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  1. 6 points
    Correct. I use almost all of my EUC lipo batteries. In my riding they do not need to be heated if the frost is not as -20. They remain very warm with exertion. If freezing temperatures are -25 ° C or more, I put the heating on. I do not like li-ion batteries, due to their poor performance. Fast voltage drop, and slow download In freezing temperatures the voltage drops very quickly at the slightest exertion.
  2. 6 points
    @rayna903 The Ninebot One series is a great starting out point for EUC riding, especially because of the current low sub-$1K, even sub-$500 price points. But there is a reason why Ninebot Ones are so under-priced compared to the average $1K or more cutting edge EUC from other top brands: the Segway takeover of Ninebot has diverted their priorities, mainly to the 2-wheeled Mini Pro, and they've neglected to improve upon / update the line going on a good ~2 years now. With other brands offering better performance and better convenience features at relatively similar price points, the Ninebot, for more experienced EUC riders, is really showing its age now. My brief experience with IPS (Zero 340wH) was largely disappointing. Their wheels are largely underpowered compared to other major brand counterparts (don't be fooled by IPS resorting to old EUC practices of advertising max power, not nominal / average power), and I have yet to be convinced otherwise by an IPS rider who has actual experience riding extensively both IPS and other major brands (the ones that have had such experience have all admitted to the underpowering, in my experiences). Totally a matter of personal preference, but if Ninebot One is your point of reference, I would say everything the NB1 series can do, the InMotion wheels can do a bit (v5) or a lot (V8) faster and with more features (built-in front light, handle disengage, etc) in a better package (both V5 & V8 are I believe lighter and have higher pedals, good for not scraping pedals on turns). In my experience with the V5 now, I have learned that handling bumps is affected more by choice of tire material / weight than it is actual tire size. The V5F+ model carried by super distributor @Jason McNeil / eWheels.com employs a ChaoYang 14" x 1.95" tire, made of a heavier rubber than most. I would say, as a result, the V5F+ handles bumps better than the V8 or Ninebot One series, which employ the typical Kenda-brand 16" x 2.125" stock tires (more like a cheap afterthought of a tire). Potholes and divots, on the other hand, are a function of tire size, but I would advise avoiding those, as this increases the chances of flatting the inner tube. No. Ninebot and IPS wheels, being older brands, are still motor designs based on re-engineered e-bike motors. The InMotion wheels were built from the ground up and employ a different handling, almost like a turn assist type setup (closest real world comparison I can think of is how the advent of parabolic ski design helped the most challenged of skiiers able to turn more easily. As a result, they are less affected by the popular notion that larger tires are harder to handle than smaller diameter tires on an EUC (I personally think this argument though is largely overstated on these forums, especially the higher your skill level). Hands down, the Ninebot One series are the best jumpers, simply due to the design of their side pad casings. Their square designs jut out, allowing your legs to hug under the pad and pull up. That is not to say you cannot jump on any of the other makes and models you've listed, but this one Ninebot One physical feature makes the Ninebot One the clear winner here. Safety-wise, I wouldn't worry too much so long as you realize the limitations of EUC riding (overspeed cutouts, overlean / over-current cutouts, etc... well covered on many forum posts here). One thing to note (also well covered on these forums) is that Ninebot One wheels do not have the greatest track record for in-app firmware updates (there are cases of updates bricking wheels, etc), but if you take precaution and only update after confirming on these forums, you will be fine. In the case of InMotion, I would contact @Jason McNeil to see if he has a former customer in your area who would let you test ride their wheel. I personally might never have bought my V5F+ or V8 if I wasn't able to do so myself. This is an interesting question that I am exploring myself. Out of the box, hands down this goes to the V5F+, but IMO, this is not due to the smaller tire size, but more due to the crappy stock Kenda tire that the V8 shipped with. But, as I've said, I am still exploring this comparison with procuring replacement tires for my V8. Also of note: AFAIK, InMotion is the only company where their engineers actually know how to ride EUCs and actually have put in countless hours beta testing (see facebook article here), and it shows. Surprisingly, this is not the case with the other major brands (from what I've heard on the forums here). [FYI, it's hard for me not to sound like an InMotion advertisement, but this is simply due to how impressed I have been with these wheels.]
  3. 5 points
    Get "something" to hold the wires & connector in place while soldering, basic "helping hands" shouldn't cost much more than maybe $5-10, but a stack of books or other heavy items could work also to keep things immobile: It's important that neither the wire or the connector move about while the solder cools and turns back to solid. The above is a bit bad example, as the other clip could be much closer to the end of the wire being soldered, to make it more immobile... Most of my pictures don't show it, but I always "attach" both the wire and the connector one way or another (helping hands, vise or some heavy objects) and place them so that they don't move about during soldering, here the other clip of the helping hands is above the picture, holding the wires: If using the "pre-fill" -method shown in the Pace-videos, I'd say helping hands are better, tighten the joints of the hands so that they stay still, but can still be moved about with one hand. Place the wire so that the other clip holds it above the cup, fill the connector cup, and while the solder is still liquid, grab the wire and stick it inside. Keep warming the connector, either from the side or with a thinner soldering iron tip, you can (usually) fit the tip partway inside the connector even with the wire inside (won't work with thick wires) so the solder stays liquid until everything is in place. If pre-filling, remember that it's always possible to add solder if there's too little, but getting any excess out is a tad more difficult Also, like the above pictures show, with connectors that are already moulded inside (usually) plastic housings, I always put both ends of the connector-pairs together while soldering. The plastic can get partially melted during soldering, but there's more metal to sink the heat, and the connector-pins/bulllets/whatever won't get misaligned, as the other ends keeps them in place (I've ruined a few connectors before I learned this ). There's probably a ton of example and tutorial videos, but they can only get you "so far", I'd say the only real way to learn is by doing, but of course it helps to know what to avoid or what sort of "tricks" other people have come up with and apply those.
  4. 4 points
    @EcoDrift posted on Russian forum known King Song plans for the beginning of 2017 KS-16S: 840wh/1200w, max speed: 35km/h, mid January KS-18A with 2000w motor, max speed: 60-70km/h, February KS-14D with 680wh and 840wh, April Powerbank for EUC charging: March KS-18 new design: May
  5. 4 points
    More batteries won't likely help much, instead you should look into temperature-controlled battery heating, that's what EUC Extreme uses, although I think those were custom-built for him. Posted October 19, 2015 · Report post Yes. I have now Gotway 18 with a battery heating. Battery is wound around a thin resistance wire. Then there is a meter which displays the battery temperature. I can self-adjust the temperature. In addition, there is an alarm to indicate too high or low temperature. It is really convenient for System Worldwide. Can run in -35 degrees below zero without any problems. Battery temperature remains easily 20 degrees.
  6. 3 points
    Threw together an illustration to highlight just how much better the V5F is. While Inmotion is hardly a small company (over 100 employees), by comparison of the resources of Segway-Ninebot, they're a fraction of the size, their (Inmotion's) Engineering team put a lot more thought into the daily practical use of the Wheel; for Inmotion it's not a toy but a transportation solution. I'm really pleased to be representing them here in the US 1. More battery cells = better. Although both Wheels have the same capacity, the Inmotion V5F uses more 10 more battery cells. 2. V5F has blue & red lighting effects for the front & rear of the Wheel, S1 has a ring of LEDs 3. Higher pedals provides better turning radius, less risk of scraping the edges of the pedals against the ground 4. Oval shaped pedals are optimized for tight turns 5. Standard 1.5A charger has UL certification, 2.5 'Fast Charger' does not 6. Possibility in the near future
  7. 3 points
    My El Cheapo car died so I am driving a newer one. In the Arctic apparently. Oh look a polar bear! Hell has frozen over as well from the look of it.
  8. 3 points
    The apps are not at all reliable, their soft are always sloppy. They take no data from the BMS (like eg the coulombmeter), only the voltage and deduce from it the % of charge, no wonder it's not a consistent value. As to the amps fluctuating, I have the same thing on one of my battery packs and it's a pack with a defect cell! Maybe your pack has the same problem, maybe not, hopefully (because 20S packs may have another behavior). As to the grapher KST, I don't know what's is wrong but I can say that Win10 is not the culprit. The problem may come from the config file, the path to the ascii datafile... KST may be hard to set up (some happen to get it work first time) and the interface is nightmarish but once it works, it works flawlessly.
  9. 3 points
    Too late, if you haven't already ordered it. The price on Amazon for the Segway One S1 is back to $750. For the same money an InMotion V5F looks a lot better ... Of course, the price may change again after Christmas. I wouldn't be surprised.
  10. 3 points
    At least make sure there is a smoke alarm where you charge it.
  11. 3 points
    But I don't think @EUC Extreme uses Li-ion batteries...
  12. 3 points
    Take it to the next level... Shovelling / blowing is for amateurs! Now, if you had a flame thrower to melt your EUC-way through, that would go viral...
  13. 3 points
    I've got fast responses from IPS to the problems/questions I've faced. From KS or GW I got no answers wjat so ever regarding spare parts and after sales, even before purchasing a unit. So whether IPS people is active on this forum or not, they are the most active ones in customer service - which I definitely prefer over posting updates here. As a customer.
  14. 3 points
    Here's a good video to watch. It's just a small example, but good info.
  15. 2 points
    @Jason McNeil your initial experiences of the S1 sound exactly like my unboxing and initial setup for my former S2. Speaking of beeps, if the S1 proves the same as the S2 in terms of non-adjustable beep volume, you might want to add that to the chart. This IMO is huge, as the Ninebot One S2 was obnoxiously loud with the beeping.
  16. 2 points
    I didn't mention this in my original post because it didn't seem pertinent. But I was an avid hang glider enthusiast during the 80's and early 90's. It was all consuming in my life and I have many happy memories of extraordinary experiences. I felt safe doing so at the time, but there were risks for sure, and I had a few minor injuries and more near misses. I can say with some authority that flying is more dangerous than wheeling. It's almost laughable to say otherwise. Unless you have a truly freak accident you'll always be coming home at the end of the day after riding your wheel. When you're airborne, not so much.
  17. 2 points
    haha , I understand but still I want to solve the problem , maybe nuclear euc with free mutations included in the price
  18. 2 points
    1360wh IS more batteries !!! 1020 MORE than I have to be exact. I'm having a little trouble feeling sorry for you. I'll try harder, I promise. ?
  19. 2 points
    No, for Li-Ion you generally don't want to be below freezing for the battery temp, but +10C is much better and 25C ideal. Your need some sort of heating solution to get better efficency below 10C. Of course the current models are not expected to be used in such temperatures. A sealed heated enclosure can be electrically heated but in some situations waste motor heat could also be captured and use to warm the batteries. There is not much space available on EUCs so an insulated enclosure with electric heat is probably the most practical. regenerative energy from breaking could be redirected to heating in low temperatures. I don't know how much better the Lipo batteries are at low temp, but EUC Extreme seem to have done his research. Lipo packs can also deliver much higher currents.
  20. 2 points
    Like KindSong69 guessed from aliexpress. The vendor I choose is Fineone, I actually payed through him through paypal because I was ordering the extra items. He send the package within 2 days of my order and it arrived on my doorstep 13 days later (7-15 days shipping indication). So I'm pretty happy with this vendor.
  21. 2 points
    At the missus' end of year work do... Wishing I had brought my wheel, so I could be outside rolling around! Is that a bad thing?
  22. 2 points
    No..that would be 'The Most Academically Revered EUC Talent Contest'!
  23. 2 points
    I now have a better understanding on proper charging techniques. Thanks! Does anyone have information on riding in very CLD weather as I did today? I know EUC batteries should be kept warm before riding but are there any other issues, concerns or preparations? I am aware Li-ion batteries loose power faster in cold weather. @EUC Extreme has rode in extremely cold weather! Has anyone else?
  24. 2 points
    Finally a contest that I could win!
  25. 2 points
    I bought a S1 to test out if it was any good. It has some nice design aspects, like the handle, but in in almost every important technical respect it's inferior to the V5F series. There's an annoyingly safety instructional guide in the App. Each screen has an obligatory 3 second countdown timer & the speed is limited to 10kph for the first 1km. The Wheel's handling feels like it's been programmed by a Health & Safety committee, extremely conservative. Any S1 owners on the forum?
  26. 2 points
    Smart kid, he'll probably make a lot of money this winter, and, he can tell his parents that the hoverboard is not just a toy.
  27. 2 points
    I seriously considered to switch from Lhotz to Zero due to the amount of stairs appeared to my way (commuting) but I found another path and cant really consider that change any more. In zero there is very limited room for more grooved tire and/or studs, in Lhotz there in plenty of room to install even bigger studs than BG1000. Fatter tire (2,5") makes Lhotz incredible for even trail riding, I really enjoy that when packed snow between bumps like stone even up the path. Zero is more agile and light to carry, but it's hard to handle on the trails. Versatility is the thing keeps me attached with my Lhotz
  28. 2 points
    Congratulations, the 14C is a great machine. I think it's a classic. Owning that plus a 16 & 18 inch wheel, I have to tell you that the 14C will be a more challenging wheel to learn on. That being said, if you can ride the 14C you can ride any wheel. So hang in there and don't give up. The rewards will be worth it in the end.
  29. 2 points
    It was very difficult to hold both the wire and the connector still while holding the soldering iron too. And the wire was short too so i had to hold the connector with my feet over the wheel. Things were moving around even when the flux while cooling. I will try to redo in a few days...
  30. 2 points
    Good idea! And put a bit of new flux on it! Don't move the wire while it cools! Or everything starts at point 1....
  31. 2 points
    I don't know, I'm dubious. There's too much learned skill that's required and a perceived level of (false) risk that I think will keep EUCs forever in a niche. I think the niche will grow and be large enough to sustain the manufacturers, but that's about it. Just yesterday I was riding at the beach and stopped by to talk to a Hang Glider instructor who was setup on a training hill. HE thought my wheel look dangerous to ride. That says it all
  32. 2 points
    Come on EUC Members!!! Kids are stealing our thunder and coming up with creative ways to use their hoverboards! This youngster cleared 50 times the amount of snow I did on my EUC! Time to throw down the gauntlet! The challenge is on!!
  33. 2 points
    My YouTube channel contains a lot of non-EUC content, but here's my EUC Playlist which includes mine and other EUC videos that I like:
  34. 2 points
    The best written articles about batteries and all questions are -my 2 Cents- still over there at batterieuniversity.com, this one for example: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
  35. 2 points
    Charging to 100% could be called an 'overcharge' already but we most often want it because it almost doubles the capacity and we juice it up as far possible while still keeping a practical lifespan.. Especially in the winter we need extra capacity because the lithium batteries can loose so much in lower temperatures. It's like overclocking a computer, maximize performance at the cost of lifespan and efficiency. Any charging level is always a tradeoff between capacity and lifespan, but it's not linear, the capacity gained gets smaller and smaller while the wearing down of the cells gets worse and worse. At some point it's not worth the tradeoff any longer. We can choose the balance but they keep it simple and choose it for you. You can limit it lower if you care enough, understand the benefit and can live with lower capacity. But they are forced to keep it high by default in order to be competitive. The way to solve it is by having a huge, heavy battery that has twice the capacity you need and never charge above 80%. But we want compact and lightweight with max capacity, I think the general consensus is that it's worth it to charge to 100% even if it wears down the batteries faster in the process. That way you can use the full capacity when it's new and when it's worn down to 80% capacity fully charged, then you still have that 80% left, and when it was newer you had even more. You get a smaller, lighter and cheaper battery, after a year you get rid of the whole device or get a new battery anyway, or something along those lines... However with bigger, heavier and more expensive batteries it's definitely worth it to have longer lifespan, we can use the Charge Doctor for that. Maybe once a month you can do a full charge for cell balancing. What you should be thinking about is how much time the batteries spend over 80%, the cells do not like being at those higher voltages at all. That's why electrical cars limit the charge lower, because the battery is not practical or economical to replace and the device needs a long lifespan. EUCs with big batteries fall into the same category if used as a vehicle not only a cheap toy! Keeping a laptop plugged in constantly will wear down the battery way faster because it's being kept in a constant 'overvoltage' condition. On a Thinkpad you can set the start/stop limits, for example activate charging at <35% and deactivate at >45% or whatever levels you want, so you can leave it plugged in all the time and it will very seldom charge plus keep it around 40%! Otherwise you can charge it to about 40%, remove the battery and put it away until you need it. But removing the battery is not an option for an EUC lol.. it's just a recommendation for a desktop replacement laptop... Controlling the max charge level in the bluetooth app would be a great and valuable feature. Of course this needs to be implemented in the hardware and firmware to begin with. We should request this from the manufacturers, at least for the more expensive wheels with massive battery packs. But until then we have the nifty Charge Doctor saving our batteries!
  36. 2 points
    Agreed, the vid is not particularly helpful. Here is a short version in line of what @FreeRidesaid. Ideally (for the battery) - store at around 40% charge (while being aware of parasitic discharge) and rather below room temperature - charge directly before you go (from 40% store charge) - charge only as much as needed to get back home with 30-50% charge level left, in particular avoid charging over 90% and better recharge smaller amounts in between The bottom line to all of this: avoiding extreme charge levels in particular at high temperature. The effects of such a charging policy seem to be rather dramatic, i.e. it apparently can prolong battery life (in Wh) by a factor of 5 or so! Source: http://www.batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
  37. 2 points
    The only way you are going to limit the electrons is to use it less. Once you've used 5Wh you used 5Wh does not matter if you charged it 5 or 10 times you have used the same amount of power. The Charger is an important part of battery life. Someone would have to test each EUC charger and pack together as a whole to see where each one could be improved, assuming they all follow the basic CI/CV protocol with 4.2V cut off. I think some though cut early and the different devices like CD that can be set to cut early. EUC probably never discharged down to 2.5V min, or even fairly standard 2.8V, I'm guessing they are curling off around 3 or 3.1V. No EUC uses the top high drain batteries yet that I've seen. Phone batteries are slightly different and you can be relatively sure each phone has a very optimum smart charge protocol. If you are going to store your wheel over the winter say, you certainly would not want to leave it plugged in. You would want to discharge it to roughly 3.5-3.7V per cell, providing it does not have a heavy parasitic drain. Knowing the parasitic drain of your EUC can be helpful to know what you should do. The manual for my minor says it does a trickle charge once full. I suspect that is BS, because they would know that that can kill these batteries faster. However if there is high ennough parasitic drain maybe they have some charge protocol and when to charger and it's not constant. With out real measurements it's a lot of guess work. It makes no sense to plug it in. It is true that it is likely better to recharge frequently, but not if your wheel is sitting a lot at full charge. the article does not really address issues with battery packs of multiple S/P cell configuration so it really isn't a good reference, but in this case again the charger circuit is very important and given the quality of some of the wheels in general I would not struct that the chargers are optimal. I don't think in general that video adds much useful information for EUC battery packs.
  38. 1 point
    As some of you might know I recently started my EUC adventure. After some consultation with you guys I ended up purchasing the Inmotion v8 because it combines an 800w engine (I'm a 90-95kg guy) with a decent battery pack (480wh) and still relatively light (14-15 kg) at a good price point. Short version (2 main lessons and conclusion): Respect low battery, really take it easy when battery drops below 20% Don't try to show off to friends by speeding away Awesome wheel that also works for EUC starters. Long version: So keep in mind this is my first wheel ever. After packing it in the sleeve and adding some extra protective padding I started learning inside my house for about 10 minutes going backwards and forwards trying to get the balance on the wheel. After that I moved outside with some more room but still have something to grab on to to stabilize myself. Within an hour of practicing like this I managed to keep driving slow rounds on the machine and feel confident enough to take it for a small spin on the bicycle path. Here I noticed that when I was going faster the wheel started wobbling from left (\) to right (/), as it turns out this was mostly due to inexperience. After gliding like 50km it's already noticeably less and I'm quite confident that with time it'll disappear completely. The next day I took the wheel into the city center and some grocery shopping totaling another hour and a half of driving. Still some wobbling but already getting better. Everything went very smooth and I'm quite content with the way the wheel was handling the urban obstacles like speed bumps, cracks in the road and (slight) bridge inclines. I don't have a frame of reference for other wheels but the acceleration is still great for a guy my weight. I must admit that after these rides my calves were telling me to take it easy, probably because I'm not used to EUC yet but I also think the hard plastic pads on the v8 are partly to blame. I actually added some extra padding here to make it a bit more comfortable to ride, and even though it helps a bit the jury is still out on whether or not I'll be comfortable on long rides. During the weekend (total distance ~25km) took my wheel out for a small spin, when I left it still had 23% battery, so I thought I'd drain it a little bit more before charging. As it turns out this was not the best idea ever. After driving for 1,5 km I started getting warning sounds from the machine, so I decided to turn around and head back home, stood still to check the battery and it was still at 19%. I didn't get my cellphone out to check the battery % when actually driving (stupid me) so I figured I would still be fine to get home. But apparently the v8 thought that I was leaning foward too much and decided to do aggressive tiltback to force me to stop. Still inexperienced as I was I slowed down but because of the aggressive tiltback I actually steered a bit right at the end cause my wheel to leave the asfalt and fall of a 10-15 distance to the grass but not before getting scratches on the pedal on one side. The protection I put on the machine did not prevent this, so yeah first scratches are the hardest, so better to get them in fast, right? Basically shouldn't have pushed the machine so much on the empty battery because I managed to drive back the 1,5km without any problems whilst going 15 km/h. Learning curve, when it starts warning you on low battery really take it easy . During the weekdays I took out the wheel for a number of testdrives, it turns out I can actually get to the trainstation in less than 7 minutes, which by bike takes at least nearly ten minutes without actually putten the bike away. Very promising for my commute starting next January. Yesterday I took the wheel over to some of my friends since I was so enthusiastic about it. And I couldn't help myself showing off the awesome acceleration of this wheel. So even though I should've known better I leaned forwards more than I usually do ending in.... as you experience guys probably know.... a cutout of the machine (without warning). I was really happy to be wearing wrist protection and very unhappy that I thought I wouldn't need knee protection (as they are now pretty banged up. So especially to the starting drivers a note that showing off your wheel to your friends is cool, but nearly faceplanting definitely isn't (is cause for a good laugh though). Overall I'm really happy with this unit, the learning curve, top speed and stability for a guy my weight is awesome. One thing I haven't mentioned is the amount of attention people are giving me, EUC are not that common in the Netherlands but a lot of people turn their heads to see what's going on, ask what I'm doing, make sounds of general approving the awesomeness of driving this wheel. So be warned, driving this unit might get you attention . I also just received my charge doctor, so I'll be showing you some stats from the chargecycle and mileage soon. I'll also keep you guys posted on how the next 100-150km goes and how it works out in my commute from January.
  39. 1 point
    It would be better if the wheel would quickly slow down to standstill when no rider is present. This would be IHMO one of the few useful constructive regulations and is to my understanding implemented in the Uniwheel. http://forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/50-uniwheel/
  40. 1 point
    Based on my (even still) limited understanding of electronics, it will do neither. There likely won't be enough voltage drop over the diode + led, because they're in parallel with a single, very low-resistance wire, and thus no current will flow over the diode and led. When things are in parallel, the same voltage drop must occur over all "routes" in parallel. A typical diode needs about 0.6-1V of voltage and a led will need about 2-3.5V, depending on the color/materials. The fact that there's a bunch of half-bridges and a motor in-between does make the situation more complex, but my guess would still be that the voltage difference (drop) over the path to which the led + diode is in parallel with won't be enough to overcome the forward voltages of the diode + led. And if it did, there's not much to limit the current flowing through the diodes, and then you'd likely see the magic smoke come out... Edit: Actually, thinking further, with the diodes turned around (like you probably meant) in a regenerative situation the back-EMF voltage coming from the half-bridges could be high enough vs. the battery voltage to cause a large enough difference for the diodes to start to conduct, although you'd still need at least a resistor or maybe a constant current sink/source to limit the current.
  41. 1 point
    The pedal support arms inside are shorter than on other wheels, this in combination with 21cm long pedals.. Imagine a virtual triangle between the front and back ends of the pedal and up to the wheel axle, you may understand what I mean. I have the V5F+ and have overleaned it myself, twice even! It's definitely easier than with other wheels, but still possible on most other wheels too.. With these Inmotion wheels you can more easily tilt down the pedals and go full power (or more) very quickly! We love the agressive response it can push out it's a great selling point in itself together with more agility and ground clearance too. But it's pretty natural to want to test more and more force.. until you find the limit. Like was said it's usually a beginners mistake With a few wheels it's practically impossible to overaccelerate because the pedals hang much lower down from the wheel axle and/or the pedals are shorter. The virtual triangle that I mentioned looks very different, so your ability to tilt the wheel will be much weaker.. That can be better for stability but you can't have both max stability and max tilting ability at the same time as these counter each other.. Less tilt stability, but you gain control and acceleration! Oh, and 80% of accidents come from showing off, yeah I just made that statistic up but you get the point.. In my experience I only overtilted my V5F+ two times and both times I tried to show off how awesome the accel was! (would have been if I didn't run/fall off...) Congrats on the V8 excellent choice!
  42. 1 point
    You will see that with more experience, you will even not need to touch the wheel on it's side anymore! I say it like this: My worst falls i have made because of overconfidence, showing what a great hero i am with my wheel....This ended up in a 33kmh Crash! Another Thing: If the machine cuts out completly...was it on low battery? or on a really high Speed? or very cold? i am asking because it is a bit unusual that the machine cutouts because of aggressive acceleration! Yip...you can "overlean" a 800Watt wheel...but it should not result in a complete cutout...just should result in a fall as the wheel can not come with you so fast...with you dropping "over". Even not with your weight a cutout is ok...with clothes i am 105kg and i never had a cutout on my wheels!!! KS14 800 Watt, KS16 800 Watt and some stronger models.... I would only say this behavior is "normal"...or "acceptable" if the battery was very, very low or you were over the max Speed! I have to say i have not driven an V8...but as i heard a lot good things..i found this a bit "scary" when it is not like this... Nice Report!!!
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Great link, I noticed that there is going to be a black one next year 1st quarter. That article shows that advertising is slowly ramping up for the ninebot, it seems they are moving slowly but surely in to the mainstream. I wonder if the E+ is next to be introduced to the media, and whether it will be improved. The last firmware update was Dec 2015 I think, a full year ago. I am not holding my breath though, I predict a whole new 16 inch wheel to take it's place within a year. Today while riding in the park, some kids asked what is that, where did you get it? I replied, it's a Ninebot, got it at a Segway store.
  46. 1 point
    I dunno. I don't think this is funny. Theft or not, people could die from this prank. PS. At 1:25 it looks like the cameraman was about to be kicked the shit out of.
  47. 1 point
    chargers first charge at constant current and increasing voltage, then when the battery cells reach a certain voltage, the charger keeps the charging voltage about the same and starts lowering the current. You can set the cut off by the current but by the time the current starts dropping your battery will be at 85-95% full already. If you want to autoshut down before the battery reaches this level, say at 70%, you will need to set the autoshutdown by voltage. This way you will be able to "catch" the exact voltage you want to shut off at, before the battery is almist full
  48. 1 point
    Plato, a Greek sandwich, and the EUC I was no scholar back in school. All I wanted to do was chase girls. I still like to chase girls ( women technically, they don't run as fast ?), but I have become more interested in the things they tried to teach me back in the Stone Age when a slide rule was high tech. Following on from my "English as a second language" theme, I was thinking about how we came up with this descriptive phrase, electric unicycle (EUC) which, to anyone with a basic grasp of the English language, is self explanatory. And because French, Spanish, Italian, and German, etc, have a lot of common roots, these words often are similar in these languages. For example here in Spain where I am currently wheeling, when someone asks me what it is, I say "unicyclo electrico " So this English phrase isn't exclusively English. So for you board member who grew up speaking, Swedish, of Chinese, or Croatian, or whatever, here's how Western Europe came by these words. I found it interesting, I hope you do too. Electric unicycle is a combination of three Words, obviously. Let's look at these three words in more detail: Electric. From the Ancient Greek. Origin Mid 17th century: from modern Latin, electricus, from old Latin, electrum which meant amber, from Greek ēlektron (because rubbing amber causes electrostatic phenomena). Amber Hard translucent fossilized resin originating from extinct coniferous trees of the Tertiary period, typically yellowish in colour. It has been used in jewellery since antiquity. from Arabic ‘anbar ambergris, later amber. Electrum noun 1. an amber-colored alloy of gold and silver used in ancient times. 2. an alloy composed of about 50 percent copper, 30percent nickel, and 20 percent zinc. 3. German silver; nickel silver. So the word that describes such an important part of the modern world came from Ancient Greeks rubbing amber, causing sparks. Uni: consisting of, relating to, or having only one:unilateral, unisexual, universal, unique word-forming element meaning "having one only,"from Latin uni-, comb. form of unus. Cycle: Noun. any complete round or series of occurrences that repeats or is repeated. 1350-1400; Middle English cicle < Late Latin cyclus < Greek kýklos cycle, circle, wheel, ring, disk, orb; see wheel. From Wiki, this is interesting reading, trust me. The Kyklos (Ancient Greek: κύκλος, IPA: [kýklos], "cycle") is a term used by some classical Greek authors to describe what they saw as the political cycle of governments in a society. It was roughly based on the history of Greek city-states in the same period. The concept of "The Kyklos" is first elaborated in Plato's Republic, chapters VIII and IX. Polybius calls it the anakyklosis or "anacyclosis". According to Polybius, who has the most fully developed version of the cycle, it rotates through the three basic forms of government, democracy, aristocracy, and monarchy and the three degenerate forms of each of these governments ochlocracy, oligarchy, and tyranny. Originally society is in anarchy but the strongest figure emerges and sets up a monarchy. The monarch's descendants, who because of their family's power lack virtue, become despots and the monarchy degenerates into a tyranny. Because of the excesses of the ruler the tyranny is overthrown by the leading citizens of the state who set up an aristocracy. They too quickly forget about virtue and the state becomes an oligarchy. These oligarchs are overthrown by the people who set up a democracy. Democracy soon becomes corrupt and degenerates into mob rule, beginning the cycle anew. See! Plato foresaw the coming of the EUC . No? So a cycle is repetitive. Even patterns that go around are called cycles; life cycle, weather cycle, recycle, cyclone,etc. So that's where EUC comes from. But what of the parts that make up the EUC? Why pedals? Pedal: 1. a foot-operated lever used to control certain mechanisms, as automobiles, or to play or modify the sounds of certain musical instruments, as pianos, organs, or harps. 2. a lever like part worked by the foot to supply power in various mechanisms, as the bicycle. 1605-15; (< French pédale) < Latin pedālis of the feet. See ped. Ped a combining form with the meaning “having a foot” of the kind specified by the initial element Latin -ped-, stem of -pēs -footed, adj. derivative of pēs, foot Can be on the front as in pedal, or on the back as in moped. Bipedal- having two feet, Also pede, as In pedestrian, Axle Machinery. the pin, bar, shaft, or the like, on which or by means of which a wheel or pair of wheels rotates. before 900; Middle English axel, Old English eaxlshoulder, crossbeam (in eaxle-gespann); cognate withOld Frisian ax (e) le, Old Saxon ahsla, Old HighGerman ahsala shoulder ( German Achsel), Old Norseǫxl, Latin āla (< derivative of *akslā) Latin āla 1730-40; < Latin āla wing, armpit, shoulder,representing *aks-lā, derivative of same base as axis axle (see axis); see axle. Axis the line about which a rotating body, such as the earth, turns. From Latin, axi combining form representing Latin axis axle, wheel;cognate with Greek áxōn, Sanskrit ákṣas, Lithuanian ašìs, OCS osĭ, Old English eax Circuit board. Even the control board, or circuit board, referees back to the Greek work for circles or cycles. An electric circuit is only complete once the electrons complete the cycle and return to where they came from. An incomplete path is an open circuit. A shortened path ( accidentally creating an alternate path home), is literally a short circuit, because the electricity didn't go all the way around the circuit. Gyro: as in gyroscope Noun. Greek gŷros ring, noun use of gȳrós round. sandwich ( pronounced, here-row) made from roasted lamb, late 20c., originally the meat itself, was roasted on a rotating spit, from Modern Greek gyros "a circle" gyroscope heavy rotating wheel with an axis free to turn in any direction, 1856, invented and named in French 1852 by Foucault, from Greek gyros "circle" + skopos "watcher", because the device demonstrates that the earth rotates. See scope. Scope. a combining form meaning “instrument for viewing,” used in the formation of compound words: telescope. Microscope, gyroscope. Board. As in control board, mother board, circuit board. before 900; Middle English, Old English bord board,table, shield; cognate with Dutch boord board, bordplate, German Bort, Old Norse borth, Gothic -baurd So all this time we have been speaking Greek! (Mostly) Brings a whole new meaning to the phrase " it's all Greek to me". YES IT IS, LITERALLY!
  49. 1 point
    @nomad It's all sold out. I'll have some again only in 1 week or 2. Please, send me a MP so I'll remember to let you know when it's available. I'll also tell you the price and how to pay.
  50. 1 point
    Inmotion V8: Beauty and the Beast! Tested with Mobile app version 6.1.0 (Android - released the day V8 arrived) and firmware upgraded to latest v1.0.901 (unfortunately in a haste to upgrade the firmware I’ve not made the note of the original firmware version with which the wheel was shipped) – update notes mentions only “Improved performance” so I guess no new feature(s) has been added since the wheels left manufacturer. (The new version 6.1.1 of app was released today later on after publishing this.) The bellow text is a collection of my notes over past week since I’ve received the wheel so it might be a bit “inconsistent” at some places or repeat some information as it was written bit by bit at different times. Apologies for not including any picture at the moment – I might try to add some later if it would help to clarify / demonstrate some points better. I’d be most likely editing this post a bit in following couple of days to correct mistakes and to add missing info. Look: The look is simply fantastic. With Side LED (Atmosphere) lights both on as well as off it’s a big head turner and you need to see it in person as no picture can really show that. Its unique design (partially shared with V5F) featuring a glossy black monolith is exquisite and I simply want to put it on display at my room as a piece of art at exhibition It’s without discussion currently one of the (if not THE) best looking wheels out there. You’ll definitely look cool riding it wearing anything from tuxedo over the office outfit to most casual wear. Design: It shows without any doubts that Inmotion have put a lot of effort in designing the wheel from the ground (well in this case from its older but smaller sibling V5F) rather than repurposing “unfit” e-bike parts as many other current EUC manufacturers. Both motor and controller board are in house designs and rest of the wheel shows that attention to details was put into each part used to build the wheel. There are some very minor nibbles here and there but nothing major affecting the overall quality or functionality of the device. Weight / Dimensions: With 13.6 Kg its 3.2 Kg lighter than KS-16 (840 Wh model at 16.8 Kg) making V8 very slim, light and nimble 16” wheel. If you’re coming from 14” wheel and are concerned about manoeuvrability you don’t need to worry at all. With proper tire pressure you’d not even notice you’re riding larger diameter wheel. If you need to carry the wheel regularly like up / down the stairs at apartment building or at office without elevators or to / from train while commuting you’ll appreciate the lower weight for sure. Although V8 is lighter and slimmer than KS-16 it’s also a bit taller (mainly due to its fixed protruding handle unlike KS-16 where the handle is “sank” a bit as it’s acting as dual purpose trolley handle as well) you might find it a bit too tall to be put comfortably under your legs leaning against the seat while in train, bus or metro. Also as it’s lacking any kind of soft cushions or padding at the top areas it’s more likely to slip or even get scratched while leaning against the seat or wall. Some users placed the supplied ankle pads (same like on V5F) on the top “bulges” but those are not really designed for such curved surface and look a bit odd placed there. I’m currently still debating what exactly to place or glue on those to make top more adhesive and protected against scratches. I’m currently in between a “car door” trimming (black or clear – similar to what @Rehab1 used on his V5F+) and the small silicon protective “legs” / blobs I’ve used on my KS-16 at front / rear and sides to protect its shell from hitting walls and sliding off the seat. But even without any protective layer the top shell bulges are comfortable as they curve inwards towards the top so there is no sharp edge pushing against your legs / calves. Ride modes / Comfort / Motor: There is only one ride mode – no mode configuration or selection is currently possible via app or some “secret” power up procedure or button pushing like on some other wheels. The ride mode is very hard / stiff – much stiffer than Player mode on KS-16 – which I personally prefer / like. If you own or have used the V5F before you’d need a zero “acclimatisation” coming to V8 but for other user it might be a bit of “cultural shock” due the firm mode, higher pedals and slim body. I’m still (literally) finding my footing after riding softer KS-16 for several months / thousand Km. Especially turning requires different approach so I’m still trying to perfect that after only one week / 180 KM on V8. The motor is very quiet – no “jet engine” sound of KS or GW wheels. You can still hear to motor doing it’s hard work but is a quiet friendly purr comparing to “angry” growls of KS / GW. With 800W “horse power” I’ve felt no difference to KS-16 during take-offs, breaking, acceleration or climbing inclines / hills. V8 takes me up the long “test hill” without sweat or any complains of overheating. I’m not sure if it’s mainly due to the really hard riding mode or also better motor management but I’ve not experienced any of the “dead zone” / almost shut-off feeling like sometimes still demonstrates on KS-16 even with latest FW (to clarify KS-16 will not shut off but feel a bit unstable for a brief moment during stand still take-off). Speed / Warnings: Maximum speed is 30 Km/h with default speed limit warning set to 25 Km/h. There is no need to ride a specific amount of Km or use any code to “unlock” the higher speed – simply slide the speed warning slider to desired value. However you’ll receive a warning from the app if you try to set the speed limit above 25 Km/h that you should do so only after riding some distance and having experience and you need to click accept or cancel. The V8’s tilt-back is “mild” but progressive at set speed limit accompanied by audible warning (this is an improvement to how tilt-back works on V5F). Despite that I recommend (as with any other wheel) to test tilt-back in a “controlled environment” by setting the speed limit lower and experience it while aware of it kicking in so you’ll be not startled later one when it happens during normal ride. One thing I’m missing though comparing to KS-16 and some other wheels is multiply speed warning. Personally I prefer an audible warning or even better multiply warning prior the actual tilt-back kicks in. On KS-16 I have warnings set to 27 – 28 – 29 - 30 and I’m yet to reach the actual tilt-back as I always slow down at 3 beeps latest. On V8 the tilt-back activates first with audible warning following which is highly unnatural for me at the moment and makes me feel a little bit uncomfortable so I hope @JumpMasterwill manage to include IM protocol in his WheelLog app so it will be possible to use the “advanced” speed warning via his app instead. Hopefully multiply speed warnings could be implemented in the V8’s firmware later on. Other warning option which I’m used to from Solowheel Xtreme is the pedal vibration which I’d like very much implemented by other wheels / manufacturers including IM. Pedals: Pedals are large (21 x 12 cm at widest points) and comfortable with very good grip (so good actually that I’ve had initially a bit of issue repositioning my feet during ride ) - exactly same as on V5F models. The oval look might be deceiving as the contact area with your feet is big enough even for riders with larger shoe sizes. In terms of comfort I don’t feel any difference to KS-16 pedals even though they’re placed higher (top outer edge of pedal is 15 cm above ground) and closer together (distance between inner edges of pedals is 15 cm) due to the thinner body. What I like most comparing to KS-16 is that you don’t need to use so much force to fold / unfold them so you can do so using your feet instead of bending down all the time to unfold them by hand. On KS-16 you can fold the pedal by foot but needs a bit of “kick” to close them. Pedals are higher above ground and are very slim in profile which allows for nice tight turns with risk of scraping ground. Range: At my limited time using the wheel I’ve managed to average about 32 Km from full charge to 10% battery level at already colder weather with some stronger wind and with load over 90 Kg. Speeds averaging above 20 Km/h, reaching regularly my comfort cruising speed of 25 – 26 Km/h. Mostly flat terrain on bicycle lanes without too aggressive accelerations or breaking. Comparing to KS-16 / 840Wh where I can reach comfortably 50 – 55 Km at the same conditions it’s indeed “downgrade” but at the cost of lighter, slimmer and better looking wheel. Replaceable battery advertised by IM as a way to extend its range is at its current implementation IMO the V8’s weakest link at the moment so unless IM will makes some major changes in the shell and battery fitting design please do not consider this as a viable regular option. I’ll return to this point later on in separate post once I’ll investigate further the current amount of screws to be removed to free up the battery as my previous rant on this issue might have been a bit off. Handle / Motor Cut-off button: Integrated motor cut-off button in the bottom part of the handle is a nice QOL feature but unfortunately not as well implemented as it might have been. The cut –off function could be turned off via app so if you don’t plan to use it or want / need to use safety / training belt attached to the handle you can switch it off. The button has also secondary function – to turn off and back on the side LEDs. As this function is not that clearly explained in the supplied manual here is how it works: with the wheel powered on hold the cut-off button and then long press the power button (the same press as if you’d turn on / off the head light) to switch the side LEDs off or on. The default settings is on and the wheel remembers the last setting after power off (unlike the head light which always turns off (similar way like KS-16 always defaults to “Auto” mode). You can also turn the side LEDs via mobile app but only using the main app, not via the notification bar quick access menu. The issue I have with the button itself is that it protrudes way to much out of the bottom part of the handle – even when fully depressed it’s still about 6 - 7 mm above (well below looking from the top) of the surface of the handle making it a bit uncomfortable to carry the wheel around or hold it for prolonged period of time. It also “wobbles” a bit making this feel even worse. It would be much better if the button will activate during firs few millimetres of depressing it but that it would actually completely flush with the handle’s surface when fully depressed. Otherwise the handle itself (ignoring the button annoyance) is large, firm and comfortable and comparing to KS-16 which uses “dual purpose” handle for both trolley handle and main handle (which can feel a bit flimsy at time and possess risk of trolley handle not fully locking in when collapsed) and it has also benefit of being able to be used as a locking point for the “bike lock” which I’d not recommend trying on KS-16 as you can simply extend the trolley handle and rip it off. Not that I’d ever leave any of my EUCs anywhere in public locked to anything else than very scary looking dog Battery Level indicator: The battery indicator is same as on V5F nice large “battery chunks” sections in nice blue colour when full with last two sections turning yellow and red when battery level drops. While it’s placed on the top section of the wheel in front of the power button and meant to be seen from wheel while riding it’s not as visible as it should be mainly during day time (even when overcast or in shadows) especially if you’re taller as first of all its hidden bellow the dark (smoked) translucent plastic shell (the same as on the side covers) and it’s tilted to the front due to the curve of the shell. During the past week (with not so much sunny weather) I’ve struggled to see the indicator at all during the ride. I’m not really sure how to improve this without affecting the slick curves of the wheel as the indicator would need to be either sticking out a bit from the front curve of the shell or be mounted more towards centre but then you’d need most likely to bend down to even see it . I’ve taped a small piece of plastic mirror (for a test) if front of the indicator and that helped a bit but of course it looks ugly. Stand: The “integrated stand” – which is simply a bit of strengthened lip added to each end of the shell at end of the “fender” is basically unusable. Unless the wheel stands on the perfectly flat and smooth surface the wheel will tip over at slightest sneeze or blow of wind. It’s basically usable only for a quick photo ops but I personally would not use it even at home to store the wheel as its dangerous leaving it like that. This is unfortunately common issue for the waste majority of the wheels out there as integrated “kick stands” are not really implemented well or at all (that includes probably the best attempt so far by Ninebot). Combining this with the fact that top of the shell has no soft / adhesive coating on the sides it’s practically impossible to lean the wheel against the wall or furniture without danger of it slipping off or even getting scratched. I remember @Jason McNeilmentioning something about IM including the attachable soft pads with production version of V8 but that this has not happened so far and only standard ankle pads (like with V5F) are included which are a bit hard to properly attach to the top shell “bulges”. Mobile app: While mobile app is at the “top of the pack” comparing to many other EUC mobile apps out there it still have some space for an improvement. The app is clearly professionally designed with simple minimalistic but pleasing UI. It is highly “social media” oriented with 3 out of 4 tabs being used for Sharing (of text, pictures or videos) and commenting or liking the shares, events, clubs, rankings and your profile with collecting points and coins. The community seems to be pretty live though predominantly Chinese as the app covers all current IM products (not only EUCs). The most “important” part for EUC / SCV (as IM call it) details and configuration is at the moment a bit “Spartan” with bare minimum of info provided. Current trip, week ranking, mileage, speed, board temperature (only for V8) and battery level in % is all you get. No average or maximum speeds, current, power or battery voltage as you might be used from KS-16 or other wheels. At the moment it’s unclear if any of those additional values are even provided by (or possible to request from) the wheel via BT LE communication protocol but @JumpMasteris currently researching this to see if IM protocol could be included in his fabulous WheelLog app. Apart of the main IM app there is also the notification bar applet included (indicated by small red i in left corner of the notification bar) which remains active even after closing / exiting the main app. After pulling down the notification bar on your phone it provides a quick access menu with option to connect to the wheel (either of the apps will currently not connect automatically to the wheel upon launch), switch on / off headlight, power off the wheel and display battery level status. The quick menu bar could be closed by tapping at the small cross at its right side. The one of the issue with the app design itself is that it’s using in some areas (like main SCV screen) very small font and even the icons for some functions so it’s pretty difficult to read / see even on large screen phones (it feels more like tablet app). Other obvious issue is the localization. Once again while it’s much better than many other (the “Chinglish” is really minimal here with only about two or three expressions / names translated a bit unusual or incorrect way) there are places still either missing completely or at least partially translations or using the Chinese instead. Finally the app is clearly targeted more as social app rather than EUC / Wheel companion app. While you can perform all necessary service and configuration tasks via SCV / Features option including FW update, diagnostic of the wheel and DIY LED light designing it lacks a bit at the main ride screen as already mentioned above. The app also always default to first “Social page” tab screen instead to more desirable SCV ride screen and will not connect automatically to the wheel so multiply button taps are required to get into “ride” mode. App will also not register the current trip distance if you’ll not connect to the wheel prior the ride. Hopefully most of this could be improved a bit with some push from / help of @Jason McNeil and other distributors and customers. I’ll discuss the DIY LED design feature in a separate post. Replaceable battery: This was one of the main advertised points of V8 but the final implementation of this feature is currently more than disappointing. I’ve already ranted about that here in this thread and I’ll return to this point a bit later once I’ll find another spare hour or so to waste with opening the side shell and removing the battery. I also might have spoken too soon in regards of the amount of the screw holding the battery itself in the shell (11 as per my previous count) as I’ve gave up halfway through removing those with battery being still attached and have realized only later on that some of the screws I’ve included in the count might be actually holding the batter casing itself together rather than fixing the whole battery pack to the shell so I’ll re-visit this point once I’ll build up enough “courage” to struggle with removing the outer shell again. Nevertheless even if the battery pack is being hold only by 3 or 4 screws its still 3 or 4 too many. Trolley handle: Trolley handle is a bit longer than on KS-16 and its separate from the main shell handle which I personally think is a better option / solution than combined handle as on KS-16. Fully extended the top of the handle is 89 cm above ground while KS-16 is only 83 cm. It’s a little bit wobbly and placed asymmetrically outside of the centre of the gravity / wheel unlike on KS-16 (but much better than for example MSuper V3). Unlike sturdiest KS-16 handle due it’s placement in parallel with the wheel rather than diagonally it’s suitable for both right and left-handed use though if you’ll push it with left hand with handle towards you it will be in “reverse” with headlight facing back so at dark you’ll lose the “torch” function. Tire / Fenders / Mudflap: The tire has been “upgraded” from V5F and pre-production models of V8’s from 1.95” to 2.125” Kenda tire with different (IMO better) thread and feels very comfortable at 3.2 bar. Factory recommended tire pressure is 2.8 bar and wheel arrived with only 2 bar so please check your pressure before riding. One small complain I have though is that tire is almost hitting the the enforced fender edges (“stands”) – there is barely 2 - 3 mm space between the tire and edge of the fender so if the tire picks up some larger pieces of dirt, stones, leaves and so on it makes a bit scary and unpleasant noises and can eventually cause the wheel / tire to get stuck or blocked resulting in faceplant. IM also departed from optional Mudguard mount like on V5F though with a bit of creativity this could be added via DIY. The mudguard is definitely needed as even at dry conditions the tire spits up a lot of dust which then lands on the whole back section of the wheel as well as your trousers and shoes. Head & Tails lights: Strangely enough IM departed from the fabulous Head / Tail / Brake lights set present at V5F models to only head light and tail “logo” without any break light implementation. As why this happened we can only speculate – maybe the tail / brake lights were clashing with the side Atmosphere LED lights – who knows. Either way for those of us who want or are required by law to have both lights or even have them on all the time it’s a bit of let-down. The tail logo can’t be under any circumstances considered as a tail light so you’d either need to fit a separate light or can try to use the Atmosphere side lights. I’ve manged to make the design which emulates front white and red tail light using the LEDs and it’s fairly visible even when looking at the wheel directly from the rear or front but indeed it’s not as bright during daylight. The headlight can be easily switched on or off either by long press of the power button while the wheel is turned on or via main as well as notification bar app. Unfortunately the last state is not saved and always default to off after powering the wheel but on other hand it’s much easier (and quieter) to switch it on than on KS-16. One quick tap on power button to switch on the wheel followed by long press to switch on the lights and you’re ready to glide under a second and half. No more hassle of fiddling with multiply button presses like on KS-16 and waking up half of your neighbourhood with loud “Hello Kingsong” shouts”. Luckily you can adjust sound volume on V8 via mobile app as well as replace each sound with your own (even “silence”). I'm yet to test the brightness of the light in the dark but it doesn't seem much stronger than KS-16 and it has vey short throw very close to the wheel so it's not really designed / useful for night riding at unlit areas without additional light mounted on the wheel. Atmosphere / Side LED lights: Atmosphere / Side LED lights are chapter on its own. Despite opposing this feature heavily when the V8 was first announced I’ve actually found it to be most fun. I’ve spent whole first night designing different patterns and staring mesmerised at the blinking wheel. I’ll prepare bigger write-up just about this feature alone in a day or two (hopefully as the weather is getting worse day by day so this will be only fun I’d most likely have with V8 anyway). Until then one word of warning – do not upload to many DIY designs to the wheel as it seems it has limited amount of memory to store the designs and currently it’s unclear how to remove those afterwards or reset the wheel! Additional features / functions: Unlike KS-16 the V8 doesn’t include Bluetooth speaker(s). The tail speaker is for the audible warnings only and it’s pretty loud even at default 50% of volume. It though doesn’t seem to be waterproofed as you can see the speaker membrane through the holes in the shell. Maybe some waterproof folia could be added to address this? Also the speaker volume is the same independent of the state or speed of the wheel. It would be a great QOL improvement if the wheel / app would have at least two volume setting – one for stationary wheel (like at home or in office) and one while moving. Currently I need to change the volume settings at least 4 times a day to not startle anyone at home or office while connecting to wheel but to be able at the same time to hear the warning while driving. Having an option of the dynamic volume increase based on speed would be even better. For each audible warning you can use one of the predefined or extra downloaded sounds and spoken voices, use your own audio files or record new including "silence" if you prefer to "mute" the specific warning. There is no USB or any other charging port available and it seems that reverse protection is present on the main charging port as well so that one can’t be used to provide external power either. Also there is no reset button like on V5F despite the same rubber cover being used for DC charging port. Power button: Power button function is the same as on V5F though it has been changed from touch button to actual physical short press momentarily switch under the rubber cover. The short press on the button turns the wheel on / off, long press turns on / off the headlight and long press while holding the motor cut-off button under the handle will turn off / on the side LED Atmosphere lights. While this seems to be a standard with IM wheels it seems a bit “illogical” to me as I’d say the more dangerous / important function of turning the whole wheel on / off should have been via long press (as on many other wheels including KS-16) and lights using the short tap only. While the current setup makes switching the wheel on / off really quick – almost instant comparing to other wheels – it feels also a bit unsafe as it’s much easier to switch the wheel on or off by accident by quickly brushing against the power button. It actually happened twice to me in past two day that I’ve unintentionally switched the wheel off while grabbing it during stepping off. Surely it’s less dangerous accidentally to turn off or on light than the whole wheel? Maybe IM could include this as a configurable option in the future FW update. Included accessories and documentation: In the box is included apart of the wheel itself (or a couple of bricks if you’re unlucky ) charger packaged in the separate cardboard box, AC cable, ankle pads, user manual (in acceptable English) and warranty card (in my case for some strange reason with cover in English but rest in Spanish). Wheel is shipped double-boxed. No training belt or training wheels are included. Charger port & Charger: Charger is standard “slow” 84C / 1.5A charger same as with V5F but unfortunately IM has departed again at last minute from their unique branded USB-like yellow rectangular DC charging socket and plug (apparently due to the issues during certification process) and made last moment change to “howerboard” like 3 pin charging socket and plug instead (looks like miniature version of GX-16 sockets and plugs used by most of the current EUCs). Apart of making the V8 chargers incompatible with any other current IM product including V5F it’s now a bit hassle to insert the DC plug into the charging socket as you need to rotate it around to find the correct orientation (and it really doesn’t help the moulded “handle” on the plug is not aligned with the wheel in any way when plug is inserted) and you also need to use both hands to remove the plug from the socket. Also it makes it difficult to use alternative / faster charger or for example Charge Doctor. I’ve already ordered several plugs and sockets and I’m awaiting the delivery as I currently feel a bit “blind” not being able to see how much power is exactly being pushed into the battery pack or not being able to use fast charge or early charge cut-off. Indeed the same issue would be present if the original IM DC plug has been used. Finishing / Quality of assembly (Stickers): As mentioned earlier the design, quality and built is superior to almost any other wheel currently on market though a little bit more attention might have been paid during the assembly process. In my case for example both the product sticker (in the gap on the side shell cover opposite the trolley handle) as well as the serial number sticker were “slapped” on the wheel without too much attention so the first one has bubbles which can’t be chased off and the second is a bit diagonally instead of parallel with the edge of the wheel plus its white sticker on the otherwise entirely black wheel. Both drive my OCD crazy … Surely it’s not that much to ask to spare extra 2 seconds and place both sticker on properly? Maybe use black sticker for the black wheel or at least hide the white sticker at some less exposed place like inside of the trolley handle gap? On another wheel freshly unpacked from the box there were a visible scratches at the motor casing near to the valve clearly caused by careless employee filling up the tire with the air. Side “cushions”: Side “cushions” (unlike on V5F) are only bulges in the side translucent smoked plastic covers without any soft or adhesive surface. The top edges are curved inwards so you’ll not experience any pain touching those with your legs / calves. IM supplies ankle pads (like on V5F) which some users applied to those top bulges but they don’t look so good there as they’re not design to be attached to such curved area. Overall: I’m happy with V8 despite several minor shortcomings here and there of which none has impact on the ride quality or safety (maybe apart of the fender edges being too close to tire) and most of them could be resolved on existing model by firmware and app update only. The most critical "issue" in regards of swappable battery would require shell redesign though if done properly (if at all) moving the innards of current wheel into the new shell should be possible if this particular point would be major issue for any of the current V8 owners I’m still novice at this wheel and need some more time to become more comfortable riding it without concentrating too much on the wheel movement. It took me over month to get comfortable on KS-16 so I’m not worried about such feelings only one week after starting with the wheel. At the time of posting I've been riding the V8 daily (weather and slow / long charging permitting) for past 7 days since it has arrived last Thursday from @Jason McNeil and have 180 Km under my heels so far ... If I’ve missed out any points you’ve wondered about please ask in the discussion below.
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