should be not big issue. Unfortunately I do not have any good idea to resolve your current issue, other than what others already told: remove the hall sensor and replace with a new one (like the references talked before). I think they are "kind" of compatible with most of them. If the signals are just use for slow speed, there should be no issue for the firmware to have ones that differs a bit between them. I really love all the information you are sharing!! IMO, the power cables insulation against high heat are the best improvement. About board temperature, at least MicroWorks board reads the temperature and protects the system with it goes high: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/MicroWorks-30B4-30kmh-controller-board-with-bluetooth#Max_temperature_protection Good luck!!
  24. 3 points
    Are you alluding that my warranty has been compromised? I agree with the consensus!!! Send er Back! If you decide to send it back we may be able to speed up the shipping process. I am having trouble finding parts in the US so I am taking the Gulfstream G650 to China. There is plenty of room for you and your busted wheel and a stop over to see Ian would be no problem! Seriously, like @Hunka Hunka Burning Lovepointed out I would inquire about shared shipping costs as round trip could be expensive!
  25. 3 points
    I'd vote for sending back to have it repaired if you aren't familiar with working on electronics. As well for future warranty purposes it's nicer to have the dealer work on it so they can't blame you if something fails again. Are they going to cover shipping or are they going 50-50 on it? They can also do a thorough postmortem to maybe figure out what really went wrong.
  26. 3 points
    What a bummer that you are required to repair it! What other industry treats their customers in that fashion? And no mention of what exactly caused the malfunction? Did they ask for any of the components to be shipped back for inspection? As for the board, the 3 motor wire leads that exit the PCB should be attached. You will probably have to connect the those wires to the actual motor leads. Hopefully they will provide the connectors! Take lots of photos as you disassemble the wheel and use separate holding trays for each batch of screws as there are numerous sizes and styles. How does this affect your warranty? Best wishes! I will help you anyway I can!
  27. 3 points
    I am learning a lot about Hall Effect Sensors but I have not been able to locate the exact sensor yet. Hopefully tomorrow. A Gotway representative did email me with a quick note for me to contact the seller. Nice! I don't think The Green Fashion Travel Shop will be of much assistance locating the proper sensor but I emailed them anyway. No response yet. I did find out that the sensors used in the GW ACM are considered 'Latched'. I am not sure about other wheels but I assume they would be identical. Here is a nice little video explaining how these sensors work.
  28. 3 points
    Standard charging rate for most of the 10A cells used in EUC battery packs (in 18650 format) is 0.5C, maximum charging current is usually 1C. Since the KS16S uses 3500mAh cells, 0.5C would be 1.75A per cell = 7A for the entire pack. Actually, since the capacity to use for this calculation is the minimum and not the nominal capacity, it's more like 3400mAh x 0.5 x 4 = 6.8A I don't know which cells they actually use, but it could be an LG MJ1 for example: https://eu.nkon.nl/sk/k/Specification INR18650MJ1 22.08.2014.pdf So for the KS16S or the KS18, 4A is still well below a standard charge, but for smaller models using only 2 parallel rows of cells and maybe lower capacity (3000mAh), 4A would be more than a standard charge, although still within limits for a 1C charge. I guess they just wanted to keep it simple and define one standard charging method which is OK for their entire product line, or there is a limit imposed by cables or circuits between the charging port and the battery pack. I wonder what Chris from 1RadWerkstatt thinks about it, he would know for sure if the KS16S can handle 4A chargers.
  29. 3 points
    I'm sure that he's buying the ACM because it's currently the best EUC on the planet
  30. 3 points
    After now 15 months I am right before the surgery to take the metal back out. What’s left over: arthrosis in the ankle and a lot of experience how to survive surgeries and hospital’s.
  31. 3 points
    Here's the info I received on the reason to limit charging to 2A. "Seems someone at KS thought it a good idea to route the charging cables through the control-board. It's entirely possible that this new improved layout might not be capable of supporting the 4A charge rate. "
  32. 2 points
    Time will tell if I made the right choice. The little buggers are sure cheap! Anxious me they are being shipped 2 day air which cost 3x the product By the time the wheel is finally back together I will Bipolar Meds anyone? Is this enough persuasion?
  33. 2 points
    I wonder why they don't use that braided fire resistant wire like they have for stoves. I've had to replace the burner connector on my stove a couple of times, and the replacement kit comes with this pretty durable braided sort of wire insulator. I think it's meant to resist the high temperatures around stove elements, and I've seen similar wiring insulation that goes to halogen sockets. If they don't want to use a larger diameter bearing to accommodate thicker wiring to reduce heat, maybe they should use a wire that can better resist the heat coming off the wire? Take for example: Maybe something like this? http://wirescable.com/1-1-3-insulation-braided-wire.html
  34. 2 points
    Well... had a friend ride beside me on his bike with a bike computer. And that said 22km/h. Was supriced my self. He had a hard time following along But its because its not just a Pinwheel, its the T1F (F for FAST ) Oh just a little side note: If anyone reads this and thinks about buying a Pinwheel! STAY A WAY FROM Pinwheelonline.com.... They are nice to answer you untill you a have an issue. Then they stop answer you at all..!!!!
  35. 2 points
    One thing worth mentioning, after you learn to ride better, you will likely want to upgrade soon. Instead of (or in addition to) getting a new battery pack, you might want to consider upgrading to a better wheel. You'll likely hit the limit of cheap nonames and "smaller" manufacturer wheels very fast, and want something faster, more powerful and with more range. Just a thought. Replacing the battery is not a bad option, especially if you want to sell the wheel onwards later on, although, for pure practice purposes, 3km might be enough for the next owner. But if the cells are already going bad, the thing might also become a fire hazard down the line... Not meaning to scare you But it is a possibility, lithium battery fire is no joke.
  36. 2 points
    That is fantastic news! Your due diligence and wherewithal has paid off! Congrats! Correct! @meepmeepmayer'S picture depicting the new sleeves is (or was) just like mine before the rabbit chewed on them. I hope GW makes sure your insulation on the wires is tight up against the connector!
  37. 2 points
    3km sounds way too low for 190Wh, even with your weight. Likely there's one or more bad cells in the pack, or the cells are of dubious quality. There are packs available in sites like Aliexpress, Amazon or eBay, but the quality and price can vary. In EU, http://www.1radwerkstatt.de/en_GB is probably among the best places to get custom batteries built. It'll likely be more expensive than getting from somewhere like Aliexpress or eBay (or not, depending on VAT and customs rates), but then you won't have to second-guess the cell, BMS or work quality. The last I checked, the largest (single) packs they made were 210Wh, made from original LG MJ1-cells.
  38. 2 points
    Did you know that EUCs have been legal in Finland since 1.1.2016? The legal limits are a maximum of 1000W nominal power and 25km/h top speed, units with a maximum top speed of 15km/h are considered pedestrians from the legal point of view, above that, same as bicycles (with some exceptions, like allowed to ride on walkways with "speed adjusted to pedestrian traffic"), see for example here for details: http://www.kaleva.fi/uutiset/kotimaa/segway-ja-muut-kevyet-sahkoajoneuvot-ovat-jatkossa-laillisia-kulkuvalineita-liikenteessa/716277/ Kevyisiin, enintään 15 km/h kulkeviin laitteisiin sovelletaan jatkossa jalankulkijan liikennesääntöjä, eli ne rinnastetaan potkulautoihin ja rullaluistimiin. Isompia, enintään 25 km/h kulkevia sähköajoneuvoja saa käyttää polkupyöräilijän liikennesäännöillä. Segwayn kaltaisia tasapainottuvia kulkuvälineitä saa käyttää myös jalkakäytävillä, kunhan niillä ajaa enintään kävelynopeutta. Isommissa laitteissa täytyy käyttää polkupyöräilijän tavoin kypärää ja niissä tulee olla heijastimet ja äänimerkinantolaite. Or for the full law text (somewhere in there, plus the details probably spanned more parts of the law collections than just this): http://www.finlex.fi/fi/laki/ajantasa/1981/19810267 Sooo... technically the faster/more powerful wheels are still illegal. Take a wild guess how many police officers actually can identify the different models, or test drive them to see if they go faster?
  39. 2 points
    If you want to live dangerously and maybe do some useless work (in case they don't work correctly), you could try replacing the hall-sensors with the latched US1881's mentioned in the video. Datasheet: https://www.melexis.com/-/media/files/documents/datasheets/us1881-datasheet-melexis.pdf TO-92U US1881EUA in Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=US1881EUA-AAA-000-BU&v=413 ($0.97 per piece, price-break @ 10 or more $0.851 per piece) TO-92U US1881LUA in Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=US1881LUA-AAA-000-BU&v=413 ($0.95 per piece, price-break @ 10 or more $0.84 per piece) At a quick glance on the datasheet, the only difference between the E- and L-models would seem to be the allowed operating temperature, -40...+85 degrees Celcius for the E-model, -40...+150 degrees Celcius for the L-model. Why the higher temperature model is cheaper, I have no idea. Maybe they buy them in bigger bulks and can sell then at a lower price? Anyway, you could get 5 pieces for $4.75 or 10 pieces (at the pricebreak) for $8.40, didn't check how much the shipping is. Probably they're available elsewhere too, at roughly the same prices (I ordered mine from Aliexpress, where they are cheaper, but you probably won't want to wait that long: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-pcs-U18-US1881-OH188-1881-hall-element-sensor-switch-IC/1902951183.html 10 pieces @ $1.50, probably the lower temperature range model or even knockoffs ). I'd still suggest getting at least one spare in case something goes wrong with soldering or miswiring, or gluing or whatever. I have no idea how "standard" the pinout for hall-sensors is, for example in the US1881's and A3144E's I have the pinout is not the same. Luckily, since all the sensors use the same power lines (VCC and GND), it should be relatively easy to see which is which: The red wires bundled together are likely the VCC, and the bundled black wires are GND. Nevermind the 10K resistor in the picture (it's the pullup I mentioned earlier, you won't need that), this shows the sensor pins from the text-side. Judging by this and your photo, it would seem the pinout is the same as the originals (although depending on which way they're inserted in the motor). Just make sure that the signal wires (yellow, green and blue going to the "digital OUT"-pins) are in same order as in the original. For tips on the actual attachment, refer to the PDF that @Hunka Hunka Burning Love posted earlier: https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorHallSensorReplacement.pdf Do note that you'll likely need to separate the stator and the rotor. Good luck
  40. 2 points
    Curious to know if the shopping cart method works. I have tried to teach multiple people how to ride and It's always a struggle since everyone learns differently. I always thought that a shopping cart may be a good way for someone to learn. I'm not too much smaller than you (I am 6'1 and about 230 pounds), and learned on a much less powerful wheel (Airwheel x3). It was a very frustrating experience and I "gave up" about 3-4 times before finally figuring out how to ride it straight. Figuring out how to turn was the next step. Like the guys above said, padding the sides is a must...you will tear your legs up trying to learn these things. Once you get comfortable on it, you won't need the padding anymore (at least I didn't). Good luck and have fun! Once you get it down, it is the most fun way to travel.
  41. 2 points
    Wenn sich die Batterie lehrt, sinkt die maximale Spannung, die sie liefern kann. Diese Spannung wird benötigt zur Sicherheit (z.B. irgendwelche plötzlichen Hindernisse ausbalancieren, plötzliche Beschleunigung aus anderen Gründen) und da die mit sinkendem Batteriestand kleiner wird, regelt sich das Wheel runter dass genug Sicherheitsabstand zwischen dem aktuellen normalen Fahren und maximal lieferbarer Leistung da ist. Weil der Ninebot ne recht kleine Batterie hat, passiert das wohl schon ab 40%. Andere Faktoren spielen wie von @Gimlet erwähnt auch eine Rolle - Gewicht, Steigung, alles beeinflusst die aktuell zum Fahren benötigte Spannung, die muss eben eine gewisse Differenz zur maximalen Spannung aufweisen, und letztere hängt massgeblich vom Batteriestand ab (und der Temperatur, kalt = schlecht). The available voltage decreases with the battery level. This voltage is needed for safety (balance sudden obstacles, other reasons for sudden acceleration) and as it decreases with the battery, the wheel will slow down to keep a safe distance between the current driving voltage and the max available power. As the Ninebot has a quite small battery, this apparently happens from 40%. As @Gimlet mentioned, other factors play a role - weight, incline, everything influences the voltage for driving, which has to have a safe distance to the max voltage, and the latter mainly depends on battery level (and temperature, cold=bad). Trotzdem viel Spass mit dem neuen wheel! Und, falls zutreffend, bisschen Diät machen, das lohnt sich dann gleich doppelt
  42. 2 points
    Your weight and the gradient of the road will have a big effect on when the warnings kick in. All present eucs have difficulty giving high power outputs once the batteries are down below half charge. That's the reason so many of us pay a lot more money for the maximum battery size when there is the option, despite having no real desire to take on major long distance journeys.
  43. 2 points
    With the amount of cells the big (parallel) packs have, the amperage shouldn't be a problem, but the GX16-3 is rated for something like 5A max. Going above, you might risk the connector overheating and the plastics might begin to melt 1RadWerkstatt has 8A chargers for the largest packs, but they come with different connectors or multiple GX16's in parallel (don't remember which), because the current is too high for the single GX16. Also, didn't older (not S) KS16's have packs (2 x 16S2P?) that were daisy-chained? If only the first pack in chain is charged directly by the charger current, then the amount of parallel cells there (16S2P?) is the limiting factor, although if it's two in parallel, I think it should still be ok for 4A...
  44. 2 points
    Sorry I did not get back to you on that! I tried all types of solvents: acetone, mineral spirits, goo b gone, but unfortunately the epoxy they used is really stuck on! I thought about slowly grinding away the epoxy this morning. It would be great to know which sensor they used!
  45. 2 points
    I see no reason to give current EUCs more regulations than regular (manual) bikes. The exact same "unsafe new rider, old lady does not know, etc" concerns apply there too, and somehow still everything works without people having to do a bike license. Don't try to predict what will and will not happen, look at actual facts. That should be the base of any regulation. I can fully understand @dpong's frustration when even people on the "right" side come up with unnecessary limitations.
  46. 2 points
    Yes, I've been riding with @captainwells almost every week. Sometimes we go to Torrance Beach and sometimes to Venice Beach. Always a great ride unless the wind is blowing from the west at 20mph
  47. 2 points
    Yes, I used to have radio controlled off road buggy toy things that used an older type of battery that everyone recommended draining the battery completely before recharging, to keep the battery performance high for a longer time. It was said that if you did not drain it completely before recharging, it would develop some sort of memory, and take less and less charge over time and the R/C car would have less run time, in other words, it would still go as fast, but for a shorter time. You could even buy or make a load made up of a bunch of small light bulbs to attach to the battery to totally drain it to empty. This was back in the 1980's. You don't want to totally drain today's batteries. Really you can't anyway, because today's technology protects the batteries from total discharge. So nowadays you don't have to worry about it too much, just charge it before a ride and store it at less than 100%. Nowadays it seems that close to 0% or 100% are the most stressful for lithium ion batteries. But I think it is more harmful to fully drain them than to keep them fully charged. It was said a few years ago that car batteries (totally different chemical composition) would lose half their life every time they were drained to empty and then recharged. Esaj posted a great link to battery university that has loads of interesting information.
  48. 2 points
    I think you @Geowurm and @Bob de Bie have had the worst EUC accidents I've seen on the forums. @EUC Extreme also had a bad collar bone fracture where I think they had to splint it with a metal framework. Can't find the photos though... EDIT: Found it:
  49. 2 points
    Hey, I recognize that line! The information from a 16S Customer was that initially the Wheel charged, then stopped on the subsequent attempt; this evidence led to the incontrovertible (& erroneous) conclusion that it was a fault with the Wheel, possibly associated to the higher charging rate. Based on what we now know (one of the wires was on pin 2 instead of pin 3), it's not known what, if any, risk is associated with 4A charging with the 16S. Because there are four parallel packs, there should be ample margin for this load to be shared among the packs, so this could very well be a CYA move to limit warranty claims for poorly assembled battery packs or something else.
  50. 2 points
    My 9 month old Son's first "ride", under very controlled conditions - one of us is enjoying ourselves, the other appears rather indifferent to the experience The buggy actually steers very well.
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