Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    Hello, I can't find the section presentation, sorry. Then I come here, I use Google translation I'm sorry, I don't control any English, I'm already struggling in French, laughing. Anyway, I'm a French Wheeler as @Hirsute. I'm Wheeler since June 2014. My name is Jean (Nhut) I am now a fan of's mode of transport. I like the Street and Freestyle. I also organizes a lot of output of electric mobility. Here's my YouTube channel. I hope you enjoy my videos, enjoy. And if you spend a day in France in the city of Nancy, you will be welcome to our outputs Wheelers. Good evening
  2. 16 points
    Ride responsibly and Wear suitable protective gear! = Safe Speed = 70kg rider >40% charge. Heavier rider or lower battery? Ride slower! 21 km/h - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 21 km/h - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 22 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 23 km/h - Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) 25 km/h - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 28 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS16B (680/840Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway ACM (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 35 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh) 35 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) 45 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) = Real Range = 20-25 km/h urban commuting, 70kg rider, not aggressive riding, not offroad, above 15°C ambient temperature, not hilly, not windy, new good condition batteries (5km rounded). 20 km - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 20 km - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 20 km - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 20 km - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 20 km - Inmotion V5F (320Wh) 25 km - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V5F+ (480Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 40 km - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS16B (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway ACM (680Wh) 40 km - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (680Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16B (840Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 50 km - Gotway ACM (820Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 50 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (820Wh) 55 km - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 80 km - Gotway ACM (1300Wh) 80 km - Gotway Msuper v3s (1300Wh) 100 km - Gotway ACM (1600Wh) 100 km - Gotway Msuper v3s+ (1600Wh) 105 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W, KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) 150 km - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) * Real Range calculation: Capacity Wh / 16 = km Inmotion V8 example: 480Wh / 16 = 30km * Peak power calculation: Fully charged, new good condition batteries (100W rounded). battery pack voltage (serial) * number of packs (parallell) * nominal discharge rate * 95% switching efficiency Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) example: 84V * 4packs * 10A * 0.95 = 3192W The standard battery cells used in EUCs have 10 Ampere nominal discharge rate. Dynanometer tests have shown the batteries have not delivered any more in practice so 10A was used for all calculations. 15-cell pack = 63V * 10A = 630W 16-cell pack = 67.2V * 10A = 672W 20-cell pack = 84V * 10A = 840W 95% efficiency (5% waste heat) * Safe Speed calculation: Ninebot One S2 (310Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Ninebot One E+ (320Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Gotway MCM4 (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14C (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14D (420Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 141 Zero (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) : 550W nominal, 1600W peak √ 550W = 23 km/h 23 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1323W OK. Inmotion V8 (480Wh): 800W nominal, 1600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 25 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1563W OK. Gotway MCM4 (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS14C (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16B (840Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16S (820Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway ACM (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh): 2000W nominal, 2600W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh): 1200W nominal, 5100W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh): 2000W nominal, 3200W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Monster (2400Wh): 1600W nominal, 8000W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh): 2000W nominal, 5100W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W OK.
  3. 16 points
    I sent Lewis a V8 to try out, (he has 7.1m Subscribers!) gets a decent airing, especially at the end....
  4. 13 points
  5. 9 points
    It is possible. I have many requested permission to race in this. No one refuses. I do not understand why. My Gotway is fully capable of it. Horizontal can run.
  6. 8 points
    I do not think of any reason why would not be possible to drive the barrel horizontally in a circle. This almost do it. Is added to a speed .. I have every intention to try this. Now, at the moment there is a request to an abandoned ball to the owner, to get them to drive there. But I can not get the person to contact.
  7. 7 points
    My guess would be that the connectors don't actually heat up enough to melt the solder (around 183-190 Celsius for leaded compounds, but since these are probably RoHS-compliant, it's non-leaded with melting point somewhere around 215-230 Celsius or so), but that the soldering job wasn't that good on the first place. Should the connector temperature rise that high during riding, I'd expect the plastic parts of the connector to melt first or at the very least show signs of melting... Even if the wires don't move around inside the compartment, there's a pretty constant vibration going on when the wheel's being ridden, and over time, the bad joint comes off due to this at some point. Making proper joints on copper connectors requires that both the wire and the connector (or at least the area where the contact between them is) get heated high enough for proper "wetting action/intermetallic bonding" to take place (ie. it's not just a blob of solder holding things together, but the materials have partially "welded" together, forming a combination of the metals). In the above, "Cu6Sn5" is an alloy formed in the junctions (or interfaces, or whatever is the correct English term) of the materials from the tin (Sn) in the solder and copper (Cu) of the connector/pad/wire/whatever during soldering, ie. the copper has also melted and mixed with the tin to form a strong bond. Large tip, high heat and flux helps...
  8. 7 points
    Starting to get a little more comfortable on the V5F+. The angle of the pedals is really hard to get used to, but I am more stable. The hardest part is getting my second foot in the right place, but I'm sure it'll get better over time. In the meantime, both my kids have gotten over the initial hump and are happily zooming around the neighborhood. They had a really hard time getting started. They did the balance by a wall trick, then I walked beside them for a while, but they almost immediately lost balance as soon as i let go. Most of the time, the remaining pressure on my hand is so light before I let go, but it's like they've come to depend on it like a crutch. Also, I think that having one side keep your balance may be handicapping them. I read a couple of tips about pushing a shopping cart and that kinda made sense to me. They'll be on their own and the balance aid is in front of them instead of on one side. I thought it would be easier to compensate front & back since the EUC already helps them do that. However, I couldn't just go out and steal a shopping cart and I couldn't let them practice in the parking lot of our local store. Luckily, we live in Florida and there are no shortage of walkers in garage sales and on craigslist. Purchased a used one with wheels for $20 so the kids could practice on it. After about an hour each, they got the hang of it and never looked back.
  9. 6 points
    Hi guys, After about 9 mouths and 1360km of riding my trusty Gotway MCM4 V2 HT (high torque) version and also 2 weeks on the (deceased) F528, I was starting to want a little more speed, a little more power, the MCM4 is a great overall wheel, reliable, agile, endurant (680Wh version), but my friends all faster wheels, and I was slowing them down, the MCM4 has a max real speed of 22kph (tilt back), so I have been riding it mostly between 19-21km/h with a range of 45 to 60km. I had the chance to get a KS18A 680Wh, but I weight only 60kg and I am not very tall, I found this wheel hard to steer, plus very slow to respond maybe because I wasn't putting enough weight on it, also it only had about 35-40km range, however I could get 28-30kph real speed ! So I sold it again, and started looking for another wheel. I had 3 in mind, the Gotway Msuper3 (that I had the chance to test, a beast !), the Rockwheel GT16 (very promising fast wheel) and the Gotway ACM. I also thought of the KS16S, but I didn't know when it was going to come out and I am not very patient. After thinking for several days, and with your help, I finally chose the Gotway ACMs 1300Wh, and here are my thoughts : When it first came, I though it would be heavy as hell (19.7kg), but I find it easier to lift than the KS18A, I think it might be due to my arme being a little more upwards when lifting the KS18. One of the screws wasn't tightened enough, but nevermind. I charged it (took about 8 hours...), it is very long to charge imo. It smelled good, but I wanted to test it, so my first ride was during the night, after putting the tilt back at 35kph & closing first & second alarm. I didn't push it though as it was the first charge and I barely saw anything on the road. Nex day, I've done 40km at low speeds on a mountain road with very steep climbs, it got it's first scratch due to riding too close to a rock (but no falling), but it was rock solid all the trip and I could feel the power of the wheel. At the end of the journey, and with 40% battery left, I pushed it to see it's max app speed, I was able to get it to 45kph but didn't feel safe at all because I was getting so much wind in my face, but no 80% beep !! For the next ride I've installed a bike odometer to mesure precisely the speed, but I've put the tiltback at 42kph to be safe, the weird thing is that the app does show a false speed (between 2 and 4kph more than real speed) but the tilt back seems to be at real speed, because I've hit 41kph on odometer and no tilt back. So far I have done 170km on it in only a few days !!! It is agile but not as agile as the mcm4, it takes some time to slow down and get to speed, but the power is always present, the wheel is very stable at speed, I think the highest safest speed on this wheel is 30kph, i've pushed it further, but I won't be riding faster than 30kph unless I need to double someone, I feel like these +8kph was exactly what I was missing before. I am well aware of the dangers of falling at theses speeds, the mcm4 shut down on me at 32kph real speed, luckily I fell on the grass with no damage, this ACM will not shut down on me by keeping it under the 40kph, it's impossible in theory because with my weight even at 45kph I couldn't get it to beep ! It does shut down at 50kph due to overspeed, that is why I wouldn't put the tiltback any further than 45kph. As for the range, I've done 61km max on one trip, and the gotway app shows 40%, so with the 25kph average speed, that's awsome and plenty enough. Here is a pic, showing that even with 59km in (about 40% battery) with very high front wind (25-60kph) in can still easily go up to +30kph and maintain with no beeping ! Overall I am very happy with my new wheel, I'll probably keep my mcm4 for some shorter trips as it is easier to carry around or maybe trying to learn some tricks with it. The ACM is fast, safe (if not going faster than 40kph) and powerful, I can't say for the reliability but I hope it'll last a very long time as I will be putting some thounsands of km in it ! Compared to the Msuper3, it is more responsive, but a little less robust, and I little less stable at speeds.
  10. 6 points
    Now in the works in Gyrometrics : New map Dashboard. See where you are going More languages Ninebot S1/A1/A2/Mini? Continue to better calibrate wheels And a very interesting project for travelers (I need help from everybody) A Screen that shows the local normative / uses Probably a Gyrometrics Pro Fork (sorry, routing maps must be payed, trying to understand the cost) Maps with Bycicle Lanes!!! Finding places (by name, address...) Automatic routing and driving instructions in the same dashboard So no more changing from GoogleMaps / Apple Maps to Gyrometrics.
  11. 6 points
    The gyros are multi-axis, for example the MPU-6050, which is used in many wheels, has 6 axes (3-axis gyro + 3-axis accelerometer): https://www.invensense.com/products/motion-tracking/6-axis/mpu-6050/ The MPU-9250 is 9-axis (3-axis gyro + 3-axis accelerometer + 3-axis magnetometer). I don't know if that's used in wheels, the magnetometer axes are reference to the magnetic poles of the Earth (so kinda like a 3-dimensional compass). The reason for using gyro + accelerometer seems to be that gyros tend to "drift" during use, but the accelerometer data can be used to offset that, as used in "sensor fusion" algorithms to enhance the resolution/precision. The accelerometer can also be used to sense which way is down (at least when stationary), because the gravity will pull the axes vertical to ground downwards at constant acceleration (if a single axis isn't exactly vertical, two or more axes will receive a fraction of the acceleration), my best guess is that's what's used in the wheels to detect the "0-position" at start up. The above is a microcontroller detecting the direction of gravity using a 6-axis accelerometer/gyro, not at a very good precision (could also be due to the low resolution of the led-matrix), but I guess the principle is the same.
  12. 6 points
    Like every other skill you need to learn by practice it is a "muscle memory" you will develop. Keep practicing and your foot will eventually land in the right place by itself almost. For a very long time the large amount of street furniture we have meant there was always something nearby to lean on and I got lazy but also embarrassed as the only time I didn't have something to lean on was when stopped by people blocking my way, resulting in a "walk of shame" to the next lamppost. The only place there wasn't anything to hold on to is in my garden on the lawn, so I practiced out there helped by the soft landing if I got it wrong and hindered by the bumps. A local park would work just as well. Try as I might I find riding one legged too painful, but I keep practicing that in the garden as well particularly whilst circling as that leans the wheel away from one leg. The useful outcome is I can now move one leg enough to adjust it while riding so practice that as well even if you have no intention of being the next Sideshow Reny or Hirsuite.
  13. 5 points
    Definitely a silly question (and I'm not suggesting anyone try this @EUC Extreme ) but could a modified Electric Unicycle (whose control board algorithm was programmed not to cut out when the wheel exceeded approximately 45 degree angle) be ridden on a "wall of death"? If Yes, How fast would you have to ride on a circular wall with a diameter of 10 meters with a combined wheel/rider weight of 100Kg? Would some of the forces involved prevent or restrict a rider from leaning forward on the pedals?
  14. 5 points
    It has an IMU, which consists of gyros and accelerometers combined. Accelerometers measure g-force, which is the "gravity" force as perceived by the device (i.e. in a free falling state it would be 0, in super-acceleration it would be multiple times the earth's gravity etc.). gyroscopes measure change of orientation in a way unaffected by the g-force (i.e. in a car riding straight and accelerating, the g-force makes you feel as if the car's front moves up, but the gyro doesn't record that perceived rotation change). AFAIK, the question is thus if the EUC controller uses only accelerometer data (that would make it totally fit for the wall of death) or a combination of both (that may, or may not cause trouble, depending on how much the gyro data is factored in, i.e. the gyro data could only be used to reduce jitter on accelerometer data). It can't use only gyro data, because that's always relative, i.e it has no objective point of reference, and not too accurate due to drift over time (i.e. turning back and forth with a same angle a few times will not bring you back to the original angle values)
  15. 5 points
    Having toured the Gotway facility in Shenzhen in Oct. 2016 with @Linnea Lin Gotway ,The assembly area is a room with workstations butted together 2 abreast down the center with less than 50 total.All assembly appeared to be done at these stations as there were the new v3's in various stages of assembly at different stations(no automation),so if the connectors are assembled at Gotway as opposed to being already attached from the outside vendor who supplies the control boards,then they are all hand soldered.Every component appeared to be assembled by hand.The assembly area at the King Song facility is very similiar.Not enough product volume to justify expensive automation.
  16. 4 points
    Yeah, there's nothing wrong with hand made, unless one of the workers is ham fisted, or inept, or didn't understand the training, or doesn't give a shit, or has a grudge against the company, or had a bad night, or is hung over, or is sick but doesn't want to take the day off, or whose soldering iron is malfunctioning, or they left their glasses at hipbone that day. Other than that, hand made is perfect ( I'm joking of course). I think one of those workers @jrkline walked past is the "Typhoid Mary" of the Gottway production line.
  17. 4 points
  18. 4 points
    You seem to operate under the false assumption that lack of automation precludes first-class manufacturing.Tell that to the buyers of the McClaren car who typically pay more than $1Mil and wait over a year for their assembled by hand supercar!
  19. 4 points
    I believe @EUC Extreme is already determining the best methodological approach to perform this stunt. Act 2: Tight rope ride over Niagara Falls! I believe @Jonathan Tolhurst knew all along that EUC Extreme would take the bait.
  20. 4 points
    Loved the InMotion experience. Smooth, refined, confidence building. lighter than Ninebot and loved the handle. I just used the handle and pushed it around parking lot for the sake of it because I can! Felt good not carrying it. Had hard time adjusting it for first few minutes coming from NineBot. Strangely I didn't feel it is a 14 inch wheel or it has higher pedals. Felt very normal during the rides. I'm little concerned about the durability of that button under the handle that disengages the motor when you lift the wheel. So many times it gets pressed. Hope it last the life time of the wheel. Of all the features, I still liked the Ninebot shape and design but not the ride. So now my go to wheel is InMotionV5F+...Anyone wants my Ninebot One + for $499?
  21. 4 points
    @ChrisI took a few photos and a video of the strap system I have used in the past on both my NB1 and V5F+. The belt strap approach leaves your hands free while first learning to ride. On the NB1 I fastened the strap to the handle using a large wire tie wrapped around it. On both wheels the strap is fastened securely around my belt with Velcro fastening. There is enough slack left in the strap so you can easily stand upright. Anytime I am trying out a new riding technique I use the belt/ strap method. This strap method would not be conducive if you are performing elaborate stunts like @Sidestreet Reny, @Hirsute or@Jonathan Tolhurst?
  22. 3 points
    It's kind of ironic,but "Typhoid Mary" may be the perfect description for my visit.It was on a Tuesday afternoon and no one was working in the assembly area.It wasn't a production line as much as a "ghost line".Then again,it could just be that a lot of Chinese take long lunch breaks. I concur.It may also just be a bad design.When I first started supplementing my wheels with extra batteries,I was surprised how the two types of connectors commonly used for the battery connections had no holes to insert the end of the wire through to acheive a better solder connection like you find commonly on switches and such.Whenever I add a connector for an additional battery,the first thing I do is drill little holes in the connector tabs to insure a much greater solder connection and lessen the possibility of failure due to vibration.
  23. 3 points
    Or a trained monkey. No, I'm not volunteering....I'm not trained.? @Rehab1 "abandoned ball" look up a few posts. See the spherical cage? That type of ball, only abandoned. Must have been at chernobyl or pripyat. ?
  24. 3 points
    @Frode wrote..If I tilt my King Song KS-16 in the forward or backward direction and then turn it on, it will slowly (within some seconds) align itself to the vertical drection. How can it sense the vertical direction if it only has a gyro? I've watched my 14c do the "ouch my back, it's so hard to stand upright, but I'll try, ahh, ahh, ahh, that's better" after starting it on a tilt. Very amusing, it reminds me of...me, when I get out of bed, or get off the couch, or get off the toilet, or get up after a face plant or...... edit. Written while @esaj was writing his " more" technical response. So redacted as necessary
  25. 3 points
    Bravo. It's rare indeed to be able to juxtapose Typhoid Mary and EUCs, but very fitting. I salute you
  26. 3 points
    If a company can sell not one, but two unicycles to a customer 6000 miles away, they can certainly reply to emails and ship a logic board to a customer who is adamantly asking to pay for one. Your replies were not helpful in any way.
  27. 3 points
    22mph is way too fast to fall off. I hope you are okay now. Have you opened the wheel and checked all the wires? After a crash at that speed, the wheel could be damaged and unsafe at any speed. At that speed, the wheel must have tumbled many times before stopping. Just think what all that high speed flipping, smashing, and bouncing might have done to the sensors and wires, not to mention the batteries. What is the condition of the wheel, anything break?
  28. 3 points
    By the way it depends of the sensors (which I do not know). If the sensor is like a gyroscope, it will try to maintain the direction to the universe (or axis Z will be steady), so it isn't working in our case. But if it is as accelerometer, probably it will be directed to the centre of the Earth, or centrifugal forces. I don't know. Probably it is possible.
  29. 3 points
    I'm thinking that the epoxy might help form a physical bond between the wire's outer covering and the plastic connector. Google seems to indicate that epoxy degrades at 350 F or 177 C so I think it should be okay? Hopefully the outside of the wire doesn't get anywhere that hot. As long as the epoxy is able to adhere to the wire and connector it might work? I haven't applied epoxy to wire shielding before so I don't know how well they bond so if you can find some heat shrink tubing large enough to get over the connector and that will shrink enough to grab onto the wire that might be the best way to go. The epoxy idea just popped into my head when I made that post as I don't know if heat shrink tubing would shrink enough. Basically we're just trying to get some insurance so even if the solder melts that the wire isn't going to come out of the connector. Marty might be light enough so that it isn't a concern, but maybe for a heavier rider going up a steep hill, the current draw to do so could possibly produce some high temperatures? Add that to cheap solder, and it could be a recipe for trouble? EDIT: Or even maybe using some silicone sealant to bond the wire to the area of the connector might help. http://heatshrinktubingdirect.com/adhesive_lined_polyolefin_shrink_tubing.html
  30. 3 points
    I also previously posted a list of suggestions in the Kingsong facebook page (here). Some initial responses from Tina, so I'll duplicate it here for consolidation purposes. Please refer to the FB post for comments from members and Tina. 1. Allow user to select different angles of pedal tilt-back. More safety-minded users might prefer a stronger tilt-back, especially at higher speeds when a gentle tilt-back is not obvious enough. Tina replied that this was a good idea, and they will consider it. 2. Allow user to select the response/speed that the pedal will tilt-back. Some users might prefer the tilt-back to kick in faster, so that he is warned in time when he is accelerating quickly. Tina replied that this was a good idea, and they will consider it. 3. Allow user to set PIN for bluetooth connection, so that other people will not connect to his wheel without his permission. User can also choose to have no PIN. Tina replied that this was a good idea, and they will consider it. 4. Allow user to do a factory reset (using the physical buttons only) so that all settings are back to factory default. This is useful when user wants to change a completely different profile, or if he forgets his bluetooth PIN (see my previous suggestion), or if he is trying to troubleshoot his wheel. There must be different sounds for success and failure to reset. Tina replied that they currently do not allow this due to after-sales considerations. Reset can be done by local retailer/distributer. 5. Allow user to change the "Hello KingSong" greeting message. Either disable it, or replace with another sound. If not, at least lower the volume because now it is very loud and some people will glare at us. 6. Allow user to rename their KS device in the mobile app. Perhaps in the app and/or phone so that they can easily identify which is his/her wheel BEFORE connecting to it. This is very useful if there are many KS wheels around, and the app was not able to connect automatically (went into "Scan" mode). 7. Before updating a new firmware, do a check on the wheel to make sure it has no problems (e.g. incompatible board, unresponsive APIs, etc). Another way is to allow the user to do a test update, where the app will go through the flashing process just to confirm that things are working properly (but the new firmware is not actually recorded into the wheel). This idea is similar to the way some CD/DVD burning software (ImgBurn test mode) allow you to do a test burn before doing the actual burn. This is to reduce the risks of problematic or failed updates. 8. KS to control the distribution/sale of boards This is to avoid firmware update problems for users due to corrupt sellers/retailers/distributors (i.e. Ninebot). REJECTED feature requests: 1. Allow user to reverse a firmware update. The intent was if a user did not like a new firmware and wants to reverse the firmware update (e.g. version 1.22 -> 1.21). Or if an existing firmware introduced other (worse) bugs). Right now, user has no other solution once the new firmware is flashed. Tina replied that new firmware should be better than previous ones. So I assume KS is not going to provide this feature. 2. Allow user to enable/disable pedal tilt-back. Tina replied that they do not allow this due to safety concerns.
  31. 3 points
    One battery and one switch for the LEDs I just added foam to make it same level as the battery
  32. 3 points
    Hi @Silverbrewer. Two suggestions for you... 1. Always ensure your second foot is beside the pedal (in line with the axle), not behind it. This should ensure your centre of gravity doesn't shift and spin you around. 2. Practice "walking" - so standing as above, but rather than mounting, roll forward, then step with your second foot. Keep rolling and stepping... As you gain your balance, roll more and step less. Finally, with both of these put together, you will be "roll-starting" - pushing off (skateboard style), and putting your second foot in place while moving!
  33. 3 points
    @Chris Westland Try moving your feet further forward on the pedals if you're having trouble going forward. Don't worry if your feet stick out a lot in front of the pedals.
  34. 2 points
    Nice impressions... and crazy speeds! 45km/h!!! Just make sure that you don't kiss the asphalt when there's a slight bump, incline or other obstacle (even just a less smooth surface) - it might not take much to add 20% to an 80% load and then you're above 100. Interesting to see how 60kg weight allows you to go that fast (and far!!! It's like monster range for other people!), I wonder how that would work with a 70 or 80 or 90 kg person. You definitely have a great safety margin for normal speeds! I agree with your safe speed opinion: up to 30 km/h is very pleasant and fine, above that one starts feeling less safe (I did try that only very little). Can you tell anything about the torque difference between the ACM and the MCM4 HT, is there a difference on hills? How does the difference manifest? Which one is better for what?
  35. 2 points
    Yes I agree - he must be the first human in all time to be able to accelerate from standstill to 30 kph+ in under a second. I'd certainly like to see the video
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    @EUC Extreme that was just too much fun ! I'm SO going to look for a skate park around here. Who's your friend? Back to the subject; it appears science would not allow a wall of death EUC ride, but @EUC Extreme and friend seem almost to have achieved it here. Yes I know they're not going rounded and round a vertical tube, but they get close. Maybe it would work, after all, did you know that scientists have proved that the bumble bee cannot fly?
  38. 2 points
    @jrkline you insist upon raining on our ever hopeful visions of Gotway and KingSong as first-class manufacturing enterprises. Please let us have our dreams
  39. 2 points
    More specifically, I should have said Heat Shrink Tape for this particular case.
  40. 2 points
    Of course, there should be sensors, but the reality is that there are not and under this reality I don't see a better solution.^1 Somehow even worse, the Uniwheel had such sensors but never made it into the market beyond the built prototypes. I am sure future wheels will neither spin out when free running nor shut off when ridden, but I am also sure we are still living in the present, though wait, it feels like the future, I am confused... ^1 Though ideally the cut off speed should never be reachable under normal riding circumstances, that is, it should only be reachable when going downhill or with heavy tailwind.
  41. 2 points
    I agree with @Carlos E Rodriguez, there should be sensors in the wheel that know if someone is on it and so does not cut off at max speed, but gradually slows them down. Tiltback is supposed to do this, but apparently can be bypassed or overridden. That seems like a firmware problem. Has anybody ever had a cutout on a genuine Solowheel? We see so little about them in this forum.
  42. 2 points
    I could see how one could disable the auto-shutdown over a certain degree tilt feature in firmware, but how would one apply enough forward lean pressure if gravity is pulling sideways? That's an interesting physics question to think about. I could see rolling around the lower half of the sphere, but as you approach the horizontal equator area how can you maintain a forward lean?
  43. 2 points
    Hallo Zusammen! ich habe es nach intensiver Suche geschafft erneut eine Online-Versicherung abzuschließen und ein Kennzeichen zu bekommen! und zwar als -elektrische/elektronische Mobilitätshilfe(Segway) -Farhzeugart 9999-sonstige -bei Angabe der 17 stelligen Motor/schlüsselnummer habe ich meine 12 Stellige Gotway motornummer aufgefüllt...das ist der einzige Punkt wo man ein wenig "schummeln" muss - kosten 77 Euro(mehr als Mofa wg. Punkt 1) Keine weiteren dummen Nachfragen gekommen, keine ABE Oder COC oder so nachzuliefern!!!! wer daran Interesse hat: (BITTE: Dann keine ""dummen"" Nachfragen an die Agentur....damit dieses Schlupfloch noch was länger und vor allem für viele aufbleibt!!!) PN an mich, ich werde diese PN aber nicht jeden Tag beantworten können....also bisschen Geduld!!!! Wer eh nicht gut wenn jetzt sofort jeden Tag neue "Segway" da aufschlagen...
  44. 2 points
    This is Pegasus: I am disabled and unable to work, so I have a lot of free time. This project might take a year to finish, but having had the A3 change my life so fundamentally, I am very determined. STRUCTURAL PLAN: - Two EUCs, each having a square side frame on one side, bolted to the foot pedal / plastic cover threads. - The square frames are connected to each other by four arms with ball bearings: At the top and bottom, both front and rear, to enable sideways tilting in bumps and when cornering. (Not sure about the implementation, I think just ball bearings do not take side force too well.) - A box shaped lower frame in the middle, connected to the midpoints of the arms, pivoting with ball bearings. - A partial reversed bicycle frame with the rear wheel hub attached to the front of the lower box frame. Bicycle frame swivels up and down for main suspension, using ball bearings in the bicycle's rear wheel axle. - A shock/spring combination joins the rear of the lower frame to the bicycle frame, achieving the main suspension. When a bump in the road compresses the spring, the EUCs tilt forward for acceleration. The suspension in the A3 works a bit like this. - Smaller springs from the ends of the lower arms to the lower frame, to center the sideways tilting. - A cable bolted from the middle to the handlebar's turning horizontal tube, pulling each end of the cable while turning the handlebar. Each end of the cable pulls the top end of each EUC's gyro board forward, fooling the EUC to slightly accelerate, and the other to slow down slightly. Handlebar/cable is centered with springs. OTHER IDEAS: - A cheap smartphone secured in the center of the handlebar, only for running the control app as a dashboard. Charges itself constantly from the EUCs' batteries, or only while recharging the EUCs. - Fitting both EUCs' chargers in the frame, allowing to recharge both EUCs with a single, regular power cable. - A switch for alert beeps, a light, or both. Beeper(s) are located at the handlebar and lower in volume. - Battery power activated via a turning key, can't be powered on without. - Standing support leg, operated with a foot only. - Soft and comfortable saddle, with small springs. My back likes a soft suspension. Complicated? Yes, quite a bit. But I already ride the Airwheel more than my car, so it is going to be worth it. I was thinking about individual pivoting arms and suspensions for each EUC, but the forward tilting main suspension would still be needed, so I'm not sure it would be that beneficial.
  45. 2 points
    And btw: If you look for wheelers Store on Google..... Monday it's closed!!!!
  46. 2 points
    Ok...i for my part find that a Little harsh....to get to this "conclusion" because they did not answer until now, as it is not even 24hours since Sunday night.... Most of the small EUC Business i know are even going normal working to make a living.
  47. 2 points
    Great advice! I watched a bunch of videos before getting on an euc. I also put padding under the pedals, where calves will rub against the sides and the top edges. Oh, and I got a luggage strap - another awesome tip from this board. Basically went from regretting my purchase decision to can't wait to get back on in about 3 hours over 3 days. First day, I spent 15 minutes just standing on the thing beside a desk and getting a feel for the balance point. Then I spent another 15 minutes trying to roll forward and back while beside a wall. Finally, 30 minutes of getting my ankle chewed up by the pedals as I continuously tried to mount, fail, get the beast swinging on the strap and scraping my ankles with the pedals. Ended the day thinking about what to put in the ad to sell the ankle monster. Second day, it was back to the drawing board. I setup my sawhorses in a series and used that to get upright and as a launching point. I also got an email from Jason with some tips including grip tape on the pedals. That trick definitely helped keep my foot planted. Before the grip tape, my foot would slide on the metal pedals as soon as I use my calf to leverage against the side of the euc. Anyway, back to the sawhorses. As soon as I leave the last sawhorse, I would get anywhere from zero to 5-6 feet. More ankle bashing, some toe slamming, some ankle twisting - nothing serious. No face plants. After an hour, I was tired, my lower back needed some Advil, my calf has a bruise and my ankles were bleeding through my socks. I retreated back to my garage with my tail between my legs. Third day (today). I watched more videos, read up on more tips - especially @Silverbrewer's advice. I bandaged up my ankle and went out early morning to give it another go. With the saw horses to the opposite side from where I was pushing off on, I practiced my skateboard-like launches. When i started doing the scoot and push, I also started to zero in on where my first leg was most stable. If it's not in the right place, I wouldn't be able to push off on a straight line. When it was, I had a good takeoff. Then it all clicked together and I was 100+ feet from where I started! Pretty soon, the wobbles, which had to have been from a defective euc , went away and I was actually enjoying it. I rode up & down my cul-de-sac a few times and even ventured around the block a couple of times. I decided to call it a win when I made a complete round without falling off. My next adventure - LEFT TURNS! Anyway, thank you to everyone for the advice and tips. This forum rocks! For those, still struggling, keep reading and keep trying different techniques. Something someone has said will be the one thing that will give you the "Aha!" moment. It's probably different for everyone, but it's all here, just waiting for you to try it. One last note, thank you @Jason McNeil for shipping my kids' IPS a130s first. I was able to practice and trash theirs while getting to this stage. Now, I think I'm ready for my v5F+, which is getting here on Wednesday.
  48. 2 points
    Do you mean the app has been collapsed? Can you send me some pictures or videos? we need more information so that we can solve it quickly, thank you very much. runrui.meng@iamips.com
  49. 2 points
    Newbie here! (Few hours)) I can mount unaided, but it is more of a lift second foot into place, stand still for a tenth of a second like a demented pillock, then lean forward to get some movement. Because of this duff method, the direction I end up going is somewhat arbitrary, but not bad.. in a quiet industrial estate I have been a total of a couple of miles with various wobbly turns, a road hump, up hills downhills and moments!!! I need to develop a mounting process that is more a case of with one foot in place, launch forward gently and at the same time lift and place the second foot in a nice flowing movement, with me and the all equipment heading off as one in the direction I actually need to go!! My question is, relative to the direction you wish to go, where do you "throw" the initial body lean, to get the whole shebang (wheel direction, body launch direction and bloody hell, I've done it, direction to coelesse into the gracefull launches I see you guys doing :o( Is it a case of chest facing 5 degrees to the right of intended direction, throw body 2 degrees left of intended direction, then guide wheel right of intent, then left, then stabilise in the direction of travel.... or none of the above!! Loving it so far. Rog.
  50. 2 points