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  2. I'm not worried what other people think. He was obviously looking at it from a point of view of what would be right for his situation, right now, and not mine. People do that sometimes. But I know that when I'm gliding around having an awesome time, he'll be the one who's getting laughed at, not me. At this point, I am of the opinion that the vast majority of Americans, at least, will be too lazy to learn how to do this.
  3. @Keith now my limitator is 20kmh, but I'm sure It can be upgraded to 25kmh. I could see it on another v5 during a meeting.. I don't know if he used an application , but I think it needs to map the Eprom
  4. Today
  5. Well, there are three places where the failure may be. 1) The connector in the cable compartment. To access it you need to remove the right side plexiglass I'm afraid. The connectors for the light are there. There are two small contacts leading to the back of the GT16, one is red, that is to the charging port, the other is white, and that is the light. The most probable cause is simply a disconnected cable, but it may be a broken crimping. If so you have the interesting options of getting a spare male/female pin, or breaking out the soldering iron and make do. To remove the plexi, the only alternative I've found is using something sharp, like a model knife. The glass is VERY easy to crack, but don't despair, some weave tape and glue can fix a simple crack. I used black duct-tape to put it back, mostly to make sure I didn't create another way in for moisture. It worked superbly. 2) A loose connector or cable on the board. You need to disconnect battery, then all the cables in both cable compartments, then unscrew the controller-box with its eight screws. Then very carefully remove the lid, the eight plastic locks are pretty easy to break. Some are easier than others, try and be careful. When the lid is off, you can inspect the cables sitting at the opposite end from the MOSFETs and see if any connector is loose or any cable doesn't sit well in its connector. 3) If worst comes to worst, the fault may be in the LED-assembly. Like in the previous, you need to dismount all cables and remove the controller box. Then you need to unscrew the last screws to the motor and loosen the screws keeping the two halves of the shell together. Get the wheel out, then unscrew the two halves of the shell altogether. Then you can access the LED/charging-port assembly. This is probably easier to do without breaking anything than alternative 2, but also the most complete dismantlement of the EUC So the easiest parts to break are the plexis and the locks for the controller box lid. The former is less of a problem than the latter. But if you break one of the locks, some loc-tite or epoxy can save the day. Also, there was some rubbery sealant putty of some kind or the other between lid and cooling plate on mine. When I get my spares, I plan to find some non-stick sealant to replace it with.
  6. Da un anno ho comprato un ks16b da 640wh, peso ruota 16-17 kg, ho 3000 km KS app tocco tranquillamente i 30 kmh ma non vado oltre, mai un problema finora (scongiuri) ed il trolley integrato è molto comodo, faccio giri max da 30-35km e mi avanza sempre un 20-25% in dinamica, peso 90 kg e sono 1.9 mt mi ritengo soddisfatto finora del prodotto sia come prestazioni che affidabilità. Dovessi comprare nuovo il ks16s ma non subito, se accantono la sicurezza il gt16 rockwheel come potenza/peso attira
  7. That's a good deal considering the condition and low mileage
  8. subbed you @Justina and @n2eus
  9. See the videos on Speedyfeet's website/YouTube channel. He specifically addresses the fact that Gotway is shipping boards with incompatible bullet connectors. Ian walks you through the entire process. You will obviously need to get additional hardware. I've opted to bypass the connectors and solder everything together. That is an option if you want to get back to riding quickly. Here's my soldering and wiring harness work:
  10. I can confirm the veracity of @Sven's information.
  11. I've had lots of falls including a recent rather bad one. The helmet mirror has survived them all. I like the hand mirror but I think the helmet mirror is superior because you have constant situational awareness. With the hand mirror you have or proactively position your hand to get the view you want. I can't believe you get 100% time coverage.
  12. Just returned from exploring my favorite place: Griffith Park. Totally newfound territory, I was able to get to the very peak of the mountains for a great vantage looking down at the Griffith Observatory (seen behind me in this picture that a tourist kindly took of me)
  13. Glad you like it and that @Cerbera was able to help you out. The author of WheelLog hails from England so that's why the default is metric.
  14. @roch maximum speed on the V5 and V5+ is 18km/h, that is why most people go for the V5F or V5F+ which has a maximum speed of 25km/h. To the best of my knowledge there is no magic app that will make any of those variants go any faster than I have stated above. Inmotion did promise a software update to increase the speed of V5F but I'm not aware that has ever happened either. The V5F and F+ are limited to 20km/h out of the box. The standard Inmotion app will allow that to be increased to 25km/h.
  15. ??? The Front on the KS18A/AY/S is where the batterie LED indicator is...so that you can see it while driving.....so the tire is correct, its just Philippe giving a ^%${ about what is front or back You know, on Kingsong wheels you can do that, without being afraid that some solder points or cable get loose or melt
  16. I ordered the part off of AliExpress. It was $8 for 10 and no shipping, cheaper than other sites but will take a couple of weeks to get in. It's always possible that something else could have fried in the process as well, but for $8 it's worth a try.
  17. Cerbera, Excellent. Thanks. I did not know that was there. (Noob to Android) I think I should give you either a green up arrow or a heart.
  18. Oh, I didn't realize those were custom. I thought they were an option from King Song! KS should definitely offer these!
  19. I think you can do that in the wheel log options can't you ? Swipe left side of main screen right to get those options... CBR
  20. Marty, you inspired me to put Wheellog on my phone and connect it to my Pebble to diplay info from the Gotway ACM. Really cool. Now, if I could get it to display in mi/h instead of km/h.
  21. Someone else did the very same thing and got his to work again on a Ninebot. Then again others have tried on different wheels and discovered other burnt out components preventing a simple fix. Let us know how your fix goes! I surprised myself that I remembered EUC Extreme posting this. That was quite some time ago.
  22. I hit some loose gravel taking a left turn from a pathway onto a dirt road. The lateral skid was unsettling, but I summoned my inner "Mini-EUC Extreme" and rode through it. It's just bad when you're not expecting it. Also the lurch that happens when you hit deep enough loose rocks is a bit alarming.
  23. Carissimo @FULspeed, grazie veramente di cuore. Sei stato preziosissimo e squisitissimo. Come dicevo ho ripreso da poco il V8 e quindi lo cambierò intorno a fine anno o inizio del prossimo. Quello che mi fa specie è vedere che tutti i marchi continuano a sfornare nuovi progetti sempre più veloci e con più autonomia mentre Inmotion si crogiola sugli allori del V8 è del V5. Farà la fine di Ninebot? Chi lo sa. Intanto beato tu, mio caro Fulspeed, che vivi in Francia che per i monoruotisti è il paese del bengodi. Grazie ancora per le notizie. Nel tempo magari mi permetterò di disturbarti ancora per qualche consiglio.
  24. I like those red accent pieces! That was a very well-done video. It shows how practical EUCs are, and fun at the same time.
  25. Hello, I bought an Inmotion v5+ about two months ago. Now It has already 500km. I'm writing here because I'd like to increase the speed of my wheel but I don't know what is the procedure. Please, someone can help me? I heared that exist an apk to do that, but I would not be able to figure out how it works.. Thank you
  26. Not an expert, but I think you should be able to use another mosfet, if you change them all and get something that has similar (or higher) Vds & Id, at least as low Rds(on) and same or lower gate charge (depending on the gate drive -circuitry, it could work with higher charge too if the gate drives can switch it on and off fast enough)? Looking at the STP100N8F6 specs: Vds: 80V Rds(on) max: 9 milliohms (0.009 ohms) Id: 100A Total gate charge (typical, max is not listed): 100nC A quick search on Digikey with as high or higher Vds, as low or lower Rds(on) etc. came up (just us an example) with TI's CSD19501KCS: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/texas-instruments/CSD19501KCS/296-37286-5-ND/4701488 Half the gate charge (max, lower for typical), lower input capacitance, same Vds & Id, 6.6 milliohms Rds(on) max with 10V gate drive. This was just at a quick glance, with those search parameters (and TO-220 -casing), it gave me about 30+ options. But, like said, I'm not an expert, so there might be something I'm overlooking, and things I don't know (like, if the original gate driver is "matched" to 100nC gate charge, can the gate start ringing if driving a lower charge gate with high current?).
  27. Actually that has potential to be a very cool mod! Someone should definitely try it, maybe with LED for light source? The entire shell wouldn't need to be transparent. It could be a window like with PCs.
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