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If the fuse blows when the battery would have survived (or rather the BMS not switched it off?), that's an extra faceplant.
Any hardware protection safety measure that does not include the wheel warning you (beeps, tiltback) means extra danger (also from the possibility of failure of that part on its own).
So it has to be done in software. Please, dear manufacturers!
This is silly. Without the fuse the battery is destroyed and you face plant. At least with the fuse you still have a working battery after the face plant.
So incorporating a fuse does not cause a face plant in the sense that you wrote this comment.
You are aware that your beloved KingSong 18S has a fuse?
Glad your timing belt job went well.
I hate you, but I have to admit that I wish I had KingSong axles (now that they don't snap). This one is a real head-scratcher; does KingSong have a patent that prevents Gotway from using the their approach
Up to 20% range loss going from >25°C to <5°C on my 1300Wh ACM. Shocking. And not even below 0°C yet. Might be even worse with smaller batteries?
Also, ambient temperature =/= battery temperature.
The batteries themselves going below 0 while in use might not be soo good. Unqualified guess
Also, someone recently warned about the gyro sensor failung due to cold after storing the wheel in a garage. Might have been @LanghamP?
I guess the answer is, always store the wheel at room temp and make sure it can't cool down when riding in low temps (on breaks etc).
edit: oh wow holy thread necromancy
Never heard of any actually faked wheels.
What might happen is sketchy sellers mislabel cheap generic wheels with "Tesla" (or just do scammy SEO) in the hope that someone acidentally buys one.
Buy from a reputable seller. Rockwheel Store, Fashion and Travalling (I believe they are still good) are known sellers.
What's the Russian price (ecodrift maybe)? Higher?
I forgot the number of parallel packs matters, too (ACM has 6, vs. the 4 of the GT16), not just the "Don't fry my wires, bro!" thing. 35A is a good number then, and I don't think it makes sense to be that precise technically so that a few A +/- are important. Batteries are chemical (= not perfectly predictable) after all, the size vs. duration of a spike is more or less a question of definition, etc.
Follow your heart. In doubt, your intuition is right.
The 14D is clearly better suited for more robust commuting (aka some days you're just tired and distracted and may just want to get to your destination without having to eagle-eye any small potential bump) and longer distances. But if for some reason you prefer the mten3, get it! You can make anything work. And if you plan to stay below ~20km/h (run off speed) the mten3's small tire won't be such a big problem with unexpected bumps at these speeds (I certainly wouldn't want to hit a bump at 30km/h with it! Or go that fast at all...).
An mten3 is also a great excuse to get a second wheel (16 or 18) sooner, than a 14 incher might be, which is much closer to these. Plan for the future, too
Weight is 10kg for mten3 vs ~12.5kg for the 14D, so it's not that big of a difference.
Both wheels are fantastic and you'll love whatever one you get.
Actually it may be slightly higher than 35A. I got a spike with a tilt-back today going slightly uphill in a headwind at about 22-25mph. Checking the log in wheellog I read the spike at about 35A, but it might have been 36 or even 37A, as I read it while riding. It is pretty consistent with other overpower tilt-backs I've had, it tilts around that number, keeping a few amps in reserve for when you really need it. It is also pretty consistent with an 80% power tilt-back, if you presume the max continuous amperage is 10-11A per pack for the Sanyo's.