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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/20/2016 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    As I promised, here a video of me driving the V5. I am really loving it. 50km so far...
  2. 9 points
    When I first started riding I didn't keep a journal of events, but I sort of remember what happened even though I try to forget. I'll share it with you now. Day 1 - Turned on EUC, tried to get on, epic fail, injured shin. Ow. Day 2 - Put training wheels on, was able to scoot around a parking lot while holding the belt/leash! Yah baby! So easy! Day 3 - Removed training wheels, at hockey rink, trying to get some forward lean going, veer and crash to the side. More shin pain. Day 4 - Practicing in my kitchen. Zooming back and forth in between chairs beside me. Making black marks on the floor due to weird Generic greasy tire. Day 5 - Learned a few new swear words. Taped some side pads on. Kept crashing wheel in parking lot. How the heck do those Youtube people actually get on this thing? Day 6 - In denial - blaming cheap Generic wheel for likely being defective since I cannot ride it. Likely never will. Wasted my $300! Day 17 - Finally able to ride around in a basketball court but waving arms to balance and turn like a mad man. Day 65 - Cruising around the neighbourhood like a celebrity enjoying all the fame and fortune!
  3. 6 points
    Jul 15, Friday morning: I've been at my mother's country house for one day. The EUC is expected to arrive on Tuesday next week, but as I wake up and grab my phone (always the first thing I do) I notice a failed delivery attempt at around 9:30 am. Dang! Now I'll still have to wait until Monday. Although it's earlier by one day than originally expected, the wait is almost unbearable. Jul 18, Monday afternoon: Ok, time to collect. I finally have the wheel but cannot ride it yet. It's now time to go back to the country house, a 3 hr drive. I did have just enough time to unpack it and attach the included mudguard and trolley handle (thanks @Jason McNeil). First impression: it looks gorgeous! Jul 19, Monday evening: Dinner is eaten and I have free play (I'm an adult, but I still play). Yey! I don't have any protection for the wheel so I decide to start on the grass. After spending half an hour grass-wise I give up and move to the guest house porch where there are some railings and such to grab on to. What a difference! Another 15 minutes here and I can go from one side to the other (about 1.5 meters) most of the time without falling. I now move over to the garbage bin by the gravel road outside the house. Having tied a rope around the handle (to save the EUC in case of a fall, not to hold on to tightly), and disabled the lift button in the handle (important if using a rope!), it's now time to try my luck. Grabbing hold of the bin I can easily get on the wheel (although my shins are starting to feel bruised). But I fall. And fall. This is going nowhere, who am I kidding? And then, suddenly, I don't fall -- until about 50 meters down the road. Calling it a victory, it's time for bed. Total training time so far: about an hour. Jul 19, Tuesday morning: After a quick breakfast, it's wheel time! I start by setting max speed to 15 kph, get on the wheel, and immediately fall. Second attempt: yes, I'm doing it! And this time I ride all the way to the mailbox, some 750 meters away! I ride back to the house. Reflection: 15 kph feels fast! Still, I want to try higher speed, so this time I set it to 20. Down to the mailbox I go, and then back. Nice! 15 kph now seems silly slow and 20 is the new black. Upping to 25. Down and back. Wow! It's hard to imagine wanting to go faster than this. Time to cut (well, untie) the rope and re-enable the lift button. I go back and forth for maybe 30 minutes, constantly noticing improvements in balance and stance. Time for a break, my feet and legs are killing me! Soon I'll write about how the afternoon went, but right now it's time to check the mail!
  4. 4 points
    The main difference between isolated and non-isolated (apart of the inner differences in the circuitry / module itself) is that on non isolated converters one of the potentials (usually the ground) is connected / common while on isolated ones the input and output are completely separated (hence isolated). Depends on the application you might need / prefer one or another.
  5. 3 points
    That isn't very creative @HEC. Now this would turn heads...
  6. 3 points
    Similar kilometers with other brands...and so what, who cares? I'm not interested of your mileage and I'm not looking for anyone's validation about mine. You are the big WINNER of this thread! Billions are ready to give their hard earned money to possess the most precious treasure in the world - NB P....gazillions will follow... Enjoy the victory!
  7. 3 points
    This board doesn't come from us. we already stopped producing this low speed controller 2 years ago.
  8. 3 points
    Nomatter what you believe in: A, E,...NB, P,..., the water between science and belief is usually too deep, to lead to any constructive discussion.
  9. 3 points
    Nice diary! Could be written by me one year ago except the long distance to the Mailbox as my letters are thrown through my front door How ever, there are many reasons to cycle arround. My new hobby is to drive the trashcans to the street on tuesday evenings and playing Ingress. I had hurting legs and feet for the first weeks altough I am a trained runner (at least 20km per week). This took the most of the time: getting relaxed on the wheel without terrifying seconds because of bumps, changing ground. It needs sometime to stop thinking about you´re driving a uniwheel and driving it routinely. I wish you nice and safe rides without any faceplants! Keep on practicing
  10. 3 points
    I finally found out what SCV stands for: Sensor Controlled Vehicle. "The INMOTION SCV is a smart electric, self balancing sensor controlled vehicle. With instinctive operation and a thrilling drive experience, INMOTION SCV provides you a whole new way of urban commuting and touring."
  11. 3 points
    Sorry, no juicy bits (are you sure you're on the right forum?). ? Jul 19, Tuesday afternoon and night: This time I'll just jot down my thoughts in the form of an unordered list. - Progress is slower now, but my low-speed riding is still improving rapidly. - Turning sharply at low speed works sometimes, but sometimes not. - Getting on without support is still hard, but doesn't feel impossible anymore. - The wheel feels very powerful! Accelerating to top speed in the middle of a 12-15% incline is no sweat at all. - Range seems good. I'll have to do more testing, but I believe I could probably get around 35 km out of one charge. - The built-in headlight works really quite well. I went on a trip to (you guessed it) the mailbox at pitch black nighty-night sleepy-time and had no trouble staying on the gravel and on the wheel. Although the light gave me at least five meters, I did notice that I was only looking about three meters ahead. - The light also came in handy as I put away the string trimmer that I had left out. Good thing the former comes on a wheel! - Riding on the grass is now possible for the most part (some bumps are still too big for me to handle). - Total riding distance so far: 32.6 km.
  12. 3 points
    I was looking for a product that would both protect and still allow for the awesome graphics on my NB1 E+ Flame Edition to show through. I just found the best cosmetic auto trim for that application. It is clear plastic auto trim with 3M self adhesive backing. The profile is 3/8" thick so when placed on the high points of your EUC's shell that are most likely to become damaged from a fall this trim will protect it. 1 roll will circle around your EUC's shells on both sides but if you want to cover additional areas best to purchase 2 rolls. Each roll is 16 foot long. Cost around $11.00 per roll at Amazon: .https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WT63M9Y/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Very easy to apply. I did my NB1 in about 5 minutes. No heating. It bends and follows the contours perfectly. This product would be perfect for all EUCs. I plan to apply on my Inmotion V5F+ when it arrives.
  13. 2 points
    I was thinking that I wanted to write down my progress in EUC riding, sort of like a diary, so why not share it with you guys? This topic will focus on my thoughts and impressions as I learn to ride, but I will also write a little bit about the EUC itself (Inmotion V5F+) since I know that some of you are interested in hearing what a n00b thinks of it, compared to someone with a little more experience. My next post will be about my first day riding the vehicle (ok, toy).
  14. 2 points
    The cover is not included - costs extra €50.
  15. 2 points
    Battery charged again. It took about 5,5h by stock charger. Charger used 0,82kWh (820Wh) from electricity network. I don't know what is charger efficiency, at least it warms up pretty hot. Charging current is 1,75A (according to the charger specs). So 5,5h*1,75A = 9,62Ah. 9,62Ah*67V=644Wh. I'm pretty sure that actual amount is closer to 8Ah, referring to voltages before charging. After 5h of charging charger dropped current to half. It took 0,66A from socket at beginning. After 5h of charging i check and it was dropped to 0,33A. When green led turned on it still take 0,13A
  16. 2 points
    I do not know is it about any tricks in this thread. I will not try to learn any tricks, I just ride, can go over edgestone and want to handle my euc well. Today I was in very small city and I am feeling like a real fame riding through the market square. I think you can just ride and enjoy of it, and there are special people to make tricks.... Thats all I want, and I love to ride euc so much that my wife sometimes wonder that. Happy summer Pasi
  17. 2 points
    Yes, I did and deliberately looked for the instructional ones. But I fell across this forum sort of late...three weeks after my generic has arrived. Otherwise, I would probably not have bought generic EUC but branded one like @thefork did. Riding EUC requires brain & muscle skill which is completely new. I remember in the beginning, on every new path, territory, environment, etc., I was loosing balance because the brain could not cope with the all new information. Not to mention how the wheel wobbled my first times in the crowd...I even thought mechanical/electronic failure had happened...and now I eat ice cream (both hands occupied) while slaloming among the crowd
  18. 2 points
    @Fahrtwind now we know what you mean with: driving on one place :-) good driving skills! nice wheel!
  19. 2 points
    My Firewheel and generic 14-inch wheel do the same thing when I put them up on blocks like that. I don't think it represents real life though. If you were riding the wheel it would not be possible for it to accelerate to maximum speed as quickly as it does there with no load. Since it seems like all wheels shut down when pushed beyond their maximum speed limits (the point at which you also reach zero torque and the wheel can't balance you anymore) I assume there is some good reason for it? I definitely think it is highly dangerous to set the warnings up very high and very close to each other. A speed difference of 1 or 2 kmh is almost nothing when you think of the quick acceleration required for the wheel to keep you balanced. Even if the wheel didn't shut off it would be unable to balance you and you would either fall forward or backward.
  20. 2 points
    I don't think either of you are winners in this thread, you both look a bit silly arguing over something like this. Give it a rest!
  21. 2 points
    LOL, I enjoyed your memories Seriously...you must be kidding, don't wanna flaunt but here is video from my actually second full day of riding. I got my first generic late in the Friday evening 4 Dec, took it outside immediately but 130wh battery gave up after an hour and so, three more sessions next day and one more in Sunday 06 Dec when I took the video.
  22. 2 points
    @HunkaHunkaBurningLove Haha, it was very similar for me. Only Day 3 for me was like: I can go forward without falling now (mostly). Lets check how fast it can go! After getting to 14-15 km/h I wheeled over medium sized crack in pavement which catapulted me forward, hurting my elbow quite bad. I had to wait another week before trying again, because I could not use my arm at all due to pain. (had really big dark purple bruise too) Bought some safety gear after that and was more careful and everything went smooth since then.
  23. 2 points
    Fair enough, what about one that has closed firmware but has the main variables written to flash memory and a built in motor profiler like the MCU companies supply? For example it would have an xml file with current sense ratio, voltage divider ratio, what RPM speed alert occurs, low battery voltage level and basic things. Users could change via USB or bluetooth app and firmware would still be safe.
  24. 2 points
    Isolated lacks a physical connection, it's transferred via a magnetic field in a transformer. It has a few advantages, if you try to draw too much current the transformer magnetic field collapses and nothing breaks. If there's any sort of surge or failure the damage will usually stop at the transformer, non isolated ones will kill everything they are connected to. You can also use them for floating voltages, take mosfet drivers in a motor controller as an example, they must be supplied with 15v higher than the voltage at the motor, if your motor is running on 100v where do you get the 115v from? All you need to do is take a 15v isolated dc-dc converter and ground it to the motor phase, the isolated converter will now output what ever voltage the motor phase is + 15v. The downside is they can't carry much current for their size and cost more.
  25. 2 points
    I tested how far i can rode on a single charge. Yesterday i rode 20km. Today i did 7,9km, 9.9km, 6,8km and 5.7km trips. In total 50,3km. After 38km i had 41% / 59,3V left. After 48km 33% / 58,15V and after 50,3km 32% / 58,07V. Temps remain below 50C (41-46C after trips) Batteries still have charge remaining maybe even to ride 10km trip. But i want to spare batteries and i'm not going to test it. Good to know however how long i can drive if necessary. Average speeds were over 20kph. Not much stops and pretty flat terrain. edit: After ~30min cooling down i measured cells. 3.67-3.68V left = 58,85V total. So still juice left ;D It seems to be pretty safe to rode 50km on a single charge. I really love these lipos (photo of one battery stats below) edit2: Sometime i try to do a one long 50km trip and record logs. I'll publish gw app log and endomondo stats then edit3: Now I recorded only one log. It's from first trip today (7,9km). In log total distance is 8,2km but 7,9km is real distance measured by gps. You can download log here. At start battery level were about 60%: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1669036/euc/data-160720-072309.csv
  26. 2 points
    Contacted jason and he is mailing one out. Glad i have a backup wheel in the interim, its hard for me to go even a couple days without a wheel.
  27. 2 points
    So - several times I've already received shouts like "Welcome to the future baby" or "Oh yeah - future" so maybe I should ride around in this: http://www.halloweencostumes.co.uk/back-future-marty-mcfly-costume.html
  28. 2 points
    @Juick Well this is a nice workaround I know what I am talking about... From my own experience: don´t ignore the beeps even your wheel is boring slow. I did it in the first days of driving my first Airwheel and faceplanted badly as the EUC shooted away under my feet behind me. My body tried to brake down the speed for three steps an then gave up. It needed months until the hurt in my shoulders disappeared! If you learned how to drive without crashing the wheel and you are sure you will stay on with this nice hobby, invest some money in reliability and safety an get a quality wheel.
  29. 2 points
    my last post on this thread, then i will follow you!..its just a copy/paste from FB....3 days ago.....from the well reputated ninebot UK seller speedyfeet, an answer to a Ninebot P interest: "current P's being sold are not working correctly - so really pot luck with any that are being sold now. The P wont be released this year unfortunately. But will keep you posted on our page when they are!i so as i am no gambler, Sorry, i will have to wait another year for the official release, till i buy the best ewheel in the world! bye, folks!
  30. 2 points
    May I quote myself? I am out of here. Enjoy...
  31. 2 points
    puuuh once again... you would not believe, but: we can easiliy adjust the tilt forward or backward to whatever we want by app...you know: we have modern wheels...not from last year ;-)
  32. 2 points
    Now available in AppStore v 2.1 with the fixes and now you may access your map track from the graphics running dashboard. No need to change application for seeing where you are.
  33. 2 points
    Wow those are pricey! But in hindsight, after adding up the cost of all the garbage purchases I have made I probably could have splurged for some quality items from the get go. I seem to be in the buy cheap buy twice or thrice category of purchasers. . Lesson learned! Most of those cool looking knee protectors on AliEx are pure crap! They only look good in photos, and it's just like velcroing some thinly padded pieces of cheap plastic on. Sigh...
  34. 2 points
    like Super Sport said: everone cam ride this one! i needed about 5 minutes to get comfortable....and as i needed 3 hours for the first meters with the EUC...I am not so sporty or fit... but mini pro is easy....and much much more stable than any hoverboard...just because its a platform and does not have a moving part in the middle like the hoverboards... for steering you just lean your body left/ right and automatically your knee push the right direction...its very easy..to easy for me, so that after 3 days it gets boring because i was missing some "dynamics"...curves on higher speed do not feel natural gliding like on a EUC.... but everyone likes different...qualitywise i was stunned!
  35. 2 points
    680wh and 820wh and 1640wh.
  36. 2 points
    Just sold mine original 340wh battery some time ago. I had same problems. Low range and also little too big voltagedrops when accelerating. I tried to find another 340wh pack but did'nt find any reasonably. I decided change to lipo batteries. They give more amps than li-ion packs wich was one reason to chose them for me. I also have worked with them in years because i have rc multicopters and planes. Now i have four 4S 10Ah lipos in a serial connection. When charging i normally use gotway original charger and just monitor cells with external balancers/battery doctors. About ten charges now and not need to balance cells yet. Just before charging all cells are usually in perfect balance. After charge they are between 4.18-4.20v/cell. Im not sure is it because low charge/discharge amps or why they stay in so perfect balance but it is only good. I have also good balance charger. I charge batteries separately or in paraller with it if they go unbalance. All batterywires comes to one side which makes monitoring easier. I removed skrews and made quick hitch for side cover. Lipos works like a dream. Voltage didn't drop even at hard accelerates. And now i can drive about 40km fast driving. But they need some knowledge and care. I dont recommend lipos if you need carefree solution. They give extra performance but need some extra care too.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    I rode quite a lot last night - about 7km until my battery died, but I was at 29psi vs. the 35psi recommended minimum. Only fell 4-5 times which is a big plus in my books. Actually went down to the grocery store and back! In relation to range & batteries, I'm a bit disappointed that it died after only 7km. Even though my pressure was low, the spec sheet states 20km range and I was not anywhere near that. I'm assuming that the batteries are just used laptop cells. How much does it cost to replace the batteries with normal ones from a reputable manufacturer? In regards to low battery cutoff, the unit beeps loudly and then gradually slows before shut down, so that has been good so far. The other thing I've been noticing is that I get the overspeed/overtilt warning a lot, not sure why.
  39. 1 point
    If you start writing about me in your diary, I'm gonna be just a little concerned. I know I'm on your mind, but stop thinking about me. It just won't work out. I've been promised to Kate Upton, and I'm in the middle of a torrid love triangle between her and Candice Swanepoel. Although I have yet to find out the name of the cad who knocked Candice up, I suspect it's someone with a name that rhymes with DuperDorp.
  40. 1 point
    My girlfriend is starting to look at wheelemetrcis OpenSource app done by @esaj but she will make one more simple for final users, not to much technical. The idea is to make one app to configure MicroWorks 30B4 in the hope that will also work with 30C and future boards. Any OpenSource firmware may follow the same commands and will be compatible. I want to extend to configure the RGB LED strip :-)
  41. 1 point
    You are appreciated... Opensource app for generic users is very good. We are also preparing New app.
  42. 1 point
    Im not sure about V5 (yet), but with my EUC you only need to connect to phone via bluethooth (without app, only in bluethooth settings) and then it automatically plays any audio from EUC speakers.
  43. 1 point
    I used to have similar problem with my generic EUC. My solution? Inmotion V5F is on the way, expecting delivery on friday.
  44. 1 point
    The angle of any actual quality wheel can be corrected modified in the App. It is a usual as a front light in the car (and in tht EUC lol) and not worth to talk about. Of course you can set a tilt forward if you like it. Ok however, I like the Wheel standing in position when my COG is in centered to the wheel. I never changed it. The whole discussion is worthless as the NB P ist a burst soap bubble Edit: @KingSong69 was quicker!
  45. 1 point
    Ah I see. Take a look at what @Jason McNeil has to say on the matter. For me the 9bot was not even a consideration. https://www.ewheels.com/product/inmotion-v5f/
  46. 1 point
    Yes, that is an IPS 191, and it's an excellent wheel!
  47. 1 point
    Ninebot has to hurry up and change/rethink their qualitiy management. There are a lot of news about Ninebot in the last months (bad Firmware Updates, frozen Boards, stopped release, stopped reirelease, changes in their commercial network -> established vendors stand in the rain). Their products seem to ripe at the customer who pays with money and pain. I drove the E+ for one year. First moment I really got disappointed build quality wise was when I opend it because of a battery rattling around while driving over bumps. I found a battery compartment that started to destroy the Battery shell, battery loose etc. Not sealed correctly against water, dust everywhere! Why the customer has to do this?? It is a beta state wheel. It rides nice and smooth, no question. But there were too many things that destroyed my dream bubble of a reliable high quality product, since the FW 1.4.0 desaster I sold it. There are a lot of remarkable Ninebot alternatives out there. Everybody seems to know it, except Ninebot... If have to correct myself, two exceptions that don´t know there are remarkable alternatives
  48. 1 point
    You are wrong... He is one of the "main" distributor in Germany for ALL kind of Euc's...ninebot, airwheel, ips, gotway, kingsong.... so no need to think that he is Gotway bashing when he is talking about wrong done mosfets or to small pedals on gw! its kind of a bit hard for distributors, pro-repairers here in discussion, Or? in one way we want to know and learn from there experience and get as much tips and secrets from them... On the other hand: when they state their personal opinion it is often marked as an special brand bashing and pushing their interests! on "pro" forums because of that, distributors are not allowed to do anythinig otherwise than advertising in a special sub-forum..... as we are just a little small group of freaks a....ok paris has some more of them :-) am at least happy that he is sharing his experience and not staying quiet my 2 cents...
  49. 1 point
    I start by planning a suitable configuration. First I measured the battery compartment (its 180x143x40mm), same size on both side. After that i search batteries which will fit. I've bought a lot from Hobbyking so i searched in the first instance from their store. First idea was to buy two 8S lipo. But i didn't find suitable models. And my existing lipo balance charger can charge only 2S-6S batteries. So i decided to buy four 4S batteries. I found two suitable models: Graphene: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=89635 + little better C-rating (but less capa so not big difference in amps) + Thinner (separate BMS will fit on top of it) + A little more advanced technology. May last longer (more cycle lifes) - Expensive - Less capasity I decided to chose Multistar 10Ah http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=65272 + More capasity + Cheaper (53€ * 4 = 212€) - Less C rating but 10C is enough for EUC use (i get 100A constant and 200A for 10s) Multistars comes with XT90- connectors. I changed em to XT60 and i also extended two battery cables (so they reach battery compartment at other side). For balance leads i used extension cables. I wanted all connections at one side because it's easier to monitor cells and charge batteries separated if needed. Batteries sits very firmly in housing. I fastened them with high quality velcro (first photo). It's still easy to remove batteries if needed, but they dont loose accidentally. I made my own serial connection cable (second photo). It has connector for four batteries, chargeport and motherboard. Total costs were somewhere between 250-280€ (batteries, xt60- connectors, battery medics, 12awg lead, locks for cover etc.). I had balance charger ready so not need to buy it. it's otherwise might not be absolutely necessary. Soldering iron was also needed but i have one already. I have used battery medics only in monitoring. If i need to balance packs i use my existing balance charger. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31468__HobbyKing_8482_Battery_Medic_System_2S_6S_EU_Warehouse_.html It's possible to balance packs with battery medics but it's important that all four batteries are in same cell voltages. Its easy to balance one pack cells with battery doctor but harder to try fit all four packs in same cell voltages. Not impossible however. For example i can set discharge voltage to 4.1V/cell and then discharge all batteries to that. Balance charger themselves does not pay much (cheapest ones are about 15-20€). As i wrote earlier, packs stays in very good balance even though they are charged by original gotway charger. You can charge at least ten times before some cells are very very slightly unbalanced. So using lipos are rather carefree but just in case i always check the cell voltages before charging. Because of that i installed quick relase system in side cover. Today i charged batteries with my balance charger. it was not even necessary, but I just wanted to try it. I used paraller charging board. With it i can paraller charge all packs at same time. But now i charged them in pairs. (last photo). They weren't unbalanced bad (differences between cells were max 0.02V). I suspect that cells can remain in balance at least 10-20 charge times with original charger. Maybe even more.... I'm going to figure this out. Pros for lipos: + Range is increased more than I had expected (lipos give lot of power until theyre almost empty) + I can accelerate as hard as i can and battery bars does not drop at all (no voltage drops because batteries can supply enough amps) + Batteries stays much more cooler than li-ions. Theyre not pushed in limits so they do not heat up and can last longer + This is weird one. I have only third speed alarm in use. At original battery it triggered when real speed was about 28kph. Now when lipo is charged more than ~60% last alarm comes at 30kph. I dont know why.. Negatives - No BMS board so i have to monitor cells. Not big problem..
  50. 1 point
    It's clear that there's a difference being thrown at 5, 15, or 30KmH. The higher the speed the faster your reaction time has to be, and the more kinetic energy you body has to absorb during the fall. The problem is the kinetic energy increases in a non-linear way with an increase in speed. Going from 10 to 15KmH seems like no big deal, just +50% right? Wrong, just take a look at the kinetic energy equation E = ½mv2 50% faster means +125% energy. 30KmH vs. 15KmH, means E +300%. E that you body has to absorb when you crash into something...sooner or later. The effect of rolling instead of just falling flat is to spread the absorption of the kinetic energy over a longer time, the friction actually slows you down (if you don’t hit a inert object on the way). But this alone is not going to save you travelling at high speeds, even if you have very fast reaction times. Falling is just one smal link in the safety chain. Buy a reliable brand, keep the EUC max charged, start driving slowly (if it feels different or somethings doesn't seem right check it out first), think twice before going faster (is it worh the risk?, man invented cars for a good reason), know how to take a fall (practice), be prepared at all times (knees bent,..), get off the wheel once in a while to avoid your feet and lower leggs going numb, and wear full protective gear: It’s a good idea to upgrade the protective gear depending on you speed, the helmet that keeps you head in one piece at 10KmH will probably struggle at 30KmH. E = ½mv2