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Thanks for the video. I do see that inner fitment rim and see what you mean. Is there any play between the rim and the outer hub? If not then maybe the magnets/stator facings are laterally skewed slightly resulting in the friction contact previously. Interesting.
I think Banggood sold them a while ago. They had modular battery packs that were easily removable. It was another one of the myriad of generic wheels produced. TJCooper had some battery issues causing cutoffs early on while learning to ride likely due to some inferior cells in the pack..
Making a msuper V3 (or ACM) sales video with the hill climbing abilities would be downright criminal at least if you don't mention the restrictions.
The GW wheels can comfortably do 20% or more inclines, but after a few minutes (depending on the actually produced current) the wire insulation melts because the wires get too hot. And the wheel won't warn you, just short and cut out on you. So these streets would be fine (they're not that long, after all), but nobody should get the impression that longer steep inclines are a good idea - they certainly are the guaranteed opposite of a good idea if you don't make enough preemptive breaks to allow the wiring to cool down.
Just saying I know you don't plan to make an msuper sales video, but tbh every video of ACM/msuper V3 on >10% inclines should come with that warning.
WoW 25 km is nothing if you weigh 65kg. I have a V8, I can ride it for 24km BUT I weigh 95kg and I ride quite aggressively, carving, ie lots of breaking and accelerations and I have over a 1000km already on it. I would suggest get another unit, your battery is not normal.
I also don't get the tire scrape and I've ridden it in the rain 2-3 times without any issues. Fight it. It's a great wheel but yours doesn't sound normal. Good luck! TESLA, please make an EUC!
I tried to use the shims but found them pretty useless. Even when using them the cover realigned the axle during tightening of the screws- I assume this by the sounds it made.The covers are not aligned by the screws but by the rim that goes around the circumference of the cover. It only goes in the right positions when pressed to the outer hub so that's why it seems that it is the screws that align it but they are there really just to keep it all pressed together. So the bigger screw holes allow only for a angle shift which should not affect the axle at all. I tried to take a little video of what I mean but I'm not sure that you can see it. Basically I try to demonstrate that the cover stays in one position even without any screws at all.
Glad it worked out for you and all is working again.
Have to say i found IPS pretty helpful, when they were talking to me, but like you there were times when a few days went by with no response from them. I don't know how many staff they have and obviously they have recently been developing the new wheel.
When i had the initial problem they could not have been more helpful in guiding me through getting it all apart and testing the various parts, sending results back and forth etc. They had a lot of patience with all my daft questions...
Glad to hear that you got it working. Just curious, do you use shims in between the metal facings and magnet when mounting the motor covers, or do you rely on the screws to move the stator housing into proper position? I'm just wondering if the cause was misalignment during cover install or an actual magnet face to stator face lateral misalignment that necessitates a certain hub and stator arrangement.
If the bolt holes in the cover are larger than the bolts, some alignment play could occur during reassembly. Maybe regular use of shims (eg. Playing cards) is a good idea considering how small the airgap is.