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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    So, finally the weather was reasonably nice, so i could do some range testing. Conditions: partly sunny wheather, ~5 kn of wind, 7°C. The landscape around here is rather flat, with some slight waves, elevation differences around 20 m. cruising speed was mostly around 20 km/h. Rider weight with clothes: ~85kg. Tire pressure 3,5 bar. I took notes during the ride of distance and battery status. All readings taken immediately after dismounting if not stated otherwise. Summary: Some comments on the measuring points and distances travelled: 5,93 km: starting of with a long flat incline, 3 km, then mostly flat. Mosly paved bikeways, some gravel trials. Last 1,5 km going through a town. 8,03 km: mostly slow driving around town, many pedestrians 11,52 km: nice level cruising on mostly asphalt bikeways. No wind. 14,73 km: some rougher trials, some inclines and declines. Went groceries shopping, so after this stop my backpack was ~4 kg heavier. Second voltage reading after shopping, roughly 20 min. 17,08 km: Undervoltage alarm kicked in. Luckily by then I had reached the top of the "wave" in the landscape. Also the wind hat turned and picked up, so I had some headwind. Again, some better and some rougher trials, even grass and a little mud now and then. 19,87 km: Back home. During the decline the battery recoverd to 35%. The rest was mostly level, and less wind than before. Still some juice left, so I will call this 20 km range. 23,65 km: some hours later I wanted to find out how much juice there actually was left in the battery. So I rode around the streets until the low voltage warning kicked in again. I rode more agressive than before, many corners, hard acceleration etc. I am pretty statisfied with this outcome. 23+ km of 20 kph cruising is what I hoped for, but more than I dared to expect. Before the battery extension I could do about 12-13 km of 20 kph cruising. So my assumptions at the beginning regarding less voltage drop due to more cells in parallel and especially cells with lower internal resistance seems not to be entirely wrong. I checked the balancing now, after discharging, and the cells are all within a 10 mV span, so I'd call that rather good. At least that's how it was before I added the batteries. The rearranged wires seem to like their new places, none has moved anywhere it shouldn't have. Here is an impression of the rougher trials. The wheel handles this perfectly.
  2. 3 points
    Yes I agree with @Smoother. "toast" means "broken, destroyed, dead, etc." in slang.
  3. 3 points
    Hi. Some observations : It looks cool. that rear cut out in the body will throw a line of water right up your back when the roads wet that rear cut out could entangle a limb or piece of clothing the name is horrible its less manoeuvrable than an EUC ( can't turn in a small space) it doesn't eliminate face plants; nothing to stop rider continuing forward when a wheel stops dead at an obstacle i can't see how the rider would stay upright on hills ( but you may have a system in place ) , no hills in your video its as big as a small bike so it doesn't save much space, but gives you no place for your hands, so no face plant protection, like a bike has you can't fold it like a folding bike, so it's less functional for commuters im not sure a castor wheel is a good idea except on a supermarket trolley, and even then we've all used a trolley where one castor just won't stop flipping from left to right. There's only so much leaning into a turn on a castor, before gravity pulling the wheel sideways starts to fight with the drivers intended turning radius. I notice you make almost no turns. i think your machine has serious manoeuvring flaws which you conveniently didn't show in your video. More like a commercial that an informational piece. so in conclusion, it's just ANOTHER transport toy, it solves no current problems, other than its probably easier to learn than an EUC. But at least on an EUC, once you have learned, the form of the machine becomes an asset not a liability, as in this case. It's like a bike from which you can never remove the training wheels. imho. Nice try. Well done for actually getting something off the drawing board and into a functional, attractive prototype. But I think you already know all the points I have mentioned, and probably more besides. Did you really think at least one of us wouldn't notice? And I bet I've missed several "problem areas" too. Keep inventing, maybe one day we'll all be riding one of your inventions, just not this one.
  4. 2 points
    I tried to make a 2 wheels self-balancing stuff, I'd like to know how do you think about it? Thanks a lot.
  5. 2 points
    Last night I had a rant at another member, openly in a thread. It was wrong and I should not have done it. what I should have done was addressed my issue with the member via private message. don't go looking for it, I deleted it ( hid it) because no one else needed to read it who hadn't already done so. i have since contacted that member respectfully, via pm. i apologise to any member who was offended by the language, or content. and I apologise to the member here publicly, for potentially embarrassing him, although, I actually think he cannot be embarrassed, and that was a complement. ( name withheld, because not doing so would be a second form of public "calling out" which is not appropriate either.) next time I get hot under the collar, I'll wait a full hour before pushing "send". I'm sure that will prevent any further silliness on my part.
  6. 2 points
    OK ... here are some other ideas (didn't you ever wonder what the StarWars characters look like under the plastic armor?)
  7. 2 points
    Investigated an issue a bit deeper overnight. Application connects to a number of Chinese servers. Tried to block those one by one, and spotted the one that is used for IP geolocation: It is used for all other services also unfortunately (account, social, firmware updates). So, there are 2 workarounds for the problem: Disable network, start app, connect to wheel, enable network and use all the App features. If you do not care about inmotion social services, you can block an access from your phone to IP permanently. Option 2 requires a bit more magic: For non-rooted Android phone, you can use NoRoot Firewall app, but this way you will have to have firewall always running. For rooted Android, you can use a script attached to add IP to rejected list. it will work until next reboot unless you make it autostart (e.g. by putting to /system/etc/init.d/ folder) For iPhone users, you dont care about money anyway, so just buy a new wheel Hope this helps someone. If more information needed - shout. IPTables.sh
  8. 2 points
    WAIT ! WHAT ! BACK THE TRUCK UP! your 14c motor DIED under you and it was TOAST !!!??? Firstly I'd like to thank you for using the word "toast" today since the toast bike mini was posted here a little while ago, and @John Eucist pointed out the euphemistic use of that word. now, seriously, what happened to you wheel? What caused it to cut out and toastify? Enquiring 14c riders want to know...need to know.
  9. 2 points
    Yes, please don't be shy, if you've been killed on a EUC, please post for the benefit of our group. I've had three serious spills on different EUCs, and many others tumbles, where nothing except my ego was bruised. I pushed a generic clone wheel too fast and, after a cutout in front of a group of teen girls, earned a nice egg above my left eye after a classic faceplant. My second serious crash was when I clipped a speed bump with my left pedal (KingSong 14C) at close to top speed. I sprained my knee bad and was off the wheel (and limping) for nearly a month. My third crash was when my motor failed on my KS-14C, taking a gentle left turn in traffic at a pretty good clip. Was fortunate to not be seriously hurt in that one (just a bump on the elbow), though my wheel was toast.
  10. 2 points
    Your topic has been moved to the "Off Topic" sub-forum because it's clearly not a euc. In your youtube description it says (bold red emphasis mine): The toastbike mini is a new type of self-balancing scooter. This is our first prototype, it has 800 watt rear hub motor running at 60 volts. The stability and passing ability are much better than E-unicycle and Segway, because toastbike mini has 1 front wheel and 1 rear wheel. The max speed is 30 kmp (18 mph), range is around 40 kilometres (25 miles) on a single charge. I would like to know in what way is this device "self-balancing"? Does it self-balance on the left/right plane? I ask this because it's obviously not self-balancing in the front/back plane as it has two wheels "inline" like a bike.
  11. 2 points
    Don't worry about it! A few scratches don't hurt anything. By the time you've really beat it up you're ready for a new wheel.
  12. 2 points
    Update. I managed to get out a little bit this morning before it started to rain too much. I'm definitely wondering how people manage to ride these things at all. Feels unnatural. But, I know I'll get it. Despite having it pretty well padded, my V8 got it's first minor scratch. That's how it goes though and I figure once I get the hang of it, I'll get a new shell to get it looking good again.
  13. 1 point
    Ride responsibly and Wear suitable protective gear! = Safe Speed = 70kg rider >40% charge. Heavier rider or lower battery? Ride slower! 21 km/h - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 21 km/h - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 22 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 22 km/h - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 22 km/h - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 23 km/h - Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) 25 km/h - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 28 km/h - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 28 km/h - Kingsong KS16B (680/840Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 32 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway ACM (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh) 32 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 35 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh) 35 km/h - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh) 40 km/h - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) 45 km/h - Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) = Real Range = 20-25 km/h urban commuting, 70kg rider, not aggressive riding, not offroad, above 15°C ambient temperature, not hilly, not windy, new good condition batteries (5km rounded). 20 km - Ninebot One S2 (310Wh) 20 km - Ninebot One E+ (320Wh) 20 km - Gotway MCM4 (340Wh) 20 km - Kingsong KS14C (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 141 Zero (340Wh) 20 km - IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh) 20 km - Inmotion V5F (320Wh) 25 km - Kingsong KS14D (420Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V5F+ (480Wh) 30 km - Inmotion V8 (480Wh) 40 km - Gotway MCM4 (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS14C (680Wh) 40 km - Kingsong KS16B (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway ACM (680Wh) 40 km - Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh) 40 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (680Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16B (840Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS16S (820Wh) 50 km - Gotway ACM (820Wh) 50 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh) 50 km - Gotway Msuper v3 (820Wh) 55 km - Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) 80 km - Gotway ACM (1300Wh) 80 km - Gotway Msuper v3s (1300Wh) 100 km - Gotway ACM (1600Wh) 100 km - Gotway Msuper v3s+ (1600Wh) 105 km - Kingsong KS18A-1200W, KS18A-2000W (1680Wh) 150 km - Gotway Monster (2400Wh) * Real Range calculation: Capacity Wh / 16 = km Inmotion V8 example: 480Wh / 16 = 30km * Peak power calculation: Fully charged, new good condition batteries (100W rounded). battery pack voltage (serial) * number of packs (parallell) * nominal discharge rate * 95% switching efficiency Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh) example: 84V * 4packs * 10A * 0.95 = 3192W The standard battery cells used in EUCs have 10 Ampere nominal discharge rate. Dynanometer tests have shown the batteries have not delivered any more in practice so 10A was used for all calculations. 15-cell pack = 63V * 10A = 630W 16-cell pack = 67.2V * 10A = 672W 20-cell pack = 84V * 10A = 840W 95% efficiency (5% waste heat) * Safe Speed calculation: Ninebot One S2 (310Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Ninebot One E+ (320Wh): 500W nominal, 1200W peak √ 500W = 22 km/h 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W Unsafe! 21 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1103W OK. Gotway MCM4 (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14C (340Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Kingsong KS14D (420Wh): 800W nominal, 1300W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 141 Zero (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. IPS 191 Lhotz (340Wh): 1000W nominal, 1300W peak √ 1000W = 32 km/h 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W Unsafe! 22 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1210W OK. Inmotion V5F, V5F+ (320Wh, 480Wh) : 550W nominal, 1600W peak √ 550W = 23 km/h 23 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1323W OK. Inmotion V8 (480Wh): 800W nominal, 1600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W Unsafe! 25 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1563W OK. Gotway MCM4 (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS14C (680Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16B (840Wh): 800W nominal, 2600W peak √ 800W = 28 km/h 28 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 1960W OK. Kingsong KS16S (820Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (840Wh): 1200W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway ACM (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Gotway Msuper v3 (680/820Wh): 1500W nominal, 2600W peak √ 1500W = 39 km/h 39 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3803W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (680Wh): 2000W nominal, 2600W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 32 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 2560W OK. Kingsong KS18A-1200W (1680Wh): 1200W nominal, 5100W peak √ 1200W = 35 km/h 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Rockwheel GT16 (858Wh): 2000W nominal, 3200W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W Unsafe! 35 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 3063W OK. Gotway ACM (1300/1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Msuper v3s, v3s+ (1300Wh, 1600Wh): 1600W nominal, 4800W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Gotway Monster (2400Wh): 1600W nominal, 8000W peak √ 1600W = 40 km/h 40 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 4000W OK. Kingsong KS18A-2000W (1680Wh): 2000W nominal, 5100W peak √ 2000W = 45 km/h 45 km/h ^ 2 * 2.5 = 5063W OK.
  14. 1 point
    I've had my eye on EUCs for 2 years now and kept putting off buying one until now. In that time I did a ton of research, watched every video I could find and read plenty of reviews. I was a frequent lurker on this forum. Thanks to this forum, I became acquainted with Inmotion in general, and ewheels.com. I bookmarked ewheels.com a year ago and would constantly add and delete the V8 from my cart, waiting until the day I finally saved up the cash to buy my first wheel. A few days ago @Jason McNeil was very helpful in answering my few remaining questions and I finally added the V8 to my cart for realsies. I picked up my V8 tonight and ran home to unpack it. Unfortunately, it's past dark outside, so I haven't had a chance to take it out. But, I managed to get my feet on it and go back and forth (albeit very wobbly) a few times up and down my hallway. I was lucky that Amazon delivered my pads today, as well. So, sun up tomorrow, I know what I'll be doing. Even took a day off work so I could enjoy learning how to ride my first EUC. Also, I work tech support for a living and all my co-workers are dorks, like me, and are begging me to bring it into the office as soon as possible to show it off. I can tell I'm going to have a blast.
  15. 1 point
    My first poll. I hope I did it right.
  16. 1 point
    Had two face plants on one tour at the time riding my old IPS. First face plant was over torque on a trail in the forrest (flat trail , good condition) with a sudden power cut. Second face plant on a sand trail. I had trouble to sleep for 4-5 weeks with this bruised ribs. Vote for more powerful EUCs & safety in the future.
  17. 1 point
    that depends on how you interpret things. That inflammation was EUC induced, well at least partly. But it was not caused by any form of an accident... So kind of sitting between the chairs, which led to me chosing the last option.
  18. 1 point
    There is an error in the speed calibration. We are testing next version that will have this corrected.
  19. 1 point
    Update: just finished another 3,75 km of cruising around on the same charge, until under voltage alarm kicked in again. I was cruisig harder than earlier today, lots of turns, hard acceleration etc. Added these results in the previous post
  20. 1 point
    You be frustrated for awhile, and then you will have the "Ahaa!" moment, and it will all come together. Stick with it!
  21. 1 point
    I didn't squeeze the battery until it's completely empty. As I don't have a charge doctor right here, I can't measure exactly, how much energy I used. By now, the Battery has recovered to 3,61V/cell, so there's definately plenty of juice left. However, the BMS won't allow to discharge below 3,4V/cell. The cells are rated for discharge to 2,5V. I'd guess that I used no more than 400 Wh, so that would make it more like 20 Wh/km for cruising around 20 kph.
  22. 1 point
    Moved to Off Topic subforum because it's not euc related nor self-balancing.
  23. 1 point
    @Chen, what does the driver need to do in order to accelerate or brake and how is this "information" passed to the device?
  24. 1 point
    No, that's fair play, she was on the road, endangering the life of her child as well. Stupid parent.
  25. 1 point
    I got a 661 pressure suit that is pretty close. Those boots would go well with that Alas they are discontinued and nobody has them in a 44...
  26. 1 point
    That is why I was writing that English would be largely enough. I provided translations to help you if you would decide to finish translations. But you will enter in a nightmare everytime a new word will appear in GyroMetrics. This is the case in French also : tangage and roulis are used for planes and ships but are adequate. They are also used for cars, trains, etc. so, why not EUCs ? ;-).
  27. 1 point
    Thanks, will change the translations. It is difficult to please everybody Problem is language is selected by the system according to the preferences in the general settings of the iPhone and I am not able to make an option, Same for units. In American iPhones should present yd, mi, ºF, ft instead of m, km and ºC. With Pitch and Roll I have a big problem. Translations (at least to Catalan and Castillian) just "don't feel good". There are terms from aeronautic industry. So I decided to let them as they are. In InMotion I don't receive Pitch and Roll (as far as I know.) so I let them at 0
  28. 1 point
    Thank you. Let me try to clarify completely. My KS-14C wouldn't power on after my crash. When I disassembled my wheel, I found the wire that enters the motor housing inside the pedal had frayed, apparently shorting out the motor. On a KS-14C there is a spring that cushions the wire as it emerges out of the motor and through the pedal housing. On my wheel, this spring had become dislodged had slid outward, leaving the wire running through the pedal housing unprotected. It appeared that over time, the insulation for the wire had worn through, and when I made a steady, strong left turn under significant power, the short occurred, cutting power to the motor and sending me to the pavement. My vendor @Jason McNeil was very helpful and accommodating, sending me a replacement motor straightaway. Unfortunately, I sheared off one of the retaining screws when I reassembled the pedals, entirely my fault. Jason sent me a replacement set of screws and, though I haven't yet got the wheel up and running, I should be able to with a strong enough drill to extricate the screw from the pedal so I can put "Humpty Dumpty" back together again. In the interim, I bought an Inmotion V8 from Jason, which has been absolutely bulletproof through a few hundred miles of daily use.
  29. 1 point
    Correction, GREAT NAME. thanks @John Eucist for helping me see the light. ??
  30. 1 point
    I just wanted to close this thread letting you guys know that I've got a InMotion V8. It tackles the climb with no issues. The wheel is great, no wobbling, just plenty of fun.
  31. 1 point
    Congrats on your new wheel. You will have loads of fun! My first is also a V8, had it for almost 2 weeks now and it's a blast for sure. Max speed (which I reached for a split second) is 19.5 mph. But that's where all the tiltback and beeping is at it's full - and it can be risky due to a cutoff, so no one recommends it. However, you can ride up to around 17.5 mph before a soft tiltback begin - and this will gradually get stronger if you keep pushing past that. Good luck and don't despair during the learning process. It's well worth the effort, trust me!
  32. 1 point
    I think the range is pretty close to 20 miles. Max speed would seem to be the rated 19 mph, but I haven't gotten it up that fast more than a couple of times.
  33. 1 point
    Only the early Airwheels (and few dodgy clones of it) were available (apart from solowheel, which was far too expensive). I went for the Airwheel X5, and was very happy with it until its battery crapped out on me 3 years later, and I really struggled to find a replacement. Of course the Gotway I have now is in a different league, but for what it was, when it was, and for the price it was (£599), I was very happy with it, and it served me well for far longer than I expected.
  34. 1 point
    I'm 200 lbs, and the V8 hasn't had any problems lugging my fat butt around. I live at the top of a fairly steep hill, and it runs me right up the hill like is was nothing.
  35. 1 point
    quite an early adopter it seems! Out of curiosity, how many different wheels were available 4 years ago and which one was your first?
  36. 1 point
    Thanks @Chris Westland that's maximum helpful And have you seen the Sidi Apex in white ? Full-on robocop ! Love it.
  37. 1 point
    I also have mine positioned so that it's far in front. And I also bent it like you did so that it's off to the side, otherwise it tends to block your vision (I'm saying this for other people who may be reading this). Yep, mine's also hitting things too , but since I epoxied it to the helmet nothing really happens. Minor annoyance.
  38. 1 point
    I shouldn't condone it, but there is a bait-bike video doing the rounds involving a 'hoverboard' which I absolutely wouldn't advise watching, although it is hilarious
  39. 1 point
    Wow. No wonder you high-tailed it outta there...makes me glad I live where that sort of thing just doesn't happen...
  40. 1 point
    You are right - there is no proved (at least that i know) contradiction to power braking at higher speeds. We'd need methodical wheel logs (which would still be no prove if they show no power braking - one could have missed the case power braking occurs) or someone with some insider knowledge... A strong hint is the (huge) power dissipation occuring for the mosfets (and motor coils) while power braking. Was imho mentioned by one member in either this linked thread or somewhere else? The one kind of power braking (shorting the motor coils by the mosfets) generates power to be dissipated by the mosfets (and motor coils) proportional to the square of the generated voltage (~rpm) (Or is it in this case proportional to the square of the flowing current which is proportional to the braking torque? Or leads both just to the same result?) The other kind of power braking (?plugging braking? - where the ?commutation sequence is changed? so the battery voltage is put on the coils with reversed polarity) generates even more power to be dissipated by the mosfets (and motor coils and this time also by the internal resistance of the batteries) My reasoning for the existance of power braking (mainly/?only?) at lower speeds is the ineffectiveness/impossibility of regenerative braking at (very) low speeds and the (huge) power dissipation for the mosfets at higher speeds. "Slight" power braking could occur by "PWM'ed" Mosfets anytime? (for example for balancing) So - no prove or contradiction till now that i'd know of - only assumptions. But i'd be very interested to know the "truth". Yes. I agree with you. But as written before, also with a turned off EUC the electric circuit can be completed if the generated voltage by the motor gets above the battery voltage plus two times the forward voltage of the body diode of the mosfet. Then the mosfet body diodes start conducting and current flows (recharging the battery)!
  41. 1 point
    That sounds rather like a pretty sad and depressing conversation I wouldn't be excited at all to overhear.
  42. 1 point
    For Canada there is also ; www.ridetheglide.ca Gotway and Ninebot/Segway out of Victoria. They are good to deal with.
  43. 1 point
    I would still have to say that if there is not a completed electric circuit, there would be no electrical current being generated. Any energy being input into the system is either stored (as in a flywheel) or turned to heat from various sources of friction. Have you ever been to a science museum where there is a hand cranked generator attached to a light bulb? With the circuit closed, (circuit complete) the crank takes quite a bit of work to turn. As soon as you turn off the switch (open circuit) the light bulb goes out and the generator is far easier to crank. It is no longer under electrical load. Electricity is no longer being generated. Think of it like a battery. When the circuit is completed, electric current flows through the circuit. When the circuit is open, there is no current. This is a real-life engineering problem for generators. For example, a hydroelectric dam, generating electricity for a city experiences a total drop in load after the transmission lines to the city are destroyed by an airplane cutting through the lines. The generators instantly go from a state of "load" to "no load" because of the open circuit. The water, however, is still flowing through the turbines. What happens? They begin to spin faster and faster. Equipment in the dam is designed to stop the water flow through the turbines in just such a situation, but it takes time, sometimes a matter of minutes. What happens to all this energy in the meantime? It is absorbed by the generator by spinning faster and faster, and may start to cause enough friction and vibration that can only be dissipated through destruction of the bearings and eventually the turbines themselves. Hydro-generators have in the past experienced such destruction, and engineering on them has improved, and they must be designed to spin quite a bit faster than when under load without excessive vibration and friction damage. All thanks to the law of conservation of energy.
  44. 1 point
    The EUC has two modes for braking - one is recovering energy and the other one consumes energy. The braking mode which consumes energy is an extreme burden to the electronics, motor coils and batteries and leads to quite immediate overheating. As we discussed this once in a thread long time ago it seems this is ?with some wheels? only used at very low speeds (the last moments before standstill) The normals braking mode of EUCs is regenerative braking. Efficiency is imho quite low - and i can't remember of anyone reporting some substantial tests. For every wheel there should exist some sweet spot (decline & speed) with max efficiency - knowing this combinations could improve the range for hilly tracks. Should be quite easy to measure this with some app like wheellog or GyroMetrics (formerly known as 9BMetrics) going up and down a steady de/incline with different speeds (and don't forget to let the battery rest a bit before taking the measurements - a loaded battery shows a bit to much and a discharged battery a bit less in the first moments...) With this also the motor/electronics efficiency could be examined going uphill with different speeds. Some indian looked at energy recovery efficiency in his master thesis with an electric trike (BLDC as generator over a DC/DC converter to super capacitors to the battery) - so not the same setup but not something completely different. As far as i remember he reached something about 15%... If one finds this energy recovery sweetspots for his EUC and the downward tracks allow one to drive these speeds this 10-20% could be reachable - not a real range booster but noticeable... The best solution anyhow is take a break in the middle of the tour and recharge your wheel... (for example @1RadWerkstatt in germany offers "fast" chargers (1) for most high capacity wheels with 4A or 8A) so that recharging time stays bearable. (just one or two beers instead of a full intoxication ) The motor powered by an external force (braking) acts as generator no matter if the EUC is turned on or off. The difference is, that with the turned on EUC the firmware operates the mosfet half-bridges in conjunction with the motor coils as DC/DC step up converter so the battery gets loaded even with lower generator voltages. With the EUC turned off one would have to turn the wheel quite fast so the generator produces enough voltage to "overcome" the body diodes of the mosfets and charge the battery. Imho once was reported that Solowheels can be "restarted" by turning the wheel fast enough while turned off. (imho resetting the BMS after a cut-off as normaly done by plugging in the charger) (!) Charging high capacity battery packs with 8A is mostly no fast charging but only "normal" 1C (or still below) charging. The chargers provided with these wheels (~2A) are very slow chargers...
  45. 1 point
    I got able to use it. I just disabled location services, disabled cellular data and turned WIFI off. The app barked and spitted some errors saying: #@#$@#$ can't reach the server. But after the error I got able to change the settings. All I wanted was to change the default max speed from 16 to 19 as I want to cruise at 16 without getting nuclear warning sound. I don't use the app for anything else.
  46. 1 point
    You can thank the First Law of Thermodynamics for this, or the law of conservation of energy. The energy that you stored up in you by going up hill (or being uphill already) must go somewhere when you go downhill. The motion is transformed into electrical energy. Why? Because an electric motor and an electric generator are exactly the same thing, and what you call it at the moment depends entirely on the direction of flow of electricity either to or from the battery. As a generator (this only works when the circuit is complete, i.e. your wheel is "turned on") when you are going downhill (or braking) the energy flow is reversed, flowing back into the battery. Note that when your wheel is turned off, the motor offers little resistance to turning the wheel. When it is on, the motor (now a generator) offers a great deal of mechanical resistance to turning. This is the braking action of your wheel. That is why a tiny waterwheel likely would not have the ability to charge up your battery. You'd have to have a very large (non-portable) water wheel! As far as efficiency, there are losses. As electricity flows through metal, resistance turns some of the electricity into heat. No energy is lost, just transformed. The circuitry in the battery management system (BMS) and on board computer transforms more to heat. Storing and releasing energy in the battery lead to more losses to heat. As to what percentage is lost, I don't know, but it is substantial. Perhaps others could chime in on their real-world experience. If you started out at high elevation, with uphill or straight runs strategically placed to use stored battery energy when needed (the BMS will turn off the circuit to protect the battery from over charging) you could theoretically go all day on a single charge. What would be interesting would be to find the ideal terrain shape for all day riding!
  47. 1 point
    Be assured that I double- and tipplechecked everything thoroughly before anything was plugged in. I understand the dangers caused by wrongly wired lithium batteries, and I don't want to burn down my house
  48. 1 point
    I'm receiving my Kingsong 14B on Tuesday, so I might be able to join in Maybe we can setup a Whatsapp/facebook Messenger group for easier communication?
  49. 1 point
    The answer depends to some extend on your body weight. If you are below 100kg, a 18% climb shouldn't be prohibitive for any EUC with at least a 500W motor, which is pretty much the case for any branded model. A relevant ballpark figure is that lifting 85kg at 1km/h (like climbing 18% with 4.7km/h speed) needs 230W. Wheel choice depends also to a greater extend on how much money you are able to spent, how confident you are that you will like it and keep using it, and whether the weight of the wheel is a relevant parameter for you (it is for me, but some people don't care a lot). My current favourite starting point to look at would be the Inmotion V8 as one of the lightest 16" wheels, weighing a little below 14kg.
  50. 1 point
    Dont practice at home - go outside. You need space to balance side to side - dont practice in confined spaces Start by practicing next to some railing. Or in between two rows of railing. Push your limits - if you cant stay balanced, jump off the wheel but dont be afraid to go forward and accelerate a bit Gear up and fall a few times - you cant avoid falling forever. Embrace it and you will learn faster. good luck